Cote d'azur & Provence/Occitanie in October (solo, no car)

Nice daytrips continued (Villefranche)
The next day was a Sunday when public transport, especially busses, are less frequent; however trains to and from Villefranche were no problem. I especially liked the small chapel decorated by Jean Cocteau in Villefranche. I had considered trying to go to Vence (inspired by an exhibit of Matisse’s drawings for the chapel there) and St. Paul de Vence but decided that the Sunday transportation options were too time consuming.

Arles
Lodging: I stayed at a wonderful 4-guestroom B&B (not Airbnb), La Maison d’Arles, on Rue l’amphitheatre, down a street from the arena. It was about a 10-15 minute walk to the train station. As a budget traveler, this was by far the nicest (but also one the cheapest) place I stayed; I would not hesitate to recommend it to any budget level traveler. The house was built in the 17th century and beautifully renovated by the host couple about 20 years ago. The host did a bakery run each morning and served the best warm croissants and breads I had anywhere, plus good chooses, fresh fruit, and homemade yogurt. I had booked the small single room but because other rooms were open, she put me in a larger double. The house has a roof terrace and a courtyard terrace but it was too chilly in the morning to eat outdoors.

Memorable restaurants: Le Plaza-La Paillotte and Le Galoubet, both near each other on Rue du Dr. Fanton and near the Van Gogh Foundation

Arles Sights:
I bought the more expensive of the Arles passes which gave access to a number of monuments and museums plus a discount at the private Van Gogh foundation; the price difference between card options was minimal. I visited most of the sites covered by the card including the arena, the Roman theatre, St Trophine basilica and cloister, the ancient history/archeology museum, and the Arletan museum. I was there for the busy and extensive Wednesday market. Although the Van Gogh Foundation typically doesn't have actual Van Gogh paintings, there were 2 there on temporary loan.

As shared below, I found the Arletan and the Luma much more interesting than I would have guessed from guidebook descriptions.

The Arletan ethnographic museum not only traces local history, culture, clothing, artifacts but also how the museum’s purpose and focus has shifted over time. The was an exhibit showing how during the Vichy government period of German occupation during WWII, the museum was used to promulgate what were considered tradition rural values including instructing on traditional dress and behavior for women. This focus was then discarded after liberation. There were also exhibits of typical furnishing and dress in different periods. I should note that my B&B host said that the other guests I had met at breakfast didn’t care for this museum, so not everyone will be as intrigued as I was.

At the suggestion of my B&B host, I visited Luma, an art exhibition space and park with a very modern building and tower designed by architect Frank Gehry. There was an interesting video of Gehry explaining how he tried to capture and reflect the ancient Roman structures in Arles and Van Gogh’s use of light. There is a look out deck with good views at the top. For kids (or adults) there is a double helix stainless steel slide inside the tower. The extensive grounds have installations by contemporary artists that relate to climate change and the topography.

Daytrips from Arles

Avignon
I had read a bunch of Avignon versus Arles commentary on this forum and advice from friends. I liked Avignon more than I anticipated but I was very, very happy with my choice of Arles as a base because after Nice, Avignon was again a busy city whereas Arles felt like a much small scale and quieter space for contrast and variety.

The train to Avignon was only 20 minutes. I picked up a map at the TI and followed the two suggested Avignon walk’s in the RS guide; one is an overview of key sights and one is more backstreets. I saw the Palais des Popes from the outside but didn’t go in based on my limited time and the disappointed reviews I read about it on this forum and elsewhere. I thought that if I had time, I might go back later but didn’t have time.

I did go into the free Petit Palais and enjoyed an unexpected highlight and wow moment, at least for me. This may be a bit of art history nerdiness. A temporary exhibit on Cimabue as paving the way to Renaissance painting had been extended beyond scheduled dates. It included a rarely exhibited, recently discovered, restored, and verified Cimabue (Mocking of Christ) on loan from the Louvre.

