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Four Nation Vacation

My report is a bit lengthy and you might not get through it all but I want to mention the following cities as real gems that we visited 1) Budingen, 2) Marburg and 3) Vianden. If not for the helpline I likely would not have known about, been drawn to, or just driven by these places. If you are near any of these cities try to stop for a visit. Also, thank you to everybody who responded to my questions as it helped me shape this journey.

This summer 2013 vacation was initiated by our daughter's participation in her high school German class student exchange program. The plan was for me and my wife to explore Iceland for three days before flying to Frankfurt to pick up our daughter, and then visit the German girls we hosted in 2011 and 2012. After that we would drive along the Mosel to Trier, then on to Vianden, Luxembourg City, Verdun, Reims and then conclude the trip with five days in Paris.

Day 1 - Arrive at Keflavik at 6:30AM. Pick up rental car. Sunny weather and mid 50’s. Do Golden Circle tour. Thingvellur: I’m not much of a history buff but try to do a little reading up on the places I am going to visit so I read Egils Saga for some historical background. Walking between the European and North American plates was pretty cool. There are easy trails with beautiful scenery with waterfalls, lakes, distant mountains, and gin clear water. We spent about two hours walking the trails and reading historical plaques before moving on to Geysir. The Strokkur geyser did not disappoint and was the star of the place, erupting every 6 minutes or so. Sometimes a beautiful, large deep blue eye would form just prior to eruption. There are other geothermal features to enjoy and you can hike up the hill for a panoramic view of the area. Gulfoss is a large and beautiful multi-tiered waterfall with a couple trails to viewpoints to admire it from. You can also sign up to ride Icelandic horses there but we passed on that since we didn’t plan on it and did not want to have to do laundry right away. By now it's late in the afternoon, we're feeling a bit jet lagged so decide to head back to Reykjavik, check into our apartment and go grocery shopping. Luckily there was a Bonus just down Laugavegur street that was still open so we could stock up for our stay.

Day 2 - Another decent day so we decided to drive up to the Snaefellsnes peninsula. For timekeepers it took 2.5 hours to get to Helnar using the tunnel shortcut. We drove the loop around the peninsula stopping at various sights before heading south on 56 and then back to Reykjavik for a little over 13 hours from start to finish of this roadtrip. First stop was the visitor center to determine what sights to stop at with our limited time. Down the hill was a little cafe that was famous for their fish soup so we had lunch sitting outdoors with a beautiful view of the cliffs. We then walked along the sea cliffs to Arnarpasti and back. Other favorites were the beach with the lava pearls which made an enchanting clacking sound as the waves receded, Skardsvik beach that looked very tropical with the multi-hued blues of the water, and Saxholl crater which looks like a mini volcano that you hike to the top to view the crater. It’s a very scenic drive with mountains as a backdrop with many high, narrow waterfalls. Only one time did Mt. Snaefellsnes (from Jules Verne “Journey to the Center of the Earth” fame) reveal its peak which was normally obscured by wave after wave of clouds.

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Day 3 - First up is the Blue Lagoon. The "standard" costs 40 euro. Not cheap, but it is something we wanted to do and really enjoyed the warm water and relaxing atmosphere. Our hair didn't frizz out like some guidebooks suggested if we got our hair wet. The silica mud to rub on your face is available at stations containing buckets of the mud and ladles to scoop it out with. There’s also a wade up bar for refreshments. We stayed for an hour and then took photographs from the viewing areas prior to leaving for our city tour. We wandered about the city on foot the rest of the day visiting Hallgrimskirkja and going to the top for a panoramic bird’s eye view of the city and then walked down to the harbor for a hot dog lunch at BBP, where Bill Clinton ate, and they are as good as other posters have stated, then over to the solar voyager sculpture, a walk through the Harpa building, over to Tjornin Lake and then walking through various neighborhoods until it was time for a wonderful dinner at Icelandic Fish and Chips.

