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Detailed Andalucia trip report-October 2019

First have to say, as I’ve posted before, how much help this forum has been for me to plan our own trips. We had an amazing time in Andalucia and in great part due to RS’s guidebook, this forum, and other research/Youtube. And if I might be able to help someone else with my report, here goes and sorry for the length!

This trip was 13 nights on the ground, 8 Oct – 21 Oct. Overall had really good weather, almost no rain other than some sprinkles and a downpour briefly one night in Sevilla, and hotter/colder in places than I’d anticipated.

Started in Nerja for 3 nights.
I know not a big choice for many here, but we thought it would be good to recover from jet lag and we love water. Spent a couple hours on Burriana Beach, and a couple at the Hotel Balcon de Europa Beach as it was handy. I was nervous about this part of the trip, because after I booked our flights and accomodations, they announced the Feria would open the 2nd night we were there. We are not ‘crowd’ people. Jean here on the forum told me not to worry, they also visited during the Feria and it was far enough away to not be an issue and she was right. We showed up after dinner as it opened, everything lit up and fireworks. Couldn’t hear anything when you walked away.

While in Nerja we visited Frigiliana and the Nerja Caves. The Nerja Caves were impressive. Also a tip – I saw they closed at 4:30 PM and knew you had to take a guided tour. Got there at 3:20 and caught the last tour of the day (had issues with the bus). Almost missed it! Frigiliana was absolutely charming, we loved it. Here’s also where I started learning that even I research restaurants, it might not matter – the 2 I had written down were both closed – so went back to one we saw near the church where a lot of people were eating. This happened several times during this trip so the planner in me had to let it go.

Accomodation:
Hotel Balcon de Europa. Splurged on this one as we wanted a room overlooking the water. Staff were very helpful.

Restaurants:
Ayo’s at Burriana Beach a highlight. Never had paella before, and didn’t order it again the whole trip as we enjoyed it so much.
El Pulguilla, had my first of many berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant).
La Piqueta for tapas, place I planned was closed, large and very good tapas free with drinks

Granada for 3 nights.
Took the bus from Nerja to Granada. Stayed at an apartment in the Albaicin – loved the area. Very peaceful, and the apartment had the most amazing huge terrace overlooking the Alhambra with clear views. At least one other poster has stayed there, so I knew the pictures were accurate! Spent lovely time on that terrace enjoying the view, without the crowds at Mirador San Nicolas. And just walking around, having meals in the Albaicin as well.

First night took the Moorish Albaicin Tour with Granada Tapas Tours (Gayle’s company recommended in RS’s guidebook). Irene was our guide and it was really nice to learn more about the area we were staying in and enjoy some food and wine at the end.

Another highlight was our Alhambra tour with Margarita Ortega Ortiz de Landazuri of Alhambra Tours (in RS’s guide and recommended by others here). Even when I factored in buying the tickets (and you have to buy them yourself but she reminds you when they are becoming available), it didn’t cost much more than a group tour and it was just the 2 of us. Well worth it, she is a gem. Whenever she saw a line to get in to a particular section, she knew how to go around it and come back to that place when the groups had moved on. So she saved us a lot of time from just standing in multiple lines. She is so knowledgeable and you could tell she enjoyed sharing the history of the area, architecture, etc.

Really wanted to visit San Juan Basilica – it was closed and couldn’t get back. Visited the Cathedral and Royal Chapel.

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Granada continued:

Accomodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/4238597, Beatriz is lovely and apartment wonderful in addition to the view. She also has this listed on VRBO.

Restaurants:
Via Colon for churros and breakfast
Teteria Diwan for lunch and I really wanted tea from a beautiful tea pot and glass cups. There are multiple teterias in this area and we really enjoyed the atmosphere.
La Porrona in Plaza Larga, good eggplant and meat/cheese platter
Estrellas de San Nicolas for a delayed 30th anniversary dinner. Saw it recommended by several here and although this was by far the most expensive meal in Spain, considering all the amazing courses and wine, fantastic service and view, it was still a good value. You can pick a set 3 course menu that I chose (3 choices for each course) that make it very reasonable, or separate courses. Goat cheese souffle, sea bass, lovely pesto risotto.

