Please sign in to post.

Brief impressions, Lyon

I've come to enjoy one of the Seven Deadly Sins of European travel: hotel breakfasts. Specifically the diners themselves. No matter where they are from, or where they are going, they're eating the same cold ham, the same strawberry yogurt and the same Emmental cheese as I am. Banal conversations earn a new gravitas when spoken in German, or in the mother's hush of French. Usually, I just let the words wash over me and smile because I'm in France and people are politely speaking French like they don't back in the United States.


So far, I haven't heard much English in Lyon. My friendly, and ill-pronounced, greeting of "bonjour" usually results in a French reply. I immediately have to follow this up with a friendly, ill-pronounced and abashed "ah, je ne parle pas francais". For some reason I always preface the few French terms I know with "ah", just like I end English sentences with "then" when I'm in England.


Lyon feels like a place that's waiting to happen. The vibe and the food call to mind Oaxaca with potable water. You've got your narrow lanes unfit for traffic, and pedestrian-only boulevards. Of course, you have your cathedral (mandatory) and gobs of history (Roman ruins and 20th century tragedy); you have your amazing food ('tho the less said about andoulette the better) and luxury shops in a simulacrum of Champ de Elysees. I suspect the lack of a singular instagram-able image to encapsulate the city has held back the hordes. Darn!


Of the Hotel Celestins, it is a perfectly serviceable hotel in a good location for wandering about. Our room is typically French: small. It's a bit of a challenge to get two people around in. Getting the shower to function is a test worthy of Mensa admittance -- turn this knob, press this button; you'll know you did it right if you're suddenly blasted with icewater. Also, there's no shampoo, so forewarned is forearmed.


Bouchon Tupin

The Perfect Man is wearing a perfectly-fitted Seafoam Green sweater. He sits katty-corner at the table next to mine. I have never seen a man so perfect before. His haircut is perfect. His shave is perfect. The blush on his perfect cheeks is perfect. His chin is perfect. His Rolex is perfect. His simple gold wedding band is perfect. Someday, a magazine called "Perfect Man" will come out, and on its glossy cover, the Perfect Man will be perfectly posed and perfectly photographed, probably by Annie Liebowitz.

His wife/girlfriend/mistress is not as perfect. A trace of Creamed Mushroom soup remains at the bottom of her stoneware bowl and she's not going to let it go to waste. So she scrapescrapescrapescrapes at it with her spoon. She scrapescrapescrapescrapes at it with all the ferocity of a starving Bandicoot digging up a grub. She scrapescrapescrapescrapes and scrapescrapescrapescrapes until she stops for a moment to check whether she's gotten it all. Nope. Scrapescrapescrapescrape.

My wife looks at me.

Blessedly, my Quenelle arrives, along with trout for my wife. The Perfect Man and his annoyingly-industrious companion are out of mind, replaced by other things,

Earlier today I was wine tasting my way through the upper Rhone Valley. The tour was the kind I like: short on production and long on product -- "here's some barrels, here's some vats, let's drink." Given that these were all Rhone wines, there wasn't a plonker in the lot, nor were the samplings on the stingy side. When you're served 2010 Cote Rotie, it's obvious you've met a wine maker who knows her audience, their weaknesses, and the depth of their bank accounts.

Back to the food: it's wonderful, of course. The trout, which I suspect to be Steelhead, is delicately-flavored and cooked to the point a fork slides through it without pressure. My Quenelle is barely fish-flavored, and sauced with something that pours from the tap in Heaven.

(continued below)

Posted by
707 posts

Dessert is a disaster in which my wife is served peanuts mixed in with Hazelnuts. Peanuts are not mentioned on the menu. Peanuts are not mentioned by our apt and able waitress. Peanuts are, however, present and in fatal amounts. It takes the intercession of a friendly Quebequer to straighten the situation out in French. Thank you, Friendly Quebequer, for preventing my wife's death due to poor ingredient management.

Oh, my rating?

Four scrapes: would scrape again.


Daniel et Denise St. Jean.

There is a perfect potato in this world. It is the potato-est potato that every potatoed. It's the superior spud, the triumph of tubers, and it's soaked in duck fat, then flash fried, and served to diners who then realize they will NEVER after have a potato that good. It's sad to leave the other pomme de terres behind, but once you've been to the mountaintop, there's no looking at a pack of crisps the same way again.

My wife had something called a "chicken tornado" and it blew her away. I've never had a dish with "tornado" in the name before, so vive la France for adding to my gastronomical vocabulary.

I'm starting to wonder if I'm not taking Michelin-starred dining seriously enough.

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
1591 posts

HILARIOUS, thank you. I'm going to have to rethink my TR's!!

Posted by
11815 posts

I'm starting to wonder if I'm not taking Michelin-starred dining seriously enough.

Or even Michelin-unstarred dining. I found some wonderful restaurants just by going to the Michelin website and looking for the ones listed there, like Goli Budapest. And I have to say I was guilty of doing some scrapescrapescraping there.

Thanks again for a wonderful report. I really enjoyed reading this, especially the description of the Perfect Man and his wife/girlfriend/mistress. I shall definitely have to add Lyon to my list of places to visit.

Posted by
9588 posts

Mike, you’re such a vivid writer, twirling the imagery as if we’re sitting at the table next to you! (How would you describe me? Did I attack my dessert like a vulture? Ha!)

I really hope you’re going to share more! My husband & I loved Lyon, staying in one of our quirkiest lodging experiences in a traboule in the Vieux Lyon section - a highlight!

Posted by
3746 posts

I love it, a real adventure novel. :-)

Daniel and Denise St. Jean isn't a Michelin-starred restaurant, but it's even better because its chef, Joseph Viola, holds the title of MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), the highest prestigious professional distinction in France, It's a status that Michelin-starred chefs dream of if they haven't reached this pinnacle yet. You can identify MOFs by their distinctive blue, white, and red collars.

Joseph Viola:

https://www.instagram.com/josephviolamof/

Posted by
5251 posts

Relative to what Mardee said, Michelin recommends restaurants that they do not honor with a star because they are casual dining places. A pizza restaurant that they recommended in Birmingham, AL had the best pepperoni pizza I've ever tasted. Until then, I had no idea that they recommend places that are low key like my restaurant budget!

Posted by
41 posts

Thank you for a wonderful remembrance of my trip to Lyon in January of 2022. Your descriptions really hit the nail on the head for me. Does the breakfast room still contain photos from the owner's travels? He shared a great game of "where am I standing" with me over one breakfast.
One of my favorite photos was taken out my room window at the building across the street. Each window had a Venetian blind raised or lowered a different amount with each tilted in a different direction. The best part was that the blinds were all on the outside of windows.

Looking forward to the rest of your trip report! Thanks again.

Posted by
8738 posts

Mike, thanks, and my brief impressions of your brief impressions:

Cathedral - Lyonnaise say that from a distance, it looks like an upside-down White Elephant!

Breakfast - what, no croissants? France is the only place to get them; what are called croissants here in the USA just aren’t right.

Perfect Man - I wonder, did he get andouillette?

His dining companion - a bit of baguette would sop up that last bit of soup (scarpetta in Italian), but maybe that’s even less “perfect,” and simply not French. In a bouchon, though, I think that whatever works, works.

Are you seeing the Lumière Museum? For those who appreciate movies and/or photography (or just a nice house of well-to-do Lyonnaise from the late 19th Century), you should. The Musée des Tissus, too, for impressive fabrics and dresses.

Passed through any traboules lately?