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Iceland trip report March 2026

Back in November we received an email from Icelandair regarding a sale. Yes, those always suck us in! We looked right as the email came in, and were able to score the really cheap tickets, so booked it on the spot. Flying from SEA to KEF for less than $550 pp/rt. Then a few days later, Center Hotels announced a 40% off sale, so we scored our hotel rooms for $136 per night! How could we pass all of this up! Plus the dates were over my birthday, so even better:)

OnTuesday we drove to our daughters as she is our dog sitter. We stayed the night there and took a Lyft to SEA in the morning. The Icelandair desk opens right at 3 hours before the flight, not a minute earlier. As usual, they made everyone put their carryons into the sizer and weigh them, even Saga class. I knew our bags were good as they came in at 14# and 17#. Thankfully TSA Pre and Clear were both operating, so it didn't take long to get through security. We headed to the lounge and relaxed for a bit before heading to the gate.

The flight was one of the new Airbuses, so it was quite clean. The only drawback was it was really warm on the flight, whereas in the past that has never been an issue in all of our flights to/from Iceland.

Upon landing at KEF, we had to do the EES which is the entry/exit system now in place so we had to have our fingerprints taken when we showed our passports. It was super quick, no big deal.

Since we did not check bags, we were out of the airport in under 20 minutes from landing. We had pre booked a taxi with Hreyfill and the driver called us right as we were walking out of the terminal, so we didn't have to wait at all. It was a flat 22500 KR, so about $180.

We got dropped off at Center Hotel Plaza right in the heart of town. Our room was not quite ready, so we left our bags for maybe an hour and wandered. It was around 7:30am, so we went up Rainbow Road and had it pretty much to ourselves. We grabbed breakfast at Loki Cafe, right across from Hallgrinskirkja, the big Lutheran Church at the top of the hill. J had the lamb soup and I had smoked trout and cream cheese bagel and one of the best hot chocolates ever.

Our room was ready so we headed back and got settled in, and promptly headed right back out. We took a walk along the waterfront from the Sun Voyager to Harpa on back through the center of town. J wanted coffee, so we stopped at Braud for that and shared one of their famous cinnamon rolls.

This was our only day to do any shopping. A stop at the Handknitting Association store was a must, as usual. I found a sweater for our daughter as a thank you for dog sitting, and then I inquired about a vest sort of sweater. A few years ago I saw many local women wearing this style, but never saw them in any shops. The lady I asked knew what I wanted and said yes, they are not in the stores, but they could make one for me. So she did her measuring and we discussed colors/designs and it should arrive here in a couple of weeks. Along with a wool blanket that I have been eyeing for a few years and finally caved on buying;)

There is a really good store along Laugavegur called Taste of Iceland that has a wide array of Icelandic foods. Salts, chocolates, dried skyr, you name it. I found a lot of what I was looking for there and the owner was such a kind man.

We also went to the local grocery store, Bonus, to get drinks and snacks for the next few days as we had tours arranged.

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Easter is really big in Iceland and they take their chocolate Easter eggs seriously. So at Bonus we bought a variety of them for gifts, and one for us. They made it home in one piece:)

Normally we self drive in Iceland, but winter there is like nothing else you have experienced. So we had two itineraries, A and B. A was driving and B was tours. A day or two before we arrived, we could see weather was going to be an issue. Even though we know how to drive in snow/ice etc, we know better than to do this in Iceland as the winds are the biggest issue. They can and do blow cars off the road. So we cancelled plan A and stuck with tours.

Dinner that night was at Torfan, which just opened this past summer. We had a reservation there in August, but our flight from Greenland was delayed so we did not arrive in Iceland before the restaurant closed for the night. Dinner here was excellent! We shared the scallops and the double smoked lamb for starters, then J had the fish of the day, cod, and I had the lamb. We shared everything as we always do, and it was all just excellent!

Friday morning we had a tour with Nice Travel Iceland to the Silver Circle. We had been to a few places in this area, but there were some "new to us" places on this tour as well. We were picked up at bus top #1 since the buses can't go right in the heart of downtown. It was only about 2 blocks from our hotel, so super easy.

