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GARDENS AND GLACIERS: London to Iceland

We are four longtime friends from Atlanta, traveling again on our first trip together since the plague. I make the plans, and my friends are some of the lowest-maintenance, most generous, and fun loving travelers I know. We’ve hit all the big name spots on other London trips, so we’re planning this one around great gardens and some fun-sounding local events.

We’ve always rented apartments in London, until our previous booking company went under with Covid, taking along a lot of unreturned deposits, so I won’t mention their infamous name. I’ve had only good experiences with Sawday’s properties in Europe, so for this trip tried a B&B in Hammersmith for our six nights. Have never stayed this far out of the center, but we were a 5 minute walk from the Hammersmith tube station, where the District line is a straight shot to Westminster and Embankment (Trafalgar Square) and the Piccadilly train goes right to Covent Garden. The Hammersmith & City (the Hot & Cold to locals) is a quick ride to Paddington. An added bonus was taking the Piccadilly train direct from Heathrow to our B&B in a fast 30 minutes, avoiding the traffic slog that usually sends me into a coma after an overnight flight.
http://www.abetterwaytostay.co.uk

We opt for the later night direct Delta flights out of ATL, hoping for sleep, so usually aren’t in our space until early afternoon. Everyone’s entitled to her own opinion, but I’m a lot happier after a mostly sleepless night to get a short nap in a real lay-flat bed before heading out. A great dinner at the Hawksmoor Knightsbridge Steak House followed by walking and window shopping. Tomorrow’s a big day, and we’re in early tonight.

LONDON

The RHS Chelsea Flower Show! I bought four tickets in November as soon as they went on sale, before I even asked anybody if they wanted to go. I’d been once years ago, and it’s a fun and memorable day if you love gardens. The Sloane Square tube stop is only a ten-minute walk from the show, and we arrived soon after the opening at 8AM. Landscape designers build complete gardens for the six-day run of the show, and there’s a huge exhibition hall filled with cut flowers and mass plantings. Food trucks and a few sit-down restaurants, but next time I may take a picnic like many locals. It can get crowded, but it’s festive. A special day for gardeners, for sure!

Japanese dinner at the Hare & Tortoise in Kensington, a taxi driver rec, then a front seat, top of the bus ride to Covent Garden for gelato at Venchi. (We discovered one of the scenic bus rides in the RS London book goes from Trafalgar Square all the way to Hammersmith. #9, possibly? A joyride in low traffic when there’s no hurry.)

Friday morning was a float down the Thames on the LondonWalks Brunel’s River Cruise, with Martin. We boarded our boat outside the Embankment tube stop, and got in an extra long walk when the regular boat was cancelled. Grateful for another stunningly sunny day. An unusual LondonWalks involving a boat, a couple of overground trains, and plenty of walking, but a knowledgeable guide and a unique river viewpoint for London landmarks usually seen from the sidewalk. We ended at the historic Mayflower Pub where the Pilgrims launched their trip to the new country. Excellent fish & chips on the deck overlooking the river.
https://www.mayflowerpub.co.uk

A stop on the way back at the Museum of Natural History to see the Wildlife Photographer of the Year Exhibit and a quick run home before tubing to Covent Garden to see Mrs. Doubtfire at the Shaftsbury Theatre. Over 20K steps for the second day in a row. I’m sure my Apple Watch thought it had been stolen and was now on somebody else’s arm.
https://www.nhm.ac.uk/visit/exhibitions/wildlife-photographer-of-the-year

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Saturday was beautiful for St. James Park and a quick tube to Borough Market for lunch. https://boroughmarket.org.uk Much too crowded on Saturdays, but they have added stadium seating and outdoor tables that make eating more pleasant, or at least possible. We bought delicious grilled shrimp bowls from an outdoor vendor and were headed to the bakery vendors when one of my friends fell into a giant pothole, landing on her wrists. She was shaken enough that it seemed best to send her and a second friend home in a taxi to regroup. Friend three and I walked to nearby Liverpool tube station - massive, confusing, and time-wasting. (Shoulda taken a taxi too.) Meanwhile, wounded friend’s wrist is hurting enough that B&B host sends her to Kings Cross Hospital.

