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RS Heart of Scotland in May was great

Summary - was a packed and very active tour. Our guide Helen was personable, warm and wonderful as we have come to expect from RS guides. Our coach driver was the same (Jimmy) with the addition that he was super patient with drivers who could not quite figure out what to do when confronted by the coach on a narrow road! Hotels were all centrally located to the plans and very comfortable overall. Tour members ranged from later 20s thru mid 80s and everyone got along great from my perspective. Thought I would enjoy Edinburgh the most, and turned out that Inverness was more my thing overall.

Read on for the full report day by day.
Finally getting around to a report now that we have been home a few weeks - and the shutterfly book is done too! Thank goodness for a coupon for free pages! LOL

So, tour started on a Sunday afternoon so we flew on Thursday from SFO-LHR-INV with no issues arriving Friday. (We got lucky as they were to have a ground strike in LHR but resolved for the time being). I have decided I am not a fan of LHR - massive and seems unorganized and I don't like having to go thru shops to get to my gate! YMMV Inverness arrival was a non issue, just walked off the tarmac, thru the small airport and outside - only issue was there were not enough taxis so we waited about 30 minutes - if you fly in there, suggest pre booking a pick up if you don't want to wait.

We had booked two evenings at the Royal Highland (not the RS tour hotel) which was across from the Victorian Market and close to most things on foot. Nice if older hotel, but was clean and staff were courteous. Did not try the breakfast as we went out for breakfast both days. Did some sightseeing and ate dinner (tried haggis - good really!) at Hootenanny which also had live trad music that evening. Sampled some whisky too and managed to make it back before getting a good nights sleep. BTW we had been up about 28 hours at that point but never sleep before "bed time".

Saturday -We hired a driver to take us outside the city thru Inverness Tours, and Laura picked us up promptly at 9 and took us to Dunrobin castle, lunch, the beach and Clava Cairns - yes, Outlander fan in the group. I found her to be engaging and wonderful and highly recommend her. (There were 4 of us). This allowed us to cover a lot of ground and not worry about driving on the opposite side while jet lagged and we got to hear a lot about Scotland from a local. That night dinner was at the Castle Tavern, great food, view of the Castle (scaffolding mostly).

Sunday - checked out and into the RS hotel which was two blocks away (Radisson River Ness). New, shiny and had great breakfasts!
Meet the guide and group at 4/5 and off to dinner to Mustard Seed for group dinner. Welcome wine with dinner which was good.
Mon.- Breakfast, followed by meeting the driver of the coach and a ride to Loch Ness, the boat to Urquhart Castle, misty in the morning and sunshine by the time we stepped off the boat. Then Cawdor Castle, lovely gardens and lunch! Yummy Off to Culloden which was very moving and somehow bigger than I expected - weather still holding and warm! Back to town where we had made reservations at MacGregors for both dinner and their "whisky experience" musics and 5 drams - very fun if that is your thing- was a bit crowed for some of us but good tastes, tales and tunes.

Tue. - Checking out of the River Ness. Out to taste whisky at Glen Moray and visit the woolen mill in Elgin. We were split into 2 groups and got to tour and taste drams and then go to have a tour of the mill - so much work goes into making stuff (very expensive for a reason!). We finished our tour and had group lunch at the mill in the cafeteria and tried both Irn Bru (think orange crush) and Cullen Skink (chowder) delicious and sorry we had not tried sooner.

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Continued ...Ride the coach to Hotel Loch Rannoch for check in and for dinner as a group followed by a wonderful bagpipe demo by the famous Gellie McNab. This was our favorite hotel of the trip - lovely rooms, serene location and great views. Breakfast was okay.

Wed - Off to the crannogs and seeing the Iron Age living recreated. Very cool and lunch was HUGE sandwiches made on site and giant cookies! Good thing as we walked thru Dunkeld and the forest at the Hermitage before heading back to have beverages on our own at the hotel, before group dinner there. The hotel was nice and also remote which is why both nights we had group dinners both nights.