The tour started with Glanni Falls, which were mostly frozen and oh so pretty. After that, the tour did not go according to plan. On our way to the next stop, we came upon a very serious accident that had just happened. We were only 4 vehicles behind it. There was a big pickup truck (locals) and a Dacia Duster( visitors). The truck was down an small embankment, but the Duster was a mess. They had to cut the roof off the top to get the people out, and a helicopter was called to take the victims to a hospital. The road was closed for nearly 2 hours. We found out later that at least there were no fatalities, but one of the victims was a child, from the visitors. Without knowing how this happened, there are still some good takeaways from this. Make sure you have medical coverage, have full car rental insurance, know that weather can and does change on a dime, know your driving abilities, do not drive drowsy, and always use caution. I am not blaming anyone in this accident, but these are things that would help in case you are involved in one or to help avoid one. The roads were mostly clear, but a few patches of ice.

So with the 2 hour loss of time, our guide changed the itinerary and he did such a great job with it all things considered. During our wait along the closed road, wew got notice that our snowmobiling/ice cave tour for the next day was cancelled due to extreme weather. So on the fly we booked Hvammsvik Hot Springs instead.
Our next stop was Sturlureykirhorses horse farm. We got to pet and feed the horses and saw how they made rye bread on the ground using geothermal heat to cook it. We also learned about the Icelandic horses gaits, which we already knew, but it is always fun to watch them tolt.

The next stop was a very quick one at Barnafoss to get a very quick lunch. Soup and bread, and then we were on our way to make up for lost time. Note that the toilets here are still cash only.

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After that most of the people on the tour went to a cave, but we went to Husafell Canyon Baths. This was a highlight! This is private land and you have to go with a guide from the family that owns the land. We were picked up at the hotel, along with a father/daughter duo. The guide provided towels as well as walking sticks and crampons as you have to hike down into the crevice of the canyon and of course in the winter it is very icy to get down there. There are two small changing rooms there, which thankfully were heated as it was quite cold and extremely windy. We had snow, sleet, rain, hail, constant intense wind and even thunder. The guide told us local stories and then left us to enjoy the waters. The other two people, the daughter had taken her dad to Iceland for his 70th birthday and her 40th, and it was my birthday, so we all celebrated.

Upon returning to meet up with the rest of our tour group, we headed back to Barnafoss/Hraunfossar. The guide had ice cleats for us to use as this parking area was a complete sheet of ice, which we encountered when we stopped for lunch earlier. This time we were smart enough to take him up on the offer. We had been to these falls before, but in the summer, so it was fun to see them with the snow etc.

Next stop was Reykholt and we learned quite a bit about the history here and about Snorri Sturluson, who was one of the most powerful, influential, wealthiest men in Iceland.

After returning to Reykjavik, we headed to Saeta Svinid Gastropub for dinner. It was pretty much just across the road from our hotel. We have walked by it probably hundreds of times and never noticed it. It was full of locals, so we stood out a bit being visitors, but we were warmly welcomed. The food was really good. We shared the lamb and a seafood soup, both of which were far better than what you typically think of as gastropub food.

We wandered the waterfront some more, and stopped at the ice cream place next to our hotel. Which, ice cream is extremely popular in Iceland even in the winter.

In the morning we once again headed to bus stop #1 and caught the bus to Hvammsvik. It was with Reykjavik Excursions, so they take you in a small bus from town to the central bus terminal where you catch the correct bus for the tour you have booked.

Which, for all of our tours we were booked on, we opted for the small bus tours so we had a maximum of about 18 people.

Hvammsvik is about 45 minutes north of Reykjavik and has been our favorite hot springs from all of our trips, and we keep returning. Today was incredibly windy though, so it was pretty funny watching people try to hang their towels etc up and watching them fly away. They were warned by the staff, but many people just did not realize how intense the wind there can be. Hvammsvik sits right on the fjord, so the cold plunge is in the fjord. We have done that before, but it was just too cold today to do this. The swim up bar does have hot cocoa though, so that was especially nice. There is a good bistro there as well, so we shared a sandwich for lunch before we headed back to Reykjavik.

This day was my actual birthday, so the hot springs and then a nice dinner were a perfect celebration. Dinner was at Messinn, which we found about 4 years ago on a food tour and ever since it is always a must stop for us. We had the arctic char and the plokkfiskur, which even sharing, there is too much food for 2 people, but still worth getting the two dishes as they are so good. We had dessert here which was a chocolate cake with raspberries and whip cream and pistachio ice cream.

We were supposed to do an aurora tour tonight, but the weather was not conducive so it was cancelled. Instead we wandered Rainbow Road again and all along the waterfront until we spotted the aurora! It was not strong, but it was there! We stood at the Sun Voyager for about an hour just watching it.