I hope to get back to Iceland to experience the southern coast and Reykjavik museums that we missed out on. I liked the skyrr (yogurt), Egils Appelsin soda, and the smoked lamb cold cuts. Driving in Iceland was easy but we stayed on main roads and the car we had wasn't allowed on the F class roads. Finding parking near our apartment took about 5 to 10 minutes each night and was free from 6PM to 10AM so we only had to pay a few kroner for parking during our Day 3 afternoon walk.

Day 4 – Depart Keflavik at 6:25AM and arrive at Frankfurt at 12:25PM. Pick up the rental car (Ford Galaxy van) and head for Budingen. It took 50 minutes and several traffic delays were encountered, especially the narrow country roads getting stuck in behind slow trucks. I've been to Rothenburg and loved it and I think that experience helped me to really appreciate the quiet and solitude at Budingen. Budingen is an intact medieval city with a small museum and a TI with a recommended walking tour. We didn’t take the tour since we wanted to wander on our own. There are restaurants and shops but not the suffocating crowds of Rothenburg during tour bus time. If you are in the Frankfurt area this is a must see place. I would even skip Frankfurt sights to see this place if time was limited.

Day 5 - Pick up daughter at airport and bid farewell to her classmates as they head home. Took the train into town and visited the Main Tower for views of the city, walked through Romerburg which was setting up for a triathlon, and had apple wine on a barge in the sachsenhausen area before heading back to the airport to get the car and drive to the home of the family that hosted our daughter, and whose daughter Mariel we hosted during Easter break of 2012. We went out to dinner at the Golden Apple before returning to their home for the evening for conversation and more drinks before calling it a night.

Day 6 - Mariel's last day of school ended early so she joined us for a Rhine drive from Koblenz to Rudesheim along the east bank. First stop was Ehrenbreitstein castle and a gondola ride down to the Deutsche Ecke. This was a convenient stop because I could visit two sights without having to drive/park a 2nd time. The next stop was Marksburg castle and the tour guide gave the best castle tour I've ever been on. Good humor and he got the children involved by telling them stories and letting them take turns carrying the castle keys. And finally on to find the Loreley statue. The GPS took us to the museum at the top of the hill which required taking 497 steps down to the river to see the statue and curse at the conveniently located parking lot off the river road. Then it was back up the hill and on the road to complete our drive to Rudesheim and then back to Frankfurt for a barbecue with the host family.

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Day 7 - Now it was time to say goodbye to Mariel's family and drive to Schonberg to visit Anna (who we hosted during Easter break of 2011) and her family. We had two GPS units, our own and the built in unit and neither could deliver us to Anna's house. Both systems wanted me to drive through grassy fields behind the houses. Luckily one of the German students who visited our high school and was joining us for the day walked by and guided us to Anna's house. After lunch we loaded up two vans full of people and headed to Marburg. This city has a very beautiful old town with half-timbered houses and a castle up on the hill. The host family’s niece is a student at the college and acted as a tour guide for us showing us around the old town, church and castle. The views from the castle are awesome overlooking the old town and valley. Afterwards, it was back to Anna's house for dinner, conversation and guess what, more drinks.

Day 8 - Most of the host's family members play in a band and were participating in a church fair so after breakfast we headed to the fair for the morning pint. It was a fun day with plenty of music, drinks and soaking in the village atmosphere. An evening barbecue, with more drinks, wrapped up the day.

Day 9 - Now it was time to start our journey toward Paris. We drove to Burg Eltz for photo's and walking the trails (we had taken the tour in 2006). Then it was on to Cochem and a visit to the Cochem castle and tour and then shopping and dinner and then on to Bilestein to hike up to the castle and visit the Jewish cemetery before heading to our hotel in Landkern 7km up the hill from Cochem. Our hotel was across the street from a massive church and the cemetery had lighted candles at each gravesite, a very nice touch.

