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Exploring Iceland with my daughter: a 7 night adventure (Stockholm and Norway to follow)

About 13 years ago, I started talking to my daughter about traveling someplace together. In fact, we started making plans at that time, but then when she got pregnant with my now 12 year old granddaughter, we had to cancel. I brought the subject up again last year. She had just finished her first year of med school, so this was a way to give her a break and for doing so well in school. I gave her the choice of destinations, and she picked Iceland, Sweden, and Norway.

Originally, she said she could only be gone for two weeks, but I pointed out that with three countries, we would need at least three, and she finally agreed. I planned 95% of the trip, although she would occasionally give me some feedback when I would forward potential itineraries to her. Mostly, though, she concentrated on her studies, and I concentrated on the trip. Our travels began in early July, when we flew to KEF airport. We stayed in Iceland for seven nights, Stockholm for three nights, and Norway for eleven nights. I also kept an online journal with more detailed information about our travels and lots of photos. The link is in my profile.

This story comes to you in three parts: Iceland, Stockholm, and Norway. Here are links to the second and third trip reports: Stockholm Trip Report and Norway Trip Report

Special thanks to mikliz97, who gave me great advice about Iceland, and everyone who helped me, including Skyegirl, Badger, mnannie, jeanm, and everybody who gave me such great advice.

GETTING TO ICELAND:
I chose Icelandair because it has a stopover program where you can spend up to 7 nights in Iceland before traveling on to someplace else. There were issues with the airline, though. Their website was difficult to use (and I am pretty tech proficient). I tried to add information to my profile online, but it was hard to find where to add the info, and once I found it, the data kept disappearing (including my Known Traveler Number). But the worst was the comfort level on board. The seats had almost no cushioning and were quite hard. For someone used to Delta’s seats, it was a real trial.

It also annoyed me that Icelandair gave nothing away for free except water, coffee, and tea.I had to pay for wifi, there were no free drinks, and no food at all unless it was paid for. If this had been a true discount flight, I would not be complaining, but I paid as much for this seat as I’ve paid for seats on major airlines, so I did expect some gratis items. The staff was pleasant, though, and the plane got us to our destination in good time. In fact, we wound up getting to Keflavik in Iceland about twenty minutes early.

KEFLAVIK AIRPORT: Our flight arrived around 6:30 am, and I'd heard some stories about people having to wait forever in the security line there, so I was a little worried. But we actually got through in about 20 minutes. There were lots of EES machines that were obviously not being used. Instead, everybody was queued up to go to the security booths. When I got there, they asked me one quick question about my destination; I answered and went on my way.

Unfortunately, my daughter hadn’t looked at the itinerary in awhile, so when they asked her where she was staying the first night, she had no idea. They kept her there for about ten minutes asking her more questions, which she couldn't answer. I was wondering what was taking so long when I heard a loud whisper “Mom, what town are we staying in tonight?”. I cautiously crept back through the door marked No Re-entry, hoping I wouldn’t be arrested, and quickly gave her the name she needed. That must have done the trick because she soon walked out.

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BLUE CAR RENTAL: I decided it would be less expensive and easier to pick up the rental car at the airport when we arrived, drive it into Reykjavik, and park it for the night. That way we'd have it first thing in the morning, and would avoid the high fees of the FlyBus. We were delayed a bit while we figured out where the rental car office was, but my daughter finally found it. Once she got the car, though, she had to go back and exchange it for another one, since the trunk wouldn't close on the first option. The second car was a Toyota Yaris and worked well for us. Blue tried to rent me a wifi router, but since I got a Bcengi PAYG e-SIM in addition to my T-Mobile plan (see Tech Trip Report for more details), I didn't see the need to pay $100 for the router.

Driving to Reykjavik from the airport was super easy. On the way, we stopped at a bakery called Kökulist, which was about 10 minutes from the airport. It opens daily at 7 am and is a great place to stop and pick up some coffee and food if you just got off an early morning flight.

