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Holland in Spring With 2 Seniors

Hi everyone,

My 83 year-old grandmother and her 69 year-old cousin have been visiting me in Germany (first time in Europe for the latter) and we just returned from one of two trips-within-the-trip yesterday.

We flew Stuttgart to Schipol via KLM, and bought an "Amsterdam and Region" 3 day transit ticket for 33 euros at the bookstore in the Airport Plaza. This is generally a good deal for active travelers, although in retrospect it wasn't for us because we didn't use public transit at all on our 2nd day - but the amount of money we would have saved with another option is negligible. I would absolutely buy the pass if I was traveling with more active people.

We headed straight to Amsterdam, put our luggage in the locker at the main station, and promptly hopped on a canal cruise. It was one of the more expensive ones at 18 euros, but I wasn't paying and it was cold and rainy, so heading to the nearest option was fine. This was my first time on a canal cruise even though it was my fifth time in Amsterdam, and I would totally take another one in better weather being able to sit in the open air. The views from the water are distinct and it was fun to see landmarks in a new way, despite the "blah" recorded commentary. As it was, the glass windows fogged up frequently due to the rain.

Afterwards we hopped on the tram to Westerkerk, and got dinner at Cafe De Prins. Good food and service in a nice setting, we got fish'n'chips and I got a bacon cheese burger that's as good as any boutique burger I've had in the US. This brought us right up to our appointed time at the Anne Frank House, which despite this being my 4th visit to Amsterdam I'd never managed to do for a variety of reasons. Suffice it to say, it was a wonderful museum on it's own, but visiting the actual hidden annex was extremely moving. I was kind of afraid I'd break down, but managed to keep it together in the moment. Incidentally, the young man who recently was the subject of some news for wanting to wear his kippah (skullcap) as an Orthodox Jew and that turning into a big controversy with the museum board was our ticket taker. I wanted to give him a high-five or otherwise voice my support but he's probably tired of the issue now that he has the right to wear his kippah to work, although it's utterly crazy that a museum/memorial to people who were murdered because they were Jewish wouldn't let a Jewish person engage in such an unobtrusive mitzvah.

We were there for about 90 minutes, then headed to Haarlem to check into our hotel, the Ambassador City Center. It was more poorly reviewed than hotels I usually stay in, but beggars can't be choosers and 3-bed rooms aren't that easy to find. I was tickled to see that the Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days group was also staying there that night! We didn't arrive til late and they departed early, so I didn't get to schmooze with anyone who potentially reads the board, but it gave me faith that the hotel wouldn't be a total disaster, and it wasn't, although despite it's prime location (right in the main square across from the big church) and friendly service, I'd probably try to find another place to stay, simply because the bathrooms and beds were less than stellar and you can't open the windows to get fresh air. They did have a lift, which is one of the reasons I chose it for my travelers, but there were 5 stairs down into the room without a railing, which was very difficult for my grandmother to navigate. We opted not to do the breakfast, since the price was relatively high and we had plenty of options in town. Day 2 continues...

Posted by
3050 posts

Day 2: Grandma was pretty exhausted from the previous day, so we decided to explore Haarlem and not venture back into Amsterdam. Luckily there's plenty to do. Just wandering the beautiful old town and browsing the unique boutiques alone would be very enjoyable, but we also toured the Grote Kerk St. Bravo, the stunning historical church in the city center, before heading to the Frans Hals Museum.

I really recommend the Frans Hals Museum, although I'm biased because I love Golden Age Dutch painting. What made this unique is a relatively new exhibit that has modern interpretations of Hals work alongside the originals in a very creative and thoughtful way. Some of the new stuff was a little too "arty" for my charges, but they really enjoyed the well-curated collection of Dutch Masters as well as the beautiful historic building itself and the special flower displays currently on offer. It's a perfect size for an art museum, too - even though I love old European art, I get "museum fatigue" after a couple hours, and I think the 2 hours we spent there thoughtfully engaging with the subject material (with good written commentary in Dutch and English) was perfect. I would easily recommend this as a day trip from Amsterdam given how close it is, how beautiful Haarlem is, especially if you don't feel quite up to tackling the Rijksmuseum which is wonderful but overwhelming.

Over the course of 3 nights we enjoyed some really good food and drinking in Haarlem so I also want to give a shout out to the best fries I've ever had in the world at Der Haerlemsche Vlaamese (unless you're starving or sharing don't even think about ordering anything bigger than a small, and even the "mini-mini" was more than I could finish, and try it with sambaal and mayo if you like a little spice), really tasty tapas at El Pincho, and a series of great Braun cafes staffed by friendly people with good clientele: Cafe Koops (especially for beer nerds, talk Guiseppe if he's around, he's wonderful), Proeflokaal in den Uiver (nautically themed, best cheese plate I've ever ordered in my life), and that rarity, the Irish pub that's not actually in Ireland that feels like a real Irish pub and not a collection of stereotypes, the Wolfhound. For breakfast the ladies couldn't stop raving about a Crepe Affair and wanted to return, but they opened too late on our last day to do so.

Day 3 was Keukenhoff day! We took the 50 bus which was an easy and pleasant ride followed by a 15 minute walk alongside the fields to the entrance. I feel like an idiot for purchasing some 45 euro Keukenhoff tickets + coach trip from Amsterdam 3 years ago - now I'd just go to Schipol and take the bus from there if I wasn't staying in Haarlem. (But why not stay in Haarlem?) The gardens were stunning as always, but on a sunny Wednesday after a few days of poor weather, it was already busy by the time we arrived around 10:00 and was getting unreasonably so by the time we left 2 hours later. I kind of wish we'd managed to arrive at opening time just to avoid more of these crowds.

From there we took the bus to Schipol (there was, by 12:45, a pretty significant line waiting for the bus TO the gardens, be aware), then the train into Amsterdam, where we got lunch at the reliable Cafe T'Gasthuys and I showed my guests a bit of Spui, took them to the Beijinhof, the English church there, then walked up to the palace. This was my first time actually being able to tour the palace as every other time, the King has been in town. It's well worth it, the audioguide is excellent and included in the price, and the quality of sculpture in the building is mind-blowing. After we finished we'd been on our feet too much for the ladies so we returned to Haarlem for a quiet night (for them) and chatting up locals at Braun Cafes (for me). Took an easy bus to Schipol the next day and that was the end of an easy and hassle-free trip!

Posted by
681 posts

Sounds like a good trip and it must be nice to have family visiting you. Enjoy!

Posted by
1 posts

Next time don't miss the flower auction at Aalsmeer! An easy bus ride from Amsterdam early in the morning. A long walk through the auction area, fascinating! Entirely worth it. From there we took a bus to Haarlem and then back to Amsterdam by train.