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Budapest: Same Time, Next Year

So, I seem to be having a thing with Budapest--just made my 4th visit and for the third time visited in mid to late May because I need to see the nesting storks on Margit sziget. There are other reasons, like my job needs me present during the summer, and I like to avoid hideously hot weather, but the storks make me very happy indeed. I've done many if not all of the tourist things--sorry, not tempted by the baths--so my visits now are more personal and this trip I really needed some relaxing time.

I arrived around 3 pm on Tuesday the 15th and bought my 7 day transit pass (hetjegy) at the airport and was taken expeditiously by Fo Taxi to my new location (I previously loved staying off Fovam ter near the river) at Hotel Medosz on Jokai ter, just off Andrassy ut and 2 blocks to the Oktogon metro stop. Taxi cost 6800 HUF. I was briefly tempted by the new airport express bus, but I saw it twice during my stay and both times it was jam-packed with people, standing room only--no thanks, not the way I like to arrive or depart if I can avoid it. I liked this hotel a lot--the lobby needs renovating but the room was fabulous; queen bed, quiet, enormous and with a wall of windows so great light, excellent breakfast included, with a big terrace with a panoramic view of Castle Hill, St Stephens and Parliament--perfect for a beer in the evening or coffee in the morning. It was lovely and made my 6 nights very comfortable.

I immediately set off by tram to Margit sziget, the little zoo is open til 6 and I spent a good hour there communing with the birds--3 pairs of nesting storks, a 4th pair in a separate area and no signs of chicks. The work on the island seems done and the bus that runs through it is running again--that helps as the nature preserve is a good 1/2 mile onto the island.

First full day I spent in Vienna--an easy 21/2 hr train trip and I enjoyed a day wandering this beautiful city, riding the Riesenrad and having lunch at a place I love in the Prater called Englischer Reiter--the grossmutterschnitzel is fabulous--seeing Beyond Klimt at the Lower Belvedere and just enjoying a pleasant day. Some of the trams that circle the Ring area weren't running due to some kind of work being done, a minor aggravation.

I finally visited the Hospital in the Rock--what an incredibly interesting museum! Bottom of Castle Hill, there's an elevator down to it and the 1 hour tour was just fascinating. Then I happened upon some kind of solemn ceremony commemorating Something Important at a monument in the square complete with attractive soldiers, huszars, marching band, cars being towed, rain--it was all quite thrilling.

I made a trip to Pecs; had bought my train ticket from Kelenfold (very easy to collect my Keleti and Kelenfold tickets bought online from the machine at Nyugati) and arrived at the station and it seemed I needed to get on a bus--but why? And to where?! No one else--i.e. the Hungarians--seemed perturbed so off I went on a bus to Szazhalombatta, a good 45 minutes away. Nice to see outside Budapest proper. The radio on the bus was playing American rock music and that was oddly soothing. At Szazhalombatta there was a train waiting and we got on it and arrived in Pecs exactly on time--return trip exactly the same. It was odd, and I have no idea why it happened. A bus driver in Pecs kindly gave me a free ride a couple of stops and I started with their ethnographic museum--very small, probably not interesting to most people--then onto the Csontvary, Vasarely and fabulous Zsolnay museums. Lunch outdoors at the main square and more wandering--it's really a lovely little town, worth a day or overnight stay. There's little to no English spoken--they are kind but seemed unsure of what to do with me.

Posted by
2679 posts

Thanks for all of this! I'm arriving for my maiden visit in 4 weeks and I appreciate the tips!

Posted by
2688 posts

Saturday--my favorite day as it was finally Ecseri day! The flea market on the outskirts of town is full of the old pottery pieces I collect and a ton of other goofy old foreign stuff, and I happily made the 45 minute trip to get there--metro line 3 is closed all day on weekends so I caught the tram 2 at Jaszai Mari ter to Haller utca and then onto bus 55. Ended up with 5 pieces and had a good chat with a man who possibly invited me over for dinner, still not sure, he seemed to like me...I've been learning Hungarian--I'm half Hungarian on my mom's side and it's a fun way to stay connected to a place I dearly love--and that does help at the flea market where little English is spoken. Later in the afternoon I decided to visit my storks again and ended up taking shelter from a thunderstorm in the horse shed with a couple of horses giving me the side-eye. Finally decided to brave it and make a run for the bus as I had a ticket at the Operettszinhaz that night at 7. A quick 2 block walk from the hotel, had dinner at the bistro next door. Singin' in the Rain was an utter joy--the whole experience of the Operett is a delight, quality productions staged in a gorgeous old theatre and I never hear anyone around me speaking anything but Hungarian. There are super-titles, and it was funny to hear all the familiar songs sung in Hungarian. I had a box seat for about $35 US and I cannot recommend this theatre highly enough, saw The Duchess of Chicago there in 2016.

