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February Weekend in Amsterdam Trip report

Inspired by Lyndash, I decided to do a little trip report even though my trip was much shorter than hers. But our days did overlap although we didn’t know it at the time !

I was there February 13 through 16, Friday through Monday. I had a friend come from Washington, so I took off Friday and Monday to join her.

I was scheduled on the 8:14 Eurostar out of Paris Friday morning, but about the time I got to the station, they said we would be delayed. So I headed over to Five Guys and got a breakfast sandwich to go. Just as I came back to wait with everyone for the announcement and was wondering how I was going to handle this sack with my ticket and boarding, they announced another delay so I went back into the restaurant and ate it sitting down. I think we ended up leaving about 30 minutes late (maybe 40), but it didn’t make a difference to me as we had no must-dos on our agenda for that afternoon.

Now a funny thing is that I just spent nearly a week in and around Amsterdam in August (plus I was there in January three years ago ), so I am pretty comfortable getting around. That made it easy when I arrived to jump on the tram and head a couple of stops to where I needed to get off for my hotel (using my credit card to tap in and tap out, which I don’t absolutely love, but it is cost-effective).

I changed for this trip. The prior two trips I have stayed at the De Ware Jacob boutique hotel near Museumplein and Concertgebouw, but their room was way too expensive for this trip (aha, I realized, it's Valentine's Day). So instead I got a single “Shoebox” room at the main Hoxton Hotel (on Herengracht). In fact, when I checked in, the girl at the desk kind of looked in dismay at my booking - “it's only a Shoebox” like she was sad for me, but I was delighted when I got up to my room. It was small (but actually bigger than my friend's room at the Mr Jordaan Hotel) but really nicely laid out, with a cool chair by the window, wonderful bathroom (with fantastic hot water and water pressure), a desk, a kettle for tea, fun art, and a digital radio. I was snug as a bug in a rug.

My friend had arrived before me, so we met up on the streets and went to the Eddy Varekamp Gallery. I had seen some of his work and discovered he does not sell online or by post - you have to go to his shop, which just happened to be near my hotel and happened to be open - they only open certain afternoons of the week. I really love his print style, and was so happy to pick up a couple of pieces for gifts. Www.eddyvarekamp.nl Hartenstraat 30

My friend and I then went for a late lunch / snacks and beer at the Foodhallen, which I love. We picked up grilled Padrón peppers, oysters, some fries, and some satay with peanut sauce, and a couple of dark beers. It was great because this place can get packed, but 3 pm-ish on a weekday, it was busy but not overwhelming. Www.foodhallen.nl

We wandered around a while just admiring the architecture and popping into shops. Then we each went to relax a bit at our respective hotels until meeting up for dinner, which I had reserved a few weeks prior. We ate at De Belhamel, where I had enjoyed an absolutely wonderful canal side meal with my sister-in-law and youngest niece in August - the food was great, but it was our server, who took such care to make sure we were happy and especially to get my niece a mocktail she liked. This place, although not inexpensive, had left a very good impression on me, so I wanted to take my friend back. Obviously we weren't outside near the canal in mid-February ! Instead, we were inside their gorgeous Art Nouveau dining room (after a stop in the cozy bar to wait for our table), and it was again another lovely evening. Www.belhamel.nl , Brouwersgracht 60

Continued . . .

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The next morning, we didn't get up and at it very early. We went to see the “flower market” and got a stroopwaffel and went in a couple of bookstores, then went to the Beginjhof. As we left the Beginjhof, dressed-up people were arriving with flowers and even dressed-up little kids . . .it looked like a wedding was getting ready to take place in the chapel (someone had been adjusting microphones when we were in there ).

I haven’t mentioned yet how cold cold COLD it was this weekend!! So we went to a ramen noodle place we had heard of, Fou Fow Ramen, and luckily just had to wait a couple of minutes before getting a table. It's a simple place, we just had stools at our table in the front window, but my friend was in heaven because she was right next to a low radiator. And the green tea and steaming bowls of ramen were just what we needed to warm us up !! Elandsgracht 2, www.foufow.nl

We wandered about a bit and then went to the Anne Frank House for our 2:45 pm program-with-ticket entry. I highly recommend doing the program beforehand. I have to say though, this third one in three years, the young man did a nice job but it didn’t seem like he covered near as much as the other two did in the previous programs I went to. Still it is essential to putting everything you are getting ready to see in context. They had changed the little machines that you hold up to the number in the room to get the audioguide since I was there in August, and the new ones seem to work a little better. One thing that you don't realize in the first few rooms is that if it is giving you audio in conjunction with a video that is being projected, it just automatically jumps in wherever the video is when you get to the right number, not at the start of the video. So in almost every case, you will hear a video starting in the middle, and you need to watch it through and then the new start again to see the first part.

