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Greece, Albania, and North Macedonia with OAT

I went to these three Balkan countries with Overseas Adventure Travel in October/November. It was my fifth OAT tour (and counting; I leave on #6 in 2 weeks, and I have four scheduled for next year).

I preceded the trip with eleven days in Rome, but I'll write that trip report separately. And rather than doing a day-by-day rundown, I'm going to talk about the highlights.

The pre-trip extension started in Athens. I did enjoy wandering through Plaka (the old town) in spite of the plethora of souvenir shops. The Acropolis was impressive in spite of the crowds. The Acropolis Museum (https://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/) is a good place to see the few things that aren't in the British Museum. Sorry, I exaggerate. The collection is impressive, and the museum is laid out and presented effectively, so it didn't feel too crowded. I went to a show on my second (last) night in Athens. It was called "Medea and Other Friends I Made in Athens" and I saw signs for it all over. The audience as a whole seemed to enjoy it. I would give it two stars out of five. It could have been funny or brilliant or tragic, but it tried to be all those things and fell short of all of them.

After Athens we flew to Chania and spent four nights on Crete, two in Chania and two in Heraklion, so sticking pretty much to the north coast of the island. I really enjoyed the Botanical Gardens (https://www.botanical-park.com/). We also stopped for lunch in a ghost town called Achlada. Pretty much everyone who lived there has moved away, but there is a very nice eatery, and it was fun walking through the deserted village. There are signs that people are returning, probably scooping up the ruined structures at a bargain to turn them into vacation rentals.

Knossos was educational but I was bothered by the careless way it was restored, without much attention paid to authenticity. I guess that's a kind of approach that was more common in the late 19th and early 20th centuries than it would be today.

From there we flew to Thessaloniki. The city pretty much burned down in 1917, and what was rebuilt is pretty ugly, but there are a few pockets of delight. The waterfront walk and the upper town where the original walls are still standing are worth a short visit. The market is also fabulous, with some amazing selections of olives and traditional Greek pastries.

On our way to Meteora we stopped at Aigai to visit the Royal Tombs (https://www.aigai.gr/en/polycentric-museum-of-aigai-royal-tombs-display-of-treasures/visit). This was one of the real highlights of the entire trip. There are three tombs, only one of which was plundered, and the treasures are displayed magnificently. It was truly stunning.

We also stopped for a short hike at Mount Olympus. I didn't encounter any gods or goddesses there, but a nice dog accompanied us on our hike.

Meteora was another highlight. I read that the next edition of the RS Greece guidebook will include Meteora. I can only wonder why it's never been included before. It's a magical and spiritual place even without the monasteries.

We stopped for lunch in Metsovo on our way to our next destination. The views here are stunning, the town is pleasant, and there's a small art museum (https://www.averoffmuseum.gr/en) with a surprisingly good collection of Greek painting and sculpture, mostly from the 19th and 20th centuries. I say surprisingly because it was all artists I'd never heard of, and it's hidden away in this little town.

(Continued in comments)

Posted by
1917 posts

After Metsovo we traveled to Zagori, where we spent two nights in the village of Aristi. This was another big thrill. What a spectacular place to get away and enjoy the outdoors. There are 46 villages in this UNESCO-listed area, and they are connected with stone paths that make for amazing hikes. And driving between them is also a feast for the eyes. In addition to a really enjoyable hike, we had a boat ride on the Voidomatis River. Just lovely!

Our last stop in Greece was for lunch in Ioannina. We had time to walk around and explore, and it's worth a couple of hours.

Then we headed to Gjirokaster, Albania, where we spent three nights. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with an impressive castle looming overhead and a very pleasant old town with shops selling lots of souvenirs, many of which are hand-made local crafts, so not your typical t-shirt and coffee mug places. We did OAT's standard "A Day in the Life," visiting a farmer and his family. And we took a day trip to Butrint, with some impressive ruins from ancient Greek and Roman eras.

