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How I Do Love London!

Earlier this year my prospects of travel seemed dire, but in June a decision was made to spend my 60th birthday in the place I love most, and instead of going solo I took my friend V who is dealing with cancer--we planned it to occur after a round of chemo, and he did quite well--we managed everything I cooked up on the itinerary, with an eye to must-sees for him and add-ons of interesting tours to places I'd been before (this was my 6th visit, his first.)

We arrived via United at 7 am on Sunday the 11th--through immigration in 15 minutes, on the Piccadilly line for the 40 minute ride to The Baileys in South Kensington and then off to Greenwich via DLR for our Sunday roast lunch at the Coach & Horses. V used his credit card for the Tube, I topped up my Oyster, spending £81 over 8 full days--I missed the tap in at the Cutty Sark DLR station so I think that added a bit--blame jet lag! It was quite warm the first few days and thus we explored the Market and up to the Observatory and then Maritime Museum at a slow pace, taking the Thames Clipper back to Westminster by 4 pm. I can usually last til 4-5 pm and then that's it, time for the hotel.

Monday we were off to the Tower for a 9:30 entry--V loves the ravens as much as I do and they were in fine form--after the Crown Jewels--no line at 9:45!--we spent plenty of time with the ravens and exploring, taking a Yeoman Warder tour and having a light lunch, before leaving to walk Tower Bridge. That afternoon was earmarked for shopping--Liberty for fabric and crafts, John Lewis for a few fall items, poked around Carnaby St, and then a pub dinner at The Clachan on Kingly, just behind Liberty.

Tuesday we entered Westminster Abbey at 9:30--lovely as ever, and then a special tour of the Gallery--wonderful treasures to see, and a fabulous view over the quire, no photos allowed from up there. We had time to walk Whitehall to Trafalgar Sq and had lunch at the Sherlock Holmes on Northumberland before our entry at the Churchill War Rooms at 1:30--a repeat for me, but I find WWII a fascinating time in London so enjoyed it all over again. Walked St James Park to view Buckingham Palace. A quick stop at the British Library for Treasures and books, then dinner at the Stanhope Arms across from the hotel.

Wednesday I had a 10 am timed ticket for Now You See Us--Women Artists in Britain 1520-1920 at the Tate Britain--really lovely display of works A fire alarm shooed us out for 20 minutes, then back in to explore and see plenty of JMW Turner before finding Beautiful Knitters, a tiny shop on Moreton near the Pimlico station. Then off to Hampstead for a wonderfully interesting 2.5 hr London Walks tour--I had long wanted to explore Hampstead and this tour was perfect, though I do want to return on my own--everyone artistic seems to have lived there, so many Blue Plaques! We then met up with V's niece who lives in London for a drink, and she suggested a great Turkish-middle eastern restaurant called Kilis on Theberton St in the Islington area--excellent food, nice change from pubs.

Thursday we headed to the Old Spitalfields Market--new area for me to explore, loved the bustling market and I made a point to go Thursday as they feature antiques that day--of course I found a couple of cool things...then to St Paul's cathedral for our timed entry between 12-2. We made it, somehow, huffing and puffing, up to the Whispering Gallery, but wouldn't try the other 2 levels--seems that few people do. Then we managed to finally find the Queenhithe Mosaic--I suggest using an app as we went from one street to another to finally get there--it's directly across the Thames from the Globe Theatre. This mosaic is just incredibly detailed, telling the story of London over the centuries, tucked away on a side pier. Observed people mudlarking--something I'd do if they'd allow new permits again. Dinner at the Hereford Arms near the hotel, much nicer pub experience with a separate dining area.

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2667 posts

Friday we were off to Windsor Castle--I decided we'd take the Elizabeth line to Slough, then the 6 minute GWR train to Windsor station. V had no trouble using his credit card, but I saw a notice on the train that Oyster cards would only go as far as West Drayton, so we had to exit, I ran over and tapped out with Oyster, then back in with my credit card and continued on very easily. Good to know, not sure what mess I'd have been in otherwise! We explored St George's Chapel first, very important to me to see Queen Elizabeth II's final resting place, then entered the Castle for our Great Kitchens Tour--quite interesting, we got to see the big kitchen used for banquets and a pastry kitchen, and see some areas that are off-limits otherwise. Then viewed the wonderful Dolls' House--I was a bit disappointed that the dolls belonging to Elizabeth & Margaret, given to them by the people of France in the 1930s, weren't on display anymore, but they did have a special display of wee books from the dolls' house. After touring the State Rooms we spent some time in the town of Windsor before heading back in time for our reservation at Hawksmoor 7 Dials--we had a great steak dinner, then wandered Covent Garden.