Ronda for 3 nights
Rented a car in Granada to drive to Ronda. I know this isn’t considered a top location, but we loved it. No specific site, just enjoyed the smaller size and feel. We are finding we are not into the big cities as much, although they tend to have some of the sites you come to visit. Part of why we enjoyed it so much is the apartment and views we got – also found others on the forum who have stayed at this apartment or another by this host. It is right next to the Don Miguel hotel and restaurant overlooking the Puente Nuevo.

We walked down both sides of the bridge, one to see the Arab baths (enjoyed the video), the other to see the ‘classic’ postcard with the waterfall. That was a tougher walk back up, but worth it. Paco Seco’s classical and flamenco guitar concert at the Guitar House had been recommended before it was added to RS’s guidebook and that was fabulous. Also went for a few hours to Zahara, mainly to walk around and go up to the remains of the castle for the views. A beautiful short drive.

Accomodation:
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2423234, Jose was quick to answer questions, he’s updated the bedding and terrace furniture from what you see posted. Furniture is ‘rustic’, but we were there for the location and views and it delivered.

Restaurants:
Gastrobar Déjà Vu, best croquettes I had (and I had a lot)
TragaTapas, RS guidebook and forum recommended, had a beautifully presented fried sea bass with an amazing Thai sauce
Las Maravillas, Cod pil pil, good dessert and hubby said red wine was best he’d had at that point
Bar Almocabar, hubby had oxtail stew and wonderful chocolate lava cake

Sevilla for 4 nights, including day trip to Cordoba
Drove and dropped off car. First night did a Devour-Tapas like a Local in Triana tour, amazing. Area and guide interesting and the food was incredible, will definitely book with this company at any other location they are at.

Did a day trip to Cordoba. While I know it would have been even better had we stayed, glad we did at least get a glimpse and of course see the Mezquita. Took a private tour with RS’s recommended guide, Ángel Lucena Aguilar-Tablada, well worth the money. Lunch at Casa Mazal was phenomenal-hummus 3 ways, falafel 3 ways and fried eggplant.

Next day we went with Sevilla Walking Tours (RS’s recommended), for their city walking tour, and Alcazar, including Game of Thrones’ extension. Marina was our guide for both tours and was very good. She’s fan of the show and has also read the books (as I have), so had some good conversations.

Enjoyed a flamenco show at La Casa del Flamenco, specifically the guitar and dancers, the singing got to be a bit much, but probably because we don’t understand it.

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Sevilla continued

Spent an enjoyable morning at Casa Las Duenas, a lovely walk with no crowds (although even around the Cathedral it wasn’t bad), pretty gardens. I’d bought online tickets for the Cathedral and had seen the lines to buy tickets and was proud of myself. But as I wrote in a post on the Spain page, we couldn’t figure out how to get an audioguide but I had my guidebook pages with Rick’s self walk and we realized for us, that was probably better anyway.

Accomodation:
Hotel Amadeus, really loved the character of the hotel and our junior suite. I do want to let people know that there is construction going on right next door (the building walls touch like townhomes) and our room was up against that, so the first afternoon we were there and took a couple hours to rest, it was very loud. This looks like it will be going on for awhile. We would absolutely stay there again and this is a temporary situation so in the meantime, maybe try to get a room away from the construction or if you’ll be out all day (or there on the week-end), it shouldn’t bother you. But staff and location were great and enjoyed spending some time up on the rooftop terrace.

Restaurants:
Bodega Morales for lunch tapas a couple days, pretty good and enjoyed the atmosphere, although went by at times when it was more packed than we could deal with.
Freiduria La Isla for lunch, several of the fried options, including very good marinated fish.
De Nata, between hotel and Cathedral, Portuguese custard tarts, stopped and got one whenever they had them, made in small batches so often out-1.5 Euros each, a nice little treat.
Las Golondrinas 1 in Triana, I’d already planned to go here - it was the best stop on our tapas tour, and we just wanted more of the grilled pork loin and grilled mushrooms with garlic/parsley aioli!