MIDGARDUR AT CENTER HOTEL (Reykjavik):
We drove to Midgarder, parked in front and wonder of wonders, we were able to check in at 10 am! I couldn't believe it—that has never happened before. My daughter (who appointed herself the official driver) asked about parking, and the desk clerk gave her a map that showed where all the free spaces were. She said we could just leave the car there for 24 hours, and it would be fine. She also told us about a few other perks we had, including access to the outdoor spa and sauna, a fitness center, 15% off in the restaurant, and two “welcome” drinks at the bar. The room was not large but comfortable enough, with a deep tub (yay!), blackout curtains (this is midnight sun country) and two very comfortable twin beds.

The outdoor natural hot tub at the hotel was very nice as well. It was near the sauna and the fitness room in a secluded area, so there was a lot of privacy. Both my daughter and I used it, and enjoyed it a lot. We also opted for the hotel restaurant. The food was quite good there, so we were happy with our choices. There was also an incredible breakfast spread the next morning, included in the price. We paid around $300 a night for our room, which was a 20% discount off the regular price and included spa access, since we booked directly with the hotel.

CARD VS. CASH: I took no cash at all with me (nor did my daughter), and we used Apple Wallet in all three countries. Not a single person or business wanted cash. I was even able to use Apple Wallet when I bought a used jacket at a small second-hand clothing yard sale in Iceland.

REYKJAVIK: Reykjavik is a really lovely and charming city, with some beautiful colorful buildings, lots of murals on the walls and buildings, and a gorgeous harbor. It has some sights worth seeing, a few museums and churches, but I think its main appeal comes from walking around and enjoying the vibe and beautiful scenery. We visited Hallgrimskirkja, a stunning Lutheran church, where you can walk or take the elevator up to the top and look out over the city. We also walked down to the harbor where you could see the Sun Voyager sculpture, the Harpa concert hall and all the boats in the water.

My daughter is a runner, and she went out early the next morning and ran along the Promenade, which is a paved path that goes all the way around the harbor. She loved it! And of course we shopped. My daughter enjoys shopping as much as I do, so we spent quite a bit of time in the wool shops and other shops. We didn't really buy much, but it was fun to look at the interesting merchandise.

I was also looking for a jacket because I left my new raincoat at home by mistake. I had my puffer vest with me so I wasn't completely without outerwear, and we’d seen only a bit of rain so far. But everything I saw was very pricey, so I held off and see what I found on the road.

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ROAD TRIP: Snaefellsnes→Heimaey (Westmann Islands)→South Coast →Golden Circle→Reykjanes

LJÓMALIND LOCAL MARKET: This is a small shop in the town of Borganes, which connects Reykjavik with the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and north. Our main reason for stopping here was to visit a local shop I had read about in the NY Times. Ljómalind Local Market has an extensive selection of handmade Icelandic sweaters and wool and some other unique items and gifts—you can also buy some food items there. We were there for probably about 30 minutes and made a couple of purchases. It's right on the way, so it's definitely worth a stop if you're driving by and are interested in wool. Their sweater and wool prices are less expensive than in Reykjavik.

SNAEFELLSNES: After eating breakfast at the hotel, we drove to Snaefellsnes the next morning. Snaefellsnes is a peninsula that lies northwest of Reykjavik and is one place that I wanted to visit on my last trip but didn’t make it there. Jules Verne used it in his book, “Journey to the Center of the Earth” when he sent his characters through the crater of Snæfellsjökull (“jökull” = glacier) into the volcano.There are a lot of beautiful and interesting places and not enough time to visit them all, but we tried.

Ytri Tunga: A beautiful spot on the south coast of Snaefellsnes that is home to a colony of harbor and gray seals. You have to walk down the path, then walk out over some rocks to get a close look at the seals. I couldn’t get too close, as the rocks were pretty big and I am not very adept at climbing, so my daughter took the pictures. But it's definitely worth a stop, and even at a distance you can still see the seals.