We have tickets for SIX tonight nearby on the Strand. The two of us who have finally arrived at unpleasantly crowded Trafalgar Square escaped to the Crypt, to Fortnum & Mason, and then to my favorite Trafalgar area pub, Chandos, hoping that all four of us will make it to the musical tonight. We’re very near Kings Cross station. The hospital must be near, right?

Wrong. Kings Cross Hospital is actually in Hammersmith, only a few blocks from our house. The bad news: only two of us got to see the rocking SIX from front row Dress Circle seats. The good news: Susan’s wrist was not broken and they X-rayed, splinted, and sent her on her way free of charge since she didn’t need to be admitted! (I was an ER nurse, and I promise that would never happen in any US hospital where I worked!)

This was the thorn in our trip, but plenty of roses coming soon.

HIGHCLERE CASTLE and the HIGHCLERE FAIR

Sunday we are touring Highclere Castle. I’m the Downton Abbey fan, and the other three became binge-watching converts when they knew we had tickets. It’s easy to take a train from Paddington to Newbury, where taxis will be waiting. It’s about a 15 minute taxi ride to the castle, and you arrange with your driver to pick you up again.

We had a 2:30 castle entry, but when I bought our tickets I saw there was also a Highclere Fair on the grounds of the estate that day. When I contacted the castle later asking how long we should plan for the fair (thinking maybe it was a few tables with games and food, like in the TV show) they suggested getting there when it opened at 9AM. It was one of my favorite days in England!

Dogs and horses! Beautiful hunting dogs everywhere showing off in retrieving contests while their canine buddies watched through the fences, hoping to be next in line. Gorgeous Lusitanos exhibiting their advanced dressage skills. Birds of prey and parachutists. Food trucks with bacon sandwiches and pasties. We shared a picnic table with a welcoming Canadian family, but didn’t hear a single Yank accent all day.
https://highclereshow.co.uk

We were so captivated with the dogs, we were almost late to the castle! Interesting to be in the rooms where the series is filmed, but it is also a very much lived-in family home of the present Earl and Countess Carnarvan. Walking up the road from the fair, I moved over for a vintage Range Rover to pass, and recognized her driving. Their home is filled with silver framed family photos, and helpful docents in each room can answer your questions.

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COTSWOLDS: HIDCOTE GARDEN and CHIPPING CAMPDEN

We’ve had six days of unrelenting sun in London! Monday morning we’re heading to the Cotswolds - a train from Paddington to Moreton-in-Marsh, then a quick taxi to Chipping Campden. Our day started a royal mess when our train was cancelled last minute for a construction issue. Herded aboard the replacement train, we soon realized the new plan included a bus, a wait in Oxford, and a second train - a big time waste! Called tomorrow’s driver, whose brother was just leaving Heathrow. Levi picked us up a few minutes later from our train, drove us to beautiful Hidcote Garden, held our luggage, drove us to our Sawday’s B&B the Woolmarket House, then recommended his favorite Italian restaurant Da Luigi. A great day!

Hidcote is a lovely garden a few miles outside Chipping Campden. Less formal than some of the other big names, pockets of this one might be creatable with only a few hundred new plants instead of thousands.

The Woolmarket House is a great place to stay on the main street in the center of Chipping Campden. Loved cooked-to-order breakfasts delivered to our rooms.

http://pinpointprivatehire.co.uk (Levi and his brother Tamas)
https://www.woolmarkethouse.com
https://www.royal-oak.org/2022/05/21/english-gardens-to-visit/
https://www.daluigi.co.uk

BLENHEIM PALACE

From Chipping Campden to Blenheim Palace is reachable by train and bus in about 2 hours if the stars align, I’ve read, but it takes only about 35 minutes in a car. We called Cookie! [email protected] He got us to the castle when it opened at 10:30, and we were on our pre-booked Downstairs Tour at 11AM.

