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Great first trip to Italy

Flight: We spent eight days in Italy- visiting Rome, Florence and Venice. Our trip was round trip from the US to Rome.

My itinerary took into consideration that we’re a family of five consisting of adults, teens and a 10-year-old. We would be be visiting the country for less than 10days. It was the first visit for all of us to Italy, and Christmas fell in the middle of our trip.

COVID precautions: We had to test 24 hours before leaving the US and returning. We were able to sign up and get a one-hour PCR test through our township. I’m glad I registered early, near our trip, it filled up. For the return trip, we ordered the Bimax AG test through eMed (as suggested by United Airlines). I would not wait to order these tests as sometimes they can be on backorder.
In Italy, I didn’t see anyone wearing cloth masks. We took KN94 and surgical masks and that’s mostly what people wore. At St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice, we were given the more protective masks to replace our surgical masks before we could enter (as well as Campanile). For our flight home, we flew through Frankfurt and were required to wear something similar to KN94.

Green pass: everywhere we went, we had to show our vaccine cards. We were all vaccinated, including my 10-year-old, and the adults were bolstered as well. We bought these plastic sleeves for our CDC cards, and I highly recommend that to protect your card.
There was only one time our card was accepted: Our second to last day in Italy. It was raining, and we had just arrived in Rome from Venice via train. At the train station, we bought some pizza and wanted to sit and eat there. The lady wouldn’t accept our CDC cards. She only accepted the Super Green pass. I mention this because it was the only time someone wouldn’t accept our CDC cards. Luckily, it happened at the very end of our trip, so I knew this wasn’t common. If it had happened in the beginning of our trip, I would have been stressed the rest of the trip. Even the next day we were out and the CDC cards weren’t an issue. My recommendation for dining, if you want to eat at an establishment is to first show your CDC card and make sure you won’t have trouble.

Getting around: We didn’t rent a car. We took the train to travel between the three cities. I would get the TrenItalia app. It made booking and changing trains a lot easier. In the cities, we mostly walked.

In Rome, if we were tired at the end of the day, we would take a taxi. We downloaded and used the Free Now app. It’s like Uber, but for the taxis in Rome. It was super simple, and you can pay using the app and you’ll know the rate ahead of time. Otherwise, some taxis only take Euros and you have to make sure you have that on hand.

Florence is small and we just walked.

In Venice, buy a vaporetto pass. Don’t even think about it. If you have kids (up to age 26, I think), you can purchase a heavily reduced ticket for three days. Venice is easy enough to walk, but we also hopped on and off a lot just because we would be tired and it’s fun sometimes to travel that way. (Also it was cold and sometimes, we sat inside to warm up).

Itinerary:

Rome: We arrived in Rome on the morning of Dec. 19. We took the train from the airport to the main train station (Roma Termini). From there, we walked to the hotel but stopped along the way and ducked into a small cafe to grab some pizza to eat.

We checked into the Hotel Lancelot. I cannot recommend this hotel enough. The staff was great, as were the owners. It’s steps away from the coliseum. It feels like you’re staying with family when you are there.

After we settled in, we went for a walk- the route suggested by the front desk clerk at the hotel. We walked pass the coliseum and forum, up to Via Del Corso, and walked past the Pantheon. Along the way, we grabbed gelato. We walked to Campo de’ Fiori and then Trastevere, where we grabbed some dinner before taking a taxi back to the hotel.

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Day One, Dec. 20:

Our first full day in Rome: We began our day with breakfast at the hotel. The fare was simple but splendid. One week later- I still miss having that morning cappuccino.

We started out the day with a tour of the coliseum. In June, they opened the underground tours for the first time. I was able to reserve tickets for that tour, and I highly recommend it. The guide did an excellent job, and it was fascinating to everyone in our party including the 10-year-old. From the coliseum we headed over to the Forum and Palatine Hill. We didn’t have any tours booked. We used the Rick Steves app audio tour of the Forum. We headed back to the hotel for a quick break. Just around the corner from our hotel was the San Clemente Basilica. This is a great church to visit. The church is 12th century, but the tour takes you down these steps where you can tour revenants of a fourth century church that it sits upon. Finally, another stairwell takes you down to first century Roman buildings. Afterwards, we took a taxi to the Piazza del Popolo. Using our guide book, we took the RS Dolce Vita walking tour. Our walk to us through Via Del Corso, where Christmas lights strung across the pedestrian only street. Shops lined the street, beckoning shopping inside, streets were filled with Italians buying gifts and tourists. We rounded the corner on Via Pontefici, which was quieter and passed the Mausoleum of Augustus. And looked through the windows at the Ara Pacis. The walk ended on the Spanish steps. We climbed up to catch the nighttime views.