Arnarstapi: a charming fishing village on the coast. We had some wonderful fish and chips at a local cafe, then wandered around for a bit. We stopped for a few moments at the Monument to the Bard of Snæfellsás, who according to legend was half troll and half man. The giant monument stands over 18 feet high. There is also a fairly short hike to another fishing village called Hellnar that takes you along the coast.

Londrangar Viewpoint: it’s near the tip of the peninsula and has a viewpoint that shows fantastic views of Snæfellsjökull and Londrangar, a formation of ancient basalt volcanic dikes sticking out from the sea. The sea cliffs were filled with hundreds of birds and the view was gorgeous. If you're so inclined (like my daughter), you can hike down to the formation and check it out up close.

Hellissandur: a charming village located at the northwestern tip of the peninsula. The town was very walkable and we loved looking at the lovely buildings and creative street art. The town is known for its murals, and there were quite a few of them. While we were there, we stopped in a few shops and came across a town market, where the locals were selling used goods. My daughter noticed some outerwear and nudged me in that direction. Within a few minutes, I found a very nice rain jacket that fit and was only $15.

There were many other sites along the way, like Kirkjufellsfoss, a lovely waterfall, or Kirkjufell, a high peak mountain and much, much more. You can stop if you want or just gaze in wonder as you drive by. That's the beauty of Iceland. You can be driving along and see something out of the blue, check it out, and it's wonderful. You might miss one thing, but you'll visit another sight that is just as beautiful. There is always something wonderful around the corner.

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STYKKISHOLMUR: We didn't spend much time in this charming town on Snaefellsness, except to basically sleep and eat here, but it was a very pretty place, with a lovely harbor, some fun little shops, and just a nice place to walk around in the evening and enjoy the view. There are some interesting places to visit, like a mountain where you walk up and there is a ritual involved and some beautiful waterfalls, but we decided to forego those for the evening

AKKERI GUESTHOUSE
The guesthouse was in a charming deep yellow building, and we were warmly greeted by a young woman from Hungary. She showed us to our room, which was small but very clean and very simple and with lovely views of the town through the windows. Breakfast was included and was delicious. The common area had a fridge for guests to use, and also a kettle with coffee and tea makings there. There were also tables where guests could eat, which we did later that evening. The price was around $300 per night.

We went to Bonus (see below) to buy food for dinner, which turned out to be a mishmash of items (Welsh cheese, Icelandic rye bread, greens, and fruit), but it was delicious. After that we took a walk down to the harbor to enjoy the lovely golden light over the water.

BONUS: It is an inexpensive grocery store that you will find throughout Iceland. We went there while we were in Stickisholmer to get some food for dinner, but we went to others later during our trip. You can find lots of inexpensive food here, which is a plus because Iceland is very expensive and it's very pricey to eat out each night. There were many days where we would get at least one meal from Bonus or the other main grocery store called Kronan.

It's also a great place to find Icelandic salt inexpensively. You'll find it in a lot of shops, but it can be pricey. However, Bonus sells the Saltwerk brand for a very reasonable price. They have a variety of flavors, including lava salt, seaweed salt, birch smoked salt, and arctic thyme salt. And of course, you can buy their fun yellow tote bag with a giant pig on it. 😂

DRIVING TO HEIMAEY: We had to leave our guesthouse fairly early, as the ferry I booked that would take us from Landeyjahöfn (the ferry terminal) to the island of Heimaey departed at 2pm. Luckily, we didn't need to travel around the peninsula this time, but could cut straight through, so the drive was much shorter than the previous day.

GAS STATION FOOD: On the way back, we stopped in Borganes again to get gas, but I remembered reading that gas stations had good and cheap food. Since we would be on the road, we bought a couple of sandwiches, drinks and a bag of chips. We chose the sandwiches we wanted and they heated them up quickly. The price was reasonable and the sandwiches very tasty. The chips were even better. They were similar to Popcorners chips here in the states (triangle shaped light chips that are popcorn flavored) but ten times better! My daughter has been on the hunt for them since then and hasn't been able to find them over here. Unfortunately, we can't remember the name of it, which makes the hunt worse.

