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Budapest--3rd Time & Counting

At the end of my 2 week trip that included Amsterdam & Vienna I spent 4 nights in Budapest--my 3rd visit in as many years, just there last May and it's reached the point that I can't visit Europe without including a stop there as it's my favorite place to be. I've been slowly learning Hungarian, which is mostly simple sentences and an increasing vocabulary right now--and it actually came in use when I visited the Ecseri flea market. Plenty of English spoken in tourist areas, but get a bit outside the main area and it gets a lot more challenging. I've done the major sites already: Parliament, Terror House, Dohany Synagogue, Castle Hill, National Gallery, Neprajzi Muzeum, etc, no interest in the baths.

I arrived via train from Vienna around 1:30 pm at Keleti and immediately went to the mid-level and got my transit pass, then down into the metro to catch line 4 to Fovam ter, from there just a short walk to the Residence Baron on So utca--I stayed there last May and really enjoyed it, very friendly & helpful staff, big room with a view of the Danube and very quiet, excellent breakfast included. My first item on the agenda was to visit Margit sziget again and see my storks--discovered the little nature reserve there last year and as they are favorites I couldn't wait to see them again. Kossuth Lajos metro station is closed right now, the one that serves Parliament, and for some reason tram #2 stopped right there and we all had to get off, though later in my trip I saw the trams going all the way to the end. So I walked several blocks down Falk Miksa to get to Szent Istvan and catch the 4 or 6 to the middle of Margit hid, hoping to then catch the bus on the island to get closer to the reserve. Epic construction going on and no bus so I kept on walking, it started to drizzle and I became worried the reserve would be closed. But sure enough, soon I could hear bird noises, and got to spend a good hour observing the storks. There are 2 nests and they take turns sitting, and otherwise doing charming stork things like adding grass to the nest, preening, and doing their beak-clacking mating thing--and you can get within a few feet of them, unlike Amsterdam. With all the construction at this point I don't recommend a visit out there unless you are a bird lover like me, or want to go jogging as the track is undisturbed.

Back to town and caught the spring festival going on at Vorosmarty ter--nice selection of handmade items and all kinds of food booths, all very cheap. I had beer and a grilled chicken langos, then headed a block down Vaci utca to Kristof ter as I wanted to buy a Budapest ring at a little watch shop called It's Time. The ring is sterling and features the silhouettes of Budapest all around, Parliament, Szechenyi bridge, Liberty statue, etc. It was approx. $100 US and I'm enormously pleased with it.

Saturday I accomplished finding the Ecseri bolhapiac, flea market. It eluded me my first visit and this time I had iron-clad directions and made it--I was SO EXCITED! Very simple, really: tram 2 (direction of Kozvagohid) to Haller utca, cross tracks to bus stop (still heading in the same direction) and get on either bus 54 or 55, ride about 25 minutes to the Naszod utca stop, cross the highway bridge and there it is. Return bus stop is right in front of market. Some outside stalls, more inside and they pack up starting around 1 pm though it's open til 3. I spent about 2 hours and it was all old stuff, no clothes or new stuff like socks and deodorant. The dealers are open to bargaining, but prices were cheap in my estimation. Lots of Soviet era items, plenty of household stuff and lots of what I was after, pottery from the 1930s-40s, specifically Komlos. I ended up with 4 pieces and now I really can't wait to get back there again.

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2688 posts

The rest of Saturday was spent wandering Castle Hill, away from the main areas you can walk peacefully and enjoy views of the Roszadomb area, though it's hard to resist seeing Pest from the area near Fishermen's Bastion and the church. I needed a new book so back to the Szent Istvan area to Bestsellers on Oktober 6 utca, great English selection as well as many books about Hungary, fiction and non. I ended up eating nearby at Urban Betyar (highwayman) and had a great toltott kaposzta, stuffed cabbage.

Sunday I had thought I'd maybe take the train to Pecs for a long day trip (3 hrs each way) but decided not to and instead ventured out to Memento Park. My edition of Rick's book doesn't encourage public transit but I know I'm the sort who likes to get in and out on my schedule so I googled a bit and found these easy instructions: M4 to Ujbuda kozpont, exit and bus stop is right there for 150 to Budateteny, ride is about 30 minutes and exit at Memento Park. On the return I realized that I could have taken the 4 metro to Kelenfold and caught the bus there, so either way it was very simple--just check the return bus stop to know what time to catch it, on a Sunday they ran every 1/2 hour. The park does offer a bus service from Deak ter at 11:00 am, return leaves at 1:30 but I found public transit more to my taste. I spent a good hour there and was very glad I made the effort, the statues and plaques really tell a story.
Next was a return to the Neprajzi Muzeum, (Ethnographic) across from Parliament. I have Hungarian heritage and love seeing all the exhibits of clothing, household items, toys and the descriptions of life in Hungary in the late 1800s-1930s is fascinating. Also a special exhibit on shoes that really made it a good choice to see again. Later I ended up back at Vorosmarty ter for more street food, very glad this fair was happening while I was there.

Monday was May Day, a major holiday and yet many tourist stores were open. I did what the Hungarians do and headed for City Park, M1 was jam-packed but early in the day it was bearable, by 4 it was utter madness. I visited the zoo, not so much for the animals but to see the gorgeous Art Nouveau buildings, Zsolnay tile accents and mosaics. Then I explored the park, wanted to see the Szechenyi baths, and there was a carnival going on, more food and drink and things to buy, but very hard to move at all. Mostly I just enjoyed being amongst the Hungarian people celebrating a holiday. Back to Deak Ferenc ter station and caught a bit of the car racing going on down Andrassy ut--somehow I cannot imagine us accomplishing the closure of a major blvd in America for car racing, but Budapest did it perfectly. All too soon it was time to get ready to leave the next morning on the 6:30 am flight. City taxi picked me up within 5 minutes of calling, left at 4 am and at the airport by 4:30, this time check-in and security went very quickly. Taxi ride was 6460 HUF, about $22 US.

I really need to put some effort into exploring more outside of Budapest, that will have to be by train and that's where I get hung up as a solo traveler. Don't really want to hassle with a car rental.

All in all it was an excellent trip, something new as in Amsterdam combined with returns to cities I love, and due to unexpected major abdominal surgery on February 2 there was quite a bit of wondering if I'd get to go at all--but I recovered easily and had all my stamina, so grateful for that.

Posted by
6528 posts

Christa, thank you so much for your three trip reports. You write well; I felt I was there with you as I read.

Posted by
985 posts

What a nice trio of reports. It's so interesting to be able to visit local festivals and flea markets and you lucked out with both, plus made it to see the storks. Thanks for sharing your reports with us!