We ended the night a quiet little restaurant, close to Spanish steps, but far enough that it away from the tourist section. It was a tiny restaurant, the food was impeccable, but like so many places, they played bad American music. It was strange to be served a beautifully plated salmon dish and have Sir Mix A Lot’s, “I like Big Butts” playing in the background. But it was funny.
Day Two, Dec. 21:
We took a taxi to the Vatican museums. We had purchased tickets online for an 8:30am entrance. It was pretty empty that day. We again relied on RS for his audio tour, which I highly recommend. It helped make the visit manageable. Otherwise, there is too much to see, and it gets overwhelming. After the museum, we visited the Sistine Chapel. Next, we had some espresso and croissants in the cafe. We ended our trip to Vatican with visit to St. Peter’s Basilica.
While touring Vatican museum, my youngest accidentally dropped his older brothers air pod (one of them) down a vent! So when we came back to hotel, I stayed with two younger kids for a nap and my husband took my eldest to Apple Store to replace the air pod (since we were using our phones for audio tours). It was unfortunate, but they made the best of it and turned it into an interesting cultural experience. While waiting for help, they watched an employee give elderly Italians a class on how to use their new iPhones.
In the late afternoon, we visited the Borghese Gallery. You have to have reservations here. I highly recommend it! We got there early and had some time to walk around the park and just enjoy it and take pictures. Our reservation was for 5pm. The museum is known for its collection of Bernini statues and Caravaggio paintings. Those are two of my older son’s favorite artists. I haven’t taken art history for over 20 years, so I enjoyed listening to him explain the art to his siblings as we walked through the gallery.
We were done around 6pm. I remembered that while we had seen the Pantheon from the outside, we had’t had a chance to go inside yet. We walked over and got in line by 6:30, which was perfect because the last entrance was 6:45pm. After visiting the Pantheon, we realized we were very hungry. It was right around 7pm and we ended up going to a restaurant right by Pantheon. Was it aimed at tourists? Definitely! But the food was good and when else do you have the opportunity to eat with such a stunning backdrop.

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Day three: Dec. 22:
Today was our 20th wedding anniversary. We had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, packed up and took the train to Florence. Florence is a pretty small city, so it was easy to walk to hotel (Hotel Pendini) from our train station. The hotel was in a great location. It didn’t have the homey feel of Hotel Lancelot, but the level of elegance was perfect for the special occasion. I would stay there again on a following visit to Florence. After we settled in our hotel, we decided to visit the Galileo museum. I thought it would be enjoyable for my youngest after seeing two art museums. We all thoroughly enjoyed it. I mean, we saw Galileo’s telescope and his finger!

Afterwards, we walked to Duomo and from there we took the Rick Steves audio walking tour: the Renaissance walk. Afterwards, we had dinner at Ristorante Natalino. I had the most amazing pasta dish I have ever eaten (pear filled ravioli with a Gorgonzola cheese sauce).

On the way back to the hotel, my husband wanted to get some money out of the ATM. He took my oldest son. Our hotel was right off of the Piazza della Republica. The two younger kids and myself, took the opportunity to ride the carousal and look at the Christmas window displays at the shops in the square. There was light drizzle, but it just made the scene seem more magical.

Day four: Dec. 23
Today was a relatively early day for us. We had 8:30 tickets for the Uffizi art gallery. Again, we used Rick Steves app for the audio tour. We saw another few families using the audio tour as well.

After the Uffizi, we walked to Duomo, and visited its museum, which I highly recommend. We also had tickets for a tour of the top but that wasn’t until 3:30. So we went back to the hotel to freshen up. Next, we visited the Mercato Centrale. At the bottom floor, we had fun checking out the market and purchased some chocolate. Afterwards, we walked back towards the Duomo and purchased some pizza at a shop along the way.

At 3:30, we took the Duomo terrace tour. It was great. It’s a small group tour, limited to 20 people. It’s not as high as the dome, closer in height to the Campanile, so we still got some great views. The tour leader told us it wasn’t a guided a tour, but we were free to ask her questions. When we got up there, she still gave us plenty of information, so it felt like a guided tour.

After the Duomo, we walked towards the Accademia. We stopped to grab some espresso and gelato along the way. We had 5:30pm tickets, we got there a little early, but it wasn’t a problem, they still let us in. It was pretty empty. We were able to walk straight up to the statue. Again, we used RS audio tour.

