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Solo Edinburgh & Glasgow in September 7 nights/days

I flew into/ out of EDI - I took the airport bus #100 to/from the airport – it’s easy to find the pick up location when you exit the airport. Tapped my credit card to buy a return ticket. The terminal stop is across from the Scott monument, in front of the T.J Maxx store. It takes about 30 minutes.
On my last day I travelled back to EDI in the morning - I decided to stay at a downtown hotel and had an early morning departure to the airport.
I took the commuter train to Glasgow Queen station to/ from Glasgow – about 5 stops between the cities and takes 55 minutes – you need to scan your ticket to get on the platform and when you leave station. They scan your tickets during the train journey. The train has shelving above the seats for your suitcase. There is free ScotRail wi-fi.

What I did in EDI
My flight arrived early at about 6 am, Sunday. By the time I got into EDI it was about 7:30am. I found my hotel in the New Town and left my luggage there. Then I walked across the bridge to the Royal Mile and walked down and up the lower half of the Royal Mile. I stopped at the TI to get a map and asked about which bus to take to Dean Village (#77). When I got to the Dean area, I missed the turn to find the path and did a lot of back tracking. There is a simple sign that says Dean Path on one of the side streets – I assumed that was the name of the street - I was very, very jetlagged – I didn’t sleep at all on my overnight flight.
The path along the Dean is very picturesque and when you get to the village there are many quaint, beautiful buildings to look at. I’m sure the people that live in those houses must be tired of the gawking tourists taking photos. I would have liked to walk more in the area but I was so tired I was stumbling. I took the bus back to the town centre, checked into my hotel and had to sleep for a few hours.
On Monday I walked around the New Town and the rest of the Royal Mile. I loved walking up and down the many wynds/ closes along the Royal Mile. My favourite is Pirrie’s Close – the lane way is decorated with iron work grilles in many different designs. I booked an online ticket to see St. Giles and was expecting that there would be a guided tour to go along with it but it isn’t the case or did I misunderstand? – it seems to be another way to encourage a donation. At Edinburgh Castle I had pre-booked a 3 pm entrance ticket and bought an audio guide on entrance – it was worthwhile and is narrated by several Scots. It’s a huge place and still busy at that time – there was a long but moving line-up to see the Scottish crown jewels. That afternoon was the sunniest day while I was there.

The third day (Tuesday) I took a Rabbie’s tour- St. Andrews and the Fishing Villages of Fife. It was nice to rest my legs. The bus station is a 3 minute walk from the hotel. There are two brief stops in Elsnie (?) and Anstruther before it arrives in St Andrews. On Tuesdays the fisheries museum in Anstruther is closed. You get about three hours in St. Andrew’s – the bus drops you off near the West Sands Beach/ St Andrews’s golf course. The tide was very low when we arrived so I walked along the beach for about 20 minutes and then walked to centre of town to get lunch. I had haddock and chips at Cromar’s. It was delicious and the fish so tender and tasty - too hot to eat when it was brought to my table. Afterwards I walked to the ruins of St Andrew’s cathedral. I was disappointed- I’ve seen the ruins of Tintern Abbey and Fountains Abbey in England and St Andrews doesn’t have the dramatic view of first seeing them as you walk down into the valley. Also, most of the ruins that are tall walls/ towers are fenced off due to safety concerns. Many church tombstones are fenced off too as there is the risk of them toppling over. When I walked back I looked at the quadrangle of St. Andrews University (St Salvador’s). I misunderstood when we needed to be back at the bus and short changed myself by 30 minutes.

