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Istanbul, another Trip Report

Istanbul has been very popular, however here is another TR:
Just a side note. My husband worked with a Turkish man for over 20 years and he retired here. He was our guide and helped us with getting around. But if you have used buses, metro in other cities, you will figure it out. We did when we were alone.

Flight We travelled from Zagreb and flew on Turkish Airlines. The flight was less then 2 hours. Yet, they served us lunch, both times. And I have to say, really loud, it was the best food I have ever been served on a plane. Both times. I mean really good, more than just edible. The seat was very roomy. Also, they weighed and checked our carry on bags. 8 kilos is their limit and they stuck to it. We had to check the bag I wanted to carry on but it was 9.3K. Our other bags had already gone through so I couldn't fiddle around with the weight. They did not charge us for the extra checked bag.

Hotel We stayed at 2 different Hiltons for 2 different perspectives. Also, we used an employee discount and points.
DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul Old Town This was a great location. An easy 10 minute walk to the Grand Bazaar but far enough away from the major sights and crowds. We were on the same avenue as the Tram, which we could hop on. This street is also closed to traffic. The room was a nice size, breakfast was great, but the restaurant for dinner was just so-so and very expensive.
Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus The first Hilton built in the city, 1955. They were just finishing up major renovations. They have a huge swimming pool, tennis courts, etc. and an outside area for breakfast. Views were amazing. But it was too cool to go swimming. Large room, white glove service, delicious breakfast and restaurant for dinner. In fact, there were 2 restaurants for breakfast, one having a more extensive menu. We ate at both. This is also a great choice if you have a car.
I would be interested to know where Rick's groups stay in the city just for comparison.

Transport from the hotel We ordered a pickup through Booking.com. The airport is huge, really big. They sent us a text, with pictures, where to go and where to exit. Upon exiting you will see many posterboards with taxi names and many gentlemen there helping. Just show them your text and they will direct you where to wait. You, and others are then told to follow a man to the parking elevator. When you get out another person is there to direct you to your taxi. Believe me, it is a well oiled machine. They have it down pat. We prepaid through booking.com and just tipped the driver.

Transportation in Istanbul We did get the IstanbulKart. They machines do have a link to English. It was a little confusing but we figured it out. Some machines will have children or men there to help you, for a tip. You decide. We used the card on the Tram, Bus, Ferry, Funicular, Cable Car, Metro, and Train. Yes, we hit every mode of transportation that was offered. But, you can also tap and pay with your CC. you save about 35 cents or less per ride.

Money We had a few hundred euro with us as we had traveled from Croatia, and some dollars. We did take money out of the ATM. They are all bank affiliated and charged a 10% fee. Interestingly, you could take out $$. We did use the euro and the Turkish Lira, as well as credit cards. We didn't use the $$.

Sights
Topkapi Palace For us, this was the highlight. We did take a tour with Walks in Europe. It was worth the extra price, about $100. We were a group of 12. We did check the cruise schedule to go on a day when no ships were in. We figured it would cut down on the crowds. We booked the 1:30 tour (3 hours) and afterwards wished we had taken the 9:30 one cause there is so much to see in this complex. We went to the Sultan's apartments, but spent most of the time in the Harem. You could have lunch then visit the other places we missed. You can easily spend an entire day here.

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Mosques
Hagia Sophia - We purchased our tickets for the next day one our way out from the Palace. You can only purchase for the next day, We went on a Thursday, wanting to avoiding mosques on Fridays. As everyone says, it is very impressive. The mosaics are beautiful and there are many to see. their audio guide is QR codes all around the mosque, but the WIFI was very spotty. You also need your own earbuds.
Blue Mosque Not too crowded, and of course beautiful inside. We didn't spend too much time here because we were then headed to the
Chora Church/Mosque We followed Rick's instructions and found our way amazingly. This mosque is very small but jammed packed with Mosaics and charm. Our friend came with us and he said he did not know about this mosque. He was going to visit again with his wife. Anyway, they have a nice cafe just outside where we sat and enjoyed the warm day.
Suleyman the Magnificent Mosque This was just as impressive as the other mosques, minus the mosaics. There was English signage. I have a habit of taking pictures of the explanations so I can read them at my leisure and reread if needed.

