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Italy Trip #2 - Rome

I will try to be a little more compact with Rome! We were there 4 nights.

We arrived about noon on the Fast Train, Termini Station. As noted, we head for the official taxi line which was very easy to see. It cost us about 10 Euros and the trip was so much fun...the excitement and difference in being in Rome from Venice. I'm just giddy again. We arrived at our hotel, the Albergo Del Senato, next to the Pantheon. There is an official taxi stand right next to the Pantheon which is convenient. This is a beautiful upscale hotel, with a rooftop 360 degree bar. (We went up there every evening before dinner for a couple drinks. It was gorgeous and relaxing. As a matter of fact, we felt no need to dine at a rooftop restaurant after already spending 90 minutes each evening up there.) We unpacked, freshened up and went to explore. Of course, the first place we visited was the Pantheon, which is just unbelievable. Then we headed out to explore. Our favorite piazza is the Piazza Novana. I liked the size and all the restaurants around it, where each day we went over to sit and eat or have a drink and people watch. The Italian men and women are so chic...I'd almost say the men more. Love all the scarves they wear.

That first night we did the Travestere Twilight Tour. Wow, that neighbor is much more "happening" than I was envisioning. The tour lasted 4 hours, there were 8 of us. They take you to out of the way places to sample appetizers, drinks, we went to a restaurant and 3 floors beneath it was a jewish synagogue in 1 A.D. It is not their wine cellar. We spent about 15 minutes down there (very dark), hearing the history of where we were sitting, sampling the wines and appetizers. We ate street food, real gelato, a dessert store. We learned the history of the neighborhood. WE did get to sit down for about an hour at a restaurant and eat 3 types of pastas and any drinks we wanted. It was a fantastic way to start our trip. If we had been there longer, we definitely would have gone back to Travestere!! Highly recommend this tour, particularlu the Twilight one...so pretty at night.

Day 2: In the morning we walked to Campo de Fiori to see the Market..very enjoyable. Went to the Trevi Fountain, which still had scaffolding, but it was very visible. I was surprised at how small the Piazza is...in pictures it just looks huge. Went shopping along the Via del Polopo. I don't even remember where we had lunch....again we only went to ONE restaurant I had spent hours researching..haha. In the afternoon we went with "Walks of Italy VIP Collosuem underground tour/Palatine Hill/Forum". We did this in the afternoon. Our guide was Fernando, and he has his Phd in Archaelogy. Very passionate about his job, and makes you feel that you are the first tour he's ever given...doesn't seem bored at all. Loved this tour, recommend it. So many things to learn. We, in our modern age, think we are SO SMART. We have nothing compared to the brilliance of the Romans...when you see how they have managed to build something like this in 8 years...with no modern machinery and holding up for 2,000 years...it is simply astounding. The precision of the stones and how they were laid or squashed together to hold up the colloseum. Wow.

Day 3: In the morning we just walked around and then met a H.S. friend and her husband that I hadn't seen for 22 years. They travel around for his job, and currently are in Italy. We spent the afternoon with them at the Domus Romane. I was really looking forward to that, as it is so highly rated...but we were all a little disappointed. It took us a long time to find it and it wasn't exactly what I thought. I suppose if we were there for any extended period of time, I might feel differently, but with so many other attractions that Rome has to offer, I feel this was not a good way to spend our time. Continuing.,....

Posted by
524 posts

OMG..I can't shut up. OK...continuing.

We just had dinner that night outside at the Hotel Restaurant on the Pantheon. Loved people watching and walking around that area after dinner. Just one more day.....

Day 4: The day started VERY early as we went on the Walks of Italy " Pristine Sistine" WE had our taxi take us to the meeting place, which thankfully is a café! We were the first there at 6:30 a.m....and were able to sit and have expresso/cappacuino/pastries waiting for our group. It is located right across the street from the Vatican. I'm so glad we did this. You are in the Sistine Chapel an hour before the public..so not many people. Oh...all these tours have earplus, while the guide speaks....those were wonderful. There weren't guards in the chapel yet, so he was whispering things to us while we were in there! Before we entered, they give you pamplets and he tells you things to look for and stories about the chapel, so when you get in there, you have an idea of what you are looking at. It really made the difference to us.

