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Czech Countryside, Cesky Krumlov & Vienna

After 4 days in Prague, we caught a taxi to the Hertz location where we picked up a Peugeot. We drove our little car to Konopiste castle. We walked around the courtyard and the grounds; but opted to skip the indoor tour. From Konopiste, we drove to Tabor and ate lunch at an outdoor restaurant on that town's nice square.

From Tabor, we drove to Hluboka na Vltavou castle. It is a beautiful place and a huge structure. We took lots of pictures including one of the door knob to the castle; which depicts a crow eating the eye out of a Turk. Once again, we chose not to tour the inside of the caslte and headed to Cesky Krumlov.

We arrived at our hotel about 5:30pm. The Penzion Krumlov is very stark and squeaky clean. The temperature in our room was over 90 degrees so I asked the desk guy how to get the AC turned on. I was told that there was no AC! Fortunately, the weather was cooling so we opened the window and things cooled off nicely. Had we visited this hotel one day earlier, it would have been a disaster.

Cesky Krumlov is an awesome town. It is pretty much intact from the Renaissance. The town, which is famous for its crowds; was empty on a rainy Wednesday night in September. We ate supper at a tourist restaurant on the square: beef and dumplings again! After drinks at a restaurant overlooking the river; we caught a cab up the hill to the hotel.

On Thursday, we wandered around the old parts of Cesky Krumlov before our scheduled tour. We had hoped to tour the brewery; but it was closed because of construction. At 1:30pm; we met Karolina with Krumlov Tours. Karolina is an excellent guide. She knows lots of history and did a great job of explaining the economics of the restoration of the town after the end of communism. Karolina has us set for the English Tour of the castle and delivered us to that tour right on time.

The castle tour is very informative. The guide did a good job of explaining the various decorative eras: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, etc. We finished our visit to Cesky Krumlov with drinks by the river and ate supper at Papa's. Karolina recommended this restaurant and it was a fine choice. We split an appetizer and the special; which was chicken on a stick. There was enough food for six people and it was all very good.

We had a fun day driving through Southern Bohemia and Moravia on Friday. The GPS mostly sent us on back roads; which was a lot of fun. We saw a lot of small villages and farms and arrived at Telc around lunch. Telc has a beautiful town square and a small castle. The weather was perfect so we ate outside on the square.

After lunch, we headed to Vienna. Other than a serious traffic jam in Jnojmo; the trip into the city was uneventful. After a little stress finding the Hertz location; we returned the car and walked to the Marriott. The Vienna Marriott is a really nice hotel. After six nights in local hotels; it was a little comforting to stay in more familiar surroundings. We walked to St. Stephen's Square and watched the sun set on that beautiful cathedral.

We ate supper at Reinthaler's near the cathedral. It was our second visit to this restaurant and the food was as good as before. For Vienna, it is also inexpensive.

Our last day in Europe was a great one. We toured the cathedral and headed to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. On the way, we stumbled into the Erntedank Festival; which is the Austrian's thanksgiving/harvest festival. Those folks were having some fun so we postponed our museum visit and enjoyed the festival. Seeing the Austrians have so much fun with their wine, beer, food, dancing and music was a highlight of our trip.

We did tour the Kunsthistorisches and the Hapsburg Treasury; both of which were awesome. That museum has just about any kind of art that you like and a lot of it.

The next morning we caught a taxi to the airport and flew home.

Fun Trip!

Posted by
2469 posts

Scott,
Thanks for a great trip report! I have to write you because I visited Cesky Krumlov, Prague and Vienna in late June this year and felt affection for those delightful places! In Cesky we were given a tour of the baroque theatre with their ancient sound effects. And, Vienna and the Kunst and Hapsburg Treasury and cafes and the Opera! St. Stephens Cathedral is magnificent. I went up the elevator in the Karlskirche - under renovation, and you can go up to the very top! The elevator only goes so far and there are stairs to climb to get to the very tippy top. Very hot day, at least 95 degrees, and the stairs looked like they would not pass OSHA standards! I looked around at the painted figures and scenes and took the elevator back down. However, a couple of the guys on my tour climbed the stairs and said it was a must do.
The tour I was on was RS Berlin Prague Vienna in 12 Days, a very well organized and interesting itinerary with a great guide! Also found Berlin unexpectedly interesting and filled with amazing art, antiquities and music and cultural events.

Judy B

Posted by
3595 posts

Thanks for your report, Scott. We will be visiting Vienna (2nd time) and CK next spring. My guidebook has nothing on CK, so I was glad to get some firsthand information. Also, it's helpful to have some guidance when making one's way through the plethora of restaurants in Vienna.