We went back to our hotel to rest before going out to eat. I kept seeing people with bags from Iginio Massari. I was very curious and finally asked someone, who told me it was a pastry shop. I looked it up and found out it was a well known pastry shop and it happened to be right around the corner from our hotel. I decided to pop over and pick up a panettone. My daughter was with me and convinced me to purchase some pastries as well.

On our way back, we found a restaurant for dinner. We had the funniest experience there. The server told us the special was this raw and pasta dish. It sounded so delicious, three of us ordered it. It turned out, we ordered all the specials. It was a small restaurant and there were two other families. He told each of them that the special was no longer available because we ordered it all! Then they watched as the plates were paraded out to us. It was absolutely delicious but I made sure I ate it all so not to be chased by other angry diners! We topped off the night with hot chocolate at Reverie. We were the only ones in the restaurant and it was a luxurious way to end the day.

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Day Five: De.c 24
We enjoyed our final breakfast in Florence. We took a 9:20 train to Venice. Once we got to Venice, we bought passes for the vaporetto and hopped in. We checked into our hotel and rested a bit, ate the pastries I bought the night before as well as some fruit I packed.

We went for a walk. I had signed up for a mask decorating classes at Ca Macana but got an email letting us know that they needed to cancel the class. We were disappointed but during our walk, we found another shop. The shop didn’t offer classes, but we spoke at length with the owner/artist. He told us about his masks, his work, history of the masks in Venice. We ended up purchasing some masks for ourselves that he had created.

Venice was a lot colder than Rome or Florence. We walked around the city, peeking into shops. Finally, we hopped on a vaporetto to St. Mark’s square. We took a tour of the Doge’s palace. All three kids really enjoyed it. They especially enjoyed the armory and getting a chance to see suits of armor and all the bows and arrows. I liked the history. The tickets to the Doge also include tickets to the Correr museum right across the square. We decided to skip that. By the time we completed to Doge Palace tour, it was dark outside and cold, wet and windy. The square had emptied out. We decided to take the opportunity to do the RS audio tour of the square. As we stood at the absolutely empty square, we chuckled at the references to the crowds.

By the time we were finished with the tour, we decided to walk down one of the streets off the square and peak into shops until we found a restaurant that we wanted to eat in. It was nice to warm up inside a warm restaurant after a long day of sightseeing. I had a big plate of calamari for dinner.

Day six: Dec. 25
In Venice, we rented an apartment through one of the hotels (San Teodoro). It was Christmas Day. I wasn’t sure what to expect. We slept in and caught up on sleep. Church bells and pigeon calls woke me up. We had a Nespresso in the apartment. We each enjoyed a cup of espresso and panettone from Florence for breakfast. It was delicious. While we slowly showered and got dressed for the day, my youngest turned on the TV to watch kids shows in Italian. Curious George in Italian is very entertaining for a 10-year-old.
Finally, mid-morning, we stepped outside. Our apartment front door opened up to an alley. As soon as we turned onto the first main street, we saw that it was filled with people all bundled up, walking about. It was a very festive atmosphere.
We took the vaporetto back to one stop before the train station. There we caught a vaporetto going the opposite way. We sat up front and did the grand canal tour using the RS app. There is some pausing and skipping ahead depending on how fast your boat is going, but it was worth it.
We got off at St. Mark’s square. We were pretty cold from sitting out on the boat so we ducked into a cafe for coffee and hot chocolate. You pay more to sit than drink at the bar, but we were happy to pay the premium to sit inside and enjoy the view of St. Mark’s square and warm up.
Afterwards we took the elevator up to the Campanile. They gave each person an equivalent of a KN94 mask to wear. Despite the cloudy day, the views were amazing. We spent the afternoon walking, grabbing pizza in a small cafe nearby.
In the evening, we took a gondola tour of the canals. We peppered the gondolier about his work and thoroughly enjoyed it. We ended with an amazing dinner at Quadri.