This was a fascinating small group tour, probably seasonal, explaining how the palace ran in
Churchill days with teams of servants, and with today’s much smaller staff (never called servants!) employed by the current Duke of Marlborough. Afterwards, we went upstairs into the main palace and met a charming docent who filled us in on details of the rooms and tapestries that we would probably have missed. We could have spent hours more there, but we’ve got to get to the circus!
https://www.blenheimpalace.com/

GIFFORD’S CIRCUS

From their website:
“Giffords Circus is a vintage village green circus that tours the UK every summer. Giffords is much more than a Circus, it’s a magical nod to old fashioned circus with a glamorous twist. It’s a side-splitting show directed by comedy genius Cal McCrystal that appeals to both young and old, and with a cult following of local farmers, rock stars and A-list celebrities. Step inside the tent into a colourful madcap world of acrobats, jugglers, horses, musicians, dancers and Tweedy the Clown. A production that would rival any West End show.”

I don’t know when I’ve laughed out loud so hard! And shrieked at the daring of acrobats! Don’t worry, no exotic animals abused here. There is a small herd of Shetland ponies, well loved, and probably overfed with positive re-enforcement treats. Tweedy the Clown is a brilliant entertainer. It all happens under an old school canvas circus tent. High entertainment!
https://giffordscircus.com/

After the circus we walked back across the meadow to the palace to see more of the gardens, the gift shop, and to eat a scone before Cookie picked us up at the main gate. I had asked him to take us by tiny St. Martin’s Church in nearby Bladon where the entire Churchill family is buried. It’s a little too far to walk from Blenheim, and you must look hard to spot the tiny sign, but so interesting to see the memorial stain glass window inside, the black & white photos of the funeral procession, and the white marble tomb where both Sir Winston and Clementine are buried, today covered in wreaths of red poppies from Remembrance Day.

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RYE
Sissinghurst Garden and the Mermaid Inn

Today we’re headed to Rye in East Sussex, 2 miles from the sea and almost two hours from London. It was already a moving parts day with multiple trains, tubes, and taxis, but that all changed with the train strike. I had a day’s warning to figure this one out, and it took us less than five minutes to decide to call Levi, our friendly driver with the big Mercedes van who drove us Monday. A cross country taxi drive might be a stretch for a solo traveler, but split four ways, it made sense. As the projected 3 1/2 drive stretched beyond 5 in the snarled traffic, the Navi diverted us onto plenty of scenic back roads. Levi refused to up his rate for all the added time and aggravation, but we hope we tipped him enough to make his day worthwhile. I can recommend him most highly! Drivers in the Cotswolds get busy, so book early!
http://pinpointprivatehire.co.uk

We’re going to Rye to visit nearby Sissinghurst Garden tomorrow and to stay in the famous (haunted) Mermaid Inn for two nights. The Inn has booked us a driver to the gardens, and to deliver us to Gatwick later on.

SISSINGHURST

Sissinghurst is the large formal garden created by Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson in the early 1930s. It’s in beautiful bloom in June, the month the family has access to the private rooms, and the public doesn’t.
https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/kent/sissinghurst-castle-garden

The Mermaid Inn is a destination, rebuilt in 1420, with cellars dating from the 1100s. Our pretty twin room has ancient, exposed curved beams supporting the tall plaster ceilings, quirky stairs to climb and a low beam to duck on the way to it. Most grateful for the offers to carry our luggage!