THE HEIMAEY/LANDEYJAHÖFN FERRY: The car ferry goes back and forth between Landeyjahöfn and Heimaey about 6-8 times per day, depending on the season. When we arrived about 1:40, we showed them our tickets (booked about a week before) so they gestured us on. https://herjolfur.is/en/schedule

My daughter parked on the deck and we went upstairs to relax for the 30-minute ride. Once inside, we bought a couple of coffees from the machine, then headed outside on the deck to see if we could spot any dolphins or whales. But when I almost got blown off the side by the wind, we decided inside was safer.

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WIND: Everyone always talks about how windy Iceland is. Some people think it's an exaggeration, but it's really not. The wind is strong there; really strong. Not all the time, but it definitely comes and goes. I have a photo of myself where my hair was literally straight up in the air from the wind, so when I say that I almost got blown off the side of the boat by the wind, I'm not exaggerating. That wind was strong.

HEIMAEY: Heimaey is the only inhabited island of the Westman Islands on Iceland. We chose to come here because it has a very large puffin colony. But they also have a fascinating volcano museum that shows what happened in 1973 when an immense volcano erupted on the island, destroying over 400 homes, killing 50 residents and forming a new volcano called Eldfell, which is on the island and is popular for climbing.

There are many other attractions on the island as well, but I had come here for the puffins. If you go to the viewpoint in late afternoon through evening or early in the morning during the summer, you have a good chance of seeing puffins. Unfortunately, the evening we were there, there was VERY dense fog that came in and we couldn't see anything. I was worrying about toppling over the cliff, so we finally left. However, my daughter went out for a run the next morning and went back to the spot where you could see puffins. She found them and got some great photos.

THE NEW POST OFFICE: was an apartment we booked on Heimaey and worked very well for our purposes. It’s managed by the Hotel Vestmannaeyjar (that is where we picked up the key), and was $230 per night. It was quite large, very clean and spacious, and the apartment had a full kitchen. The best thing was that there was a shared washer and dryer on the level below, which also had a large common area for guests. It was nice to be able to do some laundry.

EINSI KALDI (on Heimaey): This restaurant gave us by far and away the BEST meal I had the entire trip, and my daughter agreed with me. We ordered corn ribs for starters, which were out of this world. I had some really good corn ribs when I was in Bucharest, but these were even better. I also ordered a Hugo spritz, which was very refreshing, and Katie got an Einsi Kaldi, made with Hendricks Gin, St. Germain, green apple, cucumber, and lime. This, coupled with our amazing seafood entrees of lemon sole (complete with capers, salmon roe, shallots, lemon), and cod fillet with crushed potatoes, kale, mango, and basil sauce, made for a great dinner.

VIGTIN BAKHÚS: A lovely cafe in Heimaey near the harbor where we stopped for coffee and breakfast the morning we took the ferry back to the mainland. It had really nice pastries and good coffee.
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THE SOUTH COAST (VIK): Our next two nights were spent in Vik, which sits at the southernmost tip of Iceland on the south coast. As before, we made our way slowly there from Heimaey so that we could stop at several places and see some of the incredible sights along the way.

SKOGAR MUSEUM: This was our first stop and features three main exhibits delving into early Icelandic history. We both loved exploring the open-air portion, which showcases historical folk relics and beautifully reconstructed turf houses buried under thick layers of sod. There was also an inside museum that had a number of artifacts from the past with some very interesting pieces on display.

MYRDALSJÖKULL: This is a massive glacier that caps the active Katla volcano. I couldn’t believe how accessible it was. We simply turned down a side road, parked, and walked a brief quarter-mile to the viewpoint. The scale of it hits you instantly—it holds over 34 cubic miles of ice. I stayed near the viewpoint, but others (including my daughter) went much closer to the glacier. There were groups of tours where some were getting ready to climb across it (they had a LOT of gear).

