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In Which I Fall, Predictably, In Love With Paris

I returned this past Saturday from a wonderful trip, 6 nights in Paris and 6 in Budapest (separate post for that portion), marred only by some physical maladies: 2 weeks before I left I pulled a muscle in my shoulder blade area that also caused constant aggravating nerve pain all down my left arm, had some chiro work done and had pain patches + vicodin and muscle relaxer along just in case, tried to use only at night to get sleep. Flight over I just could not get comfortable, but arrived Monday morning in some semblance of good spirits and energy despite being achy. That lessened throughout my week in Paris, then I woke up that Saturday, last day there, with a sore throat that became a mid-level cold during the Budapest portion. I had my itinerary and stuck to it even though a few days it was hard to get up and going as early as I had planned, so late museum hours helped.

Happy feet, thanks to my Fly London boots and Fluevog oxfords and Wrightsocks--I found them to be the ones I wore consistently for very long days of walking, the dual-layer totally cushions against blisters or rubs. Smartwool with the padded arch area were also good.

High levels of security at all sites and museums, police and/or military, screening of all bags. I must say I didn't feel any differently in Paris than I have at the other cities I've visited, not at all anxious, and people generally seemed calm and pleasant as they went about their lives.

I must say I did not observe any pickpocketing or people that looked like they were casing on the metros or in crowds, though the petition girls came at me near the Eiffel tower asking if I spoke English, so I used my Hungarian and said "Nem eretam!" coupled with a stern look. I was not bothered otherwise.

Thank you to all the people here who helped me decide if I could do the Eiffel Tower and confirmed my questions re getting to Versailles. A couple of trip reports gave me ideas of interesting shops to visit as well--Le Bonheur des Dames for needlework and Deyrolle, near the D'Orsay, a most magnificent taxidermy/garden shop that has unusual animals on display--can't photograph, unfortunately, but I certainly enjoyed seeing them.

The first day was Whit Monday, and I was checked in, freshened up and on my way to the metro by noon. I chose to stay at the Legend on Rue de Rennes in the 6th, I'd read hundreds of reviews and found nothing negative + it suited my needs and it was indeed an excellent choice. The room was large, and on the 5th floor as requested, facing the street--huge floor to ceiling windows that opened on a little balcony, utterly delightful décor and very clean, excellent service and very helpful front desk. The street was lined with mainly upscale stores plus little bistros and bakeries, 5 minute walk in either direction to 2 metro lines.

I got my carnet of metro tickets and headed to the Pompidou, a bit crowded as it was a holiday weekend and not many museums were open. Bought my Museum Pass and spent a couple of hours surrounded by some of my favorite artists. At 4 I headed over to Notre Dame--major tourist crowd, went through the church and then walked the area, toured the Conciergerie. By then I was getting droopy so headed back to hotel and got a few things to eat in the room and crashed by 8 pm.

I had a ticket to the 2nd floor of the Eiffel tower at 10:30 am and it was a lovely, clear morning, crowds not quite in place as far as ticket lines or the general area. I was a tad nervous about the ascent but just held on and kept my head down and it was fine! The observation areas weren't yet crowded so I explored each vantage point and decided I felt good about the whole thing so bought a supplemental to the summit, very pleased with myself. Longer elevator ride this time, seemed to pause as it went through the girders but my eyes were closed, and I was not the only person who was a bit anxious.

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I explored the Trocadero before taking the metro to the Marmottan, lovely old house that I enjoyed as much as seeing the art, plus a special exhibit, L'art et L'Enfant, children in Impressionist art. Had lunch at a nearby bistro, then on to the Army Museum where I particularly liked the WWI and II exhibits--that's my area of interest. Then to the Rodin nearby, also in a lovely mansion where he lived and worked. I walked Rue de varennes back to my neighborhood and was done for the day.

Wednesday started with the D'Orsay, possibly my favorite of the museums--again, art by artists I love + a special exhibit of Henri Rousseau that was fabulous. The Art Nouveau wing was closed, sadly. After a snack I wandered a bit and found the Deyrolle taxidermy shop on Rue de Bac--totally bizarre and wonderful. On to the Cluny to see the Lady with Unicorn tapestries, mainly. On to the Marais where I became turned around with my map and relied on the street signs to guide me to the Picasso museum, seems I went in circles but this happens. Bit of a seedy area near the St Paul metro, just walked with a purpose, no map out--possibly why I went in circles! Picasso had quite a crowd around 4 pm, but very enjoyable. I headed back in the rain to visit the needlework shop le Bonheur des Dames on Rue Daumesnil-worth the trip, very unique designs.

