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Czech Republic & Hungary Tour Trip Report May 2026

(I apologize for a bit of a scattered trip report. I usually format these better with my laptop, but I’m still in Europe.)

I was able to fly standby on a full flight for an earlier flight out of Spokane to Seattle. Our forecast was gusty winds picking up during the day, so I was happy to get on the way two hours earlier since the smaller planes feel it more. It ends up that a few ladies and their manager had a conference in Seattle, and their manager decided to drive which opened up this one seat for me. This was one of my worst turbulence flights, and the lady next to me was scared. She thanked me when we landed, recognizing I had been calmly talking her through the worst of it. The rest of the flights were uneventful. I did have a wonderful seat mate on the Amsterdam-to-Prague flight who grew up in Czech Republic and has lived near Minneapolis for the past five years. She comes back each year to visit, and her eyes lit up when I mentioned I was staying in Cesky Krumlov for a couple of days before the tour began.

While I was waiting at the Amsterdam airport, I went ahead and just reserved a private ride from the Prague airport. The notes in Rick’s guidebook warned of taxi gouging, and I wanted something stress-free after 24 hours of travel. It was my first experience of my name written on a hand-held board at an airport as I walked by baggage claim. The ride gave me a nice view of my neighborhood area since the traffic was heavy.

My initial hotel 1-night stop in Prague was The Charles Hotel, chosen from the reviews & location map on Booking. It was 1 block from the start of the Charles Bridge on the left bank. Wow, perfect location! I walked in the opposite direction first to the gorgeous St. Nicolas Church, explored a few blocks in each direction, & picked up some deep red cherry tomatoes at one of the market stands on the square as I returned. I walked towards the Charles Bridge, thoroughly enjoyed photographing and savoring my first looks of the city. Wow, amazingly beautiful!

The young man at the hotel reception told me he had good & bad news when I checked in. My room had been upgraded - good! But it was on the 4th floor now, and the elevator only goes up to the 3rd floor. He said he would carry my suitcase for me, but I smiled as I pivoted and showed him I just had the Cotopaxi so it was all good. The attic room was huge with my own internal hall. Lots of exposed wood trusses, a large nicely-painted scene of the beautiful street buildings in this neighborhood on one wall, three upholstered chairs and two sets of windows with views of the illuminated castle at night, …and a coffee maker in the room - perfect! It had that homey feel of history where I could picture old treasures stored up here or someone like the March girls of “Little Women” spinning their next story aloud for a play.

Since I can pick my time zone, I like to get up early. I had a shower, an excellent breakfast and was out on the bridge while there were only a few others walking or jogging. I’m not a fan of large crowds, and this was perfect to enjoy the city without them - great first impression! Walking into the central spot with the astronomical clock and gorgeous architecture, it was easy to take photos without people in them. The buildings are stunning! Many cities use Trompe l'oeil for window facades, but all of these were the real thing! I walked up the steep hill to the govenor buildings before returning to my hotel.

My CKShuttle ride to Cesky Krumlov arrived at 12:30pm. The trip took three hours, including a 5-minute stop at a combo gas station/Burger King halfway there. This shuttle was so convenient picking up & dropping off at my hotels.

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Cesky Krumlov is so gorgeous with the red-tiled roof lines, the winding river, and the castle overhead! I booked The Grand Hotel on the main square for two nights. All of the other shuttle rider couples were staying in AirBnB’s at various distances away from the center. As soon as my driver left the rest of the travelers off at their places, he began to share quite a bit. The town has shifted so much. He lived here at one time, but the rent is too high now since most owners keep filling their apartments or homes with AirBnB demand now. He also shared some negative examples of past communism, such as the tight rein on travel. There were many hoops to jump through & any destination to the west added more stringent demands, plus only a father & daughter could travel, for instance, to hold the rest of the family as collateral to ensure they returned. He talked some of their current local politics.