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ICELANDIC HORSES: This was not planned at all. We were driving along Rt. 1 on the South Coast and saw a couple of cars pulled over. We were curious and stopped and saw some adorable Icelandic horses that were just there by the side of the road. Of course, we went over and played with them for a little bit, along with a group of about 3 young women who were also there. They were the sweetest and friendliest animals and have an interesting history. They originally arrived with the first Norwegian settlers over 1000 years ago and are one of the purest horse breeds in the world. To protect them from disease and keep their bloodlines intact, Icelandic law forbids any other horses from being imported into the country. And if an Icelandic horse leaves the island, it can never return.

GUESTHOUSE CARINA: It’s a lovely, cozy spot with shared bathrooms. I actually hadn’t noticed that there were shared baths when booking, but we didn’t mind. Guesthouses sometimes do have shared bathrooms in Iceland, so if you are booking a place and you see the word "guesthouse", it would be something to check if it bothers you. Our first guesthouse on Stikkisholmur did not have shared bathrooms, but this one did. The cost was $234 per night and we stayed 2 nights.
Breakfast was included, and it was a very generous breakfast. They even had a waffle maker if you wanted to make your own waffles. There was also a giant shoe rack in the hallway because they wanted guests to take off their shoes. It didn't bother us as this is something we’re used to in Minnesota, as everyone does that here. It did cause a problem when we left, though, as you can read further down.

BLACK CRUST PIZZARIA: This place in Vik specializes in a jet-black pizza crust made from activated charcoal. It sounds unusual, but it was delicious and is supposed to be very healthy. I ordered the pizza with mozzarella, cherry tomato and fresh basil. It typically comes with a sourdough crust, but they offered to change it to the black crust and it was wonderful. My daughter loved her pizza as well. And they also had good beer!

THE SOUP COMPANY: We ate here on our second night, and they had some truly amazing soups. I ordered the Icelandic lamb soup, which was made with lamb, herbs, carrots, onion, and rice. It was really good and the bread that came with it was delicious. My daughter ordered the tasting menu, which consists of three bowls of soup. She chose the Hurry Curry Soup (fresh Icelandic cod, vegetables, sweet corn, and cream), the Indian Lentil Soup (lentils, veggies, coconut cream, and spices), and the Red Hot Lava Soup (Icelandic beef, chili, onion, and black beans). And anyone who orders soup can get free second helpings.

SHOPPING: My daughter discovered Icewear, which is an Icelandic brand that has shops all over (including Vik) with a ton of activewear. The prices are high, but not terrible, and the store in Vik had some sales going on, so we were able to take advantage of that and went a little crazy. My daughter decided that she needed a new raincoat and purchased a really nice bright red coat. It made her very easy to find after that.

ZODIAK GLACIER TOUR: This took place in Jökulsárlón about 2 1/2 hours north of Vik. Mikliz had told me about it, and it really sounded like fun, so I booked the tour. You head out to sea towards the glaciers on a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat)—a large rubber boat with a motor. You sit along the edge on rubber bumpers and hold on tight, because the boat moves fast, though it slows down and stops near the glacier and icebergs.

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We had to leave early to get there as it was 2 ½ hours from Vik. Shortly after we arrived, we were given flotation suits and life jackets to put on and we then made our way down to the boats. Our fellow passengers included a father and son in the back and a family of four from Haarlem (mother, father and 2 young adult sons). They were a blast and were amazed when I told them I had been to Haarlem. We joked with them the entire trip and had the best time. The boat went really fast at times, but then would stop so we could get close to the glacier, icebergs and harbor seals. The guide had a lot of information to share about glaciers and Iceland as well.

