Despite reports saying the trails are open, be aware that the seaside trails are not open at all, not even the "Walk of Love" starting in Riomaggiore. We have hiked the Cinque many, many times and were just there again May 2013. There are lots of toursits milling around with no real idea of where to hike. You can hike uphill, away from the coast, you can take the train between villages, but the old hiking trails are NOT open. BEWARE and plan accordingly.
I was just there a week ago and hiked from manarola to monterosso round trip. It's true Riomaggiore is closed and manarola to vernazza is a little higher up. But you can still hike these trails and its amazing.
Yes, James, we have hiked that beautiful trail before and I'm glad to hear it's open. The trails I am most sorry to see closed are the ones between Riomaggiore and Vernazza. But, something is better than nothing.
However, far too many people trying to hike just one trail, in my opinion. There should be more information available to brand new travelers there so they are aware there are other options.
I have every hope that the whole trail will be there for many future travelers as it was a highlight of my 1st trip to Italy in 2009. Even then, there was a washed out segment between Vernazza & Corniglia with a wooden pallet as a quick repair & unfortunately the trail was closed between Corniglia & Manarola, so we jumped onto the train to make it to Riomaggiore to walk "walk of love"