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Eight Days in Prague in October: a Solo Traveller's Trip Report

I took my first solo trip in a few years this month. I’m switching jobs and have a nice little 3-month Sabbatical between ending one and starting another. Given the time away from work, I decided to spend 8 days in Prague in October. It was a new destination for me. It appeared on my radar largely due to the Honest Guide YouTube channel, which makes Prague look like a very attractive place to visit. I had considered a 3-week trek through Czechia (including Prague), but for family reasons, I ended up going with the shorter trip to Prague.

My resources for planning the trip included Honest Guide videos, the Rick Steves Prague & Czech Republic guide, numerous Google searches, and numerous YouTube videos.

The timing of the trip was partially guided by flight costs. I got a decent deal on a “Delta One” (business class) fare that included the last JFK-Prague flight for the season. That gave me a chance to check out the new Delta One lounge at JFK. It’s a very sharp-looking lounge. The food is a step up from the Sky Club, but certainly nothing earth shattering. To me, it kind of feels like Sysco Plus in the Delta One Lounge versus Sysco Basic in the Sky Club lounge. The Delta One lounge has a sit-down, full-service restaurant that requires a reservation and allows one to eat dinner before the flight. I decided to try that and to decline the in-flight meal. Honestly, the menu is about the same for plane and restaurant, and the restaurant food did not strike me as particularly superior to plane food.

As for lodging, I stayed at Hotel Haštal. I liked the hotel quite a bit. Front desk staff were professional, friendly and helpful. Breakfast was great. The neighborhood was reasonably quiet, even though it was just a few blocks off Old Town Square. I reserved the one room in the hotel with a balcony; I enjoyed sitting on it in the evening while watching the world go by. The morning breakfast buffet had many hot and cold choices. My biggest criticism is that the WiFi dropped out from time to time – not for a long time, but just long enough to be annoying and long enough to lose connections on WiFi phone calls. My second criticism is bad coffee – both the brewed coffee in the breakfast area (weak) and the coffee from the espresso machine in the lobby (not very pleasing flavor to me). Happily, there was a great hole-in-the-wall coffee shop half a block down the street called ONESIP COFFEE. Great coffee with a young, friendly staff.

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Private Guides

  • Michal from Real Prague Tours. I did a day trip to Saxon Switzerland and Bohemian Switzerland with Michal, the 30-something-year-old owner of Real Prague Tours and the winner of Dave’s award for Favorite Prague Guide. Granted, Michal’s subject matter was great – Bastei Bridge, a hike to Pravčická brána (an arch in Bohemian Switzerland), a short boat ride through Wilde Klamm (Gorge), and traditional Czech food. But Michal's knowledge and experience of Czechoslovak and Czech Republic life (which he freely shared) and his personable, pleasant, patient nature made a tour with him something truly special. I hope to return to Prague in the next year or two, and Michal will without doubt be my choice for a guide on my return.
  • Peter from Real Prague Tours. Michal created a custom-made day trip for me that was done with Peter to (1) Konopiště Castle, the home of Archduke Franz Ferdinand (of Sarajevo 1914 fame), and (2) Tabor, a 15th century fortress town of the Taborites, a Hussite (Protestant) faction led by a warrior’s warrior, Jan Žižka, who lost sight in one eye as a child and in another eye late in adulthood after taking an arrow to the face during battle (despite that, he never lost a battle). Great sites for Dave the history buff -- holy cow, at Konopište, I stood in a room in which Austrian Emperor Franz Josef once slept! Time in Tabor included a tour of cellars and tunnels under the city plus a visit to the Hussite Museum. Peter was a professional, experienced guide.
  • Martina with Art of Your Travel. I did 2 tours with Martina: (1) an 8-hour Operation Anthropoid tour that included a trip to Lidice to see the field where the razed old village once stood and to see the nearby new village whose construction began in 1949 and (2) a 2.5-hour tour of Vyšehrad including the cemetery and the church. The Operation Anthropoid trip was much enjoyed by this history buff, and the Vyšehrad tour felt like I was wandering the area with a friend. Martina is a smart, spunky guide who does not shy away from sharing her views on anything, from Prague drivers to Czech/Slovak politics. She is young and fun.
  • Jason with Living Prague Tours. My 6-hour walking tour included the Old Town, Jewish Quarter, Lesser Town, and Castle. Jason provided a professional, efficient, polished tour that was packed with information and included suggestions for restaurants and other activities.
  • Rick Steves. Okay, so Rick did not directly give me a tour, but his Old Town/Charles Bridge and Wenceslas Square walking tours in the guidebook were excellent. I walked the path over about 6 hours, supplementing Rick’s walks with information from the Honest Guide while also following my nose a bit where it led me.
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Food Tours

