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DIY South African Safaris

Because I’m allergic to group tours and have done this successfully twice now, thought I might share what worked for me for anyone contemplating a DIY trip to South Africa to see amazing animals. It’s easier than you might think.

Because Africa is on the other side of the equator, seasons are reversed from ours. I like going in July or August, SA’s winter - fewer leaves on the trees for easier viewing, no mosquitoes, and no snakes! Other seasons are better for baby animals and warmer weather. But there’s nothing quite like leaving Hotlanta in the middle of summer, packing a down jacket.

Getting there

The worst part is the flight. From Atlanta, Delta flies direct to Johannesburg in 15+ hours, which feels endless. I booked exit aisle seats in Main cabin six months ahead for my friend and me, to guarantee I had room for my long legs and a wall to sleep against, but neglected to turn off “Request Upgrade” and got a night before message from Delta that I had been upgraded…to a middle seat in Comfort. (Nobody wants me for an overnight roommate in the middle seat!) After a middle of the night meltdown (first world problem, I know) Delta unblocked two seats in the exit aisle in the middle section so my friend and I could at least sit together. (My solution was to give whoever took my original seat my new seat in Comfort, but apparently that’s not an option.)

The 10PM ATL flight arrives at 7:40PM at Tambo in Jo’burg. We needed the closest airport hotel to collapse in before the next day’s flight to our first safari camp. My first trip I stayed in the fancy Intercontinental, literally across the street from the Arrivals hall at Tambo. For $300+ I took an Ambien, slept 8 hours, and checked out before breakfast to catch a shuttle to the camp. This trip we walked one block further to the shuttle bus pickup for the Marriott Protea Hotel’s van to their airport hotel, not as fancy but plenty nice, for about $75 including breakfast. (The worst thing we did was terribly undertip our porter with our new SA Rand for which we hadn’t yet figured out the conversion rate. Still feel bad about that.)

I’ve never actually visited downtown Johannesburg, but the drive through the outskirts on my first trip, past neighborhood compounds with broken glass-topped walls, did not make it feel inviting. From my limited experience, I would say fly into Tambo and move on. First trip we took a 5+ hour shuttle up to the Krueger area. This trip it was much easier to fly to Hoedspruit (the airport nearest our safari camp) on Airlink. https://www.flyairlink.com/en/za. We were in the air less than an hour and they had time to serve drinks and a sandwich.

What you don’t want to do is drive! Driving is on the left, like the UK, and traffic signs are more suggestions. The farther north you go, the bigger the potholes and the more pedestrian and livestock traffic on the highways. On faster stretches closer to Jo’burg, cars passed us on the shoulder on the left and blew through stop signs. The only time I was scared in SA was in a pre-booked van ride at night from Durban when I thought it possible I might wake up in a hospital in one of the HIV hotspots in the world.

This sounds alarmist and is not meant to frighten, but to help you make good decisions. It is very easy to have your safari camps arrange all your ground transportation from airports and on to the next camp with safe and friendly drivers. I would plan transfers only during daylight hours. This trip I booked all our transportation before we left ATL and it worked perfectly.

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Sausage Tree Safari Camp

https://www.sausagetree.co.za/the-safari-camp

Sausage Tree, in the Olifants West Nature Preserve within the Greater Kruger National Park, was my first safari experience in 2018, and remains my favorite camp. It’s a small, luxury, tented camp with five tents for ten lucky guests, often Europeans. “Tent” is misleading; this is glamping, with king (or twin) beds and air-conditioning, a big modern bathroom, and a glorious outdoor shower strategically placed so you look out onto all of Africa, with only the animals looking in. (One afternoon I watched an elephant walk by!)

A day at Sausage Tree starts with a 5:45 AM knock on your tent and 6 AM tea and rusks before loading into your open safari truck with your guide and tracker for the morning drive. They get you out early when the animals are most visible. The Big Five, plus plenty more smaller and flying creatures roam free, and your guide and tracker are dedicated to finding them, getting you safely close to them, and helping you understand what you’re seeing. I have been close enough to touch a lion walking by the truck (and smart enough not to.) They say - As long as you remain quiet and seated, the truck full of people is not threatening to even the most ferocious lion. But stand up or start flapping around, and you look like lunch!

Breakfast is outside on the deck late morning after morning drive, cooked to order and delicious. Lunch is served at one, but I only participated on the first day, quickly realizing I needed sleep more than additional food. Afternoon safari drives start later in the day, with a break for sundowners (gin and tonics and nibbles for most of us) and return to camp after dark. The beating of the drum about 8 PM signals dinner is ready in the open, candlelit BOMA. Different members of the staff shared meals with us each day, and Chef Pitso’s cooking skills were amazing. The rate you pay is all-inclusive of meals and safaris, so at the end of your stay, only your bar tab remains to be settled.

We stayed for five nights, and James the owner arranged a bush walk with family-raised cheetahs at a friend’s nearby camp one morning for my friend and me, and another day we had a private guide drive us all over Kruger. I’m glad I got to see Kruger, but preferred the morning and afternoon game drives in the open truck at Sausage Tree. Petting a full-grown, purring cheetah was a once-in-a-lifetime memory, even though he soon ditched our walk to return to his girlfriend.

