I've wanted to visit the Cinque Terre ever since I first saw it on Rick Steves' television program. It was every thing I ever dreamed of and more! We flew into Milan and spent the night at the Crowne Plaza near Linate airport. In the morning we took the train to Corniglia. As we sat on the train waiting to leave Milan, a couple, had actually met Rick Steves years ago, took the middle seats in the compartment. They were from New Jersey and were also headed to the CT. They got off the train in Vernazza and we headed on to Corniglia. We had reserved the Cavecia apartment and with the help of the nice lady at the mini market around the corner, we connected with lovely landlady Lidia. She provided maps, hike suggestions, fresh lemons, espresso-making instructions, and keys to the rooftop terrace of her other building! Our apartment had a fully furnished kitchen and a washing machine. It was great to hang our laundry out on the clothesline on our little terrace, just like our neighbors! We hiked to Vernazza on our second morning--the trail was "closed" so we didn't have to pay. The hike was fine--not too terribly difficult. In Vernazza, we had lunch at Taverna Del Capitano, where we had anchovies, seafood spaghetti, red wine, and the best lemon cake ever! We talked to Patty and her partner, from Northern California, who had walked to Vernazza from Levanto! We were impressed. After lunch, we walked to Monterosso. The trail from Vernazza to Monterosso was "open," so we had to buy the 7.50 euro tickets to hike it. It was much steeper and less well tended than the "closed" path from Corniglia to Vernazza, but we made it. We had beers on the terrace at Il Casello; they weren't serving food at that time. Then we walked through town and stopped for delicious, fresh, hot cones of mixed seafood and french fries at the stand under the train tracks. Sadly, I didn't pay attention to its name but this was the best fried seafood we had in the CT--better than in any of the restaurants we visited and better than at Il Pescato Cucinato in Riomaggiore--just sayin'. The next day we took the train to Manarola because the trail from Corniglia to Manarola was really closed. The only trail open was the high one, which was too steep and scary for us. In Manarola, we climbed to the best restaurant on the trip, Trattoria dal Billy, where we had a grilled fish, nut cake, house white wine, and free limoncello and talked to some nice people from Canada who recommended Ciak in Monterosso. Then we walked around on the Mananola terraces for a while and headed home to Corniglia. Next day we took the train to Riomaggiore. We walked as far as we could on the CT trails, which wasn't far, as there were gates up preventing us from continuing. So we walked up to the sanctuary above the town, which was a nice hike with lovely views from the top. The next day we took the train to La Spezia, then hunted for the bus stop for the bus to Portovenere, which was a street away from where it should have been according to the directions in the Rick Steves Italy book. But a nice Italian man told us where it was. We walked around Portovenere and had lunch at Le Bocche, which was splendid. Then we took the boat back to Manarola, and then the train to Corniglia. The best place to eat in Corniglia is Food and Sea IMHO. I ate there three times. They have red Forst beer on tap which goes really well with their diavola pizza. The view is lovely and the staff are friendly and always happy to see you. I did go to Monterosso to have seafood spaghetti at Ciak, but I wasn't unduly impressed. The seafood spaghetti, the service, and the views were better at Trattoria dal Billy in Manarola and Ristorante Il Gambero Rosso in Vernazza. I also went to La Cantina Di Miky in Monterosso to try a tap beer, which cost twice as much as a tap beer at bars in Levanto and Bonassola, although La Cantina Di Miky had the most upscale bathroom I encountered in the CT.
Posted by
franktown, colorado
2252 posts
Thanks for a wonderful trip report; particularly timely as I will be there with my family in June. I'm happy for the information and also to hear that you had such a great time!
Posted by
1 posts
I was in CT two weeks ago, and I must warn about crushing crowds on the trains and in the villages in the daytime. Vernazza was particularly packed. My advice is to to hit the trail during the day. There are some amazing views on the trail and if you make the considerable effort to hike up to the cemetery in Vernazza. More on the positive side, we enjoyed meals and service at La Cantina Di MIky in Monterosso and an excellent stay in the Hotel Punta Mesco.
FWIW
Posted by
new jersey
1 posts
I was just there and had lots of the beers at Cantina di miky, they cost more because they are artisanal craft beers - not like moretti or something (which is like the bud or miller or whatever of italy). They're more like dogfish head beers that do cost more. I ate at capitano too and loved their anchovy stew!!