  • The Delicious Food Tour through Prague Food Tours. This tour covered traditional Czech food and is the winner of Dave’s award for Best Food Tour. My tour was led by George, one of the owners of the company; he’s one of those super friendly guys who is always smiling and whose dynamic personality creates an experience that exceeds expectations. The tour had very good stops with very good food; George supplemented the food part of the tour with much discussion about Prague, its sights, and Czech life as we moved from restaurant to restaurant. Portions and total food consumed were appropriate – not over-the-top as I have experienced on some food tours in the past. Highly recommended.
  • Prague: Iconic Cafes Early Bird Morning Food Tour. I met my guide Václav at the Powder Bridge at 9 am and then we visited 4 cafes (plus did a lot of walking) over 4 hours. I liked the selection of cafes, and the food was great. Václav was eager to talk about the city and Czech life. The tour had room for 10 participants: I was the only one to sign up for it. The tour ran anyway because it is a new tour, and the company was looking for a good review to help push it up the algorithm of the platform it is on. The tour was a bit on the pricey side, but since I ended up with essentially a private guide for a cafe tour, it ended up being pretty reasonable.
  • Prague Foodie Tour by Taste of Prague. This food has some traditional Czech food plus some more contemporary dishes. This tour was focused tightly on the food and its story. There was less talking about Prague as we walked from place to place. The guide was super knowledgeable and friendly but did not have the charisma of George. The tour finished with a traditional Czech cocktail, which was a nice way to end the experience. The company provides a Prague Foodie Map immediately after registration for a tour, which was a nice touch. Again, reasonable portions and reasonable total food consumed. A very good tour.

Cafes

  • Café Slavia. Classy place. Wait staff looks sharp. Guy in a suit and tie playing a grand piano in the corner. My favorite café I visited.
  • Café Louvre. Another classy joint. Very busy! Great blueberry pie. I got cappuccino but someone told me later to go for the Louvre Café special hot chocolate. Maybe next time!
  • Café Imperial. Drop dead gorgeous with amazing blue and yellow tiles. Great food. Reservation needed so I am told – I was here as part of one of the food tours.
  • Cathedral Café. Near Týn Cathedral. Excellent Eggs Benedict.
  • Grand Café Orient. First floor of the House of the Black Madonna. 1920’s/1930’s décor with smart-looking wait staff and 1920’s/1930’s music playing overhead. Really nice experience.
  • Au Gourmand. French bakery with an atmospheric indoor seating area and very pleasant outdoor garden seating area. About a block off Old Town Square.
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Restaurants

  • Municipal House Restaurant. Great food that is overpriced but baked into that price is the experience of eating in a gorgeous art nouveau restaurant. I was soooo excited and soooo delighted to have this experience. And I met up with a Rick Steves forum member and her travel companion there.
  • Las Adelitas. Mexican food! There are a few of these in Prague. Itanded on my list due to the Honest Guide. Quite wonderful street tacos. The hot salsa? Pretty mid (as the kids say).

Performances

  • Prague Symphony Orchestra at Smetana Hall at the Municipal House. Antonín Dvořák (Slavic Rhapsody No 3 in A flat major Op 45), Max Bruch (Violin Concerto No 1 in G minor Op 28), Josef Suk (Symphony in E major Op 14). Excellent performance in a cool environment. If you go to a performance there, don’t stand and lean back against the seat when someone needs to pass you to get to their seat. The rows of seats are not fixed, and leaning sends the row of seats into the knees of the people behind you. Oops.
  • Prague Radio Symphony Orchestra at the Rudolfinum. Jindřich Feld (Concerto for Cello and Orchestra), Joseph Suk (Symphony No 2 “Asrael”). Wonderful concert. Gorgeous performance hall. It hit me at intermission how fortunate I am to be able to listen to classical music in such incredible spaces. As for dress, I was definitely in the bottom decile with my khaki pants and button down shirt.
  • Barber of Seville at the National Theater. I chickened out. I forgot to pack a jacket/tie. One of my guides said people go to the National Theater super dressed up. The website said, “Dress codes are only required for special events. By their appearance, the visitors indicate that they are aware of the festive occasion they are experiencing at the theatre.” That seems like code. Plus it was the last night of the trip… street tacos sounded good.

