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Greece - Athens and Peloponnese June July 2026

We traveled as a party of 5 adults (my sister, husband, daughter, and nephew) in late June/early July. The most helpful resources for planning were Matt Barrett’s online guide and Facebook community, and Rick Steves’ Greece guide and the forum on his site. I also used the Lonely Planet Greece guide. We had an absolutely wonderful time and I wish I could return right now!
General itinerary: I met my sister in Athens for a few days first as she had never been. Athens 2 days, 3 nights, Rafina port (to meet the rest of our party that was arriving late at night) 1 night. Then rented a car at the airport, drove to Nafplion via Corinth (Nafplion 3 nights), Selinitsa near Gytheio (3 nights), drove to Kalamata where my sister departed early and we stayed 2 nights, late flight from Kalamata to London, overnight London then home. Most of us flew from Seattle via Rome as Alaska airlines has a nonstop to Rome, then Aegean from Rome to Athens. Flight home was British Airways Kalamata to London, the Alaska Air from London to Seattle.
I am going to summarize some recommendations and tips rather than give a day by day.

Athens – Athens Walking Tours First Access Tour of the Acropolis, with tickets. This was totally worth it – the guides show up early and get in line so that we were among the first people at the site when it opened. It was cooler in the morning and much less crowded. Guide was very knowledgeable and tour company well organized. And I didn’t have to worry about trying to keep going on the official site for tickets when they opened up. Acropolis Museum is also wonderful and place to cool down after the tour. We bought our own tickets and toured the Agora the next morning, using Rick Steves’ audio tour that I downloaded free in advance. We were confused with the audio tour for awhile because the main entrance/exit to the Agora was closed and we had come in a different entrance. Nice arts/crafts sold by small vendors with street booths on the way back to the Plaka. Hotel Athens Capital Center for was very nice and well located near Syntagma Square. Easy walking to sightseeing, shopping and restaurants and excellent buffet breakfast. My sister used her credit cards points for the room. Best meal: Sabbas (Savvas) restaurant near Monastiraki Square. So delicious and the waiter helped us decide what to try. The Kesaria pie (Pastourmali) is absolutely delicious. Also, generally, we found we liked restaurants that offered house wine in a carafe and had lots of Greek people. Mona Lisa gelato is also great. Tips: 1. Using Uber for a taxi was easy and convenient – no need to book in advance. 2. It is very hot during the day in Athens in June. Due to jet lag and the heat we returned to our hotel in the middle of the day to to rest in the A/C. 3. Wear shoes with a nonskid sole. The streets/paths are very slippery at some of the ancient sites. 4. People wear linen here for a good reason. 5. Subway is clean and easy to use but if doesn’t have elevator/escalator at every entrance. We had to carry our luggage down many steps but once there it was easy to take it to the airport and seemed very safe. However, I do live in the city and regularly use public transportation.

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Rafina: We stayed here because the rest of our party was arriving late night from the US to meet us. Hotel Avra has good food, a nice breakfast and great views of the port. We enjoyed the amazing sight of huge ferries pulling up and backing in to the docks in very close quarters. Best meal: Kavouria tou Asimaki, in the group of restaurants near the ferry dock. The seafood was fresh and spectacular! Tips: We used Uber from airport because shuttle only comes once per hour, but it was very useful to take back to airport in the morning to rent our car. Then we could drive around Athens on our way to the Peloponnese. There is a big discount grocery store nearby and we were glad we bought a case of big bottles of water to have in the car. We rented from Hertz and had to get a van to fit 5 adults. The fee to drop off in Kalamata was very high but I still think it was worth it.

Nafplion: Definitely stop at the Corinth canal bridge, Ancient Corinth and Akrocorinth on your way. These are all amazing and easy to navigate. We could not get to the top of Akrocorinth because the site was closing at 3:30 pm – it was too steep and hot anyway but what we were able to climb to was beautiful and worth it. Also, Restaurant Marinos was lovely. Recommendations: Pensione Marianna. We had stayed there 14 years ago when the kids were much younger and wanted to return. Wonderful and run by the nicest people! You must be able to walk up and down lots of stairs but the views are worth it! And you can walk down the hill to Arvanitia beach or to the town. Tour of Ancient Mycenae with Elias Papadapoulos. I cannot recommend him highly enough – much better than reading a guide or an audio tour. He is wonderfully knowledgeable. He also referred us to Christos & Maria Didaskalou of Tours & Transfers. Although we had a car, we didn’t want to drive back from wine tasting. Christos told us about the sights we passed on our way to Mycenae and they arranged our wine tasting at Koroniotis as well as a lunch in a tasty local restaurant afterwards. Our tour at Koroniotis was so special – we were the only party there and the winemaker himself took us to the vineyard and sat with us talking about the wines. They also offered foods to taste with each different wine. We learned a lot, had a wonderful time, and were very glad not to be driving ourselves! We loved hanging out at Arvanitia beach enjoying swimming, eating, and drinking local wine and just walking around Nafplion seeing the sights. Kastro Karimo and Wild Duck restaurants have great food. We also bought pastries and a birthday cake at Central Bakery – delicious!

