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Japan, first half of September 2024

We had been mulling over Japan for years. Our daughter and her young family are currently living in Asia so we planned to vacation together in Japan. We traveled with an almost-two year old and a four year old. The idea was: good infrastructure, lots to see and do, easy public transportation. Enjoying time together prioritized over a full itinerary. All of that was true.

But beyond the basics I didn’t know much about Japan. I found “Lonely Planet Experience Japan” a great starting point to understand places and experiences to consider. It organizes the best activities by region and helps turn a passive itinerary into a more engaged one. I like to take a deep dive into the history and culture of a country before traveling there. It adds so much to the experience! I highly recommend the podcast ‘Sightseeing Japan”, which covers history, culture, and travel tips all in depth. https://www.sightseeingjapanpodcast.com/ It’s an amazing resource and my drive-time listen for months.

We chose first half of September due to work schedules and other events. Just before our trip in the econd half of August Japan went on high alert due to the estimated higher risk of a major earthquake on its east coast, and also had high rainfall and flooding that temporarily closed the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya. There was also a conga lie of typhoons blowing into Asia from the Pacific. We experienced temperatures and humidity at Tokyo Disney that were so high that Disney repeatedly interrupted the theming to announce that due to extreme heat please rest, seek shade if needed and stay hydrated. Late September or early October are probably a better choice.

My husband and I flew JAL from Dallas to Haneda, reading that JAL has one of the best premium economies of any airline. For various reasons we find the extra room in premium economy helps us arrive in better shape so we sometimes splurge. We thought the seats were pretty narrow and the unique seat extension not that helpful. Despite the 12 hour time difference we were in really good shape on landing and managed to get in several hours of sightseeing before going to bed at 20:00. JAL purchased new equipment for the route after we booked, and we found ourselves in very different seats than booked, in the two middle-most seats with a tall partition between us. It was almost like traveling solo. Fortunately JAL fixed this on the flight home but but there was no alternative on the flight out.

We traveled to Tokyo, Nikko, Takayama, and Kyoto.

Since there were six of us we booked Mimaru Suites in Tokyo. That gave us a seating area with couch, small kitchen, breakfast bar, two baths and washer/dryer. It was great to have a common area for all to relax together. The kids went to bed early and whoever was watching them for the evening didn’t have to go to bed too.

One of the outstanding activities in Tokyo that wowed all of us was Teamlab Borderless. This TeamLab is in the posh Rippongi Hills mall where we grabbed lunch afterwards at an over-the-top grocery/take-out that included carving stations. Rippongi is a beautiful area of modern high-rises.

Tokyo DisneySea is unique to Japan. It’s gigantic, the theming is noticeably good, and there is the added cultural layer of being in a park that is beloved in Tokyo. If you love Disney theme parks it’s really worth it. We day tripped from Tokyo Asakusa (about an hour one way) but it didn’t feel like an overly long day. There was a gigantic line to get into the park because a new area had just opened. There was no shade and it was unpleasantly hot.

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We took a Tokyo sightseeing taxi one evening to see more of the city without being on our feet. Pickup and drop-off was in front of our hotel. Ahead of time we negotiated what we’d like to see in the number of hours. We saw the lights and signage in Ginza and Akihabara, and Shijuku, and saw the King Kong statue and had conveyer belt sushi in the latter. Of just as much interest was talking with a Tokyo native about his life as a businessman (prior to driving the taxi), how his kids see their future, and how Tokyo has changed over time.

I don’t want to minimize the challenge of maneuvering train stations, and boarding and exiting trains with two strollers and two preschoolers but with four adults we created a routine that generally worked. Japanese train stations are frequently multi-level, extending stories underground in Tokyo. Sometimes elevators are in out of the way locations, so we collapsed strollers to carry them up and down flights of stairs. Well, the two-year-old got carried a lot too, but with four adults it was a manageable workout. Google Maps is a great help navigating the stations.

We took the Spacia X train from Tokyo Asakusa station to Nikko, which is about 2 hours away by train. We booked the ‘Cockpit Suite’ which was like sitting in a private jet and had a glass wall allowing a view of the train engineer at work. For 6 people it was a reasonable splurge to reserve the compartment space. One of the main sights in Nikko is a grouping of centuries old temples in a forest of cedars; so beautiful. Although Nikko is often a day trip from Tokyo we stayed for 3 days in nearby Kinugawa Onsen hotel. Our hotel had multiple hot and warm swimming and wading pools, some of which are suitable for kids. A gigantic buffet served both Western and Japanese food, allowing us to low-risk try things we’d never seen before. We were among only a few families of Westerners staying there; it felt like an authentic experience down to the yukatas and slippers worn to meals. We also visited nearby Edo Wonderland, which is like a Japanese Williamsburg and has experiential activities like ninja training, creating woodblock prints, a parade of costumed courtier and attendants, and an Edo-era magic show.

After Nikko we went on to Takayama, which is a ‘Little Kyoto’ in the Japanese Alps by Shinkansen and regional scenic trains. We planned to day trip to Kamikochi National Park to hike in the mountains, but unfortunately we found out late the day before that the buses giving the only access to the park don’t run if more than 40% rain is forecast. There was also a chance of hail so we were disappointed but OK. We loved Takayama, however. Known for its beef, sake made from mountain water, and authentic historic area it was enjoyable and relaxing. We lunched at a Michelin Guide soba restaurant with tons of character; incredibly good. Another fun spot is the privately owned Takayama Showa Museum which contains memorabilia from the 1920’s through 1980’s.

Kyoto was the don’t miss experience we expected it to be. I can see why some people spent an entire vacation there. We especially liked favorites Fushimi Inari , Kyomizu-dera and the silver temple. After Kyoto we took the Hello Kitty express train from Kyoto main station to Osaka KIX airport to fly out.

BTW I found this website really helpful with planning Nikko and Kyoto: https://nerdnomads.com/japan They have lots of great pictures and detailed walking routes.

I mostly used Rome2Rio and Google Maps in combination to figure out the best train schedule; both were occasionally wrong. I got a better deal for Kiwnugawa Onsen through Agoda. Since it’s an inclusive resort the savings were significant. Klook is spot on for buying most tickets and takes PayPal. A few times I had to resort to using a train company’s website if our train wasn’t available on Klook. The train company websites aren’t as user friendly.

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Language differences occasionally slowed us down. Most frequently it occurred either in taxis or at train stations, especially when exchanging train tickets. In the latter the ticket office staffer would use a tablet with a translation tool, and we’d pass the tablet back and forth. Somewhat slow but it worked. Google Translate was invaluable for translating signs and museum placards.

What stands out after being home for 3 months? The beauty of Japan. Friendly people who go out of their way to connect and help. How mentally invigorating it is to travel to a distinctly different place and culture. The care and tradition involved in growing and presenting food. Amazing fast trains. 7-11’s that have items I actually want to eat. Vending machines at point of need when you're parched or hungry. Japanese toilets - I want one!

Would I got back to Japan? Heck, I didn’t want to leave.

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Hi Lia,

I am so glad that you posted this.

I am thinking of going to Japan and then taking a cruise on Norwegian Spirit. I travel alone and I am a senior citizen plus meaning I am old.

Your trip report is very encouraging and inspiring.