The museum is so well done, there's not much more to say about it. It seems very important to go and bear witness, and of course that involves logging on the requisite number of weeks in advance, etc. they do have free coatcheck, so you are able to go through the space with only your small day bag or sling and not be encumbered by coats or jackets or whatnot.

After going through the museum we went in a totally different direction (metaphorically) and went for fancy drinks at Pulitzer's Bar in the Pulitzer Hotel. It was questionable whether we could get a seat - but the hostess, who asked first if we were hotel clients, then said we could have a table if we could free it in 45 minutes. We agreed to the deal and she led us in. This is so elegant and old-school Amsterdam looking, and the cocktails were fabulous. (And, while expensive, about €8-9 cheaper than equivalent cocktails in Paris, so it felt reasonable to me! Ha!) we saw several people getting turned away at the door. When we finished our first cocktails, the hostess happened to be coming by, and we asked her if she thought we would have time to fit another in, and she said yes, so we indulged in a second one each, it was fancy, the light in there was beautiful, and we had a great time. Their hospitality was top-notch. 323 Prinsengracht, www.pulitzeramsterdam.com

We stopped by Melly's Cookies near the Dam tram stop because I wanted to get a slice of their heavenly chocolate (Maybe Guinness?) cake to have for breakfast. We stopped by McLennan's Pure Silk (another shop on Hartenstraat, like Eddy Varekamp), so I could buy a silk scarf to replace one I lost. While there we had the funny experience of realizing the two workers (probably the owners) and my friend and I, all four of us, are left-handers. Their wares were so tempting, and I am very happy to have the scarf and have used it a lot as the weather has gotten milder here. Hartenstraat 22, open afternoons only

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For dinner that night (Valentines Day!) we went to the newer location of Antica Pizzeria da Michele. It was fine but a little too much marketing of Julia Roberts and Eat Pray Love. It's a pizzeria out of Naples that has started opening a few franchises elsewhere - I know there's at least one in Paris. This summer we went to the one in De Pijp, which I liked better, the one in Rembrandtplein seemed a bit “colder.” But the pizza was good. First address: Eerste van der Helststraat 72h, a good option if you're going to the Albert Cuyper market. This location was Reguliersbreestraat 37. Www.pizzeriadamichele.nl

Sunday morning we had to get up and out early as we had tickets to the Van Gogh for when they opened at 9 am. (This was because my friend had already bought us tickets for a boat ride with Those Dam Boat Guys at 1 pm, and I didn't want us to have to rush). I got there about 8:45 and joined the line in the bitter cold; my friend pressed the wrong button and was unsuccessful in opening the door to get off her tram so walked back from the next stop. She was still there before opening time.

We went down and put our stuff in the lockers and got the audio guides. My friend had a problem with her audio guide and someone from the first floor went and changed it for her.

This museum is just wonderful, and the audio guide is terrific. But I have to say I missed it in August, because I literally could not buy tickets on their site. And this time, I was going to buy our tickets, and could not. My friend finally was able to . They seem to have activated an additional security verification step that is strictly unnecessary for my French card, because it has Verified by Visa built in. I could not get through the purchasing steps. I feel bad my niece had to miss this last summer, I should have made her try to buy the tickets from the States.

One warning - they have an excellent bookshop up on the third (?) floor of the building, where in January 2023 I bought a museum-published book of select letters between Van Gogh and his brother Theo and then Theo's wife Jo, who really cultivated Van Gogh's oeuvre for the world after he and his brother passed. I figured they would have roughly the same things down in the main gift shop, but it was very light on books. So if you want a book, buy it while you are upstairs !

Am tired of writing now, will come back with the last few activities later . . . .