For the afternoon, I had booked a Luberon villages half-day small group van tour from Avignon with A La Francaise. Luberon tours were not available from Arles. The tour started at 1:30 and returned at 7pm. There were only 5 in our group. The schedule was perfect for me, allowing me to get to Avignon from Arles and see some of Avignon in addition to the Luberon. As a solo traveler, spending time with a group was a nice break. I found the guide, Emily, very friendly, fun, knowledgeable and informative. We stopped at Roussillon, Gordes, Pont Julian (a 2000 year old Roman bridge), and the public area outside of the (private, Pierre Cardon) castle in Lacoste. This tour is a great option for those without a car who want a taste of the Luberon. However, if you want enough time to walk the Ocher Trail in Roussillon or go into a cave available in Gordes, you would need to find a tour that allows more time at these stops. I did see some full day tours that had a 2 hour stop in Roussillon.

Nimes (on my way to Uzes). I took a train from Arles to Nimes. Following the RS guide suggestion, I checked my bag at the Hotel Abalone right near the train station. The hotel had a bathroom for public use and gave me a city map. I stopped at the TI to buy a monument combo pass and to confirm my bus information for travel to Uzes later that day. I visited the Roman Maison Caree and arena but not the more out of the way tower also covered by the pass. I did the RS guide suggested walk. For some reason, I was less excited about Nimes than Arles or Avignon, but I don’t at all regret the partial day I spent there.

St. Remy – had planned to go but didn’t because the bus schedule, while doable, was unappealing. From what I had read beforehand, I expected more bus options; the TI folks were also surprised how few there were – maybe because it was a school holiday week. I would have arrived on market day (my plan) but after the market ended. I was advised not to rely on the last bus back because these sometimes are full which would have left me with very little time.

Uzes

Logistics: IiO bus 152 from behind the Nimes train station took about an hour with several busses per day. Cost was 2 Euro, ok to pay driver when boarding, cash required but exact change not required. I was nervous about keeping track to get off at the right stop because the bus didn’t actually stop at most of the stops listed when no one requested them. It turned out that Uzes was the last stop and most of the people on the bus got off there, so no problem. Conveniently, the place I was staying was just across a small street from the Tourist Information. The TI provided a map with descriptions of various sights in town, and helped me figure out my options on Saturday and Sunday with busses for visiting Pont du Gard (IiO bus 115) and Saint Quentin de Poterie (bus 152).

Lodging: Hotel La Taverne de Sophie is a small (10 room), 2-star hotel run by the same family for over 50 years. The room was simple with minimal furnishings but high, part-timbered ceiling. The ensuite toilet was in a separate space than the ensuite sink and shower. Breakfast was extra and as I am not a big breakfast eater I chose to get coffee and croissant at cafes instead. Newpaper clippings indicated that La Taverne is a beloved local institution which also had a popular restaurant for many years. My impression is that there are many Airbnb and other rentals in outside investor owned and renovated properties available in Uzes; some in amazing old buildings. I am glad that I personally stayed in a local family-run establishment. However, my understanding is that the outside investor rentals, rather than driving local residents out, have been important in maintaining the physical structure and population of a number of historic French villages such as Uzes. I would be interested in hearing what others know about this.

Eating in Uzes: There is an extensive Saturday morning market with lots of good stuff to eat. There was also a two day Medieval Festival while I was there which meant that there were a number of food stalls open all day Saturday and Sunday for beverages, lunch, snacks.enjoyed dining outdoors at Les Terroirs and La Famille, both on Place des Herbes, the leafy central square. On the chillier, drizzly evening after my day trip to Pont du Gard, I had dinner at Midi a l’ombre, which I found down the small street from my hotel, and enjoyed that too.

Signts in Uzes: No specific memorable individual sights but I enjoyed walking around and viewing many of the buildings described on the map from the TI, as well as the processions and short performances that were part of the Medieval Festival. For the festival, there were locals in costumes walking around, eating or serving in restuarants, etc. throughout the weekend. I also liked visiting a number of galleries and artisan studios/shops, especially an exhibition at Maison des Artisans d’Art d’Uzes. I did not go into the ducal palace or other sights. I wanted to go into the Jardin Medieval but couldn’t make the opening times due to my daytrips.

Daytrips from Uzes (these could also be done from Avignon, Nimes, Arles).