Day 10 - Drove down the Mosel to Trier and visited the Porta Nigra, baths, museums, ampitheater and churches. I figured we would spend a couple hours in Trier but there were so many sights to see we were there about 5 hours. Next on the list was Vianden, Luxembourg. It was about an hour from Trier and we got their just minutes before the last chairlift to the top. By riding the chairlift you were rewarded with wonderful views of the castle and city below. There is a fountain in the river by the bridge that creates a rainbow effect. After dinner by the river it was off to our hotel in Luxembourg City.

Day 11 – First stop was Patton's grave at the American Cemetery and then to the city center to explore the city. We should’ve visited the German cemetery just down the road but were in a hurry, as usual, so headed for the city center. Unfortunately we encountered gridlock a few times and had difficulty finding parking. The monitors showed spaces were available, we just couldn't find the lots. I finally found a surface lot. We spent about two hours in the Point Adolphe area and shopping along the pedestrian streets before heading on to Verdun France to visit the World War I battlefields and memorials. We stopped at the Duomonte memorial, Fort Duomonte and the Trenches of Bayonets. You could easily spend a day or more visiting this site if you are into WWI history. Now it’s late afternoon and our next stop is Reims, France for dinner and sleep. There was a lighting of the cathedral at 23:00 but after dinner it was time for bed.

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Day 12 - Start the day with a champagne tour of the Taittinger facility. Then it was on to Epernay to visit Moet & Chandon and get our picture taken with the statue of Dom Perignon. Now it's on to Paris. Our apartment was near the Arts et Metiers metro stop and we found the place but trying to find parking was a definite problem. There were plenty of illegal spots and after I had had enough of driving around I just parked in a no parking zone, transferred the luggage to the apartment as fast as we could, and then off to find the rental car drop off point. Then it was grocery shopping, a home cooked meal, walk around our “home” neighborhood and then time for bed.

Day 13 - Picked up the Paris Museum Pass at the Arts et Metiers museum because it was nearby and not known as a major site so we wouldn't have to wait in like to get a pass. It turns out this is a wonderful museum showing measurement, engineering and construction technologies. My wife and I are engineers so really enjoyed this museum. Next up is a walk through Tuileries Garden and then on to the d' Orsay which is my favorite museum in Paris because of the art and manageable size. Pass holders use the entry to the right and we got in with no waiting. After lunch it was on to the Orangerie where there was no separate line for passholders but it only took four minutes to get through security. Now on to the Louvre. We used the underground Carousel entrance and there was no waiting. The Louvre is overwhelming so should be visited in chunks. We selected our favorites and must sees and spent aobut two hours getting our fill. I just don’t get the popularity of the Mona Lisa.

Day 14 - Start the day at St. Chappelle. 3 minute wait to get through security at 11am. Then on to Notre Dame where there was an intimidating line to get inside but it moved quickly and took only 7 minutes to get inside. We wanted to climb the tower but the line was long and the staff guessed it would be about a two hour wait so we decided to come back later that night since it was open late. While in the area we checked out the archeological crypt, deportation museum, concierge and the street vendors along the Seine. Then it was on to the Arc de Triomphe for the views, some sections at the top were roped off since film crews were setting up for the National Day parade the next day. Then on to the Quay du Branly museum for a brief visit. At 7:00PM we headed over to the Eiffel tower to take the stairs to the 2nd level and then buying tickets to the summit. It was a 45 minute wait to get to the stairs. Sign boards showed the summit being closed from time to time during our wait due to capacity issues which caused delays for everybody. The climb was easy and we spent time at both platforms on the way up and down to relax and take pictures. The wait in line for the summit tickets was about 30 minutes and then another 15 minutes for the line to the elevator. Our total time at the tour was over 3 hours so half of that time was waiting in line. I’m not a patient linewaiter but it was a wonderful evening being able to watch the sunset from the summit and watching the tower light up shortly after that. I'm sure the light show is better from the ground but it was cool being up there with all the lights flashing. By then it was too late to get back to Notre Dame to climb the tower so we'll have to try this another time.

