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Greenland and Iceland August 2025

This was the best trip! We have been to Iceland many times, but this was our first to Greenland. Warning, it is long:)

Friday August 15 we drove to our daughters to drop our dogs. Took an Uber to SEA. The lounges were mobbed, so we opted for a regular restaurant near our gate. We saw the aurora from the plane at about 3am!

Landed at KEF on Saturday August 16th and had just over an hour layover until the Greenland flight, so we shared a famous Icelandic hot dog.

Flight to Greenland was uneventful until we arrived. My husband's bag did not make it. While he went to the Icelandair desk to inquire, I found Claus, the owner of the apartment we were staying at and he was there to pick us up. When he heard about the bag, he went over to help. The airline said it would arrive the next day.

The apartment was well appointed and had a separate kitchen/dining area, which was nice so one of us could continue to sleep while the other ws up making coffee etc. Claus showed us everything in the apartment and told us of a few places to go as well as a shortcut down the steep hill to the grocery store.

We walked down the hill and bought groceries and tried to buy a shirt and a pair of underwear to get my hsusband through.

Next to the grocery stores was the Hangout Bistro, where we got a late lunch/early dinner. My hsuband had the cheeseburger and I had the steak. Both were fine, nothing really to write home about. We dropped the groceries at the apartment and headed over towards the water and hiked the yellow trail which is about 4 miles. Stunning! The massive iceberg's were right in your face!

We were tired so went to bed at 5pm, but woke up at 10pm and walked over to the Icefjord Center which was about 10 minutes from the apartment. We walked along the boardwalk until it ended and then continued on the trail. Gorgeous sunset there looking out over the glaciers. On the way up to the Icefjord Center, you pass quite a few dog sled facilities, so there were many, many dogs. The younger ones are not on chains so run free and will approach you, but you are not to interact with them at all.

We walked back to the apartment and again saw the beautiful sunset over water with the icebergs. We dropped inot bedd around 12:30am.

Sunday August 17
Walked down to the harbor to meet our guide, Jan, who was taking us to Eqi Glacier. Weather was not good and there was much ice, so we had to skirt the shore for most of the way. This was the choppiest boat ride I had ever been on. We saw a number of whales and many huge icebergs. Once we neared the glacier the weather turned and it was sunny and beautiful. The glacier was stunning with the sunlight. It calved around 8 or 9 times, nothing all that big, but enough to be exciting. The guide provided lunch, which was bagel sandwiches filled with chicken salad that had peas and corn in it. Sounds odd, but was not terrible. On the way back to Ilulissat the weather was better so we were able to sail through the main fjord and see more of the big icebergs. When we arrived back in the harbor we headed back to our apartment, but stopped at Inuit Cafe for dinner. We had the reindeer and the musk ox and shared. Both were very good! We called the airline and were told they do not fly to Ilulissat on Sundays, so we needed to buy more basics for my hsuband. Most stores were closed on Sunday though, so it was grocery store underwear, socks, long johns and a shirt. That was all we could scrounge up. We packed up this evening as we were heading to Disko Island in the morning.

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Monday August 18
Claus arranged a taxi for us to take us to the harbor to take the Disko Line boat over to Disko Island for two days. We could not call a taxi because it is app based and you have to have a local phone number, so there was no way around it. Claus was wonderful and arranged several taxis for us during our stay.

We arrived at the harbor and were told the captain called in sick. About 30 minutes later they found a relief captain and we were on our way. Beautiful weather on the water and we saw so many massive icebergs!

Arrived at Disko Island, and there is a Bowhead Whale jaw bone at the dock that you walk through to enter the town. It is supposed to bring you good luck if you walk under it, so we did. Our hotel was there with a vehicle to take our luggage up to the hotel. The town is only 800 people, so quite small, which meant a very short walk to get to the hotel. We checked in and thankfully our room was ready. We dropped our bags, wandered the town, and tried to find some swim trunks for my hsuband so we could do the sauna and cold plunge. There is one store in town, and they had no concept of what shorts were. I was getting good at pantomime, lol. We searched for anything, to no avail. The store was interesting. One area was school supplies, with the hunting rifles right next to the kiddie backpacks, and then the fresh produce were on the other side of the rifles. The "fresh produce" was slim pickings, but for them that is all they get. They can go 2 months without getting any as they are so remote

In the afternoon we did a walking tour of the town. It is tiny. The school only has 109 students from kindergarten through 10th grade, at which point students have to go to Nukk for the last couple of years of schooling. There is a dentist, and one doctor. The doctor is not permanent but rather they get random ones from Denmark who will come for a week, or a month, however long they want to stay. There are two police officers. The homes in the center of towns have regular toilets, but the ones on the perimeter do not, so those houses have bags to collect the waste, and then once a week they put those bags in a black box in front and it gets collected. The guide also showed us the angelica plant, which people from Ilulissat come over just to pick. She said her favorite thing to do with it is just dip it in sugar and eat it. It is often made into tea as well as seasoning.