The Vatican museums are amazing...take this tour...any tour with a guide. They give you SO MUCH information. It was a fast paced 4 hours and I was exhausted at the end, though. We had lunch at another restaurant I have not idea over off Via Polopo. It was very quaint, down one of the alleys and very good. It was across the alley from Hotel. I will get the name of the HOtel and let you know. After lunch, I had to go back to my hotel room and rest for a couple of hours, I was so tired. DH went to more shops, he has more energy than I. I found I really didn't buy clothing the way I thought I would. I find the clothing here just as pretty, and nothing seemed different or unique to me. I did buy gifts for my sons, though.

That evening after our normal rooftop aperitif, we had dinner at Al Fortunato...just down from the Pantheon. We had passed it by a couple times and it didn't seem as lively outside, I don't know, other places seemed better. But we didn't know where to go that night and it got such good rating on TA...then I read my RS book with we were trying to make up our mind and HE recommended it...and said to go inside. So, we went and barely were able to be seated outside (we always want to sit outside). The food was fantastic!!!! It was the best meal we had in Rome or Venice so far. So, one time I got up to go use the restroom and inside...it was the happening place. We made a mistake by sitting outside! Rick knew what he was talking about...so sit INSIDE if you go there. You are just around more people and it's just lively. Strolled around the Pantheon afterwards and took videos of a man singing beautiful opera. I loved that about the Pantheon..some really talented street performers. Oure time in Rome was finished...spent each day doing one tour and the rest of it meandering, discovering, shopping, eating, drinking...soaking in Rome! The way it should be done. So many, many things we didn't get to do...but we will next time. We are in LOVE with Rome!

Got up early the next morning to catch our Italo fast Train for Positano via Salerno....

I would like to add that I thought most people were dressed nicely. The weather was in the mid 80's, only one hot day there. Now...the majority of the tourists there in September fell into 2 groups. early 20-30.....no kids. Then jump to the 50+ like us. Not many teens or 30-49 year olds. Why, they were at home going to school, and their parents are home too. So, it was like you had honeymooners ours. Lots of skirts and dresses on women. I'm glad I spent time putting together my wardrobe. What I didn't wear but one night were my high heel wedges....I felt out of place. Perhaps if we were in a group or going to more high end restaurants I wouldn't have. My sandals I spent months on were great...not one blister.

Posted by
11613 posts

Can't wait for the Positano installment...

Posted by
681 posts

Loved hearing your adventures. I felt the same way about clothing all over Europe. I have been to Paris, London, Prague and all points in between and noticed that in the summer it's all about summer flowing dresses. You can pick out Americans by their short shorts, jeans and walking shoes.

Posted by
1444 posts

Nice write up & thanks for the info on the Travestere Twilight Tour. I am working on my friends 25th Wedding Anniversary trip to Rome, Venice & Paris in Oct 2016. Just added the twilight tour on the list of things for them to do.

Posted by
524 posts

Thanks everyone! Glad you are using the Travestere Twilight tour for your friends. It definitely was one of the top 5 things I did. You need to book early, though. A year in advance isn't too early....I did. You can always cancel, but there are limited slots. It's best to go your first evening or two....because if you have time you will want to go back.

Posted by
10210 posts

That Trastevere Twilight Tour sounds fantastic, as does the Vatican early tour. You are so sweet to have ordered coffee and pastries for your tour companions - whata lovely gesture. I can't imagine as they arrived at the café and saw that you had done that.

Sounds like your hotel was really wonderful too. The daily evening aperitif on the rooftop sounds fantastic!

Lulu, your trip reports show the value of good research. You were able to pack so much into the time that you had because of all the research and thought you had done ahead of time. I also love your ability to "let go" of that hard-earned research when necessary (i.e. restaurants when you're not there at the time you're hungry or whatever).

Now to read your Amalfi Coast installment!

Posted by
141 posts

We did the same Twilight Tour for my 50th birthday! We are going back there this summer and will bring our kids along this time. We loved it as well, obviously. Was your tour leader a gal from Boston by chance? :)
Thank you for the note about visiting the Sistine Chapel before it opened. I was considering not taking them there until I read your trip report.

Posted by
630 posts

Lulu, first I wanted to thank you for taking the time to write this amazing trip report. I'm glad you had a nice time, and your adventure makes me excited to go to Italy. May I ask which Trastevere Twighlight Tour you used? Was it this Twilight Trastevere Food Tour?

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks for the informative report - especially the advise on packing/fashion. I am in the process of looking for a good pair of sandals and am curious what brand you decided on? Big decision! :)