Thursday I had planned to leave the hotel by 7-ish to make the trip to Versailles but was tired and achy so it was more like 10:30 when I arrived there. RER C was a very easy process, and part of the trip we were serenaded by an accordion and sax duo--I loved it, my fellow travelers, not so much. The busker's instrument of choice seems to be the accordion. I arrived at Versailles and it was cold and determinedly rainy (otherwise it'd been quite humid) and the throng of people was, as warned, overwhelmingly large and chaotic, plus damp and cranky. Toured the Palace, wandered the Gardens as I tried to decide if I wanted to stay or just get the hell out of there. I figured I'd come a very long way and truly wanted to see the Trianons and MA's estate more than anything else so I persevered. That's a looong walk, and I stopped for lunch at La Flotille by the Canal, where a pot of tea and their special omelette revived my spirits enough to convince me to continue on--so glad I did. The 2 Trianons and MA's estate were, for me, the best part of Versailles. Smaller and more personal, much less crowded, and at the Hamlet the house she lived in was being restored, but there are other things to see and I really liked walking the paths, gorgeous lilacs of every type blooming--definitely be sure to get a map of the estate unless you don't mind wandering aimlessly. By 3 I was ready to head back to Paris so exited at the side of the Farm and down a long road to another path that led to the Queen's Gate exit which was a long walk but avoided retracing steps and encountering the hordes of people at the Palace. I arrived back with time and energy to see L'Orangerie--the Waterlilies in their special rooms are stunning, but I much preferred the lower level exhibits. Explored Place de la Concorde and walked part of Champs Elysees.

Friday I headed first to Pere Lachaise, friends needed me to check on Jim Morrison and I needed to see Colette and Edith Piaf. Rick's walk was quite helpful. Then I spent the afternoon in Montmartre, took the funicular up but walked down near Bateau Lavoir. Yikes--way too many people at Sacre Couer so just observed and photographed and did Rick's walk + toured the Dali museum. Made use of the Louvre being open late and entered through Carrousel du Louvre, made a beeline for Mona and otherwise just viewed the French and Italian paintings and left--not my favorite art there, but certainly worth it to see the interior of the building.

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Saturday--last day in Paris and I wake up with a sore throat just as arm/shoulder are improving. Thanks to advice received here I decided to focus my flea market needs on Vanves, thought maybe St Ouen would be too much but if I hadn't found anything I might have braved it. Vanves was indeed the perfect flea market experience for me--exited at Port des Vanves and within a block there it was, stretched along a school/park for quite a ways and then around the bend a bit, very satisfying array of old funky stuff and no new crappy stuff. I spent about 1.5 hours there and ended up with some little santons, little figures used in crèches, a card of vintage buttons for the sweater I'm knitting, an old silver ring and a vintage 1900s wooden pocket watch holder, souvenir of Fontainebleu. Overall I loved seeing all the stuff on display and found the sellers easy to deal with and amenable to bargaining. I hit a craft market at the Bastille square but it didn't have much to offer, so I decided to just wander the Marais for the rest of the day. I had a good chat with a shop owner and she said the French are very grateful for any tourists still coming, that the numbers are way down. I visited the Carnavelet museum and really enjoyed it even though very little English translation and the Revolution wing was closed. Then I found a great pop-up shop with exactly the kind of clothes I like on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, Meg Serigraphie. 2 sweaters and a T came home with me. By 5 I was feeling decidedly sick and decided it was time to get back to the room and pack as my flight to Budapest left CDG at 7 am Sunday.

Overall I was utterly enchanted by Paris, found the people pleasant and helpful (except for one terse ticket window clerk), the city and metro easy to navigate, though the metro is quite exhausting when making transfers, up stairs and down stairs, walk a mile, etc. The sense of being surrounded by beautiful buildings, scenery and incredible history everywhere was the feeling that will stay with me. I made good use of the Museum Pass, visiting 11 and zeroing in on my favorite genres. 2 carnets of metro tickets, so when (not if!) I return I will consider a pass. I took a taxi from and to the airport, 55 euro each way was fine, though I can see how the metro & airport trains work I don't feel I needed or wanted to deal with the logistics. My high school French came back to me and using the pleasantries really did help, mostly I was happy to be able to understand signs. Asking people on the street "ou es la metro?" sometimes got a confusing reply, sometimes pointing that was really all I needed. And people really do have French poodles and walk around with baguettes, though I did not see anyone wearing a beret, just scarves--men and women alike, even when it was 80 degrees.

