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Favorite Cities, Old & New: Part 2, London

Oh, how I do love London--just the prospect of a fairly short visit (4 days, 5th visit) had me all giddy with glee. I arrived at King's Cross close to 1 pm on Wednesday, walked over to the Underground and added £30 giving me a total of £36 of which I used £33. I have 2 hotels I like and this trip stayed at the Caesar on Queen's Gardens, a 10 minute walk from Paddington and also to Queensway with 2 stations and lots of food options. I like the quiet residential area, and had a very nice & spacious room. As soon as I had unpacked a bit it started to rain--not the polite drizzle of Edinburgh but a more determined, wet rain. Put on my hooded jacket & umbrella and off I went to Oxford Circus where I had excellent fish & chips and a cider at The Clachan on Kingly, just behind my favorite store, Liberty--they were having a sale! Just the sight of the iconic building delights me & I go there for the craft & fabric dept, got a needlepoint kit commemorating the Coronation--this will go nicely with the one I stitched last year for the Queen's Jubilee. Bought some candy and a Christmas ornament and decided to brave the rain--rush hour & the Underground is a blasted mess when it rains, by the time I got back to the hotel I was quite drenched...but happy to be here!

Thursday was wonderful--I visited my most favorite place in London TWICE--the Tower! In the morning I checked out the Crown Jewels, then spent time watching the ravens, especially Edgar & Bronwen, who are a couple, fighting over treats. Walked the ramparts and just sat happily in the sun before heading off to see St Paul's & exploring that area, then the V&A to just poke around--the Chanel exhibit was sold out, alas. A bit after 8 pm I got back on the tube to the Tower for the Ceremony of the Keys, had to be there exactly at 9:30. I chatted with a nice couple from MO to pass the 1/2 hr wait, then we were let in & guided by Yeoman Warder Terry into the courtyard where the ceremony began. The 2nd part of it had us move into the area near the White Tower--that borders the raven enclosures, & something made me look up on the high wall & sure enough, Edgar & Bronwen were sitting up there! At 10 pm this was highly unusual, they are put to bed at dusk to guard from predators. We were adamantly warned no pictures allowed during the ceremony or you'd be frog-marched out, but once it was complete Terry said "Here's the money shot, the White Tower all lit up, get out your cameras!" Needless to say my first shot was of the ravens 😬 then the White Tower, spectacular at night. I asked Terry about the ravens & it seems they have a nest and won't let Chris, the Ravenmaster, catch them at night, they play every trick possible to elude him! Seeing them was the absolute icing on the cake for me--the Ceremony is wonderful, much pomp & circumstance & tradition, and a bargain at just £5 to see all that and be in the Tower at night. No problems taking the tube back to the hotel, streets in the neighborhood were active at 11 pm. I did not bring my purse, just phone & ID & credit card in a zipped pocket. And my umbrella, which went everywhere with me this trip!

Friday I had a ticket for Kew Gardens, I had put it off for several trips & I must say it's just a glorious place and I had hours of sun to explore it in. Loved Kew Palace, did the Treetop Walkway, made friends with lots of birds & squirrels and even saw a beautiful fox on a quiet path. The thing I loved the most was the Marianne North Gallery--what an incredible woman, she traveled all over the world in the Victorian era to paint trees & flowers, then built this gallery to house them all at Kew. I then continued on to Richmond in late afternoon, explored the charming town for a couple of hours & a bit of the park and had dinner at Bill's, by then it was raining--I will definitely return, really liked the feel of this town.

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Saturday--last day, and I decided to help myself get an early start by booking a 10 am ticket to tour the Speaker's Apartments at Parliament. This also was the first time I got to hear Big Ben toll, and it moved me to tears. It had been under construction on my other visits and is looking very spiffy now. The tour was quite excellent, had a great guide who was quite theatrical & very knowledgeable, lasted 1.5 hrs and included all the rooms of the apartment that are public. I had toured the Houses of Parliament last year so this was a nice counterpart to that. I then meandered down along Whitehall and walked St James' Park for hours, particularly amazed by the pelicans, all 6 of them just lounging on the path, totally oblivious to people getting right in their face with cameras. Nearly accosted by a very aggressive but charming squirrel who seemed likely to leap onto me so I scurried off, saw a woman feeding pigeons and she was nearly engulfed by them--clearly the wildlife is used to getting treats. Walked by Buckingham Palace, which I had toured previously, then over to the British Library to see the Treasures as I do every trip...and I love their bookshop. Early dinner at the Mitre pub near my hotel--excellent last meal. Then it was time to wrestle all my goodies into suitcase & tote bag---new sweaters, books, candy & various other goodies, seemed heavy but I was fine weight-wise.

My flight home was at 12:20 on Sunday, thankfully did not rain as I trundled back to Paddington. I had intended to take the Elizabeth Line but ended up on the Heathrow Express after all. Arrived at Heathrow at 8:30, dropped bag in 10 minutes and through security by 9:30--the most efficient of all my trips. They do prefer people to use the ziplock bag they hand out, so I transferred from my bag to theirs, no issues going through. At SFO arrived at 3 pm and had 2 people ahead of me at passport control, never had it that quickly before.

Total miles walked over 10 days: 52
Total tea towels: 13 + 1 as a gift--I have a thing for tea towels & the UK excels at them, what can I say?!