We had dinner the first night in their historic restaurant. The food was well-presented and quite good, the young serving staff far out of their league, and none of us had the stamina to make it to dessert, staff or guests. The next night we went to the Standard Inn, our local driver’s favorite, also great food, for a fraction of the first night’s tab.
https://www.mermaidinn.com/
https://www.thestandardinnrye.co.uk/

Our driver arranged by the Mermaid was David Holland, 07702 047006, at David’s Taxi. He’s a self-described retired civil servant, and he enjoys sharing the history of the area. We asked him to show us a bit more on our drive back from Sissinghurst, and he took us to the beach at Camber Sands (everybody’s wearing coats!) and to a touching memorial to a young US WW2 pilot who went down in a field with his plane to avoid crashing into nearby Rye. He mentioned driving guests to the Cliffs of Dover and pickups at Heathrow, so I think he covers a swath of southern England. It was a relief to be dropped at the door at Gatwick rather than taking multiple trains one hoped were actually running on schedule.
[email protected]

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ICELAND

I combined London and Iceland on a trip for a grandson a few years ago and found it a good mix. None of my friends had ever been to Iceland, so they were excited about this adventure. We flew Icelandair out of Gatwick to Reykjavik. Regular seats on Icelandair top Delta Comfort for legroom. We prepaid to check a bag, and ordered a lunch. The ham and cheese baguette for 8£ was so good! I would pay for this on any flight to replace mystery pasta or Delta duck!

Keflavik Airport is still kind of a mess, with waiting passengers lined against the wall by the boarding gate doors, except for the ones sleeping on the floor or sprawled over the very few seats. Then there’s the modern new part, practically empty, where you walk forever, searching for immigration counters, hoping you’re actually heading in the right direction.

Rental car pick-up was a pleasant surprise. Short lines and a helpful agent at Payless. I always rent from gemut.com from Andy, a broker in the US, who is reliable and a phone call away if there’s a problem. Picked up my requested intermediate SUV, exactly what I thought I wanted…until we got it packed. Unpacked it, and upgraded to a supremely comfortable Toyota Land Cruiser. This is a driving trip, and we don’t need to be all crowded in. (And if we’d kept the smaller one, we might have left a wheel in a pothole on the way to a waterfall!) Without a prompt, I added the wind damage coverage, and the agent threw in the free extra driver, just like the last trip.

My first trip to Iceland five years ago, we booked an AirBnB in Reykjavik for 5 nights, and reserved a second hotel for one night at the farthest point we traveled, near Hofn. Now I realize the most beautiful scenery is beyond Reykjavik toward the southeast coast. (Haven’t travelled west yet!) This trip’s plan is to drive from the airport directly to the Golden Circle for our first night and to stay in Reykjavik only the last night before we fly home.

Driving from KEF toward Reykjavik through flat black lava fields in an industrial landscape is not the best introduction to beautiful Iceland. We weren’t on the road until almost five, then stopped at a Bonus supermarket for water and snacks. Self check-out was straight out of comedy central. Every time we made a mistake (the bananas, the sacks, the ripped code tag, not putting something in a sack…) it summoned assistance. The young man was unfailingly patient, the beginning of a trend. Icelanders are just so nice!

GOLDEN CIRCLE

Trying to get on the RS approved clockwise scenic route of the Golden Circle, with his not-to-scale hand-drawn map, is not for the faint hearted. My friend Ann was an awesome navigator with only road numbers and a few turn directions to work with. She got us on the right road, but as soon as we passed over the giant hot water pipe, the road came to an end, big roadblock with no explanation. At this point we just put in the name of the farm where we were headed and gave it over to GoogleMaps.

I remember how few roadside restaurants we saw last trip to Iceland. There are a few more now, but I still would not pass up a gas station or bathroom opportunity. We stopped for dinner at a small restaurant with camping sites, and a name like Mini-burger. Actually had a very good meal of hamburgers, fish & chips, and tomato soup, and the $100 tab was what I expected. Icelandic Krona is still monopoly money to us all, but my friends are not anticipating a budget trip here.