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10193 posts

Christa, it sounds like you had an absolutely wonderful trip. Sorry you had to face it with the shoulder/arm pain and the cold! Thanks for writing up your trip report, there's a lot of stuff in here that will be really helpful to people considering a trip to Paris.

It's funny that the other part of your trip was to Budapest, the other European city that feels like "home" to me. Can't wait to read about that.

And love your thread title!

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1321 posts

Christa, what a wonderful report!
I love Paris and am planning a return trip there this coming Fall.
We would love to have you join us for our Bay Area Travel Group meetings on the second Saturday of the month at Larkspur Landing at noon. (All of us regulars love Paris!)
Look for the official notice under Travel Meetings for more details. One of us will post it next week.
Hope to meet you in person!
SharYn

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7803 posts

Christa, thanks for sharing your wonderful time in Paris with us! Looking forward to reading about your Budapest vacation stop, also.

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10600 posts

Thank you for the detailed trip report. I fell in love with Paris 10 years ago and swore I would return some day. Fast forward...I will be going for the 5th time in November. I have averaged a week each trip.

I can attest to the Bay Area ladies love for Paris. You are always welcome at the Sacramento meetings too.

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Sharyn--I think I will definitely try to make it to the meetings, Larkspur is a bit of a drive from Alameda but a lovely one--I need to meet more people (in-person, that is!) who share my love of travel. My immediate circle of friends and acquaintances are of the "how can you travel to a foreign country all ALONE??! I could never do that!" camp.

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1976 posts

Christa, I loved your trip report! My first trip to Paris was awful and I swore I'd never return. In 2012 my sister convinced me to back because she'd wanted to go for a long time. I fell deeply, unexpectedly under Paris' spell, and even more so after last month, to the point where I'm fantasizing about winning the lottery and buying an apartment there!

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1441 posts

Nice report, I just got back myself this past Sunday. 8 nights, 1 overnight in Colmar. My first trip was in October 2014 & swore I would return within 2 years, and I did! Look forward to visit there again with possibly more trips out of the city, visiting the wine country & heading down towards the coast.

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2688 posts

Brushtim--I just read your report, sounds like a wonderful trip. I hit my absolute must-sees this time, saved plenty for another trip (or two or three...) and would venture to other cities--Lyon intrigues me, the Normandy area and Mont St Michel, off the top of my head.

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703 posts

Great trip report Christa. You had so much energy even being sick. Last May, my husband & I traveled to Rome, Venice & Paris (my favorite city) and got sick so I know it can be difficult but what else can you do but persevere? Especially loved the Versailles portion of the report. I love La Flotille, been there on two different trips and the food & service are excellent.

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La Flotille was a lovely surprise, and since the day was so dreary and rainy there was only me and 2 couples at around 1 pm, just the bit of peace and quiet and good food I needed to recharge my batteries. I'm definitely a trouper, usually full of energy and just glad I wasn't afflicted with anything worse.

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Paris is my favorite city in Europe. I have been there on 3 occasions and have never had a bad experience. I don't speak French, but learned the basic greeting phases and that was all I needed. I found the French to be surprisingly friendly and helpful. If you go with the right attitude and show respect, you will almost always be given respect.

I was wondering, have you ever been to Venice? It also is an amazing city unlike any other city in the world. If you haven't been, I think you will really enjoy it.

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Haven't been anywhere in Italy, but on your recommendation I will look into Venice, it's certainly always intrigued me. I expected to love Paris and thanks to my research I'm pleased with what I was able to see and do--saving plenty for a return!

I found that using the basic pleasantries went a long way, and a life-long interest in the language helped--I was surprised at how many words and phrases came to me seemingly out of the blue. I didn't need assistance very often, but always prefaced that with "Bonjour! Parlez-vous anglais?" and that set the tone for a useful exchange that always ended up in English.

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Venice is wonderful. We went last year to Rome, Venice & Paris. Of course, my favorite was Paris but we did love Venice too. It's just so beautiful with all the blue water and gondolas. Our hotel was just off the busy Rialto Bridge area so it was very quiet and our room had 3 windows overlooking the canal next to the building. St Marks Basilica is so beautiful too. The people are friendly, food is good, its just a nice place to spend a few relaxing days (no cars). Rome was very nice too with all the ruins plus its hard to beat the Vatican. Hope you go someday, you won't regret it.

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985 posts

Christa - This was a superb trip report and gives me much food for thought. I'm sorry about your shoulder and your illness but it sounds like you braved through the situations and had a jam packed adventure full of beautiful sights! Thank you for sharing your experiences with us.