THE DRIVE BACK TO VIK: As we drove back from the Zodiac Tour to Vik, we could see all the incredible mountains on the west side with glaciers and snow all around. The scenery here is just breathtaking. We made a couple of stops at some beautiful spots along the coast.

HOFSKIRKJA: a turf church on Iceland’s south coast. Built in 1884, it’s the last traditional turf church constructed in the old Icelandic style, with rock walls, a timber frame, and a thick roof covered in grass. It was lovely to look at, though we couldn’t go inside.

FJAÐRÁRGLJÚFUR: this is a two-million-year-old river canyon carved by the Fjaðrá River through thick rock. It was absolutely stunning. A lot of people climbed to the top of it, including my daughter. I just meandered down near the bottom but explored some nearby places where there was interesting scenery to see.

THE CATASTROPHE: (Of course there had to be a catastrophe somewhere in this report!). Remember that shoe rack? When we checked out of Guesthouse Carina, I grabbed my shoes off the rack, put them on and we left. We were about two hours away when I received an email asking if a guest had taken someone else's shoes. I looked down at my shoes, realized they were not the smoke blue Merrell Moab shoes I had brought with me, but the tan Merrells that looked very much like the ones I had left at home.
Oops! I emailed the owner back, told her I had them and asked how we could get them switched. After some back-and-forth messages that went on throughout the day, including a WhatsApp call, we arranged to make the switch the next day at the other person’s hotel in Reykjavik. I was so miffed at myself for doing something so idiotic!

THE GOLDEN CIRCLE: The Golden Circle is a well-known tourist loop that has three primary stops: Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, and the Gullfoss waterfall. In 2018, I took a Golden Circle tour, but today we were going to just drive to each place, since we had the car. We were booked at the Hill Hotel in Fludir, but wouldn’t be checking in till after later in the day.

THINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK: If you don't take a tour, it's easy to get here by car, and they have a massive parking area. From there, you walk to the nearby visitor center, where you can pick up reading material, use the toilet, shop in the gift shop, etc., and then head out into the park. I bought a rain hat there, And here are a number of sites at Thingvellir National Park, including the giant crack where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are pulling apart. As these huge pieces of the Earth’s crust slowly drift in opposite directions (about 1 inch per year or 8.3 feet every hundred years), the land between them sinks, creating a deep rift valley, called the Almannagjá gorge, along with many fissures. This makes it one of the very few places on Earth where you can physically stand between two continents.

And the site of the very first Parliament meeting, back around 930 CE. Just look for the Iceland flag, which gives the approximate location of their first meeting. There's also a waterfall, and any number of other scenic things to see, including an adorable small church called Thingvellir Church. It's really a beautiful place

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EFSTIDALUR DAIRY FARM: This is a family dairy farm that dates back to the 1700’s. I was here in 2018 and loved it. You will probably have to wait in line if you go, but the line moves very quickly. It’s a popular place and we saw several tour buses in the parking lot. The ice cream is really good. I got a scoop each of raspberry ice cream and lemon yogurt ice cream and Katie got a scoop each of cheesecake and strawberry in a cone, plus we got a couple of cappuccinos. They will give you a free taste of any flavor you want. You can also get eat lunch (in a separate area). Once you get your ice cream, you can sit at a table and watch cows relaxing and eating on the other side of a glass wall. Seriously.

GULFOSS FALLS: This waterfall is considered one of Europe’s largest and most powerful waterfalls. My daughter opted to head all the way down to the bottom to see it in its entirety. I stayed at the viewpoint near the top of it as I didn’t feel like climbing down (and then up) all those steps. But it was gorgeous and just as huge as I remembered it.

GEYSIR: We opted out of Geysir, the third feature of the Golden Circle. Geysir is a geothermal area that shoots geysers up into the air (and is how the term “geyser” came to be). It's very impressive, but we were both tired and just wanted to rest. I had seen it before, so I left it up to my daughter but since she saw the geysers at Yellowstone, she felt that was enough.

