I previously posted a question about things to do on Skye without a car.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/scotland/skye-without-a-car
I thought I would follow up, since I just left Skye this morning after four nights staying in Portree.
I stayed at the Viewfield House (https://viewfieldhouse.com/). It was absolutely lovely. It's a 10-15 minute walk to the town centre, so not right in the midst of things. If you want to be in the heart of Portree, it wouldn't be a good option, but I definitely recommend it.
I made dinner reservations for each of the four nights I was there. It's a good thing. If you don't have reservations, you're doing takeout or buying groceries from the Coop.
The first day I took the 56 bus from Portree to Dunvegan Castle. Spent about 3 hours there and took the bus back. Easy as pie. I was the only passenger on the bus both ways. It drops you off right in the castle parking lot and picks you up in the same place. Easy to get the schedule online (https://www.stagecoachbus.com/routes/north-scotland/56/portree-square-glendale/xiao056.o). The castle was interesting and the gardens were very nice.
The second day I booked a tour with Seaflower (http://seaflowerskye.com/our-trips/). If you walk down the harbor in Portree you'll find a board that has their entire schedule for the week, and you can book on their website. I did their Rona with Seafood Lunch trip. The lunch was fabulous, and the Isle of Rona is beautiful. The hiking is not too difficult but has some steep hills, but there are options for easier walks too.
The third day I did the Skyebus Full Day Tour with Real Scottish Journeys (https://www.realscottishjourneys.com/tour_real_skye.html). This was one of the best tours of this type I've ever done. True, we didn't go to "off the beaten path" places, but the places we visited were all definitely worth seeing, and Bill's narration (he told stories, talked about the history and the geology and the plants and animals, and in between he played music from Skye musicians) was fascinating and fun.
I highly recommend everything I did on Skye (except one of the restaurants I went to). The three restaurants I do recommend are Antlers, Scorrybreac, and Chargrill (at Marmalade Hotel).
Now I'm in Inverness. I did a walking tour this afternoon that wasn't great. The guide was knowledgeable about history, but we didn't actually see much of anything interesting. Actually, I think that may be because there really isn't a lot to see in Inverness. But I read Rick's walking tour in his guidebook and realized that would have been much better, because he actually shares more details about what your seeing. I will try to find time to go back and do his tour, even though it overlaps with the one I did, just to pay attention to some of the things he points out.