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Dubrovnik / Korcula - Review Sept 2021

FYI that my wife and I have used Rick's books on our European travels for 25 years - 12 trips. This one was for our 25th anniversary to Dubrovnik and Korcula! It was tough deciding whether to go due to Covid but glad we did as all worked out. If you are planning to go, definitely get prepared on what you need to do. Doing our research and just asking questions of our guides and hotel managers was a huge help.

Sites:
Dubrovnik:
- Loved Lokrum Island, The Walls of course, Stradun, morning and evening walks in the Old Town, gondola ride to Mt. Srd, kayak ride around the wall, our side trips to Mostar, Montenegro and Konavle region/Cavtat, Peljesac Peninsula and great wine.
Korcula
- evening walks around Promende in the old town (see below), sunsets, walking up to the church tower, side trips to Lumbarda (Bire Winery and beaches), Vrnik Island.

Guides:
- We used Rick's recommendations of Petar Vlasic (for Pelajesac and transfer to Korcula/Orebic); Ermin/Alma Elezovic (Mostar); and Pepo Klaic (Montenegro and Konavle and airport transfers). All were excellent and totally worth it. Took us to great spots.

Hotels:
- Karmen Apartments (Dubrovnik; now Van Bloeman Apartments) - excellent as always; great spot and service; only stayed here one night.
- St. Joseph's Hotel (Dubrovnik; not in Rick's book) - stayed here a week; it's a splurge but would highly recommend. One of the few hotels in the old city. It's on a quiet side street. Great service and rooms. Staff was always smiling and willing to help with anything. Wonderful breakfast each morning.
- Hotel Korsal (Korcula - in Rick's book) - very solid. Short walk to the Old Town if you don't mind it. Great breakfast. Staff was nice. Rooms are very good sized for Europe.

Restaurants:
Dubrovnik:
- Loved - Restaurant Dubrovnik, Oliva Pizzareria, Restaurant Dalmatino, Kopun, Konoba Vinica Monkavic (in Konavle), Restaurant Panarama, Spaghetteria Toni (all in book); Pizzaria Mirakul, Gianni Gelato (both not in book)
Korcula:
- Loved - Aterina, Filippi, Adio Mare, Mariola's (not in book - wine bar next to Bokar; would check it out)
Others we loved in other places:
- City Restaurant (Kotor)
- Bisentine (Mostar)
- Cafe de Alma (Mostar)
- Caffe Konoba Vitacae (Trestinik on Peljesac Peninsula)
- Mom and Pop Oyster Shack that Petar took us to (on Peljesac Peninsula - I'm working to get the name of this)
Final Thoughts:
- On Korcula, the lighted promenade at night along the city's wall is one of our favorite European short walks. Great vibe and aura.
- Also on Korcula, in terms of other day trips, would recommend Vrnik island along with the others. Nice small cafe there and beach spots. You can get there by the same water taxis.

Thanks to Rick and Cameron for all of their great research that helped us a ton! We look forward to our future travels!

Posted by
2581 posts

Hi, Tom! Thanks for sharing your experience. Happy 25th anniversary! I decided to pull the plug on a trip to Bosnia that included Mostar (was to leave yesterday) due to crazy high COVID rates in my community, frequent exposure to COVID-19 in my workplace (where 2 of my vaccinated colleagues have contracted the infection), and rates going up in Bosnia. I noticed you mentioned restaurants in Mostar. Did you visit the city as a day trip or stay overnight? What did you think about the city?

Posted by
2798 posts

Enjoyed your detailed report! Brought back fond memories of our 2018 tour. Top favorite island was Korcula. Agree, great vibe! We also stayed at the wonderful Hotel Korsal. Great location, comfortable rooms & delicious breakfast. Unforgettable Mostar was truly a life altering experience. Thanks for sharing.

Posted by
1037 posts

Thank you, Tom, for your wonderful trip report. I am especially glad to learn that Ermin and Alma continue to live and work in Mostar. Ermin drove me from Mostar to Sarajevo one long day several years ago, when I traveled alone in Croatia and BiH. He was so wise, kind, and insightful, as we visited several beautiful and amazing sites during the day. The day that I spent with him was truly a highlight of that trip - and of any trip I have ever taken. I was hoping that their businesses had survived the pandemic. Your trip report was good news.

Posted by
6 posts

@dave - Sorry to hear about your postponement of your trip. Yes, for Mostar, it was just a day trip for us. Ermin/Alma picked us up in Dubrovnik in the morning and then brought us back. It was a lot of travel and we spent probably 4 hours in the city. Really enjoyed the city - culturally very rich. The old bridge is as beautiful as it's described in the book. Alma was a great city guide for us and we enjoyed all of her stories and descriptions. The streets are tight like any old European city but I didn't feel that it was crazy crowded.

Posted by
2041 posts

My father-in-law was born on Vrnik. We are going there on Tuesday to see my husband’s aunt. The family has two houses, the ones above the beach, next to the hotel/cafe. We’ve been going there since 1978. We are in Dubrovnik now and ate at Kopun last night. We are staying at Dubrovnik Gardens, also in Rick’s book. We are also using Petar of Dubrovnikrivieratours.com to go to Kotor and Cavtat. Did you notice all the young people here, from various countries. More so then pensioners. Everyone is so happy for the tourists and we only use a mask indoors.

Posted by
1063 posts

Sounds great! I just spent a couple of days in Dubrovnik, doing most of what you did and am headed for 3 nights in Korcula in a couple of weeks with no real plan, so I will bookmark this. :)

I spent an overnight in Mostar and I would definitely go back for more, plus more time in other places in Bosnia. It isn’t “polished” yet, and I like that.

Thank you for such a detailed itinerary and experience! I am hoping to visit next year and appreciate your insights.