Something humorous- my initial day in Prague I walked for a few hours and stopped for one of the chimney cakes filled with soft serve ice cream and toppings seen in shops all over the center of the city. (They look much better than they taste.) As my driver went around a bend climbing the last lanes to my hotel here, he started to growl about some horrible local food that’s not local at all! He said to absolutely not get a trdelnik because they are NOT Czech even though the shops advertise as such & are prolific. Well, he was referring to the Chimney cake treat - LOL! I laughed & told him it was too late; I actually had one yesterday. At least he was happy I thought it wasn’t good.

Rain was the forecast later in the afternoon, so I scurried to the castle after checking into the hotel for the stellar views & to see it up close. The benefit of rain coming was the colors in my photos were a rich hue - lovely!

The second day was another rainy day. I had a morning walking tour scheduled with Wiseman Free Tours and a castle tour at 2:30pm. Since it was pouring rain in the morning, I WhatsApped the walking tour to cancel. Instead, I ducked into a few shops near my hotel on Namesti Svornosti Square to get outside a little. One I especially enjoyed had the marionette museum housed on the upper two floors. I have been fascinated with historical puppets since seeing them in the castle in Ljubljana & even more after attending a play in Palermo two years ago. Wow, this was so easy to spend an hour looking at the collection on the upper floor! I like to imagine them being used years ago and how they would have been the major mode of entertainment for a local community. The localized themes of some sets were particularly interesting. If you are in C.K., be sure to go to the museum, especially the attic! There’s an overwhelming collection of everything up there! I left the attic when too many sinister puppet eyes were watching me - LOL!

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Fortunately, the rain dropped down to a light, cold mist when it was time to head to the castle for the interior rooms tour. My favorites were the ancient frescoes covering walls, the female warrior (I saw her in the room containing the over-the-top gold carriage), and the finale huge room for performing plays & marionettes. I recognized some of the groups of marionettes painted on the walls as sets in the museum earlier in the day.

A couple & their college age kids had been waiting with me for our tour to begin & trying to decide between two restaurants. When they mentioned Beer & Burgers unique burger options, I knew I’d be stopping there on my way back to the hotel! As I was seated, the rain came pouring, so I ate slowly & managed to time my exit when it stopped again. The rain was back two hours later, so I took advantage of the huge kidney-shaped bathtub in my room & decided to just have a mellow evening.

Even though I knew Cesky Krumlov was going to be a rainy 2-day experience, I still wanted to come. I’m glad I had the chance to stay in a smaller city in Czech Republic besides the time in Prague. The rain contributed to the gorgeous lush green of the surrounding hills for the travelers coming after me to enjoy. : )

Sunday morning, the CK Shuttle took me back to Prague to meet up with the RS tour at 2pm.

Our RS Prague/Budapest tour met in the Bookquet Hotel at 2pm. Our guide, Andrea, went through the usual info in short order to get us into the Prague Cathedral shortly after 3pm. She explained that the crowds are massive on weekday mornings, so instead, we had plenty of room to enjoy the cathedral at the local guide’s pace. I loved that the first tour day began at 2pm, so it felt like a full day vs. just an evening together.

I won’t go through the daily details of the tour. Here were the highlights of Prague: St. Vitus Cathedral - gorgeous stained glass, Prague Castle, a private opera performance, Charles Bridge, the astronomical clock, the beautiful art nouveau interior rooms of the Municipal House, beer-tasting event, Jewish neighborhood synagogue, museum & graveyard. I enjoyed each one. My most memorable was the private opera performance because I woke up each morning in Prague with one of the selections of music playing in my head - nice & pleasant!

I love to explore without a busy itinerary during the free time and then check my map app eventually to see which general direction to walk back to the hotel. I loved the architecture & skyline of Prague! I only had time for a couple of 5-minute sketches because I was busy enjoying the city.