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On the way back to EDI, there is a short stop at Falkland- another pretty village, just enough time to have a quick look at Falkland Palace before it closes for the day if you want, but I just walked around the streets. When the bus returns to EDI you go over a different bridge than the one taken in the morning. The chatty driver was entertaining, telling us about Scottish history, ancient and more recent, sprinkled with personal opinion and some personal stories. When he needed a break from talking, he played music by Scottish performers. We were dropped off the bus a few blocks from the bus station- we were told that the station was too busy at that time (5:30pm). I walked back to my hotel, I realized I left my phone on the bus! Paula at the hotel was so helpful and left a message at Rabbie’s. A few hours later they had called back with information that they had found my phone and that I should go to the bus station the next morning to retrieve it.
The next morning, I went to the National Museum of Scotland (NMS), saw the special exhibit Beyond the Little Black Dress – I have an interest in clothing/ fashion, had lunch at the café and then spent another hour or so seeing other regular displays in the museum. It’s a beautiful building with so many interesting displays. I had left my suitcase at Waverley station - $$$ as I spent more than three hours at NMS before heading to Glasgow. Waverley station is confusing. I purchased my ticket at the office in the station. I had a return ticket EDI Glasgow Queen station EDI ticket charge and a charge from LNE when I checked my CC at home.

When I arrived in Glasgow I found the TI office just before the 5 pm closing and got a paper map and bus route info to my west end hotel. The bus driver wasn't familiar with my hotel (Argyll -maybe I mispronounced it?) but I got off at a stop steps away from the hotel. The location is so convenient to the Kelvingrove and several restaurants w. of the hotel and about a 10-15 minute walk to Argyle St. I settled in my room, then walked around the neighbourhood and ate at Brewdog (huge 7 oz. burger and fries).

The next morning I went to the Kelvingrove, saw the Mary Quant exhibit and heard a little bit of the 1 pm organ concert that happens in the main hall. After a vegetarian lunch at Mother India cafe I went back to the Kelvingrove to look at some of the regular exhibits. The Salvador Dali St. John of the Cross painting is on loan to a Spanish gallery when I was there.
Later in the afternoon, I walked down Argyle St - many, many restaurants, cute stores, - found a fruit/veg store that had more variety than the small Sainsburys and bought new season English apples, then went back to the Sainsbury to buy herbal tea as the hotel only provided black tea bags.

For my last day in Glasgow I went downtown, walked the pedestrian streets/ shopping area. I had a 1 pm booking at McIntosh at the Willow - I had afternoon tea, managed to eat 2/3 of it and packed up the remaining 1/3 for later. A reservation is essential and be sure you go to the right place. While I was there about 6 groups dropped in and left - half had reservations for the Willow Cafe and the other half were hoping to have lunch at McIntosh at the Willow but didn't have reservations. After lunch I went to Glasgow Cathedral - but first went to the next door Museum of Relgious.. .. ( I know I don't have the full name) as a wedding was finishing at the Cathedral. After an hour, I went back to the cathedral - I wonder if the wedding had been in the choir section - it was cordoned off at the choir screen.

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1252 posts

I wouldn't expect a bus driver to know a particular hotel. A taxi driver, yes. How were you pronouncing it? It was probably just fine.

Interestingly, "Argyle Street" in Glasgow is spelled like that, while the region of western Scotland is spelt "Argyll". There's an "Argyll Street" in central London though. Someone on the forum may know why this is without Googling.

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More of last day in Glasgow
The leftovers of my afternoon tea were my dinner in my room. The bed at the Argyll was the most comfortable of my 3 hotels, though the floors are creaky and uneven- it's in a Georgian building- and the walls are thin - I could hear someone snoring in an adjacent room one night and the other night two people talking for a long time. I packed up my suitcase and spent the evening reading a book - I could only get one awful TV station on the tiny screen in my room.

Saturday - Back to Edinburgh; last day.
Took the train back to EDI - left my insulated water bottle on the seat. I think I've learned my lesson now to never put something down on the seat. I left my suitcase at my hotel (Hub by PI south of Waverley Station) and walked down the Royal Mile, had an early lunch at Oink. I walked to Holyrood Park and walked to the top of Arthur's Seat from the rear side- I think it's tougher climb that way- not what I was looking for. When I walked down I came down the other side and it is was fairly easy. Sometimes climbing down is more difficult and treacherous than the uphill climb.
I walked around the New Town a bit more in the late afternoon, but unfortunately didn't find the yarn store I was looking for - I was on the right street but didn't have the street # for it and there were upper and lower level stores and smaller signs than what we have in Canada.
The Hub room is tiny with a very high bed and storage under the bed. I went to bed early for my early departure on Sunday.

