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Gourock Highland Games

TRIP REPORT- Gourock Highland Games 13 to 15 May 2023
[This is my first public trip report, I only normally write Voyage Reports purely for my own consumption, so apologies if it is rough round the edges]

Saturday 13 May-
Today should have been a very simple train trip to Manchester. However due to rail strikes there were no trains locally to Carlisle, and none beyond Preston. In previous strikes there have been Preston to Manchester trains but these had been diverted to Liverpool for Eurovision.
It was further complicated by having major roadworks north of my home town. The roadworks company had said that buses were being allowed through, but on a diversion down unsuitably narrow roads. No one including the bus company really knew what was going to happen, or whether my bus connection would work due to delays on the diversion. In the event buses were escorted and the connection worked, if uncomfortably tight.

Avanti at least were running a basic service (announced 3 days earlier) with, very surprisingly, connecting rail replacement coach services from Glasgow and Edinburgh.
There was a fracas in my car over a dog (which then turned into a race row), and British Transport Police had to be contacted for assistance at the next station. In the general melee, as I tried to calm things down, I found out much later that someone's ring had fallen off their finger and into my pocket!
Because of having allowed over an hour leeway for a missed connection I was able to do some research, for an author, at Carlisle Library into little known letters by William Wordsworth about the then proposed Windermere branch line railway, and it's planned extension to Ambleside and maybe Keswick.
In truth the strike did me a favour, as the government £2 bus fare scheme allowed me to take a most unusual route through the old Mill towns of East Lancashire to Manchester, including a very lucky -2 minute connection at Blackburn (ie- a bus which should have left 2 minutes before I arrived).
The point of going down to Manchester today was to visit the grave of my recently deceased Godmother (my late Mum's bridesmaid) at Manchester Southern Cemetery. She was basically my last living relative, the last link to my parents, and Sunday was also Mum's birthday, so this was a powerful visit, worth spending all day to get there.
I also had a couple of war memorials to check on for the War Memorials Trust.

Due to how late I had booked this trip I had been unable to find a hotel at a price I considered sensible in Glasgow, so had an overnight coach to catch to Glasgow at 0135, arriving at 0645, stopping every hour.
This had been charted full, due to people making bookings in lieu of the train.
In the event we were only half full. A lot of people had therefore paid too much due to such speculative bookings putting up the fare, and people may even have been unable to travel.
While waiting at Manchester Airport it was interesting to see that Transpennine Express were running rail replacement buses on strike day to Huddersfield- something which is not supposed to happen.
I had a Manchester Plus Bus ticket, booked in connection with my rail ticket. This is valid on any bus in Greater Manchester, and costs £3.25 with a railcard. For use on 8 different buses this is very good value (had I been on time it would have had far more use)

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Sunday 14 May
The Games were not starting until 12 noon, so I had all morning to get to Gourock. There really isn't much to do in Glasgow early on a Sunday, so first train to Gourock, then the fast ferry to Gourock. There are two ferries on the service- the Ali Cat (which is the one I have always managed to end up on) and the Argyll Flyer. By chance the Flyer was on service that morning, so I was able to add a new ship to my Collection.
This is CalMac's only profitable route- as such it is not covered by the RET (Road Equivalent Tariff) fares on all other routes, so it costs as much as the far longer route to Arran.
It is also their only foot passenger route. The Mallaig to Small Isles and the Iona routes are also foot only, but you can take a car over if you have an islander's permit.
Cars go on the competing Western Ferries route from Hunter's Quay

Now for a rookie mistake. The only bus sat at the ferry terminal was one to Toward Lighthouse, somewhere I have been trying to reach for years. I hadn't even thought about that as traditionally there has been no Sunday service to Toward. With two minutes to decide, and no paper timetables to be found, I had to let that go as I couldn't risk being stranded 8 miles away. Eventually I did find out that it was every 2 hours so I would only have been running 30 minutes late if I had done that.
Sometimes you can know too much.
So I just reverted to what I was scheduled to do- to do check visits on a number of war memorials in Dunoon.
It was a short walk to Battery Park on part of the Clyde Coastal path- this runs from Skelmorlie to Milngavie via the Erskine Bridge, it links the Ayrshire Coastal Path (106 miles from Glenapp to Skelmorlie) and the West Highland Way. At Glenapp this more or less connects to the Southern Upland Way all the way to the Scottish Borders- all in all a walk getting on for the length of the South West Coastal Path.
Battery Park is so named because it was home to the Clyde Torpedo factory where torpedoes were originally designed and tested before the factory switched to the manufacturing of torpedoes during the Second World War. It was also home to a World War Two light anti-aircraft battery which is noted in a document held by the National Archives at Kew (WO 166 7369). The battery was one of at least three, constructed to protect Gourock. Similar arrangements of light anti-aircraft batteries were established around a number of vulnerable points, either military or industrial, along the banks of the Clyde.
The games are funded by Inverclyde Council so are free to attend.
It was hard to know what to watch as there were a total of 38 pipe bands competing in two different arenas.
There was also a Highland Dancing Competition and the traditional heavy sports arena.
Lots of local food stalls and a bar. Among the food stalls was a 'tuck shop' run by the local Scouts Group- with sandwiches and hot options- those included 'slice and tattie scone' in a bun. A 'slice' is flat Lorne Sausage, as opposed to what are called 'links sausages' in Scotland.
There was also a Children's games where 9 local schools were competing against each other and an amusement fair.
Battery Park is a wonderfully scenic venue on the shores of the Clyde looking over to the Cowal and Rosneath peninsulas, to Holy Loch, and the entrances to Loch Long and Gare Loch.
The heavy games were-
Putting the Kempock Stane;
Putting the 16lb Shot Putt;
Throwing the 28lb weight for distance;
Throwing the 16lb Scots Hammer;
Throwing the 22lb Scots Hammer;
Tossing the Caber;
Throwing the 56lb weight for height

