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England - a driving excursion

During our 25 day trip we only needed cash one time at a launderette in Bishop’s Cleeve. For those who ask about Discover card acceptance, of all the places we went, most people had never heard of it. The gift shop at Blenheim Palace accepted it as did one vending machine.

We were taking part of this trip with another couple with the couples flying into Heathrow and Gatwick, so we spent two nights in London to ensure everyone arrived and to get over jet lag.

Staying near the Gloucester Road tube station, on arrival day the most we did was walk over the Kensington Palace and Hyde Park. On our full day, one couple went to visit the Churchill War rooms while we, having been there a couple times already, walked through St. James park and up to Buckingham Palace and back, then over to Westminster Abbey to occupy time. We also visited the UK Supreme Court building, something we hadn’t done previously.

The following day we departed London, picked up a rental car at Gatwick, and headed south to the Portsmouth area. After checking into our hotel we visited the Royal Armouries/Ft. Nelson and followed it with dinner at the Golden Lion in Southwick. The pub was used as an officers club during WWII and portions of Operation Overlord were planned there. General Eisenhower and Winston Churchill drank pints in the pub while General Montgomery stuck with juice.

The following day we visited the Royal Dockyards for 5.5 hours. Although the HMS Victory is undergoing a 10 year renovation and is enclosed in a building, it was still nice to visit. The Mary Rose exhibit was very impressive and we also enjoyed the old ships’ figureheads. While seldom open to the public, the Victory’s fore-topsail, the only remaining sail from the battle of Trafalgar, was only display. Before heading north from the Portsmouth area we visited Portchester Castle; a fairly well preserved ruin. Its keep is the second tallest Roman built tower in England.

On our free day between Portsmouth and our visit to Highclere Castle we drove over to Wallingford for its Agatha Christie connection as well as it serving as the fictitious town Causton in the television series Midsomer Murders.

The visit to Highclere Castle was a high point for a couple in our party. We arrived early and were able to get in right away. The total time spent at the castle and grounds was 2.5 hours. From it we drove to Abingdon for a couple nights.

During that stay we visited Blenheim Palace where Winston Churchill was born, along with Bladon where he is buried. That was followed by a visit to Bampton that was used as a filming location for the Downton Abbey series.

En route to Market Harborough we visited Bletchley Park and spent almost 4 hours there. While in Market Harborough we visited the former Spanhoe airfield where my father’s squadron was headquartered during WWII. C47s from the airfield participated in both the D-Day and Market Garden operations.

After dropping off our traveling companions we went to Amersham for a night before continuing on the the Cotswold villages of Bradford on Avon and Castle Combe. While in Amersham, the town celebrated its heritage day. En route to Bradford on Avon we stopped at the 5000 year old West Kennet Long Barrow and Silbury Hill; the tallest Neolithic mound in Europe.

Needing to waste a few hours before checking into the next hotel we visited Malmesbury Abbey followed by The Ancient Ram Inn in Wotton-under-Edge before continuing on to Castle Combe. The abbey was nothing special and manly served as a coffee and souvenir shop, although services are still held there. The Ram Inn is no longer open regularly, so we were not able to enter. It is supposedly one of the most haunted buildings in England.

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Conclusion

Castle Combe is a quintessential Cotswold village with stone buildings along the street through town. During the day it is filled with day trippers and is very quiet when they all leave. There are only a couple pubs in town and no shops. There’s little reason to spend more than a couple hours visiting it.

Departing Castle Combe and driving north we stopped at a pub in Burford that was formerly owned by the parents of an acquaintance of ours, the Neolithic/Bronze Age Rollright Stones, and St Peter's & St Paul's Church in Blockley. The church is used in the Father Brown television series. After making our mid-trip laundry stop we continued on to Tewkesbury.

After visiting Tewkesbury Abbey we drove to Telford to visit Blists Hill Victorian Town, then continued on to Chester. After walking around Chester we made a quick trip to Wales to visit The National Catholic Shrine of St Winefride.

Departing Chester we began the All Creatures Great & Small part of the trip. En route to Skipton we stopped at the Keighley & Worth Valley Railway station seen in the series. While driving the Yorkshire Dales we stopped at a number of the tv series’ filming locations, including Grassington, the fictional Darrowby, where the veterinarian surgery and Drovers pub in the series are located. Having had our fill of two-way, one lane roads with stone walls on either side, we were happy to leave the Dales behind us.

Next up were Bury St. Edmunds and Colchester. Between the two we visited Framlingham Castle and Flatford Mill. Both were enjoyable and each took less than 1.5 hours to see. Colchester has no major sites to see, but works fine for a stopover.

On our last full day with the car we visited Arundel Castle and English Martyrs Catholic Church in Goring-by-Sea to see the Sistine Chapel reproduction. Filling out the day we drove along the shore to Brighton and just drove along the town. Being rush hour and very busy we didn’t stop to walk the city.

After dropping off the rental car and checking into the airport hotel before our next day departure we took the train into London to pick up a couple items at Fortnum & Mason before returning to the hotel.

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What a great BBC inspired trip! But no Inspector Morse? Ha!

I’ve been to a number of these areas (not all) but even where I’ve been, you always find new and interesting stops. I now have new notes……

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At St Winifrede's well (long known as the Lourdes of Wales) I suggest going there at one of the public bathing times, it can be quite intense spiritually watching those in the well. I was there a few weeks ago (and took advantage of the seniors discount), and timed it for bathing time. Most people bathe fully clothed by the way.

It's also close to the end of the North Wales Pilgrim Trail which starts at Bardsey Island, off the Lleyn peninsula (known for it's wildlife and birdlife as well as it's Christian importance).
The Pilgrim Trail continues another mile or so to the ruins of Basingwerk Abbey through the Greenfield Valley Heritage Park.

Also in Holywell there is the town museum, which incorporates the Point of Ayr Colliery Museum- the mining history of that part of North Wales is relatively little known. So there is more to do in Holywell than just the Holy Well.