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Gytheio / Selenitsa: We found a lovely house through VRBO and enjoyed just relaxing. We drove to the beach rather than trying to walk because it was so hot. We needed our bottled water – there was one source of filtered water in the house but the rest was not potable. I would definitely return to this area to spend more time at the beach and sightseeing in Gytheio. Recommendations: Drive to Sparta on the old highway. Visited the farmers market in Argos thanks to Christos’ recommendation – this is not a tourist market, but a place where locals actually shop. We bought too much produce! Ardamis Resturant & Café in Karyes on our way from Nafplio to Gytheio. This was a time that Google maps got confused and took us on an unnecessary road to get there. There was no menu – the waiter told us what they had cooked that day, and we ordered. The food was delicious though and we were able to buy some local products. House of Mosaics mosaic making class in Sparta. Dimitra the artist/owner taught us how to make our own small rock mosaics while we enjoyed her lovely garden and just talked with her. The 20-something kids thought this was one of the best things we did on our trip. We all enjoyed it and treasure the keepsakes we created there. We lunched at a local restaurant Dimitra recommended and it was great. I wish I had scheduled more time for Sparta. I had originally planned for us to tour Mystras before our class, but the kids weren’t feeling up to it. Next time!

Drive to Kalamata via the coast: This is beautiful and worth the drive. It is very curvy – one of the kids got nauseous even though she doesn’t usually get car sick. Take your time. Stopped in Kardamyli and walked around – this is a friendly, scenic town with some cute shops. We had a delicious lunch with a view of the water at a family restaurant called Psaras which I think is in Rick's guidebook. Have the local cheese grilled with herbs!

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Kalamata: The guide books are mixed on this city but we all loved it. We loved Ancient Messene – it is absolutely amazing! I wish I had hired a guide. At Kalamata Port we ate at a restaurant that might translate to Golden Salt – no English menu. The food was incredible, especially the salad with local figs and cheese and the grilled peppers. It’s across from Hotel Ostia. The best thing we did – food tour with Mamas Flavours. Maria took us to local places to introduce us to local products which we learned about and got to try from black raisins to olive oils to traditional Greek coffee. She tailored our tour to fit our time frame and spoke about Kalamata sights that we passed on our walk. At the end, we had an included lunch at a local restaurant with traditional dishes that we would not have known to order and which were amazing. I wish we had started our trip with this tour rather than having it on our last day. Maria is wonderful and if you are in Kalamata and you like food you need to give yourself plenty of time and do this! Tips: We stayed at Pharae Palace which was a very nice hotel with a view of the water and is well located for sightseeing around the harbor. Next time I’d consider staying nearer to the center where there are more shops and less touristy restaurants, but on the other hand the views are great at the port and there are plenty of yummy places to eat. Kalamata airport is very small and easy. Note that there is no place to charge your phone and not much space for waiting so you probably do not want to go 3 hours in advance. They would not accept our cardboard boxes of wine – even though the winery had packed them with bubble wrap – so at the last minute we bought suitcases and some packs of diapers at a nearby grocery store and packed them that way. They survived intact all the way to Seattle!

Big takeaway: Although I loved all of the places we went, I would slow down, visit fewer places and spend more time there. We missed Mystras for example because some of our group was feeling under the weather that morning and we didn't have space in our schedule to revamp and go a different day. We didn't go to Lemini for sea turtle viewing or the Caves of Diros. The summer heat, the time difference - I found that we could do less than we planned because we were just hot and tired at times. We didn't take the coast road from Nafplio to Githeio as I had planned because we wanted to spend more time in the place rather than driving by a place and staying for a brief time. Also, local tours are worth the money. I got so much more out of the tours with an actual person than from reading info from a book, even though I really love Rick and have used his guides since 1991. His info is great for planning and orientation, but I would definitely hire guides for all the ancient sites next time. Also, eat a places with Greek people and wine in a carafe on the menu. And, greet people around you and strike up conversations. I am an introvert so this is hard for me, and we don't say hi to people we don't know in Seattle, but every time I did talk with someone there I was happy I had. I hope this is helpful to someone else. I love reading Forum reports.