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Italy Trip Report #3 - Positano

We are up bright and early in Rome and on our way to the Tiburtina train station, where we are much more relaxed about the whole train thing. We chose leaving from this train station and the train would arrive in Salerno in time for us to catch a good ferry ride to Positano.

For those of you trying to find a way from Rome to Positano from like April through mid October...this is the way to do it. We read about it on Trip Advisors. It takes 2 hours to get to Salerno, then you have to leave the station and walk about 1/4 mile to the ports...very easy, tons of people are going that way. We found our company, TravelMar, and purchased our tickets. The ferry ride over to Positano lasts 90 minutes and it is just stunning to see the Amalfi Coast that way. Plus, I'm scared to death of heights and driving on cliffs. I had to shut my eyes several times on the PCH in 2014. The coastline is much prettier from Salerno to Positano than from Sorrento to Positano. From Salerno, you see all the towns and houses along the way...from Sorrento no so much, almost totally just cliffs.

Everyone was so excited as we approached Positano, as it's incredibly picturesque. I first found out about in when Under the Tuscan Sun first came out and remember telling DH that I am going THERE in my lifetime! We decided to do Positano at the end of our trip, as we wanted to relax on the beach after busy days in Venice and Rome...which we are glad we did. We also lucked out in that the weather was very nice, and the only really hot days was one the last day of Rome, and then Positano. We didn't care that much, as we would be in bathing suits...plus it wasn't a heatwave...just 88 - 90 degrees. Well, it was hot when we arrived and we flagged down a porter as soon as we docked. They are right there to take your suitcases. There are no taxis at that level up to a certain level in Positano...you have to walk. There is NO way you are taking those suitcases, unless you have a lot of self-hatred. DH balked when I told him this before we left, saying he could carry his own suitcase...but I convinced him otherwise and he was glad. Of course, we are worried that we'll ever see them again...but they all arrived about 10 minutes after we got to our hotel.

It's a hike to the hotel..very nice walk through the little town and shops, but we were drenched when we got there and the hotel desk staff looked at us really weird..haha. My hair was drenched, I just looked ragged. We stayed at Hotel California, the "Under the Tuscan Sun" hotel, that was Marcello's apartment. Of course we took tons of pictures and I was teasing DH by yelling "Marcello, Marcello!" up toward the balcony, but he didn't come out. It's a nice clean hotel, decently price...awesome VIEW of the iconic Positano landscape. I found it quite sparsely decorated...would a picture have killed them...but again we don't spend a lot of time in the room. The common breakfast area outside was gorgeous. Unforunately I might not stay there again, we'll see. If I do, I'm taking my own blowdryer. That was was SO bad, I didn't blowdry my hair the whole time. I had to either put it in a ponytail or wear it up on my head. I know I'm vain, but I liked to do my hair in the evenings.

OKay, enough about my hair issues. Positano does not have a Piazza or places like that to sit. You are walking up and down the inclined hill, passing really cute shops and restaurants all the way. This is the only place I purchased anything for myself.

The first day we just put on our suits and we to the beach. It's so cool the way the European beach loungers and chairs are set up with waiters. We just loved that. DH had the best time swimming in the sea, he said it's different than the oceans at home. It was so cool seeing all the million dollar yachts anchored out there, too. We were in the playground of the rich and famous! I didn't like the pebble beach, though. It really hurts your feet.

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I did what I read to do...I took a very light weight pair of beach shoes and so did DH. He said that was a great idea we did that. We were able to just use those to walk back and forth to our hotel room, too. Our hotel was across the street from Le Sirenuse Hotel..the really expensive one. We couldn't get in for dinner, but after reading the prices were glad. Although the view is terrific, it's as terrific from other places too. So, right down the road, the hotel opened a new cocktail place with the same view. It's called Francos. It is so chic, and one of the few places you can go in and just order a cocktail...no meal. We went every evening before dinner. We had our picture taken with the view in the background and now that's my FB cover shot. We ate just up the street at Bar Bruno. They have an indoor restaurant that is small and quaint, but they have seating across the street up against the wall/fence overlooking the view. We decided to sit there, and it was gorgeous at night. Food was fantastic.

Day 2: We spent the morning shopping all the stores, truly enjoyed it. I almost had some sandals made...but they are mostly flat sandals. You see several of those stores. I normally don't wear mine that flat. I would have gone ahead and done it, but they cost about $150 EUros and I didn't think they were THAT cute for the price. If there had been some with a smaller wedge or heel, I might have. We then just went to the beach again, then went up to one of the beach restaurants...there are several, very convenient. Before we knew it the day was coming to a close, so we walked back up to the hotel to get ready for the evening.
Went to Franco's again, then make our way down to Chez Black...a happening touristy place on the beach..but with great views. On our way down we shopped. We were celebrating our 31st anniversary (belated 30th). DH typically gets me something nice on the milestone ones. I saw these Swarkowski (spelling) rings of different stones, designs and size. They were gorgous! They cost about 200 Euro, the ones I wanted. DH and the sales girls helped me choose. The one I have is BIG...only for night to make all my friends jealous. It is an aquamarine color with silver holding it all in...unfortunately I have to wait to summer to wear it.

So, we make our way to Chez Black and during cocktails, DH pulls out a small bag for me. I was really surprised, considering I thought my ring was my gift. He had snuck away and bought one of the really pretty Capri Watches with the pastel chips in the face. It was just gorgeous....and again I know have to wait until summer as the band is white leather.

Day 3: Cloudy and cooler, so decide to go to Capri. We took the fast ferry over. This is where I made a mistake. Since we weren't planning on doing this, I hadn't researched anything...so were just following our noses. We got there and took the little train up to Anacapri for a few hours. Stunning. We then decided to go back down and shop around there...not realized there really is nothing to do. So, we got there, found that out, so decided to do a boat tour to the grottos. We had missed the one just going, so decided to just head on back. Well, we waited almost an hour, then I realized that I had the times wrong. UGH...waited another hour, so just sat and had a drink by the boats. Really boring time. I didn't know anything about the island, hadn't planned out how to do it, so besides seeing Anacapri, it was a flop of a half day. It really is important to research and plan. Went back, shopped some more then got ready for our Franco's stop and dinner. AT this point I am JUST SICK of walking up that hill. 3 days of that was enough for me. I don't even remember where we had dinner that night.

Positano is MUCH nicer in the morning and evenings without daytrippers. Do yourself a favor and spend the night. We left the next morning for our last day to Naples.

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Loving your trip reports--don't 'hang back' on Naples.

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How sweet that even in addition to the lovely gift you picked out together, your DH had picked out a surprise for you as well!!

Sounds like truly a dream trip.