Saturday was my birthday and I had decided I wanted to visit a seaside town--Whitstable was everything I hoped it would be, easy train trip from Victoria, about 80 minutes, plenty to see in the charming town and the harbour markets, lots of time beachcombing after our excellent lunch at a French restaurant on Harbour St called Birdie's--escargot and lobster Thermidor were a special treat! Back in London by 7 and had a snack at the Shakespeare pub near Victoria.

Sunday, our final day, I had left open, and we decided to walk the canals starting at Paddington Basin--lunch at the Union Paddington, then through Little Venice and finally exiting in Regent's Park near the zoo. Back to Islington for Loop knitting shop in Camden Passage, also a bunch of antiques vendors, then stopped for a much-needed Pimm's Cup before heading back to pack up everything--V had no trouble but I, ahem, needed to use some of his suitcase for my goodies.

10:25 am flight had us on the Piccadilly line at 6:30 am sharp--no line to check in, 10 minutes through security, time for a restaurant breakfast and some last-minute souvenirs. 8 days seemed the perfect number--V got to see so many things I have raved about for years and he loves the very old and very new architecture, was surprised at how well he held up--I had warned him that this was NOT going to be a relaxing vacation as we had so much to see. It was, in short, absolutely fabulous. I will mention it was very hot and little A/C and thus my jeans and sleeveless tops should have instead been light dresses, plus add in the throngs of Taylor Swift fans in town for her 4 shows, and general hordes of tourists--I KNEW there was a reason I didn't like traveling in August, but I wanted a special birthday so it was all worth it.

My odd stats:
Miles walked over 8 days: 80.3
Tea towels: 15
Bags of Cheesy Wotsits brought home: 4

I brought my usuals--2 pairs jeans (LOTS of washing going on!), 2 sleeveless and 4 short-sleeved tops, 3/4 sleeve Smoking Lily Ina top for the plane rides. 2 pairs Ecco sneaker--new favorites are the Gruuv, black with white soles. 4 pairs Smartwool short socks. Trusty LeSportsac Deluxe Everyday bag. I did bring £200 in cash as I planned to visit antiques markets, which was the right choice as many sellers do not take cards, the rest went for a pub dinner.

Posted by
4061 posts

What a great birthday trip and special city to share with your friend.

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2667 posts

Thank you twice, Catherine! In your trip report a few months ago you mentioned the London Walks, so that inspired me to check the website...good heavens, I'd do each one if time possibly allowed, what a fabulous and varied selection they offer, and I zeroed in on Hampstead as I'd always been interested in that area.

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7690 posts

Christa, what a wonderful time you must have had! I also spent this past birthday in England (London) and it was so much fun! I will be going back next spring with two of my grandkids, and will be looking for a place to have Sunday Roast. How were all the pubs you ate at?

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2667 posts

Mardee--I found Hawksmoor when looking for a good roast lunch option, and I would definitely go there for that meal if timing worked out. As much as I love being solo--at one point V was banished to the lobby while I tried to get ready--I did have much better meals with a companion, especially in pubs because many have you order at the bar and then if solo and it's busy you might lose the table you selected. But, most pubs are tied to a company so they are essentially chains, offering the exact same meals...but we happen to like pub offerings--fish and chips, steak and ale pies, a bacon cheeseburger or even nachos one time, and all very tasty, no complaints there...then we went to the Hereford Arms on Gloucester and were really happy with the unique offerings they had. We never got around to my favorite thing when exhausted in the evening--snacky dinner, or better yet, take-away goodies from Harrod's. We saw a line of at least 50 people when in Covent Garden, and then I saw the restaurant was Dishoom--a favorite of mine but too spicy for V, unfortunately.

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449 posts

Christa, thanks for sharing the fun you had in London. Sounds like a very memorable birthday trip with a “chosen family” member :) Doesn’t get any better than that!

My daughter could steal your thread title. She, too, loves London so much. She’s just starting knitting and wants to head to a shop while there. She found one called Beautiful Knitters in Pimlico that she wants to visit. I will tell her about Loop, too.

Glad you had a great time!

