Earlier this year my prospects of travel seemed dire, but in June a decision was made to spend my 60th birthday in the place I love most, and instead of going solo I took my friend V who is dealing with cancer--we planned it to occur after a round of chemo, and he did quite well--we managed everything I cooked up on the itinerary, with an eye to must-sees for him and add-ons of interesting tours to places I'd been before (this was my 6th visit, his first.)
We arrived via United at 7 am on Sunday the 11th--through immigration in 15 minutes, on the Piccadilly line for the 40 minute ride to The Baileys in South Kensington and then off to Greenwich via DLR for our Sunday roast lunch at the Coach & Horses. V used his credit card for the Tube, I topped up my Oyster, spending £81 over 8 full days--I missed the tap in at the Cutty Sark DLR station so I think that added a bit--blame jet lag! It was quite warm the first few days and thus we explored the Market and up to the Observatory and then Maritime Museum at a slow pace, taking the Thames Clipper back to Westminster by 4 pm. I can usually last til 4-5 pm and then that's it, time for the hotel.
Monday we were off to the Tower for a 9:30 entry--V loves the ravens as much as I do and they were in fine form--after the Crown Jewels--no line at 9:45!--we spent plenty of time with the ravens and exploring, taking a Yeoman Warder tour and having a light lunch, before leaving to walk Tower Bridge. That afternoon was earmarked for shopping--Liberty for fabric and crafts, John Lewis for a few fall items, poked around Carnaby St, and then a pub dinner at The Clachan on Kingly, just behind Liberty.
Tuesday we entered Westminster Abbey at 9:30--lovely as ever, and then a special tour of the Gallery--wonderful treasures to see, and a fabulous view over the quire, no photos allowed from up there. We had time to walk Whitehall to Trafalgar Sq and had lunch at the Sherlock Holmes on Northumberland before our entry at the Churchill War Rooms at 1:30--a repeat for me, but I find WWII a fascinating time in London so enjoyed it all over again. Walked St James Park to view Buckingham Palace. A quick stop at the British Library for Treasures and books, then dinner at the Stanhope Arms across from the hotel.
Wednesday I had a 10 am timed ticket for Now You See Us--Women Artists in Britain 1520-1920 at the Tate Britain--really lovely display of works A fire alarm shooed us out for 20 minutes, then back in to explore and see plenty of JMW Turner before finding Beautiful Knitters, a tiny shop on Moreton near the Pimlico station. Then off to Hampstead for a wonderfully interesting 2.5 hr London Walks tour--I had long wanted to explore Hampstead and this tour was perfect, though I do want to return on my own--everyone artistic seems to have lived there, so many Blue Plaques! We then met up with V's niece who lives in London for a drink, and she suggested a great Turkish-middle eastern restaurant called Kilis on Theberton St in the Islington area--excellent food, nice change from pubs.
Thursday we headed to the Old Spitalfields Market--new area for me to explore, loved the bustling market and I made a point to go Thursday as they feature antiques that day--of course I found a couple of cool things...then to St Paul's cathedral for our timed entry between 12-2. We made it, somehow, huffing and puffing, up to the Whispering Gallery, but wouldn't try the other 2 levels--seems that few people do. Then we managed to finally find the Queenhithe Mosaic--I suggest using an app as we went from one street to another to finally get there--it's directly across the Thames from the Globe Theatre. This mosaic is just incredibly detailed, telling the story of London over the centuries, tucked away on a side pier. Observed people mudlarking--something I'd do if they'd allow new permits again. Dinner at the Hereford Arms near the hotel, much nicer pub experience with a separate dining area.