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Iceland Sept 2024

A friend from college from way back had been asking me to take her to Iceland, so we finally made it happen. We were sorority sisters and have known each other for almost 40 years. She was an excellent travel partner and we had the best time! We just flew home last night and with jet lag I was up at 2:20am today, lol, so figured I might as well do a trip report now.

Day 1 Thursday
We were due to fly out at 8pm out of SEA, and our drivers were picking us each up around 2:30 for the airport. At 11:25 I received a text that our flight was in the process of being cancelled. I tried not to panic, but called my friend and told her to get to the airport NOW. I called Icelandair and went onto their chat and got us rebooked on the 3:50 flight. I was on hold for quite a while getting that done, so in the meantime I got the dogs in the crate, and the house locked up and ordered an Uber and cancelled my driver (not time for him to get here that fast). I asked the Uber driver to drive as fast as he could, but alas he had one speed, and it was about the pace of a snail. We made it though!

Checking in at the Icelandair counter, surprisingly there was not a line. They did make us put our bags in the sizer and they weighed them, which they always do at SEA, but they no longer tag the bags as "cabin approved". We made our way to the gate. Due to the flight change, we lost our good seats, and both ended up in middle seats. I was lucky and the two gentlemen on either side were very nice, although chatty so there was no sleep to be had.

Day 2 Friday
While still at SEA, I emailed our car rental company to let them know we were arriving 4 hours earlier. Upon arrival, our car was not ready so we went over to the Aurora Hotel and had breakfast and waited. It didn't take too long. We picked up the car and were off to Reykjavik.

We had booked the hotel for the night before so that we could go straight to our room. It took us a while to find the parking, so round and round the block we went until we finally figured it out.

Once checked in it was time to go explore Reykjavik. We walked down to the Sun Voyager, over to Harpa, checked out the Phallological Museum, walked up the Rainbow Road, stopped in at the Handknitting Association Store, and then had lunch at Sjavargrillid. D had a shellfish salad and I had the lobster tacos. Both were excellent! We made a quick stop at Braud for cinnamon rolls, but D was starting to feel the jet lag so we went back to the room at 2pm. She napped and I kept wandering. We had been awake for 25 hours at this point. A couple hours later D popped up out of bed and was raring to go once again. We walked to the Sea Baron for dinner. We each had their famous lobster soup and then shared veggie and potato kabobs.

At this point we received an email from our northern lights tour that it was cancelled for tonight due to conditions. So instead wwe went back to Harpa to see it in the evening lights, which is stunning. We also walked way back to Pufa, which is a hill on the waterfront next to a fish processing factory. This is an 8 meter tall hill with no handrails or anything, and a very narrow circular path to the top. I can attest that in the wind it is a bit unnerving. At the top you can see the city, and there is a fish drying hut there.

After this we walked along the waterfront back to the Sun Voyager with the evening lights and then back to our hotel for a nightcap in the bar. The bartender made us something with prosecco. I have no idea what it was, but it went down very easy:) 25k steps today

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Day 3 Saturday
Breakfast at the hotel. We ran into a man with a UO Duck shirt on, so I had to say "Go Beavs" as we walked past him. We had a friendly chat with him:)

We drove up to Borgarnes. On the way there, there is a 6km tunnel under the water. I have known D for 38 years and did not know she has a serious aversion to tunnels. She did great though! We stopped at N1 and used some gas cards that we had bought on a previous trip and not used, so we got some road trip snacks for in the car. D was feeling like she was getting a cold, so we bought a shot of something that had a lot of ginger in it, and while it tasted absolutely awful, it seemed to help. We made stops at the Snaefellsness Visitors Center (the woolen store there is no longer), the black church in Budir, saw horses mating right next to the road (road show, lol!), and then had lunch in Arnastapi. Fish and lamb soups for us hit the spot, and then we explored Arnastapi. The stone bridge there is beautiful, but "drone boy" decided he needed to use his drone here right over my head and then he went to the bridge and stood there operating that darn thing for far too long and far too close over other people's heads. WWhy?????

The Bardur statue there is an interesting piece and so beautiful.

