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Boating the Canal Du Midi

I asked for advice about the seemingly overwhelming prospect of piloting our own boat on European canals and waterways years ago on this forum, but nothing substantial beyond "Did it, it was nice." It had been a dream for years, but my husband and I wanted to get a good "crew" together to properly enjoy it, and we wanted to do it France, and decided having someone who spoke passable French would be a plus. Finally we confessed this dream to a Franco-American couple we knew who took charge and actually booked the trip for us and 2 other couples (8 people total). We were a motley group of expats who'd all lived in Stuttgart at one point or another - five Americans, an Aussie, a Dane, and a Frenchman. We're all really good friends, which is important, because if you're going to spend a week together on the close confines of a ship in the surprisingly stressful situation of driving a 49 foot boat on your own, you better freakin' like each other.

On the subject of the boat...well, my husband and I are the paupers in the group. Everyone else wanted comfy quarters and at least one bathroom/shower per couple whereas we were willing to go with a more modest boat, but we got outvoted. In the long run, this was both good and bad. We ended up the most luxurious boat you can rent from any agency. The rooms were small, but spacious for a boat, and there was even a "crew quarters" (if we'd elected to hire a skipper and/or cook) which we used to store luggage and booze. In the end, all those extra bathrooms were superfluous, as we weren't supposed to use the toilets or shower while docked at a port anyway and were instead supposed to make use of the terrifying facilities our company, Le Canalous, provided at their ports. (I abandoned that idea after the first night. I was not going to climb off ship just to pee at 3am. Also a word of warning: You will know the pooping habits of your shipmates after a week on a boat with them. It's inevitable.)

The other big minus about a big, luxurious boat is that it's a big, luxurious pain in the ass. Sure, our deck furniture was great, but piloting a boat that in some places was as long as the canal itself was wide was a huge headache. I don't want to discourage anyone from taking this kind of trip - it was amazing - but piloting the boat was difficult. It's akin to driving a school bus, if the bus took 10 seconds to respond to anything you did with the wheel and had no brakes. Out of the 8 of us, only 2 became anywhere near comfortable the job. I was terrible at it and only did any serious driving on the ocean-like Etang de Thau, a giant tidal lake more like a bay. (I was comfortable because there was nothing I could run into). Obstacles such as the long tunnel, very low and tight bridges, locks, other boats, and just the parking required at certain ports were all difficult. Nevermind issues like strong winds and currents and shallow shoals in certain places. We may have hit another boat or 5, but only two at high speeds, at least. And we only ran the boat aground once, which we rectified by having half the crew push the boat in waist-deep canal water while sinking through muck that covered sharp volcanic rock. Anyone who'd driven the boat for any significant time quickly became jealous of the much smaller boats we saw navigating the waters with relative ease.

I don't want to go into too much detail, although I hope to get pictures up by tomorrow and will link to an album in a reply. We'd originally hoped to leave from Carcassone, but even the first week in September the boats were sold out by June, so we left from Homps instead for a one-week trip ending in Carnon.

Posted by
3050 posts

From the start, our trip was also fraught because our company, Le Canalous, seemed to be staffed entirely by people who just did not give a shit. We got our "orientation" 3 hours late, and it consisted of very little information about how the boat worked, let alone the complex electrical systems onboard. We did enjoy a great dinner in Homps at "Restaurant Le Peniche" which has legitimately amazing wood-oven pizzas (And I'm generally not a fan of pizza in Europe).

The second day stopped for lunch in Ventenact le Minevois mostly due to an interesting-looking flea market going on, bought some WWI medals as an Xmas gift for my MIL and had lunch and stocked up on wine (this being a well-known wine village). We then made it to Le Somail and were lied to by the tourist office worker there, claiming that there were no mooring points for 40 km, despite the book I had saying there was a port with electricity, water, and showers just 2 km away. But Le Somail was so charming that I didn't mind stopping there for the night. The famed bookstore there is well worth the hype - I've never seen anything like it. The restaurants looked great too, but we had a special dinner on the boat that night. The first day of driving disabused some members of our party that the trip would be all sunning and relaxation, as we realized we needed at least 4 people in addition to the driver to pay attention through small bridges (to "push off" if needed to avoid collision) and for help with lines at the locks.

The next day we had a disastrous departure from Le Somail due to high winds and some less than great piloting, so after colliding with two boats we parked to calm our nerves and make a plan. When we were ready to depart again, the boat wouldn't start. We'd previously had an issue with the water pump, which a mechanic came to fix the previous night. Today it appeared it was a battery wiring issue, which explains the difficulty in piloting at least partially - our bow thrusters had no power, nor did anything else. The new mechanic got us running but wanted us to dock in Columbiers, some 40km away, which was supposed to be a relatively unpleasant port. I'd wanted us to stop in a charming town before that, but now we had no choice. Feeling forced into ports I'd rather not be/not being able to thus explore places I wanted due to repeated mechanical failure was probably the worst aspect of the trip. We were told that because it was the end of the season, the boats needed refurbishing. I don't know if other companies are better about boat maintenance, but for this reason I would try my luck with Le Boat or another company before Le Canalous again - or at least, try May or June instead of September.

We got up very early for us the next day to make it to the famous set of "staircase" locks before Beziers when they opened. We didn't want to get stuck in a traffic jam as it related to the locks, and being the biggest boat on the canal, being first in the lock meant extra maneuvering room. Turns out the locks were mostly a breeze for the driver - it was those of us (i.e. me!) handling the lines on the boat who had to do a lot of the work holding the boat tight against the current as the lock emptied of water. Still, we accomplished the whole staircase in 45 minutes or so, and rewarded ourselves with a boozy pre-lunch on board once moored in Beziers, then explored the city, which reminded me a lot of a smaller Marsielles - sketchy on the surface, but with a rich history and charming ancient streets, plus great food.

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3050 posts

After Beziers, we did our first "nature mooring" just past an amazing lagoon full of Flamingos. We were finally at - or at least near - the sea. We walked 2km into a modern family beach resort town to play bouiles on the beach and had an epic night grilling food and drinking too much (and maybe loudly gossiping about our fellow canal travelers, who were Germans and thus predictably, nudists).

After a leisurely morning in which no one thought to start the boat before our scheduled depature of 1pm, we once again had mechanical failure. Honestly we were idiots for not starting up the boat when we woke up. So we called out the third mechanic, and finally got on our way in the late afternoon, with the requirement that we dock in Adge