Packing Details
Checked a 25" hard side Calpak spinner, 26# going & 33# returning, plus a RS flight bag carryon tote bag stuffed to the brim with about 20#. I used an Apple Air Tag this trip, gave me some peace of mind.

I brought 2 jackets & needed them: London Fog hooded rain jacket with lining & my favorite lighter piece by Calvin Klein, both black. Grey scarf got plenty of use.

Black Fluevog Colette ankle boot and black Ecco Street 720 upscale sneaker--they are fabulous & very comfy!

2 pairs Hudson jeans--black and dark blue
2 3/4 sleeve Smoking Lily Ina tops--teal & burgundy
2 short sleeve Smoking Lily tops, black and chestnut and another black T - all of them were worn in London
Grey Garnet Hill cashmere sweater that I did not wear--it was chilly but I get hot very easily so wore Ts.
2 long sleeve jersey tops
3 undies, 4 socks, nightie (wish I brought the longer sleeved one, Edinburgh room was chilly) and slippers
Sink laundry is my go-to but I had a hard time in Edinburgh as the room had no airflow, had to use the hairdryer on my jeans.
My perfect travel purse is the Deluxe Everyday bag by LeSportsac in black with charcoal trim--holds everything, crossbody, lightweight and attractive.

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596 posts

Terrific trip report, thanks so much. After reading this and a trip report from Jane some months ago, I must go back. I thought I was done with London but your Ceremony of the Keys description sounded so great. Thanks to for the packing details too. I like buying British tea towels as well. The V&A always have a great selection. Easy to pack too, although I’ve never scored a baker’s dozen in one trip 😉.

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14723 posts

Great ending to a wonderful trip!

Thanks for your packing list...you know I always love them. I think the cashmere sweater was a good choice anyway. This time of year is hard to tell if you are going to get warm or cold weather so it was good for a back up. I'm impressed you only had 2 pr of bottoms. I got nervous after someone on the forum (maybe Wray? or someone else??) was traveling with 2 pr and had a zipper failure so was down to one, lol....

I love Kew. Such a variety of things there including the palace. I'm pretty sure that is the one that has the area where they did "treatments" for George III and his madness....so sad. Anyway, love the gardens and did like the Palace as well.

Thanks for doing your TRs!

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9219 posts

Thank you.

Throughly enjoyed your TR.

London is my favorite city on the planet. Been visiting for decades. Never fails to intrigue.

Glad you got to experience the Ceremony of The Keys. Something to be said for tradition, history and
Edgar and Bronwen.

Definitely investigate a stay in the Richmond/ North Sheen Neighborhood. I’ve stayed in the area with friends. You can follow the Kings Ride path past the East Sheen cemetary into Richmond Park. A favorite.

Again, appreciate your stellar trip report!

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2041 posts

Glad you enjoyed London. I visited London yearly for 10 years until the call of Continental Europe came and I haven't looked back. But I will always have fond memories of me taking my Mom or Dad with me on my visits and even managing to see some celebs. Funniest memory years ago is of a Tower raven pulling at my mother's shoulder strap on her purse with her trying to push it away and me worried that she'd hurt the bird. Years later she still remembered that I told her if she hurt the bird we'd be fined or arrested.

Sidenote-the raven was okay and flew off when they spotted someone with food.

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2688 posts

Lyndash--if I were told I could only ever visit one city for the rest of my life, I would choose London--on past trips I have added in day trips to other towns, and there is definitely so much to do and see in town itself. I feel I didn't spend enough time this trip, last April I had 8 days and that was heaven. As for the tea towels, Edinburgh generated most of them...and then I needed the new one at Parliament with Big Ben statistics on it...and one for King Charles' Coronation...sigh :) Every time I use one I am reminded of a happy trip memory!

Pam--good point about just 2 pairs of jeans, I do worry about zippers--would hate to have to find jeans I like and that fit me in some countries. I got the impression that King George did undergo treatment at Kew Palace, and that the rest of the family lived on a separate floor from him because of that, really not a happy time for Queen Charlotte and their daughters. I would have liked to go inside Queen Charlotte's Cottage but it was not open during the week.

Claudia--I really must thank you, because you have mentioned Richmond so often that it became a town I knew I needed to visit and it worked perfectly with Kew Gardens. It had an appealing sense of busy-ness to it without feeling over-touristed--I have never seen Ted Lasso so I understand it's become much more popular because of it. Staying there also might be a nice respite from London, which is still quite close.

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Heather--your poor mother, the ravens can be quite cheeky! In past visits they have been bolder and more demanding of goodies from visitors, but this time they mainly stayed in their big open enclosures, just 3 of the 7 were out and I can't tell which one was the newest, Rex, named for the King. Apparently due to bird flu they had been kept in their enclosures for a few months, and even when allowed out again some decided they preferred to stay in.

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Thank you for this delightful Part 2! It really makes me want to return to London—it’s been nearly 40 years since I was there, and there is so much to see and do. I simply must meet Edgar and Bronwen! And Kew Gardens sounds magical. (I live near the one in Queens, but I don’t think it’s quite the same! 😄)

I share your love of tea towels. Aren’t they the ideal souvenirs? They weigh almost nothing and pack flat. And every time you use them, you’re reminded of the place where you bought them. I’m still using some adorable blue-and-white teatime-themed ones that I bought at the BHV in Paris 16 years ago.

Thanks for the packing report, too! Very helpful for planning my next trip or two.