Then we headed off to Hellissandur to check out the murals. This is the Street Art Capital of Iceland. We found a cute little shop in town and bought some beautiful sweaters there.

After that we headed to Olafsvik to a woolen sweater shop that my husband said was a must, but it was closed for the season. Next summer we will stop.

Onward to Kirkufoss at the base of Kirkufell, which is nicknamed church mountain.

We arrived in Stikkisholmur to our hotel, Egilsen. Such a cute little place! We had dinner reservations across the street at Narfeyrarstafa which was excellent! Best dinner of the trip! We shared a salad, had the bread and butter (butter is served on a rock and topped with salt). Then we each had the pan fried cod with potatoes and capers. This was the largest piece of cod, but perfectly prepared. Today was only 12k steps, so not bad considering we did about 5 hours of driving. Our room at the Egilsen was beautiful and extremely comfortable.

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Day 4 Sunday
Breakfast at Hotel Egilsen was excellent. Lots of fresh fruit, cold smoked salmon, fresh breads, skyr, and smoothies. Beautifully presented as well.

We were then on our way to Helgafell, which is a sacred hill not far from town. They ask you to pay 450kr per person, and you just put the cash in a little honor jar on the deck. The saying goes that as you hike up the hill you are not to utter a word and do not look back. Once at the top, face east and then silently ask for 3 wishes. You cannot tell anyone what you wished for. The scenery from the top is just stunning and you can see 360 degrees. We had this to ourselves, which was especially nice!

On our drive back down from Snaefellsness, we stopped at Gerduberg Cliffs and the nearby church. The basalt cliffs there are so impressive!

Our next stop was Hvammsvik Hot Springs. This is hands down my favorite commercial hot spring in Iceland from all of our trips. It was a beautiful day and the sun was shining. This sits on the fjord, so the cold plunge is the fjord. We both did it, and about froze! You can rent water shoes there as the rocky terrain is rough on your feet. There are I think 8 different "pools" there of varying temperatures. It was perfect and so relaxing. They have a small bistro there as well, so we shared a sandwich before we left.

Our next stop was Thingvellir National Park. The fall colors were in their glory. We wandered over to Silfa and watched the snorkelers between the two tectonic plates. We wandered many of the trails in the park and just took in the beauty.

After that wwe headed to Bruarfoss. There is a new car park so you just need to walk a short 5 minutes or so to the beautiful waterfall. In the past, you had to hike 4.5 miles r/t which we have done, but this is a nice option when you are short on time or if weather is bad. This waterfall is not tall like many others, but has the most beautiful blue water you can imagine.

It was time to head to our guesthouse to check in, the Arbakki Farmhouse Lodge in Reykholt there in the Golden Circle. We checked in and then headed out to dinner at Mika. We started with a shared appetizer of scallops with chocolate flakes, served in scallop shells. Then salad and lamb, and their famous hot chocolate for dessert.

The sunset on the way back to Arbakki has the most gorgeous bright orange colors!

Later that night, we knew the chances for the aurora were good, so we went out the back door of our room and through the trees to take a look and we were rewarded! So beautiful! Today was also 12k steps and about 6 hours of driving.

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Day 5 Monday
Breakfast at the hotel was in a very light and airy sunroom. A perfect way to start the day.

Our first stop was Gulfoss. The sun was out, but it was very cold and the path was very icy. This waterfall is one that you cannot imagine the magnitude of until you experience it. The gift shop here is excellent, and they have a cafe as well. We made a few purchases, but then kept on.

Next stop was Hrunalaug, a rustic hot spring not too far away. It is privately owned, and to keep it clean etc they limit the number of people at any given time. Cash only, 2500kr per person. There are two changing huts, one for women and one for men. Inside those are little baskets you can put your stuff in and take near the hot spring so you have your towel, phone etc nearby. It is VERY slippery to get in. but I managed to not go face first which I have done at another one;) The sun was still shining and it was so relaxing.

