Getting off the train is bizarre, lonely little train station and you walk thru thru the door into the street and wow, it is a bustling little area. I stayed at Apartment Kaleta, I believe this is s RS recommendation. I thought it was great, a lot of character and nicely decorated but I did have the attic apartment and those stairs were steep. As for Split, I am not sure it met my expectations. I did enjoy wandering around and loved the old buildings and the way everything was cobbled together. Unless you are going to do a day trip or something one day is enough here. I had 2+ and it was too much. I could not get a bus to Trogir due to times I wanted sold out and probably should have tried harder to get a trip out to Hvar or Korcula. Took a catamaran to Dubrovnik and all I can say is waaay to many people. I stayed at Festa apartment. It was small but clean and had a nice little shared terrace. I wandered around a bit my first day but again the crowds were overwhelming. Enjoyed the evening much better when the crowds thinned out. Walking the walls is the best thing to do in Dubrovnik and I did that first thing in the morning before it got hot and crowded. Then went over to Loverjenac fortress. That was a lovely hike up and the views of Dubrovnik were stunning. After Dubrovnik I took the bus back to Split and took a taxi to Podstrana for a couple of days. I very much got ripped off by the taxi driver who charged me 47 euro for a 20 minute ride, which was about 10 euro more than he quoted me. I should have refused to pay, but I was tired. Stayed at Lea luxury apartments right on the beach. I did nothing except walk on the beach and read. Sadly it rained most of the time I was there but the view from my covered patio was great and it was not cold. I highly recommend this apartment. Overall I am glad I went, but I wish I would have planned more day trips. That was my original plan but ferry schedules to Italy kind of had me scrambling and changing plans. I am off to Italy via SNAV overnight ferry to Ancona.
Posted by
Portland, Oregon
5687 posts
I stayed at Apartments Kaleta in Split almost exactly a year ago. I luckily did not have the attic apartment - mine was one on the "first" floor once you climb up the stairs to the building entrance. I liked the place too - amazing price for the location. It was small but very practical, and I even added fourth night there. I had been to Split (and Dubrovnik) years earlier, so on this more recent trip I day tripped by ferry or catamaran to Hvar, Brac, and Vis and spent time in Split only in the evenings. The other islands/towns were nice, but I LOVED Vis so much I came back the following day and spent two nights. It was more laid back than the other islands and very comfortable.
I departed Split by train, so the opposite experience you had (after taking an early ferry from Vis back to Split). I took the long train ride to Zagreb. It was a terrible experience. I normally love trains, but this train was small, and the seats were cramped, even in first class! I had to stand half of the ride because the person next to me was hogging some of my 1st class seat. I even got sick. Worst train ride ever for me!
Posted by
midwest
28 posts
I'm so glad to find a Trip Report from Croatia in the Forum! We are planning a September 2024 trip although I have to say, I'm not sure that you would recommend it? Honesty is very much appreciated.
Posted by
OP
57 posts
Split and Dubrovnik were both lovely and well worth visiting, I do not regret that these stops were on my itinerary. Neither of these towns a very large, I spent two nights in each and that was plenty, in my opinion 1 - 1/2 days is enough time, unless you are going to plan day trips or unless you are inclined to spend lots of time in cafes/restaurants, which I generally do not.