Museums We visited both of these museums on the same day as they are close to one another.
Museum of Turkish & Islamic Art** It was okay. No audio guide but signage was in English. One part we enjoyed was the large terrace overlooking the Hippodrome. They have a small cafe and we enjoyed an ice cream and drink here. This museum was originally a palace.
Archeological Museum** We walked right in, no line. They are doing extensive renovations but mostly to the outside areas. We got the audio guide but it was the strangest thing. They give you a QR code paper with instructions and new earbuds in a box. After about 10 minutes and working with a couple from England, we figured it out but used our own earbuds. They problem is this museum uses up a lot of your data. Each # has to be downloaded. Luckily we had a power stick with us. This museum is a highlight. It is a wow. We spent about 3 hours here. They also have a small cafe in their garden.
Naval Museum Since my husband was in the Navy and for a few years a Merchant Marine, we always seek out these museums. This one was very well done. It was laid out very nicely, starting with historic Caiques (their type of boats), all the way up to their modern navy of today. They also had a small exhibition about the evolution of scuba diving. This museum is on the New District Side, near the
Dolmacahce Palace Wow, this palace was built in 1843 to complete with other European monarchs. And boy, whoever designed it knew how to compete. It is massive, enormous, large, I can't think of a better word. Their audio guide was the best. But you are going to do a lot of walking here. It is right on the water with lovely views. If you have time, visit. But don't feel you missed something if you can't.

Miscellaneous
We took the ferry over to Asia and walked along the water and took the ferry back.
We walked over the Galata Bridge and passed by all the fish restaurants. We didn't stop to eat though.
We strolled down Istikal Street in Taksim a few times. We sat at a cafe, next to the Galata Tower, and had tea with friends We did not climb up to the top.
We did go shopping at both the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market. They were slightly more pushy at the Spice Market. The Grand Bazaar is a massive complex or streets selling anything you need or didn't know you needed. The most abundant item was gold. Just like Rick mentions, they do not trust banks or the falling value of the TLira. I did purchase a small charm for my bracelet, but that was all my husband allowed. I know, I have my own money but I really didn't need more jewelry. What I was tempted by was the 1 gram and 5 gram ingots. I know down the road I will be sorry I didn't purchase a few.

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We went to the Rhythm of the Dance show through Hodjapasha on CWSocial's recommendation. It was a fun evening of lively music and dance. Not too long, just over 1 hour. We did need our GPS on the phone to find the place. If you go, just be aware they do assign seats. They will give you your seat number on the second floor after you sign in.
We only saw one sign for a laundromat, and I couldn't tell you where it was. I looked in Rick's guidebook and he doesn't even have it listed.
If you take the Mamarary train (not the metro) be aware it is just as far down as the London tube. About 3, maybe 4 escalators. Also, the funicular is down in the metro station. Our GPS kept saying "you are here" and we finally figured out it was below us. We had to enter the metro station to find it.

Catholic Churches We came across 2 churches along Istiklal Street, St. Anthony of Padua and Santa Maria Draperis. Both had masses in English.