We were then off to Fridheimer for lunch. This is a tomato growing operation that has a wonderful lunch in the greenhouse. We were a bit early for our reservation, so we sat in the bar area instead. There are horses on site as well, and when we were walking out they were doing a private show. We could see a bit of it, and the riders were holding steins of beer while riding. I believe they were doing that to show how smooth the horses tolt is.

Our next adventure was Gjain. There are two ways to get there, one for regular vehicles and one for 4x4's with higher clearance. We missed the first turnoff, so headed up the mountain to the other, but decided that even while our rental was AWD and supposedly had the clearance, we were not about to risk it. So we turned around and headed back. As it was, the regular road was 6.6 km in and VERY rough. We made it though and at first we were not convinced it was worth it, and then, then we saw it. OMG, it was like a fairytale! Every step of the way got better and better. Truly magical!

At this point it had been a long day and we were hungry. We made it to Vik and got take out from Black Crust Pizza and went to our guesthouse, Giljur, outside of Vik, which was more like a hostel. In all of my trips to Iceland, this was the first time it worked out to stop at BCP for dinner and it was excellent! The guesthouse had shared bathrooms which were very clean and we never had a wait. We had about 9k steps today, and nearly 6 hours of driving.

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Day 6 Tuesday
This morning we headed straight to Reynisfjara Black Sand beach. Upon arrival, the yellow warning light was on, and regardless of that, you always have to be extremely careful of sneaker waves here. We stayed far back, but watched a few people go into the very risky area. We didn't want to watch. The basalt cliffs here are just beautiful! We lucked out and there was free parking here today, so that was nice. Our breakfast today was skyr and juice in the car;)

After that we headed to Yoda Cave. This was an interesting stop. There were trailers and tents and all sort of odd stuff, and we thought it looked like they might be a film crew. Tents and vans full of ugly old recliners, and just lots of old stuff, and littered with empty bottles of vodka etc. We were so confused. We were about to leave when a person from the crew appeared so we had to ask. Apparently they were setting up for a private event for the following evening. It was to be their version of Burning Man. I am still unsure of how I feel about this. So strange.

Next stop was a bathroom in the middle of nowhere. Just a square building with two stalls, but then an upper deck for the views. We were supposed to pay but the machine was not working.

After that we made a quick stop at Foss a Sidu. I always think the house across from it is so fortunate to see that every day.

Next on our agenda was Jokulsarlon for the glacier lagoon zodiac boat ride. The parking lot was full, so we parked across the street over by diamond beach. No diamonds on the beach here today, so we walked under the bridge back over to the main glacier lagoon and grabbed lunch at a food truck there. Fish n chips, and it was excellent! Then we got suited up for our excursion and off we went. Our guide was excellent and there were 8 of us in the zodiac. The icebergs in the lagoon are just so beautiful. The glacier has retreated so much already, and they say it will be gone within 50 years. We did see several seals. One was sunning itself on a tiny iceberg, and the other was sunning itself on what they call "Jesus Rock". There is a rock that does not come up above the water, but almost, so the seals sun on that and it looks like they are walking on water, if you will. Again, the sun was shining and everything was glistening on the water. Before leaving, we checked diamond beach again, but alas no diamonds.

We headed up to a cultural center up the road a bit. The long outside wall looked like a bookshelf of books. Again, I love how Iceland is so creative with their art.

Our next stop was our guesthouse for the night, up outside of Hofn. Guesthouse Nypugardar sits out by itself with no shelter from the elements at all. We had a little cottage there that was quite rustic, but really nice. We had dinner there, which worked, but if we had time we would have gone into Hofn. Weather was turning on us though, so we wanted to hunker down. Our cottage was comfy, but we had a heck of time with the door and kept locking ourselves in. The views were just beautiful. which is the running theme in Iceland. The winds were so insane though that it honestly felt like the cottage was going to lift off. I have experienced the strong winds of Iceland before, but this was quite unnerving. We asked the lady who runs it about our plans for the next day as we did not want to get stuck due to weather. As usual, the Icelanders are very relaxed and she looked at us like we were nuts for thinking that was bad weather;). Today we had another 12k steps and about 4.5 hours of driving.

