My husband and I just returned from our 10-day trip to Amsterdam (4 nights), Bruges (2 nights) and Haarlem (4 nights) and I thought I’d share some details for others planning a similar trip. Overall, there is very little I would change in terms of our itinierary. We found this to be a very satisfying mix of museums, “immersion” kinds of experiences, indoor and outdoor experiences. We felt the pacing to be very doable and not overwhelming. We made time for a day trip from Amsterdam, and 2 day trips from our home base in Haarlem, and I’m glad we did. This post refers only to our first 4 days and nights in Amsterdam. Bruges and Haarlem are in separately posted topics.
DAY 1: Arrived Schiphol airport 11:00 am, train to Amsterdam. Picked up IAmsterdam Card at north entrance of train station. This card is a must; reserve one online and pick up when you get to A’dam--it covers most museums, including both the Rijks and Van Gogh (you must pre-reserve an entry time for VGogh ahead of time). We also really liked convenience of using IAM card to get on and off trams! Checked into apartment in Jordaan. THIS is a great neighborhood—best location, loved staying here and would again. Lunch at Café t’Smalle—recommend!--a lovely spot. Did 5:00 Boat tour with Those Dam Boat Guys—wonderful way to relax, they do a great, fun job! Our guide was also quite knowledgeable about the city. Ate fabulous pizza at La Perla, short walk from boat drop-off. This is a great restaurant area in general, recommended by RS (Twseede Egelantiersdwarsstraat, or “Restaurant Row”).
DAY 2: Breakfast @ Broodje Mokum —great spot and it opens at 6:30 a.m. for early risers. Did Rijksmuseum; get the excellent audio guide! Spent 2 ½ - 3 hours here—as an artist, I was surprised that I didn’t need more time than that--a wonderful museum. Lunch @ Rijks Café—bright, cheery atmosphere, great food/service! Walked to and around Vondelpark—lovely! Did Anne Frank tour at 6:00 pm. (reserved tickets 2 months ahead of time, do it early to ensure your entry. One of the few museums not covered by the IAM card). Very moving experience. Went back to “Restaurant Row” area and ate at Assaggi, an excellent Italian restaurant steps from La Perla. Intimate setting, neighborhood favorite, fabulous food and service!
DAY 3: Breakfast at Bagels and Beans, 3 min. from the Van Gogh museum. (Bagels and Beans has several locations—even though it is a “chain” they serve very satisfying breakfasts!). Did Van Gogh Museum—LOVED this museum! Be sure to get the audio guide here as well—it really adds to the experience. Spent at least 3 hours here—I did delve deeper into some of the works beyond the “highlights tour” on the audio guide. There are also audio “stations” where you can listen to 2 minute narrative excerpts from VG’s letters to his colleagues and family—it is very interesting insight into his private thoughts and artistic point of view. Lunch Café Gruter, close to museum. Great lunch menu, heated patio seating on a very pleasant square, many locals, good prices. Took tram to Rembrandt House museum—HIGHLY recommend! Covered by IAM card. Another excellent, free audio guide. Almost didn’t do this museum and SO glad we did—real immersion into the Golden Age and his life. Beers across the street at Café de Sluyswacht—a lockkeeper’s house from 1695 right on the water—great patio scene. Walked to Dam Square and did RS self-guided Jordaan walk back to apartment, recommend. Evening, wandered the Nine Streets area—charming. Dinner at Moeder’s—wonderful, traditional Dutch food. Ordered the Traditional Dutch meal for two—delicious. Not a place for non meat-potato eaters! Don’t be put off by the surrounding area (rather charmless IMHO), but the inside of this place is kitschy fun with photos of mothers covering every wall surface. We ate outside—super casual, totally satisfying comfort food. (Continued on 4 days Amsterdam, part 2)