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The next morning has us at bus stop #1 yet again, this time for a tour with Bus Travel Iceland to the Golden Circle and Laugaras Lagoon. We have been to the Golden Circle numerous times, but the lagoon was the draw for us. Just like the tour the other day, we had another excellent guide! The weather forecast was for about 7-9" of snow today, and it was like a snow globe all day long. The first stop was kerid crater, which for some reason, we just had never stopped there before. It was a quick stop and nice to see but probably better in the summer when you can safely walk down to the bottom.

After that, four of us got dropped off at Laugaras Lagoon while the others went to Fridheimir (the tomato farm). Laugaras opened this fall and I have been anxious to get there. It did not disappoint! It was very well planned out. It reminded us a lot of Forest Lagoon, but even more spacious. Plus there were underwater benches throughout, with built in tables so you had a place to set your drinks down. There were also large drink buckets set around so you could put your empty glasses in there vs leaving a mess. As you enter the lagoon, there is an upper area which is nice, or you can go down some stairs and through a waterfall to get to the lower/main area. You can also take the stairs to the side of that if you don't want to go under the waterfall.

The swim up bar had a lot of options and as I was debating on one drink, they even offered to let me try it.

The snow was falling steadily with big flakes, and virtually no wind today, so it felt very magical there.

Our next stop was Gullfoss, which we have been to several times before. J loves the lamb soup here and it has become a running joke that we have to stop here for the soup just for J. On the way here though, my reading glasses broke. So J went down to the falls for just a quick photo, and then met me in the gift shop as I was desperately seeking new glasses. None to be had, so I was holding the broken ones up without anything for them to hold onto my head with;) J got his soup, but sadly agreed that it was not as good as it used to be.

After this was Geysir. We brought our own Yaktrax today, which were much needed at many of the stops, but especially here. Inside the gift shop, I asked about glasses and thank goodness they had some! They were under lock and key and were not cheap, but they had them. I had a choice between black and leopard print, lol. Black it was, and I just stuck my head in the sand regarding the cost.

Tonight was supposed to be a retry for the aurora tour, but again weather dictated something else.

Once back in Reykjavik we headed to ROK for dinner. This is a place that again we have walked by probably a hundred times, so we're glad we had time to fit this in. It is all small plates and everything we had was good. In case you sense a theme here, we have never had a bad meal in Iceland. The plates were quite small, which was really nice so that you could share quite a few and not feel stuffed. A couple of our favorites were the grilled baguette with pears and goat cheese, a cured reindeer with blue cheese, almonds and burned butter, and arctic char with chili flavored quinoa salad with mandarins, pomegranates and parmegiano. We agreed that we need to come back on another trip just to try some of the other small plates. BTW, ROK was featured on the Iceland episode of Somebody Feed Phil.

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After dinner we did more walking around. Now Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world, but they are not immune to things happening. Pickpockets have started to show up, and the police have been very good at shutting down those rings, but they are back. We had just walked out of a store and as I was putting my phone in my jacket pocket, there was suddenly a man right behind us, almost touching. I stopped and turned right around to his face and he bolted. It was the gut feeling that something wasn't right. He did not get anything, and thankfully we had our things out of anyone elses reach, but he was hoping. Ironically just today I was reading on RUV that the pickpockets are back in Reykjavik.

Since ice cream is a must here, we stopped at Valdis. Yes, even in the winter people sit outside in the snow to eat their ice cream.

After that we kept walking along the waterfront and again we saw the aurora!

Back to the hotel to pack and get ready to leave the next day.

Our hotel included breakfast each morning, and it was fine, but nothing special. So today we skipped it and went to Baka Baka which I had been to before with our daughter. It was quiet and the food was good. J had bacon and eggs, and the bacon is more like pork belly as it is so thick. He had toast too, which we laughed at because it was buttered and came with more butter. I had the hazlenut french toast with strawberries and nutella. It was really good, but I was burnt out on eating out at this point so Ijust picked at it. Then we stopped at Braud to bring home cinnamon rolls for our house sitter and our daughter. Somehow they made it home without getting squished.

We grabbed our bags and took a taxi to Sky Lagoon. We have been there several times as well, but not since they have expanded their 7 step ritual. Wow, they did a fantastic job with it! Much more spacious, and everything just flows better. What a great way to end the trip.
Our taxi driver from earlier came back to get us and whisked us off to KEF. We did check our bags since we purchased enough items so that our bags did not fit the carryon size for Icelandair. I brought a small LeSportsac weekend duffel bag with me, so I used that as my carryon for the way home. At KEF we stopped at the VAT office and I had all the paperwork ready. The line moved very quickly, and one of my refunds has already been credited back. Passport control took a while as there were only 2 agents working. The line backed into the second waiting room area. When it was our turn, the agent looked through our passports and I could see him start to grin and he asked us what was so special about Iceland. He noticed all of the KEF stamps we had, lol. He was very happy that we love his country and keep returning.