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Day 7 Wednesday
In the morning there was a lull in the winds, and no precipitation, so we jumped at the chance to hit the road. With the winds coming down from the north, the drive was easy.

Our first stop was an unnamed waterfall that we stumbled upon. Then onto Vik to Skool Beans which is a converted school bus that is now the cutest little coffee shop. We headed up the hill to look over the town, and over the church. Sweeping views!

Then onto Kvernufoss which is near Skogafoss and sits tucked back in a canyon. Gorgeous!!!! There was a rainbow at the falls there, which always makes it even nicer. We had a good laugh here as the winds were whipping, and even with a headband on I received a new Icelandic hair style;) The Skogar Museum near this is very good, especially the outdoor area. You can go in the old turf buildings, the old church, etc and it is fascinating. I loved the elf houses and elf church off to the side by the woods.

Skogafoss was nice, but busy as expected. Incredible rainbow here too, and it went full circle!

Next stop was Seljalandsfoss and Gljufrafoss. Giljufrafoss was mobbed and people were not being very considerate, so we skipped this one this time.

We made a few stops at local handknit places and made a few purchases, and then made our way to Eldhestar Hotel in Selfoss. Dinner that night was at Ingolfsskali Viking Restaurant, which I had been to before so it was a must. It did not disappoint:) I love the atmosphere here. The cod dish this evening was exceptional.

Back to Eldhestar ro repack as we were leaving the next evening for home. The aurora forecast was excellent, and our room had a door right out to a little patio and faced north, so around 9pm we looked out and WOW, what a treat! It started!!! I have seen the aurora in Iceland a few times, including one that was out of this world, but this was even better! The entire sky lit up and the lights were dancing around and it was more than you could ever hope for!

When we first went out, we were in our nightgowns and went out just to check. OMG, SOOOOOO COLD!!! We raced in and threw on long johns, boots and a jacket, still in our nightgowns, so quite the sight, lol. We didn't care though and we just kept watching. It went on for hours! It was hard to get to sleep after that as you felt like a kid on Christmas with the adrenaline. Today was 12k steps and about 6 hours of driving.

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Day 8 Thursday
This is our last full day as we had an evening flight home. We started off with a horseback ride. There were just 6 of us, and our guide. The ride was great as was the guide. Unfortunately at the very end when we were less than 5 minutes from the stable, one of the horses got spooked by something and backed up and then took off. The rider's helmet flew off, and one of his legs was still in the stirrup and he was dragged quite a ways. The guide was beyond excellent though and we all remained on our horses trying to stay calm. I looked back just enough to make sure it was not D and then focused on my horse and tried to keep it calm as it was upset. The rider was SO lucky and appeared to be ok. He did hit his head though, so he and his partner headed off to the hospital to get checked out. He does need a new jacket as his puffer was shredded to pieces. To say that was scary is a huge understatement, but I cannot praise the guide enough on how she handled everything. The other 2 in our group were women from Germany and we had lunch with them before heading to our next stop.

We had planned to do the hot river hike today, but were tired and decided to just wander Selfoss and take it easy. We found yet another handknitting store, went to the main square in town and just took it easy. I was thrilled to find a specific home store and bought two more duvet covers for our duvets that we bought here on a prior trip. They are not a size that I can find in the US, so have made my own covers in the past. Being able to buy them was definitely a perk!

I also had to stop a Bonus for more of their shopping bags. IYKYK.

Today was 22k steps and about 2.5 hours of driving.

Rental car drop off, KEF etc all went smooth. We were so exhausted that we both actually slept for over 5 hours on the flight home!

A few random things. On this trip I saw more inconsiderate visitors than I have on all of my trips, which was disappointing. One group stopped on the side of the road, not on a pullout, and actually lifted up a wire fence to get into the private field of a farmer's horses. Another person stopped their campervan just over a hill in the middle of the road to get photos, so the people coming from behind him could not see the vehicle and almost hit it, and then had to go around it. The guy was parking entirely in the travel lane of traffic. We saw many people pulled over and walking on the lava/moss, far in to get photos. People driving way too fast when farmers were trying to round up their sheep. There were more, but you get the idea. All of this just made me sad, and angry. Being a visitor means you need to be on your best behavior.