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Putting the Kempock Stane [dialect for stone] is an event unique to Gourock.
The original Kempock Stane stands on a cliff behind Kempock Street in Gourock and is sometimes referrred to as the Granny Kempock stone, as it resembles a figure with a shrouded head. It has been around for several hundred years and is surrounded by myths and folklore. Standing about 6 foot high, it is said that fishermen and sailors walked round the stone 7 times asking for a safe voyage, and that newly married couples passed round the stone to bless their union.

There happened to be a cruise ship in at Greenock (for Glasgow) cruise terminal and Inverclyde Council always give a good welcome to such ships. So quite a few passengers had come down to the Games- Americans, Canadians, one French person and one Australian.

In an interlude in the games there was a fun competition for the public throwing a stane. Two classes- one for women, one for men. American visitors won both classes!

The grand finish to the day was the March past of all 38 pipe bands- all gathering in the main arena for the presentation of trophies- a stirring event.

Just across from the park is Fort Matilda station for trains to Glasgow Central.

Fort Matilda was built during the Napoleonic Wars to defend the Clyde but was also one of five on the Clyde to be heavily used and manned to defend the Clyde estuary. It was demolished around 1937.

I was booked overnight at the Premier Inn at St Enoch, Glasgow, and just crashed when I got there. I always have a really good night's sleep at a PI- far better than I ever get at home.

It was really lovely to be back in Gourock where I lived off and on for about 18 months while working at Renfrew. (mainly on the Waterfront Leisure Centre, Greenock)- a building project which became mired in complex and very long running legal actions.

MONDAY 15 MAY
This morning I was paying a day visit to the new railway station at Inverness Airport. I am aware of having recommended it from reviews of the time. The initial issues with the station have now been resolved. There is a separate review on the forum.
So another early start at 0700.
Then all the way back to Cumbria with an unscheduled, but hoped for, 2 hour layover in Inverness. A very busy two hours as I visited a number of sites on check visits.
I had the Inter7City HST booked on the way back. Last time I travelled on one of these one of the four cars was locked out for the guard. We ended up picking up another train load of passengers from a broken down train (including football fans to Dundee), and were an hour late due to the breakdown- so it was a very unpleasant experience of 3 trains rolled into one.
I would have to report that none of the plug points were working on this 3 ½ hour journey, so unable to charge devices. I hope this was an isolated occurrence. But apart from that a much more pleasant trip than on the normal DMU's on the line
For the second time in a weekend the police had to be called to a disturbance on the train at Pitlochry, resulting in a 35 minute delay.
So I was glad I had allowed a long connection in Glasgow- the option was to do that, or to go for a legal but tight connection saving 1 ½ hours- which I considered to be unsafe.
Arrival back in Cumbria was at a few minutes to midnight.

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By the way the Greenock Burns Club is the oldest Burns Club in the world, having been instituted on 21 July 1801. Some of the first members actually knew Robert Burns.
They have an exhibition of records and artefacts in Greenock Custom House which is open every Saturday from 12 noon to 2 pm.
The Club own a Monument in Greenock Cemetery which they erected at the grave of 'Highland Mary' [Mary Campbell].
She was one of the best known loves of Robert Burns and the pair had intended to emigrate to Jamaica from Greenock in 1786, but Mary died before that happened.

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Really enjoyable report to read! That’s amazing about the ring from the train fracas.

So now Americans have stane titles to defend. They should be doing Train for Stane to stay up to form.

Let he and she who want to win next year’s contest Cast the first Stane!