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First night stop is the Árbakki Farmhouse Lodge near Reykholt. It’s a pristine, leave-your-shoes-at-the-front door kind of place, with six rooms and a view, mountains and a gentle stream. They showed us the breakfast room and welcomed us to use the “hot plate” which I think we misunderstood from “hot tub” and missed out on a natural hot spring experience. Comfortable beds, fluffy duvets, and a good breakfast included.
https://arbakki-farmhouse-lodge-reykholt.booked.net/

We were only a few minutes drive from roaring Gullfoss the next morning, the coldest, wettest hour of our 2-week trip. My heart sank a little when icy needles of rain hit us in the parking lot. I do not know why anyone would want to stand close to the actual spray in this weather, but they were out there! We regrouped in the huge gift shop/restaurant, and the weather was dry when we ventured out.

The Geysir geothermal field is only a few miles away, and we watched Strokkur erupt a few times. (It happens so fast you probably won’t catch the first one on your phone!) Half the height of Old Faithful and a fraction of the crowds. On to a soup lunch at the Efstidalur farmhouse, with the ice cream shop overlooking the cows. Lucked out to be in just the right spot to watch a herd of Icelandic horses being ponied to new pastures. Climbed up the Kerid crater to look into the colorful volcanic lake.

SOUTHERN ICELAND, NEAR HELLA

Our hotel tonight is near Hella and we found two crashing, wide waterfalls on the way. Urriðafoss is just off Route 1 in the river Þjórsá, and has the highest average water flow of any waterfall in Iceland. Arbaejarfoss, nearer Hella, is where we could have left a wheel in a pothole. Lovely and untouristed, but you might want to walk in rather than drive. Found both using GoogleMaps to see what might be interesting along our route.

Hotel Laekur is our home for this Saturday night, and we’ll return on Monday on our way back to Reykjavik. My idea of the perfect country hotel, it’s newly renovated and family-owned, out in the countryside down a gravel road beside pastures of shaggy sheep with prancing lambs. So nice to unload at the front door of a ground floor room for a change. Our first night we faced the horses; the last looked out over meadows and the stream. They also have four larger free-standing cottages, a dry sauna, a hot tub, and a scary-sounding ice bath.

Their restaurant serves a short, varied menu at night, including a soup and salad buffet, but the arctic char is even better. Breakfast in the same restaurant is fresh and plentiful. Great beds, friendly staff, and of course it’s all Icelandic pristine. Highest recommendation for this one!
https://www.hotellaekur.is/en-us

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VIK, WATERFALLS, AND BLACK SAND

A perfect sunny Sunday for more waterfalls: pretty green Seljalandfoss (walk behind to get soaked) and massive, thundering, gray Skogafoss (stand far in front and still get wet.) Drove up the Dyrhólaey Promontory (no guardrails!) to the lighthouse for sweeping views over black sand beaches and picturesque natural sea arches. Back down to Vik to the Krónan grocery store on the traffic circle; a great stop for drinks, clean bathrooms, and a quick lunch in the little mall restaurant. Then out to Reynisfajara Beach to touch the black sand at ground level and watch for sneaker waves.

From Vik heading north is one of my favorite drives. If you don’t like the scenery, just give it five minutes, and you’ll see something different! Towering, private backyard waterfalls, glacial tongues, fields of blue lupines, lumpy lava fields covered in gray-green lichen, Icelandic horses, tumbling roadside rivers. All that’s missing are scenic pull-outs!

JOKULSARLON GLACIER LAGOON

Reached this otherworldly landscape late afternoon when the sun was backlighting the floating icebergs. No billboards announce coming attractions in Iceland, so watch for the cars on the left side of the road (if heading north) right before the suspension bridge. There are really no words for this one; just have to see it, or at least Google it for yourself! The bluer the ice, the younger the iceberg. The crystal clear ones have floated the longest. Elusive black dots poking up in the water are seals.