For the last day in Prague, I ate a hearty lunch down by the river in the shade at Jafra Restaurant after walking by the John Lennon wall. Their signature dish was wild boar inside a potato filling served with gravy & sauerkraut underneath and a small salad to the side of the plate. Surprisingly, I am 75% German heritage and have never tried sauerkraut. To be honest, this is the meal that would be my husband’s favorite choice, so I wanted to order it. The sauerkraut was excellent. I ate at least half of it. They had a nice selection of relaxing songs playing for a very nice overall experience- outdoor tables on a wood deck at the water’s edge with the Old Town views, some shade trees, good meal, etc. Then came a Leon Russell song. “I've been so many places in my life and time………And when my life is over, remember when we were together. We were alone, and I was singing my song for you.” My first thought was “Why did that song have to be played?” (That was from a favorite album of ours.) But then, what could be a nicer, serene spot in Prague to step back to the 80’s thinking of my husband with sweet nostalgia? So I embraced it. When I finished lunch, a huge nutria came up the shore - ugh! He looked like a beaver but with a rat tail.

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After the satisfying lunch, I walked over to the gardens. I saw the entry photo signs when my driver was bringing me into Prague on the initial arrival day. They began with more stairs than worth - LOL! But after sitting at a bench & finishing a sketch, I explored the many levels and took some keeper photos! A happy surprise were the fragrant flowers - roses, wisteria, iris & lily-of-the-valley plus the gardens wrap around the Prague Conservatory, so music wafting from the open windows added to the experience.

Budapest highlights: St. Stephen Basilica, the Holocaust shoe memorial at the river’s edge, the exterior of the Parliment, Heros Square, the exterior of the museums in the park, evening boat cruise on the Danube, Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion, a tour of the Opera House, Central Market Hall, and a cooking class lunch.

The restaurants and meals for this tour were excellent - the nicest of RS tours I’ve taken. Our finale dinner was at Vigvarju.

Each morning, except the bus day, began at 9am. Andrea scheduled a 30-minute coffee break each mid-morning in a special coffee house which was a paid coffee & light sweet. That enabled people to use the toilet, not have to find a place for a snack, pay & wait for meeting up again.

The last day of our tour also hit the 2-year milestone of my husband’s death. I quietly let Andrea know that if I stepped out for a little timeout from the group that day, not to worry.

We went to the huge market in Budapest! We all scattered to shop for 40 minutes. I was very happy to find a traditional wood Santa. I saw them in Prague & a few shops in this market, but one in particular that a shop owner showed me was perfect! I wanted a green one - not something that looked like it’s from America, and this one had an elk & some birds painted on the robe. (Now I don’t need to hunt one down in Germany in December!)

Hungarian Cooking class: my subgroup made the apple strudel..which I will make at home. : ). Every dish was prepped to be the smallest amount of work & still consider that our group made it. We were eating lunch within an hour of arriving there. The host nicely gave us a cookbook to take with us, or a mini-cookbook. Packing light, I really appreciated the smaller available option! After I ate, I needed a break from the conversation that I just couldn’t track. My mind was on the small yellow church at the corner that I saw when we exited the tram. When I received the news two years ago on that date, I fled back into the small yellow church in Sulmona, Italy. No coincidence that this was here, and it was exactly the solace for my heart, taking 10 minutes from the group to walk Inside the church and feel at peace.

This tour is definitely a winner, and Andrea is one of my favorite tour guides! She has all of the qualities you wish for an excellent guide, plus I continually notice the small, courteous things she does.

This has been a wonderful chance to see Budapest - first in 1975 as a communist country & now with lots of changes.

Mr. E & I were able to meet up & have a nice conversation over delicious Ukrainian food! I appreciated his recommendations ahead of time for concerts, restaurants & activities while in Budapest! He’s a great contribution to our forum.

To summarize - I highly recommend this RS tour! There aren’t any changes I would make to it while keeping it a group format - well done!

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Our group was friendly & had a great time together! I purposely sat down with different people each morning for breakfast or group meals, and others seem to do likewise. (Hint: I printed a US graphic and placed the names of the group in the states where they live. It was helpful to give an additional visual to learn names. Our group was very respectful to each other. No one was ever late for a meet up time, and Andrea said we set the record for heading to the local transportation to catch our tour bus to drive from Prague to Budapest.

