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England's E. Midlands/Anglia a Treasure Trove of Sights

In September 2013, we stayed in a timeshare exchange at Barnsdale Country Club and Hall. It's a large country house with rooms in outbuildings overlooking Rutland Water (a large lake). The reception desk and some rooms are in the main, picturesque hall. Here, and in the restaurant, are the only places with internet access. There are also several A-frame cottages on the property overlooking the lake. The grounds were beautiful and well kept, our unit was clean as a whistle, and the reception folks were friendly and helpful.

We would definitely stay here again as it was a great location for seeing a spectacular part of England peppered with picturesque villages of golden stone and thatch roofs, countless historic homes, castles and palaces, wonderful pubs, and a large variety of scenery. A car is quite necessary (we rented from Avis at Heathrow) if you want to do any sightseeing. We had some excellent directions from those-who-shall-remain-unnamed faithful Helpline folks who took us to Barnsdale on a route past Lumbertubb road. We brought our own GPS preloaded it with addresses for all the sights we planned to see. As Americans, it definitely made driving on the left a tiny bit more carefree and we (well, the husband) were experts at negotiating roundabouts.

Since we were going to be in the English countryside for three weeks, before leaving the U.S., we purchased a Royal Oak U.S. membership ($95/couple) in the National Trust (NT). Thus, we focused extensively on seeing those properties since we didn’t have to pay further admission prices (be sure to check open dates/times). We also found that the Historic Houses Association membership really paid off ($95/couple). We found out about this too late to purchase it before our trip and bought it the first day at The Burghley House (the information packet and membership card was overnighted to us at Barnsdale).

There are charming villages with golden stone houses and thatched roofs everywhere making this as wonderful (or more so) an area to visit than the Cotswolds. In addition to driving through lots of villages and towns, we stopped in Stamford (near Burghley), Rockingham, Uppinham, Fotheringhay, Oundle, Peterborough, and Geddington. We really should have spent more time in Oakham as it seemed delightful when we drove to the Tesco grocery store.

Historic houses we saw besides Burghley House were Rockingham Castle and Grimsthorpe Castle (as well as others in different areas of England on the rest of the trip). We drove to Cambridge (about 90 minutes), parked at a park & ride to bus into the city, and took the city walking tour. In the afternoon, we went to Anglesey Abbey (NT). Another day we again drove about 90 minutes to take a tour at The National Stud in Newmarket, visit the Ely Cathedral in Ely, and took a walk around lovely Wicken Fen (NT). We really enjoyed the Foxton Locks (12 picturesque locks through which narrowboats travel up and down a hill), named after the village of Foxton and located a few miles west of Market Harborough. Another day we toured through Belton House (NT) about 45 minutes north in Grantham and combined that day with a tour of Grimsthorpe Castle. The Peterborough Cathedral was stunning. Another favorite was a trip to Lyveden New Bield (NT) which has a wonderful audio tour of the new-completed Victorian home and the partially completed Victorian-style gardens.

Restaurants we really enjoyed were the Fox & Hounds pub in Exton, Old White Hart in Lyddington, and The Olive Branch in Clipsham (the last two fall more into the “gastropub” or “bistro” category).

This trip was extremely successful thanks to the help and advice I received on the Travel Helpline and with Rick Steves' guidebooks.

Posted by
33818 posts

Kay

what a wonderful trip report!! I'm so glad that things worked out so well for you and you had so many wonderful thing to see.

I'm especially intrigued that you prefer - or at least equate - the villages and towns of Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, Rutland, and Lincolnshire with the Cotswolds. The stone is different but there are strong similarities. We love it here in the East.

We will have to try your pub suggestions.....

Posted by
10599 posts

Very interesting report. Now I have a dilemma...stick with the Cotswolds on my next trip or make some time for Nigel's neck of the woods. Why oh why don't I have more time??? What do you think Nigel?? You are so familiar with both areas.

Posted by
111 posts

Andrea, I went to both areas as well. The Cotswolds are very charming and the towns are a bit more geared toward tourists whereas the lovely towns in East Midlands are primarily patronized by locals. Of course, many are cute as well because the English and Europeans are attracted to this area. I imagine that the Cotswolds can be much busier traffic-wise, especially during high season. Personally, we are attracted to less touristy areas and more wide-open spaces. East Midlands fits the bill. It was clear, as we met locals, that American tourists are not the norm. Both areas have merits for sure. We enjoyed the week in E. Midlands; we enjoyed our 3 days in the Cotswolds. Toss a coin and you won't be unhappy with either. We're lucky we got to see both. (He-who-shall-not-be-named but whose first name starts with "N" was extremely helpful giving us hints of wonderful places to go see. Thank you, my friend!)

Posted by
2774 posts

Great report, Kay. I may have to add this area to my list. Possibly ahead of the Cotswolds, where I spent half a day one time.

Also, I just want to say that Grimsthorpe is the best name for a castle I ever heard. Did it live up to the name?

Posted by
111 posts

Grimsthorpe was palatial and beautiful. The only reason it is called a castle is because, in one era, the owners were given permission by the "king" to add crenellations (those notched, square shapes at the top of a tower). Grimsthorpe was never used in battle and isn't really castle-like but more palatial, elegant country home. We had a wonderful guide-led tour. The home is managed by a trust and the board members occasionally stay overnight here. Our admission was covered by the Historic Houses membership that we purchased.

Posted by
1329 posts

I really enjoyed your report, Kay. I hope to visit many of the same places someday. Thanks for posting!