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Day 7: Dec. 26
We had to check out by 10am from our apartment, so we woke up by 8am, got dressed and packed up. We left our luggage and stepped out to grab breakfast. It was 9am and we walked over the Rialto Bridge to check out the open air market. It was pretty empty since it was the day after Christmas. There were a couple of vendors. We ended up chatting with one and bought some spices and dried mushrooms to bring bag.
We grabbed some espresso and freshly baked jam filled croissants from a cafe for breakfast. We then grabbed our luggage from the apartment. We dropped it off at the hotel front desk and took the vaporetto to St. Mark’s square. We hadn’t been inside St. Mark’s Basilica but it was closed for mass (you could enter if you wanted to attend service).
We took the vaporetto to Ca D’Oro but realized once we got there that it was closed on the 25th and 26th. The Ca D’Oro is close to Jewish Ghetto neighborhood so we decided to try the Gam Gam Kosher restaurant. We got there and enjoyed bowls of delicious soup.
Satiated, we went back to St. Mark’s square. By now, there was a line for St. Mark’s Basilica. The side door had a sign with the QR code to buy tickets online and skip the line, which is exactly what we did right then and walked right in (again, they gave us new KN94 masks). Afterwards, we again had snacks at a cafe off of the square. We grabbed our luggage for the hotel and took a train back to Rome.
Once our train arrived at Rome, it was around 8:30pm and raining. We grabbed pizza at the train station but the lady at the restaurant wouldn’t accept our CDC cards to eat there. We had already ordered at the counter so we had the food to go. We took two taxis to the hotel. When we returned to the Hotel Lancelot, they opened up their dining room and set out plates and water for us so we couldn’t enjoy our takeout in comfort. It was so much better than eating at the train station.
Day 8: Dec. 27
Today was our final day in Italy. We woke up and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Afterwards, we went upstairs and took our COVID tests. We had the eMed kits and they were easy to use.
The sun had come out and we walked downstairs trying to decide where to go today. We ran into the hotel owner and he pulled out a map and suggested a walk for us. It took us past the Circus Maximus (which was closed since it was Monday, but you get a good look at it still), past the rose garden where we saw a feral cat eating a bowl of pasta someone left him, and finally to a building with a keyhole that promises a great view. There was a line of people waiting for their turn to look into the keyhole indicating it was no secret. The view in the keyhole did not disappoint.
We visited the Mouth of Truth before walking back to Via Del Corso. Unlike our first few days in Rome, the city was busier right after Christmas. We also could hear a lot more people speaking in American English. I assume I a lot of people were visiting between Christmas and New Years. We popped into a quiet pizza shop and grabbed a few slices for a quick lunch. We continued on our walk, as the street became more crowded.
We finally ended our walk at Trevi Fountain. After snapping some pictures, we made our away from the crowded piazza and meandered through the streets until we found a gelato stand. We enjoyed our final gelato in Italy.
We ended up at a large bookstore where we drank in the cafe upstairs. Nearby, an American lady sat in front of her laptop giving someone an online Spanish lesson. Fortified with gelato and coffee, we left the bookstore (my son purchased a book), and walked around peaking into shops and bought gifts for friends home.
We had an early dinner since our flight was early the next day and took a taxi back to our hotel.

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Day 9: Dec. 28

We had a 7am flight so we woke up around 4:15am and came down into the lobby at 4:45am. Even though breakfast doesn’t start until 7am, the front desk made us some cappuccino and hot chocolate and served us croissants. I can fully understand why people keep coming back to this hotel. I want to go back just to stay there. Our private car took us to the airport. There was a long line to check in but it was pretty smooth and we had no issues on our flight back to the US.

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Enjoyed the report and it sounds like you all had a great time.

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Kudos to you for proceeding with your trip despite covid complications.
Our 1st trip to Italy (1984) was at the same time of year, but 17 days, not 8. It was life-shaping for our daughters, then 19 and 15. The older one, then in college, decided to seek foreign employment. She wound up getting her first job as an English assistant in Japan, and stayed there 3 more years, working in a variety of jobs and becoming proficient in Japanese.
The younger one decided there and then that she would do a junior year abroad when she got to college. Her year in France led to an assistantship in a lycee after graduation, and eventually to work in education abroad programs.
Both girls have traveled extensively, for work and pleasure, to every continent except Antarctica, many more than their parents, who got a much later start.

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@Rosalyn, thanks for sharing. It was a challenge to plan a trip for entire family instead of just us, but I could see how impactful it was to the kids. I hope, like your daughters, they continue traveling abroad and widening their horizons.

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Great report, thanks! so glad you enjoyed The Hotel Lancelot. The Khan family really run a splendid place. By the end of a day of sightseeing our dogs were really barking! We’d unwind with a spritz in the little bar in the rear of the hotel. We had their dinner two nights. Simple but very good food, saving us another pizza on the fly dinner (although they steered us to a few decent places a short walk from the hotel).

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Thanks for the report. It brought back a few memories of our trip, a month earlier.

We never had the experience of anyone not accepting our vaccination cards (issued by our province in Canada), fortunately. Glad you ended up with a comfortable place to eat your meal, regardless.