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Ireland and Rome, 2017

Part 1: Ireland

Our trip started off in with 10 days in Ireland at the end of June for my sister-in-law’s wedding. My husband and I did almost all the trip planning, as my in-laws traveled with us, along with our two year old son. We flew from Seattle to London on Virgin Atlantic, and then flew to Dublin on Aer Lingus. I was really impressed with Virgin Atlantic. The plane was comfortable, the meals were decent, and the crew was fantastic. Though I was nervous about flying for that long with a two year old, he did a great job and exceeded my expectations. I don't want to get too wordy about flying with a toddler, but feel free to ask if anyone has questions!

We arrived in Dublin in the late afternoon and picked up our rental car at the airport. We had rented a minivan which was perfect for our group of 5. My husband did all the driving, and he maneuvered us into Dublin and we found our Airbnb. It was very warm when we arrived in Dublin, around 80 degrees. After dinner at a pub and a few pints of Guinness, we all crashed early as we all got very little sleep on the flight.

The next morning we drove across Ireland to Doolin, where we would stay for the wedding. We spent 3 nights in Doolin and the wedding was on the Cliffs of Moher, with the reception in Kilfenora. The wedding was stunning and the weather was mild and overcast, which was a relief! Most of our time in Doolin was spent on wedding festivities, but we enjoyed the beautiful area and made it out to a night of live music at one of the pubs (thanks to my in-laws for babysitting!).

After Doolin we drove to Dingle (via the route with the ferry) for 3 nights, which I absolutely loved. We all did the Slea Head drive using the guided tour in the RS Ireland book, went to the playground daily (fantastic), visited the Oceanworld aquarium (especially fun for the 2 year old) and checked out a few pubs. Dick Mack’s was quite the raucous place, but my favorite was O’Sullivan’s Court House pub due the relaxed vibe and great music. After Dingle we started to make our way back to Dublin, with a one night stopover near Kilkenny. We spent a night at the Lawcus Farm Guesthouse, and my only regret is that we didn’t stay there for two nights (or longer). It was by far my favorite place we stayed (the rest were Airbnbs). The farm is beautiful, the animals were a hit with our son, and Mark and Ann-Marie were two of the kindest, most generous people I have ever met. We enjoyed exploring the farm and hearing the history of the property. We also explored Kell’s Priory and visited the Kilkenny Castle before hitting the road back to Dublin to return the rental car.

We capped off our time in Ireland with two nights in Dublin. This was the rainiest part of our trip, but we enjoyed the Trinity College walking tour and Book of Kells, as well as catching up with an old friend who had just moved there.

Final thoughts on Ireland:
I had never been to Ireland, and truthfully I was not expecting to love it so much. It was more beautiful than I could have imagined, the people were incredibly friendly, and it was a great place to travel with a child. We had nice mild weather most of the time, with some days very warm, and some rainy days. Packing a variety of clothes is key. We stayed mostly in Airbnbs due to the size of our group, and they were fine. If we went back, I'd love to stay in small, family run hotels and BNBs. I liked Dublin, but truly loved exploring the smaller towns. Having a car worked really well for us, especially traveling with a child. I cannot wait to return someday!

After Ireland, my (brave and absolutely wonderful) in-laws flew home with our two year old son, and we flew to Rome and then London!

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Part 2: Rome

We flew Ryanair to Rome Ciampino, which was fine. The lines were long at the Dublin airport, even at 5:00 in the morning. Upon arriving in Rome, we took a shared taxi to our Airbnb. Our taxi driver sped, bypassed red lights via on-ramps, and passed many cars along the way. When our other passenger, an Italian, got out, he said “I am safe. Good luck. Ciao!” What a memorable welcome to the chaos of Rome!

Our Airbnb wasn’t too far from Piazza Navona, and fit the bill for the week. The location was great and it was clean and quiet, though nothing fancy. When we were in Rome five years ago, we did a lot of the typical tourist activities. This time, we spent a lot more time walking around, exploring neighborhoods, and generally enjoying the pace of Rome without rushing around.

We both agreed that a highlight was our Eating Italy food tour in Testaccio. Our guide, Nesim, was great and we really enjoyed learning more about a neighborhood that we had not spent much time in. We did our food tour early in the week so that we could come back to try a few places.

Other highlights included visiting the Pantheon, an early morning visit to St. Peter’s, the Borghese Gallery, and a trip to Ostia Antica. By the end of our week in Rome, it was 95 degrees so we went to the beach after Ostia and relaxed at the Belsito beach club. We also tried to explore more neighborhoods that we missed on our previous trip, including Trastevere and Testaccio. We usually averaged 7 to 8 miles of walking per day, with one day near 10 miles. Coming from Ireland, Rome felt very hot so we took many breaks for cold Peroni beers or gelato.
We also enjoyed meeting up with forum member Zoe at Cul de Sac—so nice to meet you! We enjoyed chatting about our travels and she also later warned us of an upcoming transportation strike.

We also took a daytrip to Orvieto, where we enjoyed the cathedral, exploring the town, and a delicious lunch of fresh pasta.

Food highlights of Rome:
- Emma, for pizza and the most delicious burrata (with tomatoes and olives) that I’ve ever had in my life. It was so good that we went back a second time.
- Suppli from iSuppli in Trastevere
- Ricotta di bufala with strawberry and balsamic gelato- Gelateria al Teatro
- Aperetivo at Freni e Frizioni in Trastevere
- Trying Italian microbrews, since Italy now has a great craft beer scene
- The aforementioned Testaccio food tour. Everything was wonderful, and I tried a few new foods: oxtail and tripe!
- My morning cappuccino and cornetto

It's hard to put into words how I feel about Rome. I am so glad that we were able to return for another week of exploring, great food, and taking in this beautiful city. On our last night, still full from dinner we had to make one more gelato stop and detour to Trevi Fountain to throw in our coins to ensure a return trip. Our next stop was two nights in London, which deserves its own post.

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Meg,
Loved your report, how delightful to attend a wedding in Ireland! And, Rome, one of my very favorite cities. I will keep the Eating in Italy tours in mind for my next visit.
In Sept., I will be in Ireland for the RS 8 Days Heart of Ireland tour and will be seeing the Cliffs of Moher and staying in Dingle for 3 nights. Then we head to London for 5 nights so I will look forward to your post on London.

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Thank you, jayhamps! My London post about Wimbledon is up now. Judy B, have the best time in Ireland! I wish we could have spent even more time in Doolin and Dingle. I did not expect to love Ireland so much, but it really is an incredible place.

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11613 posts

Thanks for the report, Meg. It was great to meet you! I'll be in London next week so I am going to read your report now.

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1155 posts

Anyone who doesn't love Ireland is wrong.

I'm only slightly kidding. ;)

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464 posts

Thank you, Zoe, Nancy, and celeste!