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Ok, so upon leaving the Van Gogh Museum, feeling well fortified by the artistic and historical inflow for our brains and hearts, we went to the grocery store to pick up some items for our 1 pm boat trip. Then we went to some instagram or TikTok famous cinnamon-bun-made-with-croissant-dough called Bun Bun and got one of those to share on the boat.

We were a little early but saw the kitty in the window of the Dam Boat Guys office and went in, they were super nice, and the woman Lee who was going to be our boat guide was there, so she took us with her. They had the plastic / vinyl see-through panels down because did I mention it was below freezing all weekend, but it was fine. And she had her little dog Pixie with her, he rode along with us so calm and happy to be there.

Besides my friend and me, there was another family of four people on the boat. The matriarch of 83 years from New Orleans, with her son and two daughters. The son lives in Chicago and retired from United, so they have flying privileges and meet up a few times a year to wherever they can get a flight to !! They were super nice and were terrific boating companions.

I have to say I loved this boat ride. It was much smaller than the boat i went on in August, and I really liked the captain. It was a very fun hour and I am so glad we did it.

We were quite cold by then and went back to my friend's hotel for hot chocolate to try to warm up before heading out again. By the time we headed to de Biertuin for beers, the precipitation had started, and it turned into heavily blowing snow while we were in the beer garden. We then made a race a little earlier than planned for our rijstaffel reservation at Jun. we took tram 5 to Bloemgracht and then walked a little ways . . .it felt longer in the cold wet snow !!! But again made us feel very happy and cozy to be inside what looked to be a family restaurant. The rijstaffel was absolutely delicious, we were very happy with our choice of restaurant. Www.restaurantjun.nl , Frederik Hendrikstraat 98. It was open Sunday evening, which was perfect for us, but it is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. And I think it is only open for dinner, not for lunch.

Then that was it ! Our time in Amsterdam was about up. The snow had let up but everything looked so beautiful coated in it, of course. We walked back to my friend's hotel, I picked up some stuff I had left there rather than carry around all day, and then I headed back to my hotel, taking photos on the way of the snow and the architecture.

My friend's flight out of Amsterdam ended up being delayed by several hours the next day, but my train was fine. left Amsterdam at 11:10. We had a little delay at Brussels, so we got into Paris a little later than expected but nothing too bad.

Our guide mentioned the garden days in June, and I really want to go for that now, but cheaper hotel options are already snapped up. So I will keep my eyes open for those dates in 2027.

I like Amsterdam more and more, the more I go there. It is a drag that the VAT tax on hotel rooms is now 21% (prior to 1/1/26, it was 9%), and that the tourist tax in Amsterdam is 12.5%. There is no getting around it, it's expensive. But it is very worth it. We'll see when my next time will be !! Probably longer than six months from now . . .

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Thank you! We are going to Amsterdam in September. This is a great trip report and I’m so very appreciative. I enjoy winter trips to Europe, so happy you were able to see some snow, sounds magical!

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Great trip report Kim! Thanks for adding all the links. I am bookmarking as well.

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Kim, I loved reading about your parallel trip to Amsterdam. I was in Haarlem on the 14th and that definitely was the coldest day for me. I remember being very surprised I couldn’t see my breath while I was inside the Grote Kerk.

Even though my coat was enough, you’re a tougher tourist than me to do a boat ride! When you were in the Van Gogh I was at church and then the Stedelijk……so sliding doors. Never quite at the same place at the same time.

What a great time you had with your friend. You definitely ate better than I did and I loved hearing about your happy hour break at a classy bar. Why don’t I do that!? And of course I’m taking notes on Melly’s Cookies for chocolate cake for next time.

What did you think of the tourist level in comparison with your August trip?

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Great report! We are headed to Amsterdam next month and I've taken note of your recommendations. I'm hoping for warmer weather in April :) My Anne Frank ticket purchase is this week.

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What a fun time you had! AND cake for breakfast, lol!! And I loved that you go to Amsterdam to purchase scarves, haha!

Thanks so much for posting. I enjoyed reading about your quick trip.

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Kim, great trip report. Love all the mentions of cocktails, snacks and shopping. Thanks for sharing.

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Kim, thanks, I'll be there soon! Your report will be quite helpful.!