Posted by
2 posts
My daughter's and I were there on May 11th & 12th - staying in Riomaggiore. The whole of the CT was pretty crowded, don't want to think how it must be in June and July. Perhaps its crowded due to Rick Steves! We saw lots of people carrying their copy of Rick Steves Italy. Most of the trails were closed. We were able to take the lovely ferry ride to Monterosso and hike the one open trial to Vernazza. It was a warm day and the hike is steep and difficult. We came upon a man who was hiking alone and had a heart attack on the trail. There were about 6 or 7 of us there and a doctor came along, but he could not be saved. It took a good 30-40 mins. for the helicopters to arrive. This trail is not for everyone. We will always wonder about this man and his story. Sad.
Posted by
Grass Valley, California
506 posts
Just returned and the towns were lovely, the days are very crowded, I saw lots of tour groups in Verrnaza that were from cruise ships and with the trails closed all the people are in the town, really hard to get on and off the trains they were so crowded. If you went to dinner by 7 you were fine, but crowded after that.
Posted by
Williamstown, MA
260 posts
We were there for the second time two years ago and found it absolutely unbearably crowded, thanks to combo of cruise ship hoards and RS guide book and tours. Sad. Don't recommend
Posted by
3 posts
We are currently in CT and loving it - June 2015 - but do find the crowds annoying - many tour groups stay at each town only an hour or so but some have the audacity to sit on your towels at the beaches! We generally have no trouble getting a table at 8 pm and it's perfect timing for the glorious sunsets. Our accommodation is in the residential area of Manarola (seen in every post card!) but some tourists like to be rather loud about their proclamations about the setting sun to the locals' express annoyance. Even if you think you've died and gone to heaven happy that you've already seen it and want to dance to your fave Adele song on your iPad, please use some restraint or express it inwardly if you're on someone's doorstep - others are also enjoying their own private moment!
Hiking - best advice I've heard is to take it on only if you have a high fitness level and do so when it's not 30' C. Even the fit 20-something's we talked to about the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza found it difficult. I hope that the via del amour opens again!
One question for all of you - did I imagine it or is there a restaurant that is built inside a Rocky cliff overhanging the sea? White tablecloths, etc.... We searched and did not find it - is it her in CT or possibly Mexico? Thanks... Ciao!
Posted by
4 posts
CT was jammed in the villages when we were there in mid-June, including tour boat hordes bused into sweet Manarola where we stayed -- starting mid-morning. However, like visiting Yellowstone NP in the summer, our solution was to get out on the trails, where it was peaceful, no crowds, stunningly beautiful, fascinating with the gardens, grapes vines and olive groves, and good food and drink always waiting at the destinations. We are 57 and 64 y-o, good hikers and explorers, but nothing extraordinary. I was disappointed there was not more info about trails in RS guide, and no references to other trail maps or other guides that I found. I wondered if the many closures of the main costal trails were being ignored because it's bad for biz, or it's just too complicated to keep current. We were given an overall map with OK general info of the trails, like a basic tourist guide but didn't find anything else. Anyones recommendation for a good map might be useful for others.
We hiked to Volastra from Manarola one morning, stoping for great coffee and frittata, on to Cornelia for great insalata lunch at La Posada outside with fab view, The trail to Vernazza was a little hard to find, and was supposed to be closed but it didn't seem to be, and was a wonderful route high above the water. The trail was full benched, mostly on a rock platform, up and down with another fine place for iced coffee half way. Vernazza seemed to be mostly for shopping but the train took us back. The next day we hiked the short, very steep trail to Riomaggiore, straight up on steps and straight down, partly in rain and pretty challenging. The National Park center wasn't real helpful, lots of people milling in town and the train was welcome. We then hiked up to Groppo, where everything was closed at 5 p.m., along a garden delight trail. The trail to Volastra from Groppo was very challenging, with a stretch overgrown and no trail markers. Overall, most of the trails had pretty good signs, with good painted trail markers on rocks and mostly very good pathways and trail tread, with a few places hanging in thin threads high on cliffs. Highly recommended for adventurous ones but look for a decent map.
We also did a wine cellar tour, all inside because it was then raining and slippery on the rocks in the vineyards, with our host at La Vigna di Gigi, which was fascinating.
All in all - great hiking, eating and sipping of coffee and wine.
Posted by
San Leandro, CA, USA
518 posts
The first time I went to CT was in Sept. 2003 with a college buddy. I was enamored with the quaint beauty and ease of living there. I had always wanted to return and finally did in Sept. 2014 for my honeymoon. Both times I stayed in Vernazza. In the 11 years between my two visits the crowds haven't changed all that much and for that matter, neither has the beauty.