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France: Paris/Normandy/Loire/Beune/Provence/Lyon May 8-28, 2024

It’s been a few months, so I’m not sure if this report is relevant (and memory is getting fuzzy).

My wife and I began a 2-½ month trip with a month in France partly due to a killer 20k mile Air France frequent flyer flight from Seattle to Paris. Another reason we began here is I consider France a tie with Italy as my favorite country in Europe. Aside from a handful of trips over the years, I visited France often while living in Stuttgart one hour east of the border.
Since France is well-covered by trip reports, I will only touch on a few things I feel noteworthy - mostly screw-ups on my part from a lack of planning (we are almost full-time travelers so I don’t plan like I used to). Also, having been to France so many times, I think I was over confident in my travel knowledge which I found to be outdated. The newest edition of the RS France guidebook was due to come out a few days after our trip ended so I grudgingly bought the almost year old version.

Departure from the US...

On the drive to the Seattle airport we found out our Air France flight was canceled and we were re-booked on Delta seven hours later. The Air France website/app is excellent as far as flight delay/cancellation compensation with a simple form to complete (in a few weeks received a $600 payment). Because I had not purchased passes or made museum reservations for Paris, and original arrival was early am before hotel check-in, the delayed arrival was a non-issue.

Paris

I have a love-hate relationship with Paris - amazing museums and sights, but overly congested and exhausting to visit. Since my wife had never been, I wanted to hit the highlights with her. A few random lessons learned/tips;

  • As I looked into site visits I realized reservations are now required in most places. My initial plan was to skip the museum pass since web feedback seemed to indicate fewer passholder slots exist. That was the case for Versailles on our date of choice, so I paid for a visit w/out museum pass. Later, checking another site, it was the opposite - no slots to buy, but pass holder slots available. Frustratingly, I bought the museum pass which meant I ate the Versaille visit cost previously purchased ( I could have changed visit date and used the pass). That was all a bit of a mess likely avoidable with better advance planning.

  • We also bought a Passions Monument annual pass to complement the museum pass. We used it a few days before validating the museum pass giving us flexibility for some of the overlapping sites. We also used it later in the trip as it was not limited to a few days like the museum pass.

  • After a late afternoon Concierge visit, we wandered over to Sainte-Chapelle and were happy to gain entrance shortly before closing without a reservation (used the Monuments Pass). That was great as our reserved slot a few days later was undesirable.

  • The Versaille garden add-on is not worth doing as far as I am concerned. I’ve visited the palace a handful of times and seem to forget this fact every time I go.

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Normandy
Picked up a rental car at Gare de Lyon on a Sunday and headed to Normandy for a first-time visit for both of us. Bayeux was a relaxing first overnight after Paris. We established our Normandy plan on the fly in the car by listening to a RS podcast. With only 1 day, the podcast suggested Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery, and the Airborne museum. That was an excellent recommendation which we followed, and I enjoyed the war history much more than I expected - a moving experience.

We spent the night near Mont St-Michel with the intent to get a head start in the morning. Plan didn’t really work as we were slow to get going, but it wasn’t a huge burden other than a little wait for the bus. I have visited many religous sites in Europe but Mont St-Michel did not disappoint. After the visit we made a quick stop in Dinan before ending up in Chinon.

Loire Valley

Having spent a few days in Chinon on a previous trip, which I loved, we used that as our base. I love this small town which is easily walkable to wineries, bakeries, and so on. We booked a very nice apartment which was quite reasonable - which was the case throughout France outside of the big cities.

We visited a few Chateaux and a winery on day 1. Day 2 I wanted to try something different - and use the monument pass - so we drove west to Angers to see the Château d'Angers (monuments pass valid) which has a famous tapestry. On the way we stopped at Distillerie Combier in Saumur - a pretty town worthy of a longer visit - for a tour we reserved on-line the day prior. Since the tour is only in french, which wasn’t obvious on the website, on arrival they refunded our 10 euro fee and gave us english notes to read along the way. The highlight for me, a retired structural engineer, was seeing some original structure designed by Eiffel's company which had the familiar lattice structure.

Beune

I love this area and wanted to spend a few more days here than my last visit years ago. I also wanted to try a Gîtes de France accommodation, and in one of my bigger blunders of the trip I ended up booking a place East of Beune which is flat and pretty boring farmland. I thought I was booking in the gorgeous vineyard area closer to/West of Beune. The gite was OK, just not in the area I had hoped.

We spent a day in Dijon and enjoyed a very good lunch, strolled the town, and visited the large wine tasting venue Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin (way too much fun).

The following day in Beune we hit the usual RS sights (driving tours, etc.). Beune itself was busier than anticipated for a Sunday, but we realized later we were there over one of several holiday long weekends in May. Our highlight was the picnic we had along one of the small country roads busy with bicyclists. We parked in a random spot and with some wine and food we had a picnic on a retaining wall in the shade of a tree overlooking the vineyards. Très bien!

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Sablet

A return to a Provence village I loved years ago when passing through on a RS drive route. The place is tiny but perfect as a base for the area. We had one of our best apartments of the trip with the daily aroma of a bakery two floors below. We did some long day trips from Sablet which I would probably split up towns on a return visit similar to my original 10 day trip to Provence.
E-biking is very popular and I regret only doing it on our last day. We booked a Friday only English E-mountain bike tour through the Gigondas wine cooperative Gigondas Lacave. It was a fabulous ride with stunning scenery and several stops to hear about the geology, vineyards, etc. The tour ends back at the wine co-op for a wine tasting. Perfect!

Lyon

Based on feedback from the RS forum, there are some very scenic roads between Provence and Lyon which we intended to hit. Unfortunately, on the final leg of a long drive, I followed google maps rather than taking what would have been the most scenic route of the day. I realized the mistake too late but we were pressed for time to drop the rental car so we had no choice but to press on. That was a big bummer, but I hope to someday return and do it right.

We loved Lyon as a smaller version of Paris. Lots to see and do, great wine of course, and excellent food. We could easily return for more of the city.

After a few days in Lyon we flew to Bucharest for the next phase of our trip exploring Central Europe…see follow-on trip reports.

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