We just returned from 5 weeks in the UK ( mostly---there was a brief crossing to Paris to watch tennis at Roland Garros). Our last stop was Hadrian's Wall and I want to report on that for the benefit of those who only have time for a short visit.
We had one might to spend on our way between the Lake District ( three days of glorious weather and great hiking) and London for our flight home. We decided to use the time exploring Hadrian's Wall country.
Our hosts in the Lake District provided transport back to the Penrith train station at 9:30 am. We had tickets for the train from there to Carlisle and then on the little east-west train to Haltwhistle. However, on this day the first train was replaced by a bus. No problem; the bus got us to Carlisle in time for the two-car train that stops in Haltwhistle on its way to Newcastle.
I chose Haltwhistle for our overnight because . . . I was charmed by the name. Also by the fact that we could walk to Hadrian's Wall from there. I booked a room at Ashcroft House, a lovely bed and breakfast which is reasonably close to the train station. We had arranged to drop our bags off while we went out walking for the afternoon, but they actually had our room ready. Christine, the hostess, suggested we catch the AD 122 bus to Housestead and walk back (7.5 miles) instead of taking the time to walk to the Wall, but the schedule is such that this was not possible--- there is a gap between 1:00 and 4:00 or so. So we walked, a pleasant walk along a stream, but it was further than we thought--1.75 miles, not just 1. When we reached the wall we turned east and aimed for Steel Rigg, some 3 miles further. This is a great section of the wall---some of the original is still there---and the terrain is interesting ( as in up and down, not flat). You reach the highest point of the Wall on this section, and have some great views.
We reached Steel Rigg with ten minutes left to run down the road to Once Brewed to catch the 16:44 bus back to Haltwhistle. Once there we stopped in the Coop store to buy bread and cheese for a snack, and a bottle of wine to enjoy on the balcony of our room. It was lovely sitting out there and listening to the birds---mostly doves. After an hour of relaxing and a quick shower, we perused some menus and chose an Indian restaurant for our dinner. The food was well-prepared and nicely spiced, not swimming in sauce but just right. And so inexpensive we thought they must have forgotten to charge us for our wine, but it actually was on the bill--£44 for two main dishes, vegetables, rice, pappadams and naan, plus wine. Our least expensive meal of the trip, and one we thoroughly enjoyed.
After a hearty breakfast, not the "full English" which was on offer but much more than we can eat, we packed our bags and left them at the house while we went out for more Hadrian's Wall. We had until our 1 pm train to explore. We decided to maximize our wall time by taking the AD 122 bus to Housesteads and back. The return ticket for two of us---senior rate---was £18.
Housesteads is the remains of a Roman fort, with a museum and explanatory signs---well worth a visit to appreciate what effort went into building and maintaining the wall, as well as learning what life was like back then ( I love that stuff). You can walk among the ruins but there is little left above ground. It was cold and windy there, but we spent a good two hours before returning to the parking lot to catch the bus back to Haltwhistle. We arrived in good time to retrieve our bags, stop in the Coop to buy something for lunch, and head to the lonely platform to await the train to Newcastle.
All in we had 24 hours here, and made the best of it. We were fortunate with the weather---at this time southern England was getting hammered with rain. We loved seeing the Wall and walking alongside for a few miles, but learned that we need not plan on walking the length. I think we saw the best part.