HILL HOTEL (FLUDIR): This was where we were staying for the night in the little village of Pflüdir, and we really enjoyed our stay here. It was a very nice hotel, with an outdoor spa and sauna, and was very clean and modern looking. The price was $280 for one night. Our room was spacious and comfortable and a full breakfast was included. The one area they fell short was the restaurant. We decided to have dinner there, but we were very disappointed to find that at least half of the items on the restaurant menu were unavailable, including all the lamb entrees, which I was hoping to try. Instead, I settled for a chicken Caesar salad, which tasted nothing like a Caesar salad. Plus the chicken that came with it was heavily breaded and fried.

THE SECRET LAGOON: this is Iceland's oldest natural geothermal lagoon and it was only 5 minutes from the hotel, so we had booked it for that evening. There are strict rules mandated at all the lagoons and swimming pools in Iceland. None of them use any chemicals, so everyone, without exception, must shower nude before going in. Most lagoons have private showers you can use, but the Secret Lagoon did not, so we showered and dressed in a large room with other women. Neither of us are particularly modest, so it wasn’t a problem.

After showering, we put on our bathing suits and headed outside. We were quite cold heading into the water but once we stepped in—wow! What a phenomenal experience! The water, which comes from the underground hot springs, was around 104°F and felt so good. We stayed in for about an hour or so, then reluctantly climbed out. We were a bit nervous about leaving as we hated the thought of being cold again. However, the water heated our bodies so much that we didn’t feel cold at all as we went back in to shower. We also ran our swimsuits through a swimsuit dryer that was provided.

THE SHOE SWAP: After checking out of the Hill Hotel the next morning, we had to drive to Reykjavik for the shoe swap. We were heading in that direction anyway (sort of), so it only added about 30 minutes to our trip that day. We made it to the guy’s hotel (yes, they were men’s shoes, which says something about my shoe size), I gave the desk clerk a paper bag with his shoes and walked out with a paper bag containing mine. Easy peasy and such a relief to have them back again! One nice perk was that we were able to stop at Braud & Co again and pick up some of their delicious cinnamon rolls.

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REYKJANES PENINSULA: For our last full day in Iceland, we decided to visit this peninsula, which does not seem to get near the attention as other places in Iceland. But it has some dramatic volcanic landscapes and a geothermal area we wanted to check out. Plus, it was on the way to the airport, so it just seemed like a no-brainer.

KLEIFARVATN LAKE: this is the largest lake on the peninsula and is set in steep volcanic mountains with black volcanic sand beaches. It was hard to get a good photo, though, as the hills around it were very high and it was extremely windy! There was still a very dramatic scene, though, and we enjoyed looking around at the beautiful landscape.

SELTUN GEOTHERMAL AREA: This was one of my favorite stops in Iceland. The landscape was so colorful and vibrant that it almost looked like a painting. There were pools of all sizes with steaming hot water bubbling out of holes in the ground. The sulphur odor was very strong, but it was so beautiful; especially the variety of colors in the landscape. I really loved it there and had to tear myself away. There was also a viewpoint accessible by a metal staircase where you could walk along and then come back down another way. My daughter decided to walk that way, but I stayed behind and kept investigating all the thermal activity.

ÞÓRKÖTLUSTAÐIR RUINS: these are archeological ruins along the way that date back to the 13th century It is in an area that once contained a thriving fishing community back in the 1200's, but in 1627, Barbary Corsairs (pirates from North Africa) raided the area and captured the humans to sell as slaves. The village was abandoned and all you see today are the ruins.

THE BLUE LAGOON: I'll be honest, if you had asked me six months ago if we would be going to the Blue Lagoon, I would have laughed. First, it is heavily touristed and is probably the most popular attraction on the island. Second, it is enormously expensive, which is usually a deal breaker for me. But ultimately, I decided in favor of it due to convenience and curiosity. It was right on our way to the airport, we loved the lagoon experience we had the night before and I was curious to know whether it was worth the hype.
Because I waited till just a week or so before our trip to book, the basic package was not available for the day we wanted, so I had to go with the premium package. It came with some fun perks, like 2 free alcoholic drinks, 3 different mud masks at the Mask Bar, and 2 silica mud masks to take home. We were also given a cozy bathrobe to wear, towels, and a private locker.