Next was Tirana, with with a stop along the way at Berat. We visited the Onufri National Iconographic Museum. The collection was quite impressive, even though I'm not a big fan of Byzantine religious art. The castle itself wasn't much to see, but I enjoyed the views, especially the 1001 windows.

I did really like Tirana. I wrote about it as a city that is "becoming." It is growing out of its repressive Communist past and rising skyward with some interesting architecture. At the same time, it remembers its horrific past with a number of museums where you can learn about how dangerous, paranoid leaders behave in order to stay in power (as Enver Hokha did for 40 years).

Our next stop was Ohrid, North Macedonia, a delightful lakeside town with the kind of narrow streets you just want to wander around and get lost in. We visited some very special churches there with extraordinarily expressive frescoes that predate the Italian Renaissance and seem to foreshadow it.

Our final stop was Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia. This was a city that I found myself amused by more than anything. Something like 80% of the city was destroyed by a 1963 earthquake, and the rebuilding that went on at the time was mostly brutalist. Starting about 15 years ago the city undertook an effort to become more "classical." They updated facades and added new buildings in a neo-classical style, and they erected some ridiculously oversized statues of a "Warrior King" and a "Hero on a Horse." No doubt these were Philip and Alexander, but because of the agreement with Greece that forced the country to change its name to "North Macedonia," They had to remove all references to Macedonian heroes who were, in truth, Greek. That part of the experience was also amusing. Our Greek tour leader and our Macedonian local guide got into a couple of heated arguments.

At the end of the tour, I went to Naxos for four nights of relaxation and solitude. I stayed in Naxos Town and took an eBike tour and a car tour to see a good portion of the island. Oh, how beautiful it is! Sadly, it's also pretty brown, as they haven't had much rain. It was also pretty empty, and a lot of things were closed for the season, But I enjoyed the quiet and the chance to just be there.

I did a lot of writing and took a lot of pictures. PM me if you want to read or see.

Posted by
5360 posts

Thanks, Lane, I'm scheduled for this tour next spring and appreciate your summary.

I will be on this tour during Greek Orthodox Easter in 2025 - I thought we would be in Ohrid, though I also thought it was for the day in the life event, which you mention as being in Girokaster. I'll have to go back and look at the itinerary.

Posted by
4799 posts

Lane, your report makes me happy to read. :) I got excited about this tour when CW told me she had signed up. Over 2 solo trips, I have been to many of these stops (but not all yet) and loved them. I enjoyed Thessaloniki, though - when I arrived I wasn’t sure what to think, but it really grew on me. There’s a lot to see and it’s so different from Athens. And Meteora is one of “my” places. My last stay was 5 nights (had a car) and it’s time to figure out when to get back.

The Royal Tombs at Aigai are so amazing. When I was there, almost no one else was! And the Vikos Gorge area was another eye-opener. I stayed in a different town, but would go back and see more.

I stayed a couple of nights in Ioannina - that’s where I picked up my car. I could easily spend another couple of days, now that I know more. I would stay up in the castle area next time. It sounds like you were there during the day, but I have not ever seen such a dramatic change in a town right at 8:30 pm. Whole streets lit up and tables came out and so did people, where there wasn’t a sign of any of that earlier.

Albania? Ok, time to get back. So much of it calls my name. And I haven’t been to North Macedonia yet but will pair those next time.

Thank you!

Posted by
993 posts

Hi there and thanks so much for the excellent TR, it's opened my eyes to a part of Greece I've been invited to visit with Greek friends who are from Ioannina. They had suggested I fly from Athens while they drive, but now I realize we need some days along the way, it looks amazing. I also really appreciated the links to local museums, very helpful. Thanks again.

Posted by
3554 posts

Lane, I followed your trip on your blog, but was happy to read this report. I am so excited to visit Meteora and Rome in 2026!

Posted by
7955 posts

Lane, it sounds like it was a wonderful trip! I followed it on your blog (like Tammy) but am enjoying this. I went to Greece 27 years ago, but your report makes me long to go back. And Albania is definitely on my list! Thanks so much!