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5260 posts

I'd do each one if time possibly allowed

I'm with you! I love that they give me an introduction to areas that are new to me. I'm glad you enjoyed the Hampstead Heath Walk. I never expected to be going on a little country hike in the middle of London!

Posted by
9124 posts

In an answer to the heading of your marvelous report….a Great Deal!!!

Always changing. Always the same! Never boring.

London walks are well done. Good price, knowledgeable and personable guides. Always take one when visiting my favorite city on the planet.

Excellent report.

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2667 posts

Mustlovedogs--I was quite thrilled with Loop; 2 floors of yarn and plenty of kits for knitting as well as some embroidery--I spent a solid hour in there, but then, I am a bit of a ditherer :) I liked Beautiful Knitters but it was very tiny, offering mainly sock-weight yarn, and both shops had some unique notions and tools.

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4652 posts

Sounds like a wonderful week! And sharing places you love with someone (who will love it, too) is extra fun! I spent my first week in London in December and a couple of days there in May. I have surprised myself both times with how I enjoy London, since I am not much of an”city person”. At some point before long, I will be back.

I am glad you were able to do so this time for your birthday!

Posted by
199 posts

Delightful trip report, Christa, and belated happy birthday!

What a lovely (if not restful) break this must have been for your friend, too. I send him my best wishes for the remainder of his treatment.

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768 posts

I loved reading your trip report, christa. Makes me want to go back to London! I’m also a big fan of London Walks.

What a wonderful way to celebrate your special birthday!

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150 posts

Christa! I've been thinking of you these past weeks, knowing you were on this special trip! And yay! It sounds absolutely delightful (minus the heat ... ) and I'm truly just overjoyed for you that you got to go. I'm sending very happy belated birthday wishes to you and lots of warm wishes for V as he continues on with treatment.

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948 posts

Superlative TR Christa, thanks so much! I was struck by how much planning must have gone into it ahead of time and wondered how you organize your trips and how you figure out what you might want to see? I've been to London many times over the decades, still got some good ideas, thanks again.

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1962 posts

Christa, I am in awe of everything you did and saw. I am so glad to hear V did a pretty good job at keeping up with the pace. My favorite travel partner, my darling adult daughter, is also struggling with cancer and I know how it can drain your energy. In 2022 visit to London I took the Hidden Highlights tour of Westminster Abbey (I try to visit each time I am in London) and really enjoyed the new Queen's Gallery, but also the fact it had an elevator up in addition to stairs & a nice toilet on that level.

Posted by
4159 posts

Lovely, fun trip for you and your friend. Happy Birthday! London is definitely one of those cities you can visit over and over and over again.
I’m booking your report for future reference.

Posted by
2573 posts

Great TR, christa. Makes me want to go back already.

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10049 posts

Love your trip report, thank you Christa. I too love London !! Thanks for sharing all this. It sounds like you and V had a wonderful time.

And yes happy belated birthday !

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117 posts

Happy birthday! And thank you for giving us a present - a very lovely trip report!

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2667 posts

Thanks to everyone for the birthday wishes!

Laurie Beth--we unfortunately did not see the elevator up to the Queen's Gallery at Westminster Abbey until after we climbed the stairs!

Sandancisco--re the planning, I had just 2 months rather than my usual 4-6 months, but since I am very familiar with London I already had several must-dos in mind. I visit the Tower every trip, and then knew that V would enjoy touring Westminster Abbey (a hilarious moment ensued when he said, "does that have to do with the Beatles?" and that was when I knew I could plan ANYTHING I wanted and he'd be fine with it!), Churchill War Rooms, St Paul's, Greenwich and Windsor Castle. I researched what days/times things were open--Windsor just Thurs-Sun, etc--and kept tweaking my paper itinerary until it looked to be just the right balance, with plenty of open options for happy wandering, or in case V needed to rest a bit--as it was, we were out and about a good 10-11 hrs most days. I dithered over my birthday, searching "day trips from London by train" and settled on Whitstable. I left our final day open as I know things always evolve during an 8 day trip, but already had 3 options in mind--it was a Sunday and as long as it included another Sunday roast lunch I knew he'd be happy to wait an hour while I poked around the knitting shop!

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255 posts

Loved your trip report. I’m already looking forward to my next visit there. Have yet to do a walking tour, so thanks for the recommendation. Also the mosaic. And I will have to return to the Tate as it was very crowded and I was with 2 who were less interested in spending more time there.
And, of course, happy birthday ( just claim the month rather than just a day to celebrate—I do.)