Just before passport control is a hot dog stand, so that was a must. They use lamb in their hot dogs in Icleland and use fresh and fried onions a condiments, along with their special mustard. That was lunch, yum!

The flight home was uneventful. I was wondering how it would be at SEA upon landing since Global Entry is paused now with the government shutdown, but it was quick. I was surprised since there were several other international arrivals at the same time. Everyone had to go to the regular line, and the machine took our photo and we were pointed out the door, that was it.

The Lyft driver we had when we went to SEA offered to pick us up, so we did that and he was waiting for us.

It was a great trip and I can't wait to return! This was our 9th trip and put us at over 70 nights in the country. There is still so much more to see and do though!

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Great trip report. Love the detail. I have never been tempted to return to Iceland (was there briefly 50 years or so ago) until today!

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Thank-You! Yearning to go back for trip #3. Perhaps for our 50th Anniversary next year.

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Oh my gosh, mikliz, it sounds like such a wonderful trip! I am hanging on every word! Of course, I am frantically writing down notes for my upcoming trip, as I'm sure you can guess. It was even more fun because I spent half the day working on my Iceland itinerary! And last night I made a reservation at Narfeyrarstofa in Stykkisholmur based on an earlier trip report of yours, lol!

I did have to laugh at you breaking your reading glasses, though. I mean, not laughing, because it was funny (sorry!), but just laughing because I am always terrified of that happening, and I never EVER leave home without packing an extra pair of reading glasses. For long trips I will carry three, just in case. 😂

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What impressed me the most when reading, was how quickly you pivoted to plan B, recognizing that despite your experience driving in Iceland, it was safer to leave the driving to the professionals.

I was also happy to hear, that despite often exploring the country on your own, you were still able to enjoy the day tours.

My one problem with the trip report, and it’s a big one, is that you now have me thinking of Iceland when I leave for Spain later today. :-)

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Great trip report @mikliz97! Thank you for sharing your experiences on your most recent trip to Iceland, sounds like you had an awesome birthday trip! My wife and I can't wait to go back to Iceland, we had such a great time back in September 2024. We've been to Loki Cafe and loved it, but now we need to go to ROK, and the other places you mentioned! We too thoroughly loved the seven-step ritual at Sky Lagoon.

It's reassuring you had an uneventful and quick experience with EES. We'll likely experience EES for the first time when we go to Paris in a month. We've prepared for it by watching some YouTube videos and reading the FAQs on the EES official website; but your personal experience with EES is helpful.

I'm sorry you had a near-pickpocketing experience in Reykjavik, it's unfortunately a good reminder to maintain situational awareness regardless of whether we're at home or travelling.

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Katiecem--Oh my gosh, I can't even imagine what it was like 50 years ago! Our first trip was in 2015 and so much has changed even since then.

Gail--A 50th anniversary at Laugaras would be ideal:)

OrdinaryRebecca--Thanks:)

Mardee--That restaurant in Stykkisholmur was hands down the best one we have been to in all of our trips and we have had some excellent ones! Trust me, I was laughing at the broken glasses too! I pulled them out of the case and one arm just fell off. I tried shoving it back on, but I couldn't see to do it, lol. I never thought about taking a back up pair as it just never occurred to me. You can bet I will have extras stashed in every bag now.

Carrie--I know some people are adamant about not taking tours, but in Iceland they work so well even for those of us that prefer to self drive. Enjoy Spain and then plan Iceland when you return;)

cnelsvml09--One of our trips was also September 2024! We had lunch at Loki in 2023 and it was just ok, so we were glad that this time it was better. I think the other time it was just too busy and they had a hard time keeping up as that was an August trip and Reykjavik was super busy that day. I too wondered how EES would be, but truly it was nothing. We had to put our 4 fingers on a pad that read the prints, and that was it, nothing more.

Since the lagoons are one of our favorite things to do, I plan on doing a post with the comparisons and our opinions of each one.

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Another fun and informative post! Your Plan A/B will be helpful lesson for future trip planners.

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Since the lagoons are one of our favorite things to do, I plan on doing a post with the comparisons and our opinions of each one.

That would be great! I'm trying to pin it down to two and having a very hard time doing so.