I said there was only the nighttime van ride that scared me in Africa, but there was one more incident that happened so quickly I didn’t have time to panic. The safari tents are closed with big zippers and you are told to be very careful to zip completely or monkeys can get inside and wreck everything. One afternoon I was startled awake by some raucous commotion outside - monkeys apparently having a throw down, but I couldn’t see them. Next moment I hear heavy thumping on my front porch, and there stands a huge alpha baboon looking in, through my completely unzipped tent flap! (Roomie went to lunch…) My first reaction was to stomp at him and make a lot of noise to scare him off. James later told me a better plan would have been to quickly get the solid door to the bathroom between us, and grab the emergency air horn on my way in. These big alphas aren’t intimidated easily and they have gruesome incisors! (It ended well; he left!)

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Inyati Game Lodge

https://inyati.safari.com

Sausage Tree arranged a driver to take us door-to-door to our next camp, Inyati Game Lodge in the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve. This camp is a bit larger and more luxurious, with eleven chalets with tall poster beds draped in elegant white netting and bathrooms with both indoor and outdoor showers (that didn’t look out on the manicured grounds where people often walked by!) The Sand River flows through the property. Dinners were served buffet style and seating was outdoors by candlelight at multiple tables. We never really interacted with other guests during meals, and a staff person was always present to walk us back to our room at night because animals are free to roam the grounds. The main draw to come here was to see leopards, elusive creatures who are a little more prevalent in the Sabi Sands area.

There are game drives morning and late afternoon, and the skill of your driver and tracker for each drive, and probably a bit of luck, defines the excitement and enjoyment of each drive. In Sausage Tree there was only one safari truck going out, so we never saw other humans. In Inyati there were multiple trucks, but they kept us as far apart as possible. In both camps, our drivers and trackers were very, very good. They probably also appreciated having guests who were enthusiastic and obviously enjoying their drives. And we did see leopards on each of the three days we were there.

I loved the personal interactions of Sausage Tree the most. Their chef planned each meal with great care and creativity, and it was fun to eat dinners with different staff members each night. Inyati was much less personal, but had more leopards! Five nights in Sausage Tree and three nights in Inyati was a perfect combination for our trip. We saw the Big Five in both places. I hope more trips to South Africa are in the future, and I will always try to return to Sausage Tree.

Inyati made sure we got in the morning game drive on our check-out day, then arranged a driver for the one hour trip to Skukuza Airport (SZK) where we took another Airlink flight to Johannesburg Tambo, then on to Cape Town (CPT). Before my 2016 trip a South African friend told me to stay in a guest house in CT rather than one of the big hotels downtown around the harbor. Blackheath Lodge was our choice then, and I was so pleased to be returning.

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Blackheath Lodge, Cape Town

https://www.oystercollection.co.za/blackheath-lodge

Blackheath is a boutique hotel on a leafy residential street a quick Uber from downtown Cape Town. Their breakfasts are amazing, but the friendliness and charm of their staff are the real stars. As on the first trip, we relied on them to pick us up at the airport and book us a private guide.

Our first day, when the weather forecast was perfect, we drove down the east coast with stops on the beach and in Simon’s Town to see penguins, then to the southernmost point of Africa, the Cape of Good Hope, where the Indian and Atlantic oceans crash together. Driving back up the west coast to Cape Town, we were at scenic Hout Bay at sunset. Second day was for Cape Town city sights - colorful Bo-Kaap, the apartheid historic sites, and the famous pink Mount Nelson hotel where our guide previously was head doorman.

Third day we shopped downtown, bought a bigger duffel to haul home our treasures, then had a most elegant Afternoon Tea at the Mount Nelson, on par with Fortnum & Mason, but for about a third the price. We originally planned four nights in Cape Town, but Delta cancelled our flight home til the next day, so we got a bonus night and four full days.

Fourth day we went to lovely Kirstenbosh National Botanic Garden where I read a sign in a flower bed with pictures of the six venomous snakes that live on the grounds, including Cape Cobras, Puff Adders, Berg Adders, and Boomslangs, “a shy tree-dwelling snake with haemotoxic venom.” Now not sure whether to look down at the ground or up in the trees. A groundskeeper did reassure me that in winter I probably wouldn’t see any of them, but if I did, to just back away quietly.

Since we survived that unscathed, we signed up for a “thrilling” catamaran trip out of the harbor. (My traveling buddy lives on a lake and is an experienced and fast boat driver, and even she was wondering about the plan if the boat captain flipped us, which seemed possible.) The water was icy, we had no life jackets, and saw no whales or any other sea life. Don’t recommend that experience.

We enjoyed our relaxed days in Cape Town, relied on the hotel to send us to good untouristy restaurants, Uber-ed everywhere, and always felt safe…except on the boat. I did re-visit the travel clinic in Atlanta months before our trip, and got every shot they recommended. Even though it was winter, and, we never saw a mosquito, we took all the malaria pills.

Planning an African trip can seem daunting, and if it’s likely to deplete your joy, you probably should turn the planning over to someone else. But it’s very doable, in South Africa for sure. I’m interested in Tanzania, but have done no research, and don’t know if that’s as easy. Just for a comparison, we travelled two weeks at what seemed a fairly luxurious level, including eight days on safaris, and flights on Delta, and think it cost us each less than 10K. And we did exactly what we wanted every day and had a great adventure. If there are any questions I might answer, feel free to PM me.

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Thank you for sharing your experience, Ruth.

It’s easier than you might think.

I'm afraid your description made it not seem that way to me. But I salute you for putting in the effort to make it work for you.

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5965 posts

Thanks so much for sharing! A South African safari is somewhere in my future and this makes it seem very doable.