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Could this wait have been minimized ? I'm sure it would've been shorter on Thursday night (our first night in town but we decided to take care of domestic duties instead). We didn't order advance tickets because we didn't know what day we wanted to visit, or what the weather was going to be like during our stay. But with advance tickets when the summit is closed you may not get to the summit at the time you expected so you might want to add some buffer time if you plan on doing something after the tower visit. I'm the only morning person in my family so getting to any sight early is not an option. So sometimes we get to wait. It wasn't that bad since the weather was nice and we talked to other people in line about their holiday's and sightseeing strategies.

Day 15 - National Day. We spent the morning at a flea market and then the rest of the day at Versailles (garden only). It was fountain day so that was fun to see. Other posters had criticized the sound system but I thought it was fine.

Day 16 - Visited Sacre Couer and climbed to the top for the view. Enjoyed the Monmartre neighborhood the most since it was so lively. Stopped at the Dali Museum before moving on and since it was our last day the girls wanted to do some shopping in the Opera neighborhood before heading back to the apartment and packing for our trip home.

Day 17 – Homeward bound through Keflavik. We were all very tired and ready to go home. This was our best European trip with plenty of variety from the natural beauty of Iceland, the city sights of Paris, the rural sights and villages of all the countries we visited, driving along the Rhine and Mosel and the cultural experiences staying with two different families, with different lifestyles in Frankfurt and Schonberg.

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Thanks very much, Bob, for posting this most comprehensive and informative report. Thanks for taking the extra effort to consolidate it. I hadn't read the seperate reports before.

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Glad to hear that you enjoyed Büdingen. It is such a wonderful little town.

Great trip report. Thanks for sharing this. I just flew Iceland Air last month and am now planning on visiting there the next time. Looks so exciting and so different.

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Thankyou, the report is much easier to follow now.

I'm also glad you enjoyed Büdigen and Marburg. I'm probably biased, but I think you can find some of the most scenic areas and towns in all of Germany within a 150 km radius of Frankfurt. Next trip, check out Fritzlar. It's the final nail in the coffin to the idea that Rothenburg odT is one-of-a-kind.

"Now it was time to say goodbye to Mariel's family and drive to Schonberg to visit Anna" Could you specify a little closer which town you refer to here? There's several locations in Germany named either "Schönberg" or "Schönburg".

"We had two GPS units, our own and the built in unit and neither could deliver us to Anna's house. Both systems wanted me to drive through grassy fields behind the houses." I have found this happens quite frequently in Germany. It's why I usually recommmend following road signs above all, and using the GPS as a back-up. Of course, unlike a hotel or restaurant, I'm sure there was no "Haus Anna" to guide you.

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Tom - From ViaMichelin it’s Schonberg 56462, near Hohn. Hope this helps. As for where we were in Frankfurt it was Morfelden-Walldorf 64546. Who knows, I might have been in the same neighborhood as some of the Frankfurt helpliners.

Now maybe you can help me find the name of a village near Schonberg we visited. It has a small zoo/park with a steel lookout tower. It’s only about 90 steps to the top of the tower, not too high but still nice views. It has a plaque at the top showing direction and distance to major cities in Germany. Bonus question – what’s the name of the restaurant next to the zoo which has an excellent woodwork structure inside and out and is famous for something but I don’t recall what it is. For some reason I think its cheese. Of course I could ask the family we stayed with but that would be too easy.

GPS has guided me through a corn field to get to the Burg Eltz parking lot, across a stream (yes, they built a road so you would have to cross a stream) to get to our cabin in Ouchita State Park in Arkansas, put me on the tram tracks in Oslo (why was I the only one driving on this road ?), to the doorstep of our hotel in Lucerne (though we didn’t know it because the hotel had changed names) and many other “this can’t be right” moments. For the most part they work pretty well, but there are times … so we always bring maps just in case.

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"GPS has guided me through a corn field to get to the Burg Eltz" I know exactly where you're talking about. For me, that was the final time I trusted a GPS over simply following the road signs.

Can't help you on your Schönberg, though. I thought you may have referred to this Schönberg, which is near where I live, but I don't know the one you visited.