We each took just a carryon bag and a day pack. Our bags were weighed and had to fit in the sizer at SEA. They no longer tag the bag as "cabin approved" though, which the agents said was new to them from just a day or two before. My bag was 19.6 pounds and what I packed was perfect. We did each bring a LeSportsac duffel bag to bring stuff home. For the return flight, we checked our bags, and then carried on the duffels and our daypacks. I will share my packing list as well.

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This is my packing list:

In my daypack I had:
rain pack cover
paperwork
wallet
passport
pen
meds
hat
gloves
headband
pouch with charging cables and adapters
selfie stick/tripod
Cotopaxi fanny pack
Readers
Some of my moms ashes

In my 21" rolling Rick Steve's bag (yes, it fits Icelandairs sizers), my bag came in at 19.6 pounds total
1 quick dry hiking pants, navy
1 fleece lined leggings, black
1 thin Bombas merino wool long sleeve, light pink
1 heavier merino wool long sleeve, hot pink
1 thin nice gray sweater
1 1/4 zip technical shirt, black
1 cuddle duds long johns
1 short nightgown
4 pr wool socks plus liners
8 pr underwear and 2 bras
1 swimsuit
1 quick dry towel
toiletries and makeup and 2 travel size hair brushes
toothbrush
1 waterproof phone pouch
1 thin cooler bag
1 LeSportsac deluxe weekender bag (lg size)
misc ziplock baggies

Packed, but did not need:
1 rain pants
hand and toe warmers
backup gloves

Wore in the plane:
black fleece lined leggings
wool socks
Lowa Renegade hiking boots (swear by them!)
navy heavy turtleneck
Orange REI rain jacket

My packing list was perfect for this trip. The few things I did not end up needing were only because we had great weather.

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2245 posts

Interesting well-written report. I do not write as well as you and my next trip report will be disjointed like my first one. Maybe it will be better organized.

I noticed that you carried some of your mother's ashes with you. Maybe I missed this but was it to release in Iceland or just to feel close to your mother and have her with you.

I love your patience and your ability to remain cool in the face of stress. I am getting ready for my next trip and will try to learn from you when things do not always go as they should or as I want.

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2637 posts

bostonphil--You are too kind. Writing its my downfall and I struggle with it. I took mom's ashes to leave a bit there. I checked with the authorities before to make sure it was ok. It is a running joke because mom was a terrible traveler, so we are letting her see the world now;) She is headed to Spain with my brother in a few days as well. My friend and I have been texting this morning and we are both saying we can't believe how much we did, and that the trip is over. Iceland just has my heart, and I don't think I stopped smiling the entire time we were there. Well, except for the horse thing, that was terrifying, but the rest was just so special.

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I am thinking of the Way with Martin Sheen.

That was the first time I heard about Caminos and Santiago Spain.

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bostonphil--I was not aware of that movie, but just watched a preview. Oh my gosh, I am watching it this weekend! Even the trailer made me cry. It looks really good though, so thank you!

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2547 posts

Great trip report. I hope your friend had a good time. The horse riding incident must have been scary. Have you been horseback riding before? I would not know what to do to calm my horse in that situation. And you would think tourists would have the common sense not to stop on the road where it is not safe and there is no shoulder or trespassing on private property. We saw some crazies when were there hanging off the sides of slippery slopes above the cliffs. I noted when we were there that there were places along the road where we would have liked to photograph but no safe place to stop so we kept going. They need to perhaps create safe turnouts near scenic areas where people want to photograph IMHO.

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Mary--My friend had a great time! I have ridden a time of times, but am not proficient by any stretch of the imagination, My friend has owned horses for years and is very experienced. I only looked back quick enough to make sure it wasn't her, although I still felt horrible for the person it was. I have a friend whose daughter was killed on a horse, so get anxious, and this certainly didn't help that. I just kept petting my horse on the side of his neck, which he seemed to like. I made sure my feet were out of the stirrups too just in case. I agree, It would be helpful if the country made more viewpoints for visitors. At one point, two cars were on my tail something awful, and I saved both of them from a traffic camera ticket, but they both passed me after that and there was another camera so I know they both got caught by that. I wonder how many others they racked up as well.