Purchases

  • Wooden Czech Republic Travel Tokens. I usually buy a Christmas ornament with each trip. In the Czech Republic, nearly all tourist sites have a wooden travel token with a small metal ring that costs around $2. I bought 4 of these, and they will work great as ornaments.
  • Tabor Mug. I also usually buy a coffee mug. Each morning at home, I pull out a different mug and have pleasant memories of a prior trip as I enjoy my coffee. For this trip, I found a handmade mug at the Tabor TI office.
  • Colored and Mechanical pencils. Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth carries art products, including colored pencils made in Czechia since 1790. A nice gift for “the young adult,” who likes to draw.
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Sights

  • Municipal House. As many know, this is a spectacular Art Nouveau building. I took the tour of the interior rooms. Multiple people on this forum recommend just walking around to see the public spaces, but the interior tour is something special. Visitors get to see gorgeous rooms but also get to learn the artistic flow of the building and the overt subversive themes (at least to the Austro-Hungarian Empire) of Slavic unity and independence. The building is a stunning, cohesive masterpiece.
  • Old Mucha Museum & New Mucha Museum. I hit both to compare them. The old museum has a great video of Mucha’s life and has a nice collection of Mucha’s work displayed. The new museum is more atmospheric in terms of the building but a little less satisfying with respect to the art displayed. The gift shop in the new museum is superior to that in the old museum. I would give a bit of a nod to the old museum due to its content. My understanding is the new building/museum will be the home of the Slav Epic when it returns to Prague. If true, that will rocket the new museum past the old museum.
  • Speculum Alchemy Museum. This is a 30-minute activity, but I thought it was very cool. A 16th century hidden underground alchemy laboratory was discovered at the edge of the Jewish quarter after flooding in 2002. It was associated with Rudolf II, who had quite the interest in alchemy. The laboratory has been opened as an attraction that can only be visited via a 30-minute, cash-only tour. As I recall, entrance was 200 Czech crown – pretty reasonable to me.
  • Bethlehem Chapel. The rebuilt chapel where church reformer Jan Hus preached in the Czech language (scandalous!) in the early 15th century (if you don’t know, Hus ultimately was burnt at the stake on July 6,1415, after being declared a heretic by the Council of Constance). The chapel was rebuilt by… surprisingly… the Communists… in the 1950s; they were trying to connect communism to the egalitarian beliefs of Hus (such as communion from the cup for all [not just priests], equal expectations for behavior for all [no indulgences], godly behavior by all [priests and laity]). The preacher’s quarters attached to the chapel are original, and Hus lived there for some period of time.
  • The Army Museum at Žižkov. An excellent museum that covers Czech military history from the clans that settled the area in the 7th century AD to the present.
  • The National Monument at Vitkov. The monument, a short uphill walk from the Army museum, includes an enormous sculpture of Jan Žižka on a horse. The Czech Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is also there. There are great views over Prague from the top of the monument. I liked it!

Weaknesses of my trip to be corrected on a return trip.

  • As usual, I overpacked the trip with scheduled activities. There definitely was some time for wandering, but I think more time to do this – especially away from the Old Town – would be a good use of time.
  • I probably also got a little carried away with food tours, which decreased my opportunity to check out restaurants on my own. Dinner a couple of nights consisted of cold cuts, cheese, bread, and blueberries from the grocery near the hotel that were consumed on the balcony of my hotel room. Honestly, that was pretty worthwhile.
  • I wanted to try to catch a film at either Edison FilmHub or Kino Lucerna, art house theaters whose films usually have Czech and English subtitles. Film culture seems to be alive and well in Prague, unlike the US. I had three films on my list – one was on the night of arrival (too tired), one was on a tour day that ran long (too late), and one was on a good day to see a film but when I tried to buy a ticket in the afternoon for an evening showing, the film was already sold out.
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Conclusion

Prague is awesome. There are beautiful buildings everywhere you look in the city center. There is a lot of activity but also oases of quiet a block or two away from the masses. There is so much to see, do and explore. I think I have a new favorite city.

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Great report!

You point us to some great dining possibilities but you don't mention any dishes besides tacos and Eggs Benedict --- tell us me more about the local cuisine.

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Thanks for the report, Dave! Excellent writing and great details. I will refer to your report when I return to Prague.