One interesting fact about Greenland is that nobody owns any land. You can build a house and own the home, but you do not own the land that the home is on. On Disko Island, most people built their homes themselves.

There is one store that has handmade items. I found a few things there, including tea that the proprietor makes herself. She gathers and dries the leaves of various plants and makes her own concoctions. The store is only open from 3-5 and then again from 8-10pm, so you have to make a point of when to go or you wiwll be otu of luck.

We had lunch back at our hotel. It was fish 'n chips that was probably the best we have ever had!

There is a museum in town which was quite interesting. The man that we first talked to as we entered asked us where we were from. When we said the US, he shook his head and said "we are so, so, so sorry". He said it with a smile on his face, so no matter what your political stance is, it was funny how he said it.

There is a small black sand beach in town, and the mammoth icebergs are just off of that. The beach has a lot of "diamonds" (small icebergs) that have washed up on shore. Watching those at high tide was quite impressive to see how far they can move.

Dinner was at the hotel restaurant, the only one in town. The food was excellent! They are famous for their snow crab, which is caught right there in Disko Bay. We had that plus reindeer and shared.

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Tuesday August 19
We headed out to go hike Kuannit. It starts next to the soccer field, which is right by the shore so you see the massive icebergs from the field. We headed towards the trail, hiked down to the water, crossed a very narrow bridge, hiked back up and then at the junction we took the red trail. Route finding was a bit tough on that one, but it was stunning. We were the only people on that trail. You go along a canyon and then run into a beautiful waterfall and river, and then it takes you up over to the yellow trail which is the easier trail and is closer to the water. Once on that trail, you can see the icebergs down below. Weather started out crummy. Our faces were getting pelted with rain that was very cold and coming down sideways, but right straight into our faces. By the time we got to the yellow trail, the weather was beautiful! The hike was about 6.5 miles.

On our way back we stopped at the black sand beach and I let some of mom's ashes go there. She would have loved the icebergs there.

When we returned to the hotel, we had coffee and shared a slice of rhubarb cake. Down near the dock there were several people selling their handmade items. Cash only, and none of them spoke English. I bought two knit headbands. The lady and I could not understand each other, but we laughed and somehow got through it and then she gave me a big hug.

Then it was time to take the Disko Line back to Ilulissat. As we got close, we had to go straight through the icefjords, which was quite unnerving. Hearing the crushing of the ice from the boat, and the boat skirting the chunks of ice, we were very happy to make it back to the harbor. My husband commented that he spent an entire career avoiding the ice, and there we were literally surrounded by it.

Once back in Ilulissat, we took a taxi back to the same apartment we had a few days ago. We stopped at the Hangout Bistro and ordered a pizza to take with us for dinner, and we did a quick grocery run for breakfast items. Skyr of course and some fruit.

Wednesday August 20
In the morning we walked to the downtown area and found our guide for kayaking. We kayaked in the icefjord, amongst all those massive icebergs! Words cannot possibly describe it. One lady was from Boston and we hit it off. At one point we all stopped our kayaks and gathered together for some hot cider and just then we saw a golden eagle on top of one of the icebergs. I got my phone ready for video and waited, and got him as he flew off. Gorgeous!

The last few days my hsuband kept talking with Icelandair and they said they would hold the bag in KEF until we returned on Friday evening. After kayaking though, we checked the airtag and it said it was at Ilulissat so we had the taxi take us there. Success! Although they said the bag was in some storage area at the far end of the airfield, my hsuband kept showing the man the airtag location and finally he relented and they went back into the terminal and sure enough, there it was just sitting in an unsecured area. The taxi waited for us, and even turned the meter off for time that my hsuband spent inside, which was very kind.

We grocery shopped for our next two dinners. Google translate was our friend. We ended up with reindeer and muskox, potatoes, and frozen mixed vegetables. It was nice to be able to cook in the apartment and not have to eat out. Lunch on this day was shared fish n chips from a food truck in downtown.