Additional observations

We had audio guides at several cathedrals/churches and we realized that for us, they were a bit unhelpful. This is probably because they assumed listeners would know the different parts of the church, and when they’d talk about a transept, nave, etc., we didn’t know what they were talking about or where we should be! In the future might just stick with RS’s self walks because there’s a map so we can figure out where we are!

One of the many things I’ve realized over several years of being on the forum, is that changing locations less means you will probably enjoy your trip more, and that seems true for us. Even though none of our locations were more than about 2 hours away, it still took at least ½ day to change. We can still see a lot without moving around as long as we research and find places that interest us. And each location was very different.

I’d read that food prices would be a lot less, especially compared to Italy, and that was absolutely correct. I.e. roof top restaurant in Nerja with bottle of Cava, large portion of swordfish and large portion of grilled prawns was 43 Euros. I also knew going into this that I would probably struggle a bit with the food as I’m kind’ve picky, and that was also true. However, whenever I struggled with a menu, I could usually either find fried eggplant with honey, croquettes, or tortilla. Also love shrimp and enjoyed the seabass and cod and there was always gelato if I was still hungry!

So thanks again for everyone who participates in this forum, it helps more than you might know!

Posted by
4180 posts

Sounds like you had a really fantastic time, appreciate all the detailed restaurant descriptions! They will come in handy next time I'm in the area ;-)

Posted by
6531 posts

Wow! What a great report.. Thanks, debbied.

And I loved this observation:

One of the many things I’ve realized over several years of being on the forum, is that changing locations less means you will probably enjoy your trip more,

This needs to be repeated, often.

Posted by
1586 posts

Sounds like the blueprint to a great Andalusian vacation. Debbie you have made a lot of future Costa Del Sol travelers very happy with that info. We are all elated to have contributed to your wonderful Southern Spain experience.

Posted by
3562 posts

Thank you Debbie for this great trip report! I am in the process of writing one on my recent trip to Greece, so I know how much time and effort it takes. Well done!

Posted by
1303 posts

Thank you for your interesting and helpful report. I'm glad you enjoyed your holiday.

Of course, there is an awful lot more brilliant stuff to visit in Andalucia, so hopefully you'll be back soon!

Posted by
2252 posts

debbied, thank you for this wonderful trip report! This is an area unfamiliar to me so I am especially appreciative of all the detail and your enthusiasm coming through loud and clear for Andalucia!

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220 posts

Jane, what I've figured works for us is to have potential day trips planned in case a place doesn't speak to us or we want to see something else, rather than moving around. (In addition to planned day trips, like we had for Cordoba and Zahara.)

So much to see and learn, I started off planning this trip with virtually zero knowledge of Andalucia, and as is stated, only scratched the surface. Glad if my report my help someone!

Wow! What a wonderful and informing report! My family is taking a trip very similar to yours in 3 weeks (so excited!). It will be our first time to Spain.

We have lots of the same tour guides booked that you did. I am curious if you would recommend a guide for the Alcazar or Cathedral in Seville? I was going to use Seville Walking tour for a tour of the city. It will be me and my husband and our 3 kids (16,14, and 10).

I have Margarita for the Alhambra and Angel for Cordoba :-).

Thanks so much!
Heather

Posted by
220 posts

Heather, we used sevillawalkingtours.com for our city tour, and then did the Alcazar tour with them as well (including Game of Thrones extension, but that's an addition you don't have to do that). If you book with them you get a discount for having taken the walking tour. We did the Cathedral on our own. It looks like that's who you're doing the walking tour with?

The line for Alcazar tickets was very long when we were there, but our tickets were purchased by the company so we didn't have to buy them on our own and stand in line. Have fun, you will love it!!

Debbie,
Thank you so much for your reply and the feedback! We will do the Alcazar tour and the city walking tour with them as well!

Heather