Best meal was at Dishoom - ruby chicken - get a reservation if you want to eat there - I didn't have a reservation but was okay to be seated at the window side bar tables; second best meal was the fish and chips in St. Andrew's (Cromars).

I took 40 pounds cash at a bank machine - probably could have managed without cash. CC tap is accepted everywhere even for very small amounts; only one venue had a minimum 1 pound tap amount ( St. Giles church gift shop).
Best of the three hotels - PI York Place- spacious room, large screen TV and wide program selection, no noise from adjacent rooms.

Posted by
7837 posts

One of CalMac's ABC [Argyle, Bute and Coruisk] ships is called Argyle as well.

Apparently they used that spelling because there had been an earlier Clyde paddle steamer Argyle, but also their reading of the etymology (right or wrong) was that Argyle was the original and Argyll is a corruption.

Who knows?

This is the kind of question which Auchterless (Mike) could probably easily answer off the top of his head. Hopefully he'll be back with us soon.

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1252 posts

It's a shame the museum at Anstruther was closed. Maybe off-season opening hours? Anstruther's a nice wee place but there's not much to it really. It's quite an interesting choice of tour to take. I hope you enjoyed it.

I spent quite a bit of time in that end of Fife as a child. My mum bred rabbits (English rabbits, white with black spots) and showing rabbits was a popular pastime in the coal mining villages of Fife. No coal mining left now. Not sure if they still have rabbit shows.

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62 posts

Tuesday seemed to be the one day a week the Fisheries museum is closed. The stop there is brief about 30 minutes- enough time for a snack, quick walk and bathroom break if needed. Beautiful beach.

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1252 posts

There's several nice beaches and harbours along that bit of coast. It's a nice idea for a day out from Edinburgh.

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62 posts

Yes and it was so nice to see the gentle rolling hills of the countryside and farm land- mostly barley, some other crops.

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7978 posts

So glad you got to see the Mary Quant exhibit. I was disappointed that it didn't start till after I was gone. And yes to Dishoom! Such wonderful food! Just an FYI, though, you can make a reservation for lunch; just not dinner.

I also had lunch at Mother India cafe after I left the Kelvingrove. Very tasty food!

Thanks for sharing!

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62 posts

I think I had typical weather: low clouds every day, damp, brief sun each day, a few minutes drizzle each day. Temperatures were about 14-17 Celsius during the day time. There was one evening and one night where there was heavier rainfall.

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62 posts

Yes I really enjoyed the Mary Quant exhibit and only learned about it a few weeks before I left. Very glad to have the opportunity to see it. Where I live there are infrequent exhibits about fashion designers.

Photos weren't permitted. I really liked that some of the clothing was on a slowly rotating turntable so that all sides could be seen. I bought the exhibit book.

I had my Sunday supper at Dishoom. They asked if I had a reservation when I arrived.

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153 posts

Susan - We also wanted to see Dean Village, so we walked from Queen Street early one morning (my sister is a wiz with google maps) I have to agree with your statement that the residents must be tired of gawking tourists because they were the most unfriendly bunch of people - the only unfriendly people we met in all of Scotland in our entire 11 days. Only one of them with a dog (and dogs are everywhere) would even talk to us or say hello. We didn't stay long and will not visit again on our next trip. I live in a tiny tourist town so I understand how frustrating tourists can be, but they could at least say "good morning". Did want to peep into the abandoned school, the door was open but sadly common sense prevailed. Loved Edinburgh - it immediately became one of my most favorite cities. Thank you for your trip report.

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1252 posts

Susan ToCA,
I think you did have typical weather for September. Glad you missed the really heavy rain that fell a couple of weekends ago.