HöFN

We have a two hour drive to our hotel in Höfn tonight. The massive Svínafellsjökull glacier, the largest ice cap in Europe, sneaks through the mountains on the left. There’s a long stretch of bleak glacial drainage delta, where you might be glad you bought the wind and sand damage coverage, before the scenery improves to more Montana-like fields and mountains. Sleeping tonight at the Milk Factory Guesthouse - modern and quiet, with a great breakfast.
https://milkfactory.is/

We asked the hotel desk where we should go for dinner for seafood, and he said there are only three places, all near the harbor. Claimed Pakkhús is the best. We looked a little too road-worn for a $$$$ restaurant, and so glad we chose the Hafnarbúðin diner, crowded with locals, for langoustine baguettes at an outdoor picnic table. We’ve had a long day, but since the sun will be up til 11:45PM we’re sitting out in the sunshine.

DIAMOND BEACH and FJALLSARLON GLACIER LAGOON

We have late morning reservations for a Zodiac boat on Fjallsarlon Glacier Lagoon. About ten miles before we get there, magical Diamond Beach is hidden away on our left, just past the suspension bridge, with no signage at all. The floating icebergs from Jokusarlon drift under the bridge and wash up on the black sand beach. Some are big as Volkswagons, others are crystal clear, lacy chunks small enough to hold.

The boat ride on a glacial lake was a highlight of our trip. They suit you up in warm parkas and pop on an inflatable life vest. The boat takes 8-10 people for almost an hour and a half ride among the floating icebergs. You may experience a chunk of the Vatnajokull glacier calving into the water with a thundering crash. Our guide had just returned a boatload who had experienced an iceberg exploding, something he had never seen in all his years guiding, so he was a little gun-shy about getting us too close, for safety reasons. At the Jokulsarlon lagoon they take huge groups out on massive amphibian boats, but I can’t imaging that being as nice as this personalized float.
https://fjallsarlon.is

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We stopped again at the Krónan in Vik for lunch, Icelandic chocolate, and black lava salt for gifts. Drove to the ferry dock to the Westman Islands to check the schedule. The weather has gone gray and grim, and the ferry takes almost two hours each way. We wanted to see puffins, but iweren’t encouraged that the ticket agent said we “might” see one. Timing just isn’t right this trip. Back to our Hotel Laekur and more arctic char.

REYKJAVIK

After a leisurely breakfast, one last visit to the horses, and packing up, we drove the 90 minutes to Reykjavik, arriving at noon. To the starkly beautiful Hallgrimskirkja, and up the lift for the panoramic view of the city. Their organ was crowd-funded, pipe by pipe, and we emptied all our remaining coins into the slot to fund future upkeep. A short walk downhill to the Reykjavik Fish Restaurant for bowls of fish soup, and to colorful Braud on the same block for their famous cinnamon rolls.
We’re staying at the Center Hotel Plaza right in the middle of downtown on the oldest square. Dozens of interesting shops and galleries surround us, but we’ve all run out of steam and space to pack anything else! I booked upgraded rooms which got us on a higher floor - a good move if you plan to sleep! At 3AM it was still rocking hard in the plaza, but not too disturbing from our 7th floor rooms.
https://www.centerhotels.com/en/hotel-plaza-reykjavik

BLUE LAGOON

Our last hurrah! It’s touristy and expensive and probably not an Icelander in the pool, but an iconic sight you hate to skip, and with a group of friends, it’s plenty of fun. Booked the premium package at 7PM, for the fluffy robes, and my friends all said they were grateful for that, no matter the cost. Uncrowded when we arrived on this Tuesday evening, and even emptier when we left.

We planned an hour to drive there, but GoogleMaps insisted on an alternate route - very scenic, deserted dramatic landscape. I think we were near the recent volcano that erupted.This is a much more interesting way to go if you have time for it, but we were panicking about missing our time slot. (Forty minutes late and no problem.)

We got three mud masks - green, black, and white - and I got them all in my eyes. Soaked in the warm blue water for about an hour and a half, then drew straws to decide who would make the shivery run back to the lockers for a cell phone. Asked a fellow bather to take a group picture or us, and we’re soon back in our dry clothes, almost too relaxed to drive home.

