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Glasgow (and the Clyde Ferries) and Bristol in two days

This week I went from the Lake District to Glasgow then Bristol and back home in 2 days.

This is a fairly common event for me for such long trips, but this time was just a little different.

I had to go to Glasgow for formal condition check visits on two war memorials. The actual purpose had vacillated- originally it was to one at Arrochar (near Loch Lomond), that switched to Barrhill (between Girvan and Stranraer) then eventually was re prioritised to Yoker (a Glasgow suburb) and Houston.

Houston is way off any tourist trail, now being a dormitory village to Glasgow, but in Renfrewshire. But is actually quite an interesting place dating back to the 12th century. The modern village is a planned 18th century village, built on a grid plan. Like may of the towns and villages in the area it was partly agricultural but the mainstay industry was cotton weaving. It is now a conservation area.
Probably not somewhere I would have gone to without another reason, but a pleasant visit in the hour between buses.

On the spur of the moment I decided not to go back into Glasgow, then out again to Houston but rather to take the little known Renfrew Ferry across from Yoker to Renfrew. This is the last survivor of 6 cross Clyde ferries. The timetable will tell you it runs every 30 minutes and takes 10 minutes. Neither is true- it runs on demand and takes 2 minutes.

I must have been looking as tired and worn out as I felt because I was offered the concessionary fare of £1.50, rather than the full fare of £3.
Given that it saved me nearly 90 minutes (through subsequent slick bus connections, that became 3 hours saved) worth every penny.

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Part 2 Clyde Ferries- by the time I cleared Houston and made a totally untimetabled negative 2 minute bus connection at Kilbarchan I was running 3 hours early- a totally unheard of situation for me where I am usually chasing my tail.

I already had a regional bus ticket on McGills buses for £8.75 covering all the way from Glasgow to Largs, so decided to play tourist for the afternoon.

So continued to Gourock where I lived for almost a year while commuting down the M8 to Renfrew. Frequently in the evening I would take the old Cal Mac ferry across to Dunoon (on Cowal) just for the sake of it, travelling foot pax.

But could never justify the cost of taking the car over on the Western Ferries alternative route from McInroy's Point to Hunters Quay on Cowal (2 miles outside Dunoon). That route runs every 20 minutes, and is a great alternative driving route up to Oban from Glasgow- a far nicer route IMO than via Loch Lomond.
I was on Cowal just for the afternoon. With all the CalMac problems (especially to Arran) this summer (and attendant issues with lack of capacity due to too many tourists to Arran for the available sailings) that was just so wonderful to get such a sailing in. It has been a desperately frustrating summer for me.
I then went down to Wemyss Bay (the port for Bute, a few minutes away by bus, about 2 hours by train). The bus from Glasgow to Wemyss Bay and Largs #901/906 (for the ferry to the Isle of Cumbrae) runs every 15 minutes (every 30 via Gourock) and is super convenient.
Being used to driving down the Clyde Coast it was liberating to be able to enjoy the scenery in a way you can't when concentrating on the road, and on such a frequent service.
A very enjoyable afternoon.

It was also good to find that the excellent Macaris fish and chip shop is still at Wemyss Bay as is the award winning McCaskies butcher, cafe and deli. That should be a compulsory stop for anyone using the ferry from Wemyss Bay.

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Part 3 Birmingham- Back to Glasgow for the overnight bus to Birmingham via the A1, Leeds and Leicester. A nice overnight bus as it leaves early at 8pm, arriving at 6.45am (which we made spot on time) and there are good long non stop runs to get some decent sleep.

It is less than 10 minutes walk up the road from Digbeth Coach Station to New Street Railway Station. To allow for any issues on the road (and handpick my train to hopefully be a quiet one) I had allowed a 2 hour transfer window. So on a very nice Autumn Day I took the opportunity to walk the towpaths of the Birmingham Canal System- always a joy. From very near the Coach Station you join the Digbeth Branch Canal which then joins the Birmingham and Fazeley, curving round the edge of the city centre as far as Snow Hill Station.
A really nice way to do the transfer, in 75 minutes rather than 10. Everything you could hope for- locks, turnover bridges, 2 tunnels, the subterranean sections, abandoned side arms, what the canals of Birmingham are all about.

With my senior railcard I then had the train to Bristol for £8.35 (a route which is often seen as being expensive, but has newly minted cheap fares) and, yes a quiet Cross Country train.

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Part 4- Bristol and home-

The purpose of the Bristol visit was, as an all stationer, to visit the newly opened Ashley Down station in the northern suburbs- station 2584 on the UK rail network. However I have been doing this for many years, so station 2639 for me- due to closures in the meantime and short lived temporary and emergency rail stations.

What was a functional visit turned into something a bit special. I followed my nose back through lovely green lanes and a huge urban farm back into the City.
I have a rather chequered view of Bristol in recent years due to always racing across the city.

But with no plan in hand and the chance to wander, I struck so lucky.

I stumbled on the Church of St John on the Wall (only open for 3 hours on Wednesday and 5 hours on Saturday)- 2 churches actually- a crypt below the separate main Church (even more lucky as they were closing the crypt 90 minutes early) and then Christ Church with St Ewen just down the street- a very fine Georgian Church (only open for a Wednesday lunchtime recital).

And then just slightly further down the street the St Nicholas' Indoor Market. I would have to say I would put that on a must see list for Bristol. And what looks an amazing hotel- the Rummer Hotel (doubtless the prices of rooms are equally amazing)- a place frequented by all the Lake Poets (Wordsworth, Coleridge and Southey).

Then home by train- from Bristol to the western Lake District for an astonishing £19 railcard fare, booked just 5 weeks in advance. Again a hand picked Cross Country train to Stafford which I suspected would be quiet (and was) then an 11 car train (so lots of room) from Stafford to Carlisle. As I often do I had a booked seat in Car E, but just went to the unreserved Car G, knowing that would be a lightly used car.

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Stuart, I just read an article about the new TV series, Rivals, recently. Apparently several locations in Bristol, including the Harbor Hotel on Corn Street and the Georgian park Queen Square, were used along with filming occurring in the new Bottle Yard Studios there. In an interview David Tennant was very complimentary about the city, too.

I’m looking at taking a day trip to Glasgow while we are there. I would love to go by ferry to one of the isles, but it’s probably too far.

Again, so many wonderful places in England to explore!

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1401 posts

Rivals is so much fun. All of the London scenes were actually filmed in Bristol. It’s set mainly in the Cotswolds among the wealthy and horsey set that Jilly Cooper (the author of the original book) was a part of. She definitely wrote what she knew.

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PS- I've been writing up my war memorial condition reports this morning, and doing a bit more research as I do so.

There is another fine looking Georgian Church in Bristol- St Thomas the Martyr Church.-https://www.visitchurches.org.uk/visit/church-listing/st-thomas-bristol.html

Like St John's on the Wall Church mentioned above it is now redundant for worship (although still consecrated) and maintained by the Churches Conservation Trust. It is always worth looking at the CCT website for interesting Churches anywhere in the UK.

There is another similar Charity- the Friends of Friendless Churches.

The other CCT Georgian Church I came across in Bristol, as I wandered (relative terminology for me), but walked from Ashley Down to the Coach Station without a fixed plan or route, is St Paul's Church.
That one is especially interesting (you can't normally get in it) as it is now a Circus Training School- probably a unique re-use for a Church.

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10186 posts

A fun trip and I love that you got ahead of yourself by taking the ferry ! Thanks for sharing about your trip.