Saint Quentin la Poterie: As a ceramics fan and potter, this was heaven. The village is charming and lovely to walk around. The small museum’s permanent collection focuses on historical ceramics in France and, to an extent, the Mediterranean. The temporary exhibition was on work by women ceramic artists who worked or lived in France in the 1950s and 1960s (mid-century modern). Next to the museum is Terraviva, a very contemporary, high end, excellent ceramic gallery that was recommended to me by several people I talked to in Uzes. The gallery person was very helpful in suggesting where else to go. The museum staffperson had given me a map that showed the 25 local pottery studios/shops to visit. A window structure in the wall included sample pieces from each artist so you could choose where to visit but mostly I just happily wondered until I needed to stop for ice cream and rest.

Because there were few busses on Saturday, I took a taxi there from Uzes (13 euros) and then the 152 bus back. If I had arrived by bus, I would have started by a visitor information center but that was closed on Saturday.

Pont du Gard: Although busses are fewer on Sundays, and it was threatening rain, my afternoon trip (bus 115 from Uzes also goes to and from Avignon), worked out fine. It was not crowded and the rain was never more than a drizzle; I did put on and take off my packable rain jacket a couple times. Given the weather, the ticket seller advised saving the museum until after seeing the bridge in case it started raining harder (which it didn’t). I had plenty of time to walk around on both side and do some extra paths, and then spent quite a long time in the museum, and finally the café before it was time for my bus back to Uzes. I used the RS guide advice on visiting this sight. I have to admit that after Nimes, I was thinking that maybe I had enough Roman ruins but all the other folks on my Luberon tour had been to Pont du Gard and strongly recommended it. I am really happy I went.

Marseille
Someone on this forum had suggested spending at least a full day in Marseill rather than just the night before heading to the airport. I am very glad I took that suggestion. I found Marseille, with its large North African population, interesting and very different than other places I have been in France.

Logistics: Arrived by us from Uzes to Nimes, then train from Nimes to St. Charles station Marseille. I walked downhill to my hotel in the Vieux Port area. To depart, I took a bus to St. Charles (uphill) and then the airport bus from behind the train station to the Marseille airport. The local bus took tap and go credit card but the bus to the airport required cash (don’t remember exact amount). Slight drama at the airport, which was shut down for a while due to an unattended bag but my flight was only about an hour delayed whereas people had speculated many more hours for the shutdown.

Lodging: Hotel Hermes, a 2-star in the Vieux Port area. Clean, comfortable, very convenient location, friendly helpful staff. Again, I didn’t opt to pay extra for breakfast but was happy to buy coffee from the hotel in the morning; it was on the house the second morning. The room was quite snug as I had read in guidebooks. I was happy it had a towel warmer for lhandwashed items.

Memorable dinners: Chez Madie Les Galinettes on the Quai de Port for a delicious 3-fish in garlic sauce dish and a very nice white wine. La Kahena, a Tunisian restaurant, for lamb couscous. This was the only restaurant I ate at that didn’t serve any wine by the glass.

Sights: The afternoon I arrived was a Monday (museums closed) and the only day of real rain on my trip so I didn’t see much that day. I had hoped to book a walking tour for the next day but there were none available for me to join or that would go with just one person. Although there are a number of museums I was interested in, I chose to spend my last day walking around, after taking the Petite Train (tourist train) around part of the city across the bay from Vieux Port and up the steep hill to Notre Dame church. I more or less followed the RS guide walk and especially enjoyed wandering in the small winding hilly streets and little squares of the historic Le Panier area.

What a wonderful full trip and a pleasure to read your report.

Thanks Elizabeth. I know that some of your posts were very helpful in planning the trip.

Your tastes in lodging seem close to my own so I'm keeping this report in the back of my mind for my next visit in Provence. I'm also usually a bus and train traveler but I used a taxi for the cathedral in Marseilles b/c it drops you off right at the door -- minimal hill- and stair-climbing necessary.

Chez Madie is fun example of one of those popular with the guidebooks but still authentic dining spots.

What were some of your favorite hiking moments?

avirosemail: I did a lot of walking but not any serious or strenuous hiking. My most surprising moment was walking on a lovely coastal trail near Port Saint Jean when my phone beeped and it was T-mobile with a "welcome to Italy" text. At least by land, the Italian border was about. 30 km away.