One reason I picked this tour (besides the locations) - 7 of the 8 days, we weren’t on a tour bus. This maximized our city time. The long bus day had two stops that were just practical, non-scenic stops: a 30-minute coffee stop break at McDonald’s & an hour stop similar to an AutoGrill in Italy where there’s hot buffet food to choose. We did pause in Slovakia long enough for Andrea to hand out a Slovakian candy bar on the bus & declare we were officially in Slovakia! : )

If I had done this trip solo, I would have stayed much longer at St. Vitus to savor the stained glass and other highlights. I really felt rushed through that church having our local guide mentioning something and moving on quickly. On the other hand, I walked by places we later saw in both cities, and the explanations from the guides added much more depth to my understanding.

At the Budapest airport near my gate for Bari at the end of A, there was a grand piano. I sat down & played “The Prayer” - a piece of music that is very special! As I was finishing with the quiet notes that fade into the highest octave, I was startled by the applause. In my mind I was playing it at home with my husband listening in the other room. People asked me to keep playing more, but I didn’t want to get emotional at the airport and politely declined. Overall, being back to Europe was a positive decision for this date.

(The Italy portion of my trip, traveling solo, will be a separate trip report.)

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Packing:
Cotopaxi 35 L backpack
ORI black Kennington crossbody purse

Clothes:
I wrestled with choices this time since I knew Cesky Krumlov was going to be both cold & rainy. But, I still needed to keep my Cotopaxi light since I’d be walking it up some hilly locations in Puglia & Umbria.

Packed, including worn on the plane:
2 pairs of black pants

Three colorful 3/4 sleeve tops - one blue & black flowered, one red/pink/black geometric, one sea colors muted vertical stripes.

Two dresses- Gray/charcoal patterned quick-dry sleeveless dress (my favorite versatile type) & a black dress with pretty white appliqué-topped short sleeves that’s nice for concerts & the finale dinner, besides daytime.

I haven’t worn a cardigan for years, but Cesky Krumlov’s weather was going to be cold, so I added a gray chevron woven pattern one to layer with my raincoat & also wore it a day in Prague.

Packing discovery! Art supplies purchased during a trip don’t weigh anything! ; ) The day before I left for my trip, my left knee was a little sore, so I was removing things that weren’t vital. I removed my watercolor pencils & brushes and just brought the bare bones for sketching: a thin black pen, 2 pencils, a 1/3 eraser & pencil sharpener and my small sketchbook. But during the trip when my leg was fine, I added back six 2-sided color pencils (for 12 colors) in Cesky Krumlov & a small box of soft pastels at Prague. The pastels don’t even count because I was just using up my leftover Czech cash! Yes, that’s my last-day shopping economics! ; )

I really wanted a Santa from the Christmas Markets last December in Austria, Germany or France. But, I couldn’t find any that didn’t look like they were picked up in the US. I finally found my European Santa in Budapest during this trip! It’s wood-carved, traditional face & robe, painted green and has some beautiful details, including a stag & birds small scene on the front robe & side. It was “on sale” because of my last-day shopping economics for my Hungarian cash, too! LOL!

What’s on the horizon after Italy? My next trip is a 1-week Pastel Painting workshop class outside Dublin, Ireland, followed by a week in Cork & Kinsale - first time in Ireland!. I will be woefully “UN-packing light” for that one since I need to bring my tripod, pochade wood box/easel combo and the pastels & supplies.

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Lovely trip report as usual! You manage to let me feel that I was there. I love the details, especially of the interactions with others (discussing what it was like under communism with the driver). These are always some of my favorite moments when I travel.

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So enjoyed this report and to read that you found the yellow church when you needed the most. And the grand finale with the piano!
Hope your continued travels are going well. Thanks for taking the time to pop in here to share.

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Thank you for sharing this good information and your beautiful memories with us.

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Jean, I recently returned from a month in Europe. Every time I saw a piano in a train station, I thought of you. (I also play piano, but nothing without music in front of me, unfortunately.)

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Thank you for another great trip report, Jean. I’m so glad you enjoyed the tour.