Just returned earlier this week. Another great trip to England! Happy 250th, Jane Austen!
London Arrival Day – spent the initial jet lag hours walking through Hyde Park.
London Day 2 – had reserved tickets for Kensington Palace and the Dress Codes exhibit. We visited Dress Codes first and really enjoyed. At 1:45 PM, we were able to step out and see the VE Day flyover. We transferred from our small hotel near Lancaster Gate to an Air BnB near Barons Court. Lunch at Kensington Palace Cafe and dinner at The Cumberland Arms pub on N. End Road. Nothing super fancy, but the fish and sides were good.
Alton/Chawton Day Trip (Day 3) – We had a booked time to visit Jane Austen’s house. Took the train from Waterloo Station to Alton and had reserved a taxi (Wilson taxi) from the Alton station to Chawton. I thoroughly enjoyed the house and the small exhibit on the 1990s P&P, Persuasion, and Clueless. We walked over to ‘the big house’ (Jane’s brother’s) but it wasn’t open the day we were there. We did step inside the church and viewed the gravesites of the two Cassandras (mother and daughter). Taxis were busy at the end of the afternoon, so we walked back into Alton. The walk takes less than a half hour. It does involve crossing a roundabout, but there is a pedestrian crossing. Tip: if you know you’ll need a taxi both directions, you may want to book a return trip in advance. Also, consider making the trip on a day when both houses are open. Lunch at Cassandra’s Cup
London Day 4 – I met up with an English friend for coffee at Monmouth Coffee Co. in Seven Dials. V. good coffee. Afterwards, I visited Apsley House (Duke of Wellington’s residence). I used the audio guide. It’s an impressive house, much of which is dedicated to art, décor, and the spoils of war/gifts. I learned quite a bit.
Winchester Day 5 – Checked into the Winchester Royal Hotel (charming, lovely garden). We had tickets for the afternoon city guide walking tour. Great history, walking along the river and stepping into the remains of Wolvesey Castle, walking by Jane’s last place of residence on College Street, and ending at the cathedral. If you like history, I cannot recommend these walking tours enough. I like Winchester—it has a lively High Street, and its core is easily walkable. Dinner: Ghurka’s Inn, City Road. Excellent Indian & Nepalese menu
Bath Days 6 and 7 (note: skipped Roman Baths—visited on a prior trip)
Checked into the Hampton Inn. Yes, there is a buffet. Real plates, real coffee mugs, real utensils! We had tickets to Austens at the Abbey—a 6:00 PM tour of the Abbey interior with a focus on the people of Bath during Georgian and Regency times along with explanations of some of the individual memorials. (Tickets on the Bath Abbey website—it runs on specific dates.) Dinner: Antica
On the 2nd day, we took the 10:30 free city walking tour. Excellent tour that begins at the Abbey, makes its way through town to the Royal Crescent then back down the hill to finish near the river and the Abbey. Highly recommend. We also booked the No. 1 Royal Crescent Jane Austen Experience. Had dinner at The Architect. William Morris fans, take note, you’ll probably want to stop by this pub/restaurant. Enjoyed our meal here.
London Days 8 and 9
Back in London, stayed at the Doubletree Hyde Park. Took the Tube to The Blue Boat (Fulham Reach) and walked along the Thames Path towards Barons Court. It was a sunny Sunday, so all the pub’s outdoor seating was taken. We had fish ‘n chips indoors. Okay but not my favorite pub meal of the trip. The next day we had afternoon tea booked at the Park Room at the Grosvenor House near Marble Arch. Lovely and wonderful staff! If you’re looking for a hotel tea, I would recommend this as an option. On the last evening, tickets to Austentacious at the Vaudeville Theatre. The play changes each time it’s presented based on audience suggestions. Fun Regency improv with plenty of laughter.