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Wonderful trip report! I’m in my daughter’s car, driving back across Washington. Her family enjoyed their Iceland trip in 2021 so much, so I read this to her ans she’s driving, and she’s commenting on special places you mentioned with smiles.

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3560 posts

I was just talking with a friend today about Iceland. It’s high on our list and we hope to go with our friends in 2026 or 27. Glad you had fun!

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Tammy, I know you love photography and Iceland is a photographer’s dream so you should definitely have it on your list. I would love to go back.

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Jean--How funny! We took the kids in 2021 and had a great time.

Tammy--Yes, Iceland is a photographers dream! Let me know if you have any questions when you start to plan.

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Love your report, and it sounds like you had an amazing trip. I’m jealous of your aurora experiences. I was so exhausted most days that I slept straight through the night. I didn’t know about Gjain until I returned and saw someone post about it on Facebook, it looked magical. Your Helgafell hike sounds amazing, too. I loved that you brought your mom’s ashes with you. I’ve told a friend’s daughter that I want her to do something similar to that with my ashes someday. I tried to go that same store in Olafsvik, but found it closed, too. Where did you go in Hellissandur? I looked at one place there, but couldn’t find one with the colors that I wanted. Thanks again for sharing your experiences!

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2637 posts

Gypsy--Don't feel bad, I too slept through my alarm clock several times for the aurora. We do the same thing and run ourselves ragged every day and just collapse into bed at night. In Hellisandur we just stumbled upon the store. It was in the building with the black mural, up the street from where the rest of them are. The store front is on the other side road, so it is easy to miss. We were just there to take photos of the fox mural and then stumbled upon it. The store had very limited selection of the sweaters, but my friend and I loved this one so we both bought it. The store in Olafsvik will reopen in May. We will be there in July again, so will check it out then. I am still on the hunt for a specific one that I have in mind. I have 2 that I like, but I want a short sleeve cardigan with just one or two buttons at the top. We saw a lot of locals wearing those last year and I would like that as it would be cooler.

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I was pretty philosophical about missing it, initially, but I felt like my family was so disappointed in me. I really want to go back. What months have you traveled there? I saw that the fall colors are out in full bloom now, which look amazing, and I would love to see that and the northern lights, but I would also love to see the lupine in bloom and puffins.

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Gypsy—we have had 2 February trips, 2 October trips, 1 late August trip, 1 July/August trip and then this late September trip. Each season is beautiful in its own way. Next summer we will be there in July and August again.

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Well done! Was fun to mentally follow you around with the memory of our recent trip so fresh. We too saw "tourists behaving badly" and I would not for a minute blame Iceland for limiting the number of tourists, if they could do such a thing. Gjain was a surprising place I thought. So glad you had a great trip after your initial plane issue and like they say, "It will work out..."

And you go back when??? lol...

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Imafarmer--I am glad you enjoyed! I love following other reports as it makes me feel like I am back I nay happy place. Yes, I have thought about Iceland limiting visitors, and honestly I think that would be a good thing. Probably not a popular opinion, but it is not unlike here with our national parks and the quota/permit system. That is too funny that you mention that phrase, as in the car we were practicing it over and over! Yes, we head back in July again:). This time I think we will split our time with 8 days in Iceland and 8 in Greenland, but the 16 days are already booked for Iceland.

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3125 posts

Thanks for taking the time to write a great trip report. I took a few notes for my upcoming trip to Reykjavik. I appreciate your willingness to share your expertise. You were a big help to me when I was deciding on hotel location.

I know you’ve been to Norway. I’m curious if you’ve been to Switzerland. That is my favorite country (so far) and I think you would enjoy it.

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Carrie--Thank you for the kind words:) I have not been to Switzerland yet, but it is on our list. We want to do hut to hut hiking there, but this summer will be Iceland and Greenland, and next summer will be Faroe Islands. So hopefully after that!