I had originally planned this trip to cover the 3rd weekend in May as the Museum Festival seemed to happen then, but at the last minute I discovered it happened the weekend prior--I think due to Pentecost. Small disappointment, but I quickly found several other things to do as Hungarians love to celebrate whenever possible. First a folk festival on Castle Hill--music, dancing, crafts, wonderful things to eat and drink, spent a few hours there and at the Varkert Bazaar just below the Hill before heading to City Park, exploring and just enjoying the warm weather and touring the wonderful folk art exhibit at the Mucsarnok. Back to my neighborhood and had a final dinner at Urban Betyar on Oktober 6 utca. Great food, sat outside. There's a good bookstore nearby called Bestsellers, huge English offering, that's how I found Urban Betyar last year.

I just recalled something helpful--twice on the M1 line there were ticket inspectors, didn't encounter on any other buses or trams. Once I was asked for photo ID and she was surprised when I asked if a passport would work--I do believe I was taken for a Hungarian :)

All too soon it was time to leave-called City taxi for my return to the airport, at 6 am on a Monday they arrived within 5 minutes and the fare was 6700 HUF. Unfortunately when I exited the taxi I felt my back go "sproing" and there I was with a supremely put-out lower back, on my way to Munich for 6 nights. This is something that plagues me occasionally--spasms, pulled to one side--so I just deal with it but really not happy about exploring a new city and country in less than tip-top physical shape. To be continued in a separate post...

Posted by
3551 posts

I also was mesmerized by storks but in Germany nr Lake Constance. It is a sight to enjoy I agree.

Posted by
2296 posts

Thanks for this! We'll be there in two weeks and I appreciate the info. I'm especially happy to read your impression of Hospital in the Rock as I was urging out group to go see it.

Posted by
920 posts

Love reading this Christa......and all of the details mean so much....thanks!

Posted by
4259 posts

We visited the hospital in the rock museum and it was very interesting. Worth the trip.

Posted by
1441 posts

Enjoyed the report, Budapest is on my list. I feel for you on pulling out your back. Years ago I was leaving southern Italy, going through Rome & ending in Los Angeles. Pulled by back out just as we were boarding in Brindisi Airport. Managed the short flight to Rome, but knew the longer flight would be miserable. Some wine before the flight, some more on the flight & I was relaxed enough to cut the pain.

Posted by
2688 posts

Brushtim--I was so looking forward to drinking lots of different beer in Munich that really it's probably for the best I didn't have my Vicodin with me, ibuprofen helped enough.

Posted by
4045 posts

Nice report, Christa. Thanks for sharing. Do I recall correctly that you have a thing for Vienna, too... and all things Third Man... like the Riesenrad?

Posted by
2688 posts

Dave--yes, that's me, a total fool for The Third Man. While in Vienna I made a stop at the Harry Lime door at 8 Schreyvogelgasse (off Universitatsring); I had to walk from the U at Karlsplatz because the tram I thought I would catch wasn't running. When I stopped by last year the entire front of the building was shrouded in plastic and clearly renovations were happening, so I was relieved to see the door with its angels over the frame was still exactly the same.

Posted by
4045 posts

I haven't made it to the Harry Lime door. I need to do that! Thanks for providing the address. I'm not sure when I'll be in Vienna again, but I will look for it.

Posted by
2688 posts

It was fun finding it on my own the first time I visited Vienna in 2014, like a treasure hunt--my Streetwise map even has it noted by name. It's near a building where Beethoven once lived and that attracts a few people, but I had my visions of Harry smirking in the doorway all to myself. Later that trip I took a guided Third Man tour and we ended up there and a man was outside playing the zither for us which totally made it perfect.

Posted by
681 posts

Thanks for the report. Budapest is coming up on my must do list more and more so I enjoyed your insights.

Posted by
4045 posts

I was in Budapest around 18 months ago. I had the advantage of knowing a US ex pat family that was living there. I read Twelve Days: the Story of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution before going (which is an excellent, readable recounting of those events). We were walking to church on Sunday morning, when we passed a movie theater. I thought to myself, "That looks like the picture of the theater where university students held out to fight the Russians in 1956." It was indeed that theater... still showing movies. There are plaques all along the wall and a statue of a young adolescent holding a gun to memorialize the history of the building. It was a great, serendipitous find -- one of many, many favorite things I saw in Budapest.