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From Skye to Shetland

Day 1
We set off from Skye bright and early for the 7 hour drive to Aberdeen. Stopped for lunch at McDonalds on the edge of Nairn. Not ideal, but we only wanted a quick pit stop and the loos were extremely clean. Then, running early for the ferry, we paused again at JG Ross Bakers just outside Inverurie, off the A96 at Highclere. https://www.jg-ross.co.uk This is a wonderful find. A small grocery store with takeaway food and other supermarket provisions, but the hidden gem is their large bakery café/restaurant, which serves breakfast and lunch. We were too late for lunch but were able to partake of cake and coffee. It was really excellent and not expensive. We then proceeded to the ferry terminal, but were still too early, so parked up in the Union Square shopping centre just opposite the terminal and went for a browse. Then back to the ferry terminal and onto the ferry for our overnight sailing to Lerwick, Shetland.
We were travelling with our own car and it’s worth bearing in mind that this ferry has a ‘lower’ car deck which is quite difficult to park on. You have to drive down a very steep ramp and you are then guided into position by the crew. The cars are parked extremely close together and it can be tricky to get out of (and back into) your car. Disembarking involves a tricky reversing move to get into position to drive back up the ramp. For the return we asked to be positioned on the main car deck – much better, and apparently what the locals do.
We had opted for an executive two berth cabin, which turned out to have bunk beds! Not idea for us more mature travellers! But Mr Skyegirl (let’s call him Skyeboy) elected for the upper berth. The cabin was well equipped with ensuite shower room, with basin and WC, tea and coffe making facilities and a porthole. But best of all it came with access to the Magnus Lounge. This gave us free soft and hot drinks and table service for dinner (instead of self service cafeteria). You still have to pay for the meals but the atmosphere is quieter. Two glasses of wine/beer per person are also included in access to the Magnus Lounge. As is a continental (cold) breakfast in the morning before docking.
I chose fish and chips and Skyeboy had the ‘special’ which was beef pie served with chips and peas. For pudding he had Eton Mess and I had ice cream.

Then outside to the upper deck to watch Aberdeen recede into the distance, particularly interesting is the historic village of Footdee (not surprisingly at the mouth of the river Dee) and the sunset.

A smooth crossing and decent sleep, followed by continental breakfast in the Magnus Lounge at 0630. Then at 0730 we docked in Lerwick and disembarked. It’s worth pointing out that the crossing can be made without a car. On board accommodation varies from reclining seats in a lounge, to ‘pods’ (which look not much better than the seats), inside cabins without porthole, and outside cabins. There are various car hire options in Shetland, but Bolts seemed to be the one we saw most of.

We weren’t going to be able to access our holiday cottage until 4pm, so had a day to ‘kill’. We drove south to Sumburgh Head and drove up to the lighthouse car park but it was way too windy and rainy, so we sat in the car and watched the seabirds buffeted by the wind. Then back to Lerwick for lunch in the Isleburgh Community Café. This is a hidden gem run by the local council. It’s in a community centre and there were lots of activities such as music groups and kids dance classes going on as it was a Saturday morning. You have to ‘book’ a table, but this can be done at reception as you enter the building. A rather odd quirk! Anyhow, we decided to have an ‘all day Scottish breakfast’ for our lunch, so bacon, sausage, eggs, toast, mushroom, tattie scone, tomato, black pudding and baked beans. All very good and washed down with tea and coffee. A bargain at about £10 each including drinks.
More to come...

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Day 2
We decided to head north on Shetland Main Island to North Mavine, the narrowest point of the island. Our plan was to walk (from our book of ‘40 Coast and Country Walks in Shetland’) to an ancient burial chamber, but part way through the weather closed in and we headed back to the car. Lunch was fish and chips at the famous Frankies in Brae, followed by a wander around Lerwick, focussing on wool/yarn shops and what we thought were the only two charity shops (Red Cross and Cancer Research) in town. We later discovered we were wrong about this!

Day 3
Brilliant weather today and perfect for our 25 minute trip on the ferry, from Laxo (Shetland mainland), to the island of Whalsay, population about 1,000. The island claims the most northerly golf course in the UK and a few yards away from the club house is Whalsay’s airstrip.
There was also a charity shop, ‘Shoard’, and today just happened to be one of the three half-days it was opened. It was extremely well stocked and very well organised. It was fascinating listening to and talkin’ with the locals - the accent, pronunciation and some of the vocabulary are completely different from anything else I’ve heard anywhere in Scotland - presumably the Norse influence. Next it was a visit to the Heritage Centre in Symbister, Whalsay’s main settlement. The centre was very quiet, so the two wardens had us completely to themselves and they gave us a detailed history of Whalsay’s fishing and knitwear industry, illustrated with loads of photos and artifacts. It was interesting to learn about all the family connections - in fact, the docents were themselves related and appeared, at various stages of their lives, in many of the Heritage Centre’s photo displays. The male docent had joined a fishing trawler, from school, back in the 1960s, of the 7 crew only 3 were still alive but all 3 still lived on Whalsay.
I had an impromptu lesson in traditional Shetland lace knitting from Linda, the other docent, who is a knitting pattern designer, runs sessions at Wool Week. She showed me how to knit using very long double pointed needles, one of which is tucked into a leather belt that is stuffed with horsehair.