Shopping** I can 100% tell you no one in Istanbul is shopping on the internet. There are literally thousands of stores, everywhere, selling everything. What was interesting was that most stores were grouped together by items. For example. On the bus to the Chora Church we saw blocks and blocks filled with stores selling wedding dresses. I mean, wedding dresses as far as the eye could see. We walked down some streets, and every store had children's clothing. same thing with hardware stores. We only saw 4 chain stores - Zara, Sephora, Gap, and US Polo on Istiklal Street. And we only saw just 1 of each store. There is also BKing, McD, and Starbucks, but that is expected. And many stores had nice quality items. No jeans with holes, no skimpy shirts, very modest pieces. Except that my suitcase was already too full, I would have done some shopping. Also, many stores had signs in Russian. People told us they come here just to shop.
Forget about finding decaffeinated coffee. Only the Hilton Biospheres had it, not the DoubleTree. And we found only one hidden cafe in the Spice Market that served it. If, like my husband, you cannot drink caffeine, bring some with you. As a side note, we did not think to check in Starbucks because we don't ever go in one. Could have been there. Maybe you might want to check.

Food The Turkish food is very similar to other countries, like Croatia, but they add some additional spices. Sometimes good, sometimes not. For example, they put something in the humus I didn't particularly like. We didn't see too many other types of food (such as Italian). We usually ate a soup and shared a mixed grill plate. Their lamb was the best for us. Besides the sweets everyone knows about, they had rice pudding (sutlac) on almost every menu and it was delish. I had to limit myself to one serving a day.
We did enjoy the Turkish Tea also. They don't over brew it so for us no sugar or milk was necessary.

Weather We were so fortunate. We had two nights of rain, but we were already in our hotel. The days were sunny, around 65-70 degrees and just perfect for strolling. Before we arrived, they kept predicting rain, but it never came.

Oh, and I just remembered, at the airport, leaving, you go through security 2X. Once when you first enter with your suitcases, and again after you checked your bags.

We did stay for 11 days, leaving on the 12 day. One day we just walked around the Topkapi Gardens (you can enter 2 different ways) and had tea at the little cafe and people watched. We had the extra time. Well, I think that is all I wanted to say, hope this wasn't too long a report. If anyone has any specific questions, please just ask.

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4411 posts

Excellent report. I enjoyed reading your experience of Istanbul. It’s very nice for you to have so much time there. I really enjoyed the city. I remember a lot of whirling dervish ads. The young adult and I played punch whirling dervish (as opposed to punch buggy) whenever one of those ads was seen.

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Thanks for writing this up! As I was reading, I was thinking you saw a lot - but staying 11 days explained it. That is how I would like to do it. I have yet to get to Istanbul, but want to!

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997 posts

Excellent report, Barbara. Turkey is alluring to me, but I have an unusual (for me) feeling of intimidation. I think it’s a combination of language — I like it when I can function, at least superficially, in the host language. Crowds, chaos and confusion are not my friends as I age. Your report offers hope and a reconsideration of Istanbul as a destination in the next few years. Thanks.

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I’ll add my thoughts on the language and a note about the trams.

Language. People who work in restaurants, shops, and at the tourist sites spoke English fine. At the hotel, the front office staff spoke English but not the back staff, such as housekeeping. No English on the buses. We only took 3 taxis - to and from the airport and when changing hotels. They all spoke some English. We really did not encounter any problems. We did have our friend with us who obviously spoke Turkish, but we never felt frustrated about getting a question answered in English.

Trams just a quick update about the trams. They have a unique system where you tap your card and go through a turnstyle to a waiting area. Some stations had an employee checking. But you don’t need to tap on or off the actual tram. So, there us no way you could not pay. This is such a better system.

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3524 posts

Thank you for sharing your report, made me wish I had spent more time in Istanbul (I had 4 days, two on own and two with RS tour).

I would be interested to know where Rick's groups stay in the city
just for comparison.

my tour stayed at Galata's Hotel in Karakoy. Others have stayed at the Haze Hotel in same area. Some tours stay in Sultanahmet, sometimes at the Acra Hotel or the Demiray. I know they use other hotels too, these are just the four I can remember :)

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3844 posts

Thanks for this! Excellent report! We also have 11 days in Istanbul this spring, doing the Rick Steves city tour with time on our own. Can’t wait!

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855 posts

Great trip report, Barbara! Istanbul keeps creeping up higher on my travel list. Thank you for the inspiration!