The Red Tape
On my very first overseas trip, I visited 5 countries in Europe, which required that I brought along the following documents:
My passport
On my most recent overseas trip, I visited 4 countries in South America, which required that I brought along the following documents:
Tasa de reciprocity indicating I'd paid the required fee to enter Argentina
Downloaded visa application with passport photo affixed to bring to Brazilian consulate in Puerto Iguazu, AR.
Passport photo to bring to Paraguayan consulate in Posadas, AR.
Copies of recent bank statement for the Brazilian and Paraguayan consulates to show that I had the means to support myself while visiting their countries
Copies of my return ticket home for the Brazilian and Paraguayan consulates to show that I wasn't planning to settle down there.
Copy of passport photo ID page for Paraguayan consulate.
Oh yeah, and my passport!
Moneychangin'
I've relied almost exclusively on ATNs for obtaining local currency while abroad because it's usually very easy, and the rates/fees are much more favorable that what one would get by exchanging money over the counter at a bank, airport, etc. Furthermore, quite a number of guide books have warned against any sort of currency trading with street changers, as it is most likely some sort of scam, sting or or set up. However, Argentina would appear to be the exception. For various reasons, it is VERY difficult for Argentines to obtain US dollars, so a thriving black market exists, which, as the authorities let it operate pretty much openly, is known as the blue market. I was told to visit a certain street and look for a "CAMBIO". I was expecting some sort of offices, but instead, there were people standing around murmuring "cambio...cambio" while others went about their business. This was wayyyy out of my comfort zone, but I waded in, selected one, and after some brief haggling, was led up to an office where the "cambio" disappeared with a pair of my $100 bills, then reappeared a couple minutes later with a wad of 100 peso notes. I didn't get a good rate, but it was still substantially better than withdrawing money from an ATM would have been. Later, at my hostel, I was steered to a certain window on a certain street where I got a very good rate. I wish I'd traded more money there, as later in my trip, I had to use ATMs as the blue market did not seem to exist outside of Buenos Aires.
I also traded dollars for Uruguayan pesos at a legitimate exchange counter at the port on Colonia (at a good rate, from a strikingly beautiful young woman), traded some Uruguayan pesos back to her later for some Brazilian reals just in case, paid for something in dollars and got reals in change, and traded some dollars on the street in Paraguay (I had a driver who looked out for my interests) for a combination of Paraguayan guaranties and Argentine pesos. All in all, I fared pretty well.
Buenos Aires
I was a bit skittish about this city after reading about various safety concerns, but as long as you avoid certain areas, it seems pretty safe, and I felt comfortable. I didn't spend much time there, though. The amazing Recoleta cemetery was the most interesting sight I visited.
Colonia del Sacramento
I made a day trip to Uruguay via a short ferry ride across the Rio de La Plata from Buenos Aires. It was well worth the time, plus I didn't need a visa to visit Uruguay. It's a former colony of Portugal, so it's not surprising that it reminded me of Lisbon.
(to be continued)