Later this evening we did a midnight iceberg boat tour with Claus. We were VERY happy to finally have our waterproof insulated pants back in our possession! It was still light out this time of year, and the lighting with the icebergs was stunning. Claus drove us back to the apratment around 1am.

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Thursday August 21
Today was a free day so we wandered the town and visited the various shops and scenic areas. We went to the Icefjords Center, which was very well done. After that we walked on the boardwalk out to the icefjord again. My hsuband caught something out of the corner of his eye, and it was an arctic fox. The fox came running straight to us, and at the last minute stopped, crossed the boardwalk and then ran up onto the rocks on the mountain side. We continued on to get to the trail and get as close as we could to the icebergs. On the way back, we ran into our new Boston friend and her dad.

Friday August 22
Our last day in Ilulissat so we walked back towards the water to the yellow trail. We walked a bit of it and just enjoyed the views. On the way back down, just as we were coming down the stairs, we hear a "No freakin way!". Boston girl again, lol, with her mom and dad. Big hugs all around. At this point we all agree we need a photo together.

Taxi back to the airport. We used the find my phone app to make sure our bags were loaded onto the plane. Our flight was supposed to be direct to KEF, but we had to do a 45 minute detour to Kangerlussuaq for refueling. This meant we arrived into KEF 90 minutes later than planned, so we missed our dinner reservation at Messinn wwhich is our favorite place in town The next day was Culture Night, so most roads around downtown were closed. Our taxi driver had a heck of a time finding open roads to get us to our hotel, which was in the main plaza. He was so nice and turned off the meter at $180 (22,300), where a normal ride into town runs about $150. IIf he would have kept the meter running it would easily have been a $250 ride, at least.

We got dropped at Center Hotel Plaza. Restaurants are closed by the time we arrive, so we hit the hot dog stand which is open until an hour after the bars close, which is around 5am.. On the way back, the gelato place next door to the hotel was open so we stopped there for a treat and then went to the hotel and crashed for the night.

Saturday August 23
With Culture Night, there was a marathon that morning. We stopped at the new Braud location close to the hotel. It was not good, the 3 things we got were not thoroughly cooked, so more like dough balls and the coffee was terrible. This was not the Braud that we have loved over the years, so may well stick to the original location next time. We walked up the rainbow road and had it to ourselves. Then to Reykjavik Roasters for decent coffee.

Taxi to the REY airport to get to Akureyri. We used Europecar/Holdur for the vehicle and it was excellent. It was a white Duster, and even had a cargo cover in it. We first went to the Christmas House, about 10 minutes away. It was a hot day and we were in short sleeve shirts, which is a rare thing in Iceland! Then we headed to Kidagil Guesthouse, about an hour away. It is on a dirt road for 20km. The rooms in the main area have shared baths,but we were in the house in the back so our room had a private bath. Simple, but comfortable. We continued on down the dirt road for another 25 minutes or so, until it became an F road. We continued and finally arrived at Aldeyjarfoss. Along the road you have to open/close two cattle gates.Two people were leaving as we arrived, so we had it to ourselves. Gorgeous waterfall with stunning basalt columns. I was really missing my hiking poles for the trail as it was quite steep and with the small rocks it was easy to slip. We then headed back to Kidagil and had dinner there. A burger and lamb. The burger was good, but the lamb was overcooked a bit. We had the guesthouse do a load of laundry for us, which was only 2500kr, roughly $20, for wash/dry. It was ready first thing in the morning.

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Sunday August 24
Today was a road trip. We started out at Godafoss and had it almost to ourselves. The next stop was the Krafla Endless Shower which is by the power plant. It sits out by itself and is a continuous geothermal shower. Grjotagja Cave was the next stop. We were the only people here. It is an ancient lava cave with a geothermal spring. You take a steep staircase down into the canyon and then there are caves all around. The next stop was Dettifoss, on the west side. We had been to the east side on a prior trip. The west side is far busier, and I think the views from the east side are better, but you do have good views of Selfoss from the west. After that we continued up to Husavik. We had lunch at Salka, sharing the seafood soup and cod. We had to check out the Ja Ja Ding Dong bar, and the church, both from the Eurovision movie. We went whale watching with Gentle Giants in a rib boat. That was so much fun!!! We were bundled up in 5 layers! We saw so many whales! The guide was great at making sure each side of the rib boat got to see the whales, and he provided a lot of information.

After this we headed to GeoSea to soak. It was nice, a touch crowded but not bad. It is an infinity lagoon over the fjord and very relaxing. We had been there before so knew what to expect.