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Day 4
All of Shetland seemed to be covered in a blanket of sea mist. It proved very difficult to escape. Visibility wise Hillswick beach was pretty good so we spent an hour or so looking for ‘sea glass’. Most of what we found were fragments of clear class with the occasional piece of green. Then it was off to Frankie’s chippy, in Brae, for lunch and after, a hike around Muckle Roe. This small island is linked to the main island by a bridge. There is a lovely sandy bay and if we’d been inclined for a longer walk and if the weather had been more favourable we could have reached a lighthouse…. But we didn’t!

Day 5
A warm sunny day for our drive to Eshaness and Steness, at the north western edge of the main island. We drove out to the lighthouse, and had a wander along the cliffs. Then some beachcombing at Steness nearby. This was once a bustling herring port. But now only a ruined hut remains. Then visited the small, interesting museum at Tangwick Haa, which gives a sense of life in earlier times, and includes some excellent knitting displays. Then coffee and cake at nearby Braewick campsite with stunning views of the coast and dramatic rock stacks. Then back home via Hillswick Beach for more seaglass hunting, the ‘Original Cake Fridge’ (one of many ‘honesty’ box operations) and Tingwall Airport (we find small remote airfields quite interesting and this one connects the islands of Foula and Fair Isle to Shetland mainland). The warm. sunny day came to an end on arriving back in Burra where the thick sea mist had returned.

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Day 6
The weather was still misty so we decided to stay closer to home, with a visit to the Shetland Textile Museum, housed in the Böd of Gremista. For knitting and weaving fans this is an absolute must. They were getting ready for Shetland Wool Week, which was to take place two weeks after our visit. Lots of interesting displays and plenty of local knitted items to buy. The two main knitting styles are stranded colour work, known as Fair Isle, and very fine knitting with patterns incorporating holes, known as Shetland Lace. We had a lunch at No88 in Commerical Stree, a very reliable restaurant choice. Then up to Jamieson and Smith’s yarn shop which is tucked away on North Road in Lerwick. We finished the day with a trip to Lerwick’s very own charity shop, the fantastic COPE, which in addition to the usual charity shop fare also has a garden centre.

Day 7
Some sun at last, so a walk to Minn Beach at southern tip of Burra. This is a wonderful sandy bay and we’d kayaked to the stony side of the peninsula on our last trip. This has been used many times as a location for the Shetland TV series. We crossed the beach and climbed the hill on the other side for great views of the dramatic cliffs, pounded by the waves. There are lots of old ruined, stone buildings from the 19th century. And quite a bit of sheep poop! Dinner at Da Haaf was a lovely way to end this first part of our trip.

The next day would see us packing up for the next stage of our trip. Two ferries to take us up to Unst, the furthest north part of the UK. Known as The Island Above All Others. More to come........

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1517 posts

Very informative and entertaining report. I could feel the misty weather! I'll have to bookmark this!

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7937 posts

Jacqui, this has been wonderful to read. With all the knitting, yarn, and lace you’ve encountered, I don’t suppose you’ve seen any ponies wearing sweaters? Have there been Shetland Ponies at all, with or without sweaters?

And the Scottish Breakfast … what, no haggis?!? So, how “Scottish” is the baked beans part? And did the absence of a heated slice of tomato distinguish that breakfast from a “Full English?”

Looking forward to reading more; thanks again!!

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4807 posts

Thank you for taking us along on your trip! You (and Pam) are cementing my desire to get to the Shetlands! (And Orkney)

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33818 posts

so glad that you posted this - with such helpful details. Thanks Skyegirl

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7976 posts

I am enjoying this so much! Shetland is at the very top of my Scotland list, and I plan on heading there sometime in the next few years. Your words just made me want to get there even faster. Such detail! You and Mike should co-write a book about Scotland.

I love the executive room on board the ferry. That sounds like a really nice idea. Was it terribly expensive? Even so, it might be worth it. Many years ago I took the overnight ferry from Athens to Crete, and decided to just get a deck ticket. Big mistake. I couldn't sleep or even find room to sit. It was awful. When I took the ferry back a week later, I opted for a cabin, and it was worth every penny.

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Cyn there are Shetland ponies in abundance. I’m not a horsey person and always think they look a bit miserable standing in the wind and rain. Apparently they have a precocious nature and quite a nasty bite. Not to be petted!

If you want to see more of Shetland, especially Unst, which is the Island Above All Others, then you might be able to find an old BBC documentary series called an Island Parish. Unst is the focus of series 11. I’ve found a dodgy copy on You Tube that has the sound running very slowly and the picture is condensed too, so not really watchable. But it’s a gem if you can find a good copy. Shetland ponies feature heavily as one of the islanders in the series breeds and shows them.

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Mardee our round trip ferry cost about £500. We didn’t have an executive cabin for the return. Instead we opted for an outside two berth. It had two beds (not bunks) but no lounge access. Prices vary depending on date, so it’s hard to know what it would have cost without the lounge access. Some passengers were trying to access the lounge without the appropriate ticket and were told it would cost them £50 each. I suspect it didn’t cost us that much. This was our second trip to Shetland and we’ve always had lounge access. But after the return this time without lounge access, I think we will just book an outside cabin without lounge access next time. And there will definitely be a next time!

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1349 posts

I think the foot passenger fare is outstandly cheap, its likely about to drop now its out of the " summer season"
There's a recentish youtube of a guy who went on the freight boat too.