Thur.- Checking out (sad faces) and off to Edinburgh with a stop in some golf place LOL. The ruins of St. Andrews cathedral we cool as was the walk thru town to see some sights. Had a nice lunch at Criterion on our own and had some gelato at Jannetta’s Gelateria which had a line and deservedly so! Back aboard we crossed the Firth of Forth and made a pit stop to say good bye to our coach driver as he was just dropping us and the bags at the Wilde Aparthotel in Grassmarket - great location and was our least favorite hotel of the bunch - too modern and breakfast was scheduled as they had so many groups staying - as a plus there was a machine for those who needed to do some laundry. We did not use it. Took a walk that evening of the Georgian parts of Edinburgh and saw our first views of the castle on the hill. So tired we did not bother with finding dinner.

Fri - Before breakfast some of us went to Greyfriars Kirkyard and saw Bobby! Met our local guide for a walking tour of the Royal Mile and saw many “closes”, ending our walk with more walking at the Castle. Very cool spot, some folks got tired and did not stay after the tour portion. I stayed and saw the “jewels” , dog cemetery, and the chapel. Loved it all, and then headed to Grassmarket for a pint at the Bow Bar (fun pub)and then we had reservations at the World’s End pub- good thing as they were turning folks away. Yes, a bit touristy but loved it anyway. Heading back we stopped in for a pint at the Black Bull on Grassmarket.

Sat. - We did not go to Holyrood House as the General Session was happening so we went the HMY Britannia instead. If you go on the tour, I recommend going to see this in your free time! Was very interesting and they serve tea or lunch on board which is an experience in itself. We just had a coffee and roll as it was too early for lunch when we went. Back to town on the tram (guide explained how and gave us tickets) we wandered some more of the Mile, did some shopping and nearly ran into the Duke of Edinburgh as we left the White Hart pub (great bartenders there!). Really, we were so close to Prince Edward that I could have touched him. Being that close would never happen in the US. He did have loads of suits with him, who were watchful. That evening was our farewell dinner which was underwhelming as we sat at too many tables to readily chat with our new friends, and it was at a French restaurant-I was hoping for more traditional fare like we had at the tour start. Others may have enjoyed it more. YMMV. Many folks had early flights in the morning so missed seeing them.

Sun.- Tour over after breakfast. We went to Greyfriars and heard the choir practicing in the church that has stood for longer that the US has existed, wish we could have stayed for services but we were due for our flight to Copenhagen.

We are already booked for our next RS for Oct 2025 to Village Italy and we can't wait!

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468 posts

Wonderful trip report! Brought back so many memories of my 2009 trip to Scotland when I totally fell in love with it. Yes--I remember the White Hart pub. Had drinks there and took a photo of the sign over the street. What was the dog cemetery on the Royal Mile? Don't remember hearing about that. Actually trying to decide between RS Scotland and RS Ireland trips in the next couple years.

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158 posts

Dog cemetery is actually at Edinburgh Castle, if you go to the "overlook" facing the North Sea, it will be below you.

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627 posts

Bookmarking and loved every paragraph. Thanks so much for writing this up!

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3438 posts

I really enjoyed your trip report. We went to St. Andrews in September 2023 on a Rabbie's tour. Since it was Sunday, we were able to walk on the course, if not the greens. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed this.

I can't believe you were so close to Prince Edward - not my favorite Royal, but still way cool!

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4580 posts

Our coach driver was the same (Jimmy) with the addition that he was
super patient with drivers who could not quite figure out what to do
when confronted by the coach on a narrow road!

I had a chuckle on this one. To get to Clava Clairns you have to take a single track road with trees on either side-this was my first experience on single track. In the distance I could see a large truck coming toward me and I was getting really worried about how I was going to pull over to let it past. I was able to breathe a sigh of relief as it turned off before we had to cross paths.

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1637 posts

I had similar experiences on single track roads in Ireland. Ducking into a driveway was one escape.

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1 posts

Thank you for the great write-up. My wife and I are planning this for 2025, I am wavering on the eight or thirteen day RS Scotland. Any thoughts on the short vs. long tour?

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158 posts

Since I only did the 8 day, not really other than both go to essentially the same spots once you reach the midpoint of the longer tour. I think I may have enjoyed that one more just as it looks like there are some "smaller" locations, but did not have the vacation time to do that one this time....I am sure someone who has done the longer will chime in.