The price for both of us was $320, which made me cringe a bit, but we both loved it! The lagoon was HUGE and the water felt even better than the Secret Lagoon from the previous evening. It was warmer, and sometimes you would walk into hot pockets of really warm water that felt incredible. We got our drinks and felt very decadent drinking them in the water. And of course, we loved the mud masks we got. All of the guests were very friendly, and we struck up several conversations with others as we moved around in the waters. Was it touristy? Definitely, but it was really fun and we felt incredible afterwards. I didn't begrudge the expense at all.

The one caveat is that the water did a number on our hair. It has a high silica and mineral content (it is supposedly excellent for treating psoriasis and other skin conditions), so most people do not get their hair wet or they wear a cap. We didn't do our research and so it took several days to get our hair back to normal, which involved a lot of conditioner. Lesson learned. Regardless, it was an incredible way to end our stay in Iceland.

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MARRIOT COURTYARD IN KEFLAVIK: I had a free night here, so opted to use it in Iceland, as I would definitely save more money than booking in the US. It was a basic Marriott hotel, although it was about a couple of miles from the airport, so we had to get a cab to come back after dropping our rental car off at the airport. The cost was $35, which seemed high for a mile or so drive, but it's hard to tell in Iceland, so I opted not to worry about it, especially since the hotel was basically free.

They do offer a shuttle to (not from) the airport. But you have to ask for it when you check in, and you have to be a Marriott Bonvoy member to take advantage of it.

LEAVING KEFLAVIK AIRPORT: Our flight was delayed about 30 minutes (we each got a text from Icelandair),, but we opted to go over early just in case. When we got there, it was a little confusing, but we finally managed to find the automatic bag check kiosks, get our bag tags, and then get in a long line (that moved quickly) to send them on their way. After that, we got some coffee and something to eat, as they hadn't announced our gate yet. We finally saw the gate number appear about 30 minutes before boarding, we made our way there and boarded soon after.

Icelandair's process for boarding seemed a bit different from most airlines, though.They board all the Saga Premium/First Class travelers first and then after that, it was hit or miss; basically boarding whoever makes it up to the front first. They were definitely not checking the sizes of any bags, and I didn't see anyone's bag pulled. Overall, though, it was pretty streamlined.

UP NEXT

STOCKHOLM TRIP REPORT: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/3-nights-in-stockholm-the-adventure-continues
NORWAY TRIP REPORT: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/the-adventure-finally-concludes-in-scenic-norway

Posted by
12811 posts

Katie, ha ha! It's finally done!

BostonPhil, thank you!

Posted by
9080 posts

The Icelandair trip, when they first started flights from/to Denver, is when I started bringing my meals (salads) with me. Even if meals are included on transatlantic flights now, I’ve been largely skipping airline food ever since.

One thing that you can purchase on Icelandair flights that’s worth considering - Fazer Mints! They’re from Finland, even better than York Peppermint Patties, and we even named a really special cat after them.

Posted by
2575 posts

Ah, wonderful report. Mardee! You've moved Iceland up the list.

Now, I need to pour a glass of wine before I settle in for the rest of your trip.

Posted by
946 posts

A very good trip report. Many people obviously love Iceland. I’m not one of them. I visited for two nights back in 2004, and it was fine and interesting, but no desire to see more. But you’ve almost persuaded me otherwise!

Posted by
2172 posts

Thanks for your detailed report! I just booked our flights to Iceland, so this is timely.

We will likely do a tour (gulp--I'm soo not a group activity person, but driving in October could be iffy), so we won't have choices in accommodation and such, but your report has piqued my anticipation.