Then we headed back to the Husavik harbor and had dinner at Gamli Baukur which was next door to Gentle Giants. We had the plokfiskur and the arctic char, and then shared a chocolate cake with fresh whipped cream and raspberries for dessert. Seriously the best chocolate cake we have ever had!

We had an hour drive to get back to Kidagil.

Monday August 25
Today was a drive around the Trollaskagi Peninsula. We skipped the one lane (toll) tunnel that we had been taking and missed road 84, accidentally taking the dirt road that parallelled it. It was scenic though. Our first stop was Hauganes hot pots. It was 2500kr pp, and well worth it! We had the place to ourselves. The owner was super nice! There are 3 hot tubs as well as a boat that was turned into a hot tub, and then the cold plunge is in the fjord. We both did that a couple times. The changing rooms and the showers wwere spotless. As we were leaving, there were many people walking in, so our timing was perfect

We walked across from the parking spots to a fish market/artisan market. I found a few gifts there and the artist was on site, so that was fun to chat with her.

After that we headed north towards Dalvik. On a side road, we were trying to find a certain waterfall that is not well known at all. I thought I saw it, but there was a big farm in front of it. We saw a dirt road next to that, and thought it skirted the farm so we headed up. Very quickly we realized it was the farm's driveway, so we started to back out, but in doing so the farmer and his daughter rode up alongside on a quad. We explained and apologized profusely, and the owner was so kind and invited us up. More of the family came out to meet us, and their 3 dogs came running. We chatted with the family for quite some time and they invited us to go hike up to the waterfall from their property. Their dogs came with us, and the family trusted us to open/close the cattle gates. We spent much more time here than we would have anticipated, and it was a definite highlight meeting the family and being welcomed on to their farm.

In Siglufjordur, many restaurants were closed, but the Harbor House was open for lunch. There are only 3 things on the menu, so we shared the cod and seafood soup. Very nice owner, and she does everything there herself. We kept on driving and our next stop was the oldest church in Iceland, Grafarkirkja. It is a turf church and one of the 6 remaining turf churches in the country. Once again our timing was excellent and we were the only people here.

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Our next stop was Fosslaug. We did not anticipate how busy this would be. Parking was 1500 kr, about $12. So many people, but we hiked down about 15 minutes to the falls and they were beautiful. They looked like a mini Dynjandi. We did not soak in the hot river on the other side of it as there were just too many people.

Our next stop was Forest Lagoon in Akureyri. Beautiful! I had an adult krap, which was a blue raspberry slushi with lemonade and vodka. The lagoon was very large and had a hot pool as well as cold plunge and sauna. Trees are not native to Iceland, so when this was built they planted trees surrounding it which was very pretty.

Dinner was burgers from a food cart in the parking lot, called Bessa Biti. Very good!

Back to Kidagil and packed up.

Tuesday August 26
At the roundabout where the tunnel begins is a hot river that comes out of a culvert. We stopped there to check it out after seeing a man in there in his shorts the day before. Then to the Akureyri Botanical Gardens. It was a beautiful day and the gardens were stunning. After that we headed to the airport and turned the car in and flew to Reykjavik.

When we arrived in Reykjavik, we took a taxi to Blue Rental Car in town and picked up another white Duster. The Blue experience was much better than the last time, but the bar was pretty low from that experience. The car was very clean, was what we reserved, had low mileage, and the lady in the office was very friendly. The lot where the cars were parked was well organized. This location has the KEF location beat by a mile in customer service.

We drove basically across the street to the home store where I quickly chose/purchased new duvet covers while my hsuband hit Kronan for some drinks for in the car. Several years ago on one of our trips here, we bought duvets. Now I buy new covers there since they are not sizes you can find in the US.

Then we headed up to Hvammsvik Hot Springs. The wind was whipping, but it was not cold. The water in the pools though was being blown all over. As usual Hvammsvik was perfect. The drive back was even windier, and at one point the car was blown a few feet, but thankfully not off the road. We drove to Grindavik as our stay was at the Northern Light Inn tonight. Shortly before arriving, you could see the new lava that had covered the road in the November 2024 eruption. We were able to stop and see where it stopped, covering the road, which was quite shocking to see first hand. There were signs saying to not walk on the lava, but of course a few people climbed up, actually right smack next to the signs. Sheesh!

Then we drove just a bit further to the Northern Light Inn and got settled. We have stayed here a few times before, and it never disappoints. Dinner was at Max's, their restaurant, and everything there was perfection.

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Wednesday August 27
Stopped to top off the gas tank, then returned the car to Blue.