HOME RUN

Early wake up and sleepy drive to drop the rental car. Avis drove us to the arrivals hall in their van and we were through the Delta check in quickly. A final skyr for breakfast and we’re on our way to JFK on the June 7, flight 247, with the nicest comfort and economy flight crew I’ve experienced in ages.

Will try not to ruin my trip by recalling how bad JFK was, but landed the afternoon the Manhattan sky turned orange from the forest fires, and maybe the smoke affected workers’ dispositions.

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SPLITTING COSTS WITH PLASTIC

I make all the reservations and pay for the hotels, car, trains, tickets, anything that can be booked ahead. My friends Venmo me their share before we leave home. After that we’ve always worked out of a ziplock bag of cash, to be replenished as necessary. We don’t bother with who ate/drank what. The only rule is that I don’t have to touch the money once we’re on our way - my idea of a vacation.

We each travelled with a few hundred BPS and two took a much smaller amount of Icelandic currency. UK taxi drivers always appreciated cash, but it was otherwise mostly unnecessary. In Iceland there was only one waterfall bathroom that required hard cash.

AMEX was useful sometimes, and VISA always. Got very good at waving those VISA cards at checkouts.

To keep up with who was in for how much, we used the app Splitwise, which worked brilliantly, especially with our traveling CPA in charge of it. At the end of the trip it told each of us how much we owed each other person. Venmo, and done!

Another fine adventure in the books. Love these trips with my besties.

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Sounds like a great trip! Iceland won me over after our first trip, and we head back for our 5th next month. So much to see and never enough time;)

Splitwise is what I use when traveling with friends as well. We did a girls trip this winter and it made everything so easy.

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Mikliz,
I'd love to know what you've seen in Iceland! Have you been west?

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Ruth--We have seen a lot, but there is still so much to see. Our first trip was in 2015 just a 3 day stopover. Then we did the ring road in 2021 for 12 nights, then in Feb. 2022 we did almost a week and did some of the south coast again, and then Oct. 2022 we did almost a week again and hit the south coast again. This upcoming trip is 17 days. Ten of those will be in a camper van up in the Westfjords, then 3 days in Thorsmark, 3 days on Westmann Island and then the last night in Selfoss. Even on the ring road trip where it sounds like 12 days is plenty of time, it really isn't. We did hit as many lagoons as we could, hiked Hengifoss, did a guided kayak fishing trip in Grundarfjordur, and did the zodiac boat tour at jokuklsarlon. A couple places that we loved and were off the ring road were Dettifoss on the east side (like driving on the moon) and Bustarfell for the turf houses. After Bustarfell, we did not backtrack and instead took road 917 which we survived, but there were moments we wondered if we would. Apparently it is the highest pass I the country and the grades were 15%, no guardrails and no shoulders of course, and gravel. Numerous hairpin turns. That would be fine in good weather, which it was when we started. However once up on the pass with nowhere to turn around, heavy fog set in. Yes, white knuckle driving is not just a myth. Our adult son was driving and his knuckles were white! I did not comment until we made it over the pass safely.

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Great TR! Ya’ll are really making me want to go to Iceland and it is so easy to get to from where I live. And yes, we love Iceland Air (but, not the KEF airport)!

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Great info Mikliz! Thx so much. Never though fishing might be possible!!

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Ruth--It was s much fun! On our upcoming trip, we are toying with the idea of buying a rod and license and going ourselves. I know a few campgrounds specifically that have lakes by them that you can fish in.

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Another entertaining trip report filled with useful travel tips! I’m so glad you enjoyed so much sun in England, I believe I lived through the April rains so my friends could enjoy their trips to England in May.

You accomplished so many fun outings, from gardens to castles and circuses. You are an expert planner. And, the wonders of Iceland, it seems you have only scraped the surface. Your friends are fortunate indeed.