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German Christmas Markets, 2016

Time was not on my side this year to visit many markets, but there is always next year to visit more.

Favorite market this year was the medieval market at Ronneburg Castle. About an hour drive from Frankfurt and located right between Gelnhausen and Büdingen, they hold their market on 3 Advent weekends. Big plus here is that you can then visit the market in Büdingen on one of the weekends and the one in Gelnhausen the next. This is not an easy market to get to with public transportation. If you don't have a car, perhaps a taxi would be easiest. Huge parking lot, charging a 2€ fee. Entry to the market/castle is 3€. I got a .50€ reduction for being a senior.

The castle itself is a lovely, Staufen Castle. Mostly built in the 1200's and 1300's it should fulfill most peoples idea of what a castle should look like. Set up on a hill, it offers a commanding view of the countryside, especially if you have the nerves to climb to the top of the tower. Part of the market is outside with a lovely, hand carved carousel for the kids, and lots of drink, jewelry, and food. Once you enter the castle, the market goes from room to room and level to level. Made exploring lots of fun. Make sure you visit the 95m well near the entrance. Toss a bucket of water down and be amazed at how long you have to wait to hear it splash at the bottom. Light costs 50 cents, but is worth it. Most of the items at the stands looked handmade. Lots of medieval looking items of course in leather, metals, yarns, felt, etc. For kids there were wooden swords, helmets, shields and fancy hats. Lovely cake and coffee cafe up in an upper room that looked like they used it for events/receptions and a harpist playing the whole time. Very atmospheric. There is a large restaurant with pricey food next to the castle and the whole place looks like they use it for corporate parties, team building events, etc. A falconry is there as well as hang-gliding.
This market is a keeper and I hope to go back next year as we enjoyed it so much.
http://www.burg-ronneburg.de/

Next market was Michelstadt. Have had this town on my list to visit for a long time and was happy to finally get there. We purchased a Hessen ticket for 34 euro and took a regional train directly there. Took a bit over an hour. The old town area is a good 10-15 min. walk from the train station. The decorations were lovely, the market wound around various streets, adding to the atmosphere. Had some of the best potato pancakes there. Very crispy, and flavorful. The town looked like it had lots of cosy, pretty hotels with adjoining restaurants. I wouldn't mind staying there for the weekend. Plenty of half-timbered buildings and the town hall was built in 1484. Don't be fooled by the half 8's used as 4's in the middles ages. The church was pretty, but nothing exceptional. We found a beautiful little synagogue with a passionate curator. It is mainly used as a museum, but he said they did have a community of 17 that met there. Mainly Russian immigrants.

Lastly, we will do the Frankfurt market again cause I enjoy it. I think they go through more glühwein than any other market! It is the laughing market. Hand crafts are in the area around the Paulskirche, with puppets, felt, jewelry, nativity items from Tirol, pottery, hand knit items, and wooden toys. The planked salmon from the Rosa market was great. Best potato pancakes here are near the river. Best bratwursts too.
Might still squeeze in Speyer next week as they are open until 8 Jan. If I do, will add on to this of course. Sad not to make it to Marburg and Limburg as that was planned.

Posted by
2774 posts

I love your reports on the Christmas markets. Thanks, Jo!

Posted by
543 posts

"Plenty of half-timbered buildings and the town hall was built in 1484. Don't be fooled by the half 8's
used as 4's in the middles ages'.

I don't understand this comment Jo. Could you explain?

Thanks,
Peter

Posted by
9219 posts

In the early middle ages, they would cut off the bottom of an 8 to make a 4. Sort of looks like the same shape as those ribbons people wear to support different causes. That is as close as I can get since I can't draw on here. Once you see it for the 1st time, you will begin to see it everywhere. In churches, on grave stones, building dates, etc.

Posted by
33819 posts

My wife and I had lovely times at 3 smaller Christmas markets a bit further north at the beginning of the month.

First was Brühl, between Köln and Bonn, very easy to get to by regional train from anywhere in NRW.
Easy parking, a smaller market running all week. Beautiful walk from the train station past one Schloss to the other twin and the market spread out throughout the town.

We were staying in Euskirchen, just down both the road and the regional train line, so that we could experience a unique hotel run by a hippy in his 80s. And one of our now favourite Thermen (spa), Thermen & Badewelt Euskirchen with over 500 real palm trees and thousands of orchids and the strongest swimming current we have yet experienced - no longer do we need to go all the way to the outskirts of Munich or the Black Forest.

Euskirchen has a really friendly, very small, daily Christmas market near the shopping area and adjacent to the really cheap multistory car park, just 5 minutes from the station. Serving real local treats (and of course crepes) and local wine for those who indulge. Lots of fun per square foot, but a little small overall.

The big treat was the fabulous discovery of Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler which is just west of Remagen (a bridge too far).

Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler is a joined town composed of two very different parts with 3 regional train stations. We initially were going to Bad Neuenahr for its spa but we were caught by the incredible beauty of Ahrweiler village just to the west of the spa and never got to the spa.

Ahrweiler has its original (very high) intact walls and even much higher and heavier gates, brimming with half timbered buildings (Fachwerk) and very interesting lanes and little squares, and an Advent weekends Christmas Market. Food is local, including very tasty Schinkenpfanne (a big bowl for €5) and very good bratwursts for only €2.50. The market winds all around the village, following cut out signs touring you around. I loved following the trail, especially when we were taken past a (working) water wheel and old warehouses by the river.

Live music of different styles in the different squares and courtyards, including an obligatory brass band, and from the the bank building balcony three young ladies sang Christmas songs, Andrews Sisters style.

We went back at Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler 3 times. Maybe we liked it?

By the way, we thought that Bonn would have a market. Either it doesn't or we never found it.

Posted by
737 posts

I love reading your thoughts on the Christmas markets! We were able to enjoy the German markets in Munich and Cologne. There were so many to choose from and of course we were obligated to taste the gluhwein at each one, you know, for investigational purposes.

Posted by
27 posts

Ms. Jo,
I always enjoy reading your posts, and this is no exception. You and Rick have me, a francophile, dreaming of Germany. I have about five trips planned, more convenient now that Lufthansa flies direct from Tampa to Frankfurt. Would love to see the German Christmas markets, thanks for helping me dream!
Lisa

Posted by
9219 posts

For those of you who would like to see what some of the smaller markets look like, here is a collection. Some just have photos, others videos. One of my favorites is in 1st place. Nigels is listed too, but looks like they could use a better film to sell it.
https://bestchristmascity.de/store/listing/

Posted by
1258 posts

German Christmas Markets are on my bucket list with a lot of German ancestry running through me. Your report is wonderful and I am now impatient to get there some day!