At the airport, the kiosks were not working for Icelandair, so we had to go to the desk. There was no line, and the agent was great. I needed to check an extra bag, which I knew cost extra, but she did not charge me. I asked several times, and she sent us on our way. Security was quick so they had no need for a separate line for Saga passengers. We waited for a lull at Passport Control and headed to the D gates where all the flights to the US fly out of. We happened to be walking by when they announced for people to line up, so we were 2nd and 3rd in line for boarding. The flight was not full at all, as there were 18 empty rows! So many of us took a whole row to ourselves and spread out. This made the long flight much more bearable.

Arrival at SEA was at the A gates, so we did not have to deal with the crazy vertical escalator. We grabbed our checked bags, headed to the Global Entry area, looked into the machine and were on our way out. My husband had a driver take him home as he had meetings, but I took an Uber to our daughters and stayed there overnight to get over jetlag, then drove home in the morning with the dogs

Even though we have been to Iceland many times, this entire trip was one of the best, especially the Greenland part. Can't wait for the next trip back!

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This was our packing list.

Wore on Plane:
Lowa hiking boots
Point 6 socks
Fleece leggings
Pink quarter zip
OR Aspire jacket
Wool hat/Marmot gloves in my day pack

Some of my things were in my husbands bag:
My rain pants (never needed)
My heavier insulated/waterproof pants
My puffer (never needed)
2 quick dry swim towels

In my bag:
3 pair wool socks/liners
1 pair puma short socks
1 pair Point 6 socks
12 pair underwear
2 bras
1 pair fleece leggings
2 pair quick dry hiking pants
Icelandic wool sweater
2 Bombas long sleeve merino wool tops (pink and gray)
1 gray technical shirt
1 short sleeve shirt
1 thermal top
2 thermal bottoms, Cuddleduds
1 casual long sleeve top for dinners out
1 swimsuit
Extra waterproof gloves (did not use)
Neck buff (did not use)
Sun bucket hat (did not use)
Sunglasses
Toiletries
Waterproof phone pouch
Phone lanyard
Selfi-Tripod (never used)
Lidocaine patches
Scopalamine patches
Meds (OTC and RX)
Icelandic and Danish Currency
Phone/watch chargers and brick
On Cloud waterproof sneakers
A LeSportsac Weekender bag to bring things home
Cotopaxi fanny pack
Mosquito head net (did not use)

The thermal top was too warm for sleeping so I bought a t-shirt for that.

My husband's bag was delayed for 5 days so we bought underwear, socks, a shirt, thermal bottoms and a toothbrush to get by.

My Rick Steve's 21" rolling bag weighed a total of 18.6 pounds. It had to be checked as the weight limit for flights to Greenland was 13#. Also took a kiddie suitcase that only had our sneakers in there, and that was a carryon. We each had our hiking day pack with us. My husband had the bulky DSLR camera in his. In mine I had all our paperwork, my wallets/passport, orange bag full of chargers etc, toothbrush, extra underwear, hair brush and water bottle.

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A few things I forgot to add. At KEF security, the agent commented that she loved my LeSportsac Weekender bag. It is a navy blue with tiny flowers all over it. I love that it weighs next to nothing so is perfect for an extra bag coming home. The security at KEF has always been very friendly, even when I have had my bag pulled aside to look at something.

Also, our dinner at NLI was a bit of a splurge. I had a glass of rhubarb schnapps, which is local, and then we shared one bruschetta and the seafood soup, and then I had the lamb fillet and my husband had the salmon. We did not even consider dessert as we were stuffed. Everything was absolutely perfect! NLI also has a lounge room with lots of cozy chairs, blankets, a fireplace, and honesty bar and lots of games and puzzles. It is a great place to just relax.

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Although Greenland is not in my travel plans, I enjoyed your report. The scenery sounds stunning.

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Great report, Greenland sounds amazing. And how cool you saw an arctic fox!

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One thing I failed to note is the flights in/out of Greenland are often delayed/cancelled. We lucked out though! However several months ago Icelandair changed our return flight and we lost a day there. When coming/going from Greenland you really need to have a buffer because of weather. We made sure our reservations were all refundable etc so that if we could not get back to Iceland on our planned day that we would not have a mess to sort out. There is a new nonstop flight from the US to Nukk, but Nukk has more weather delays/cancellations than Ilulissat, so that was one reason we chose this area. Plus, the big icebergs were the draw for us.

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Thank you for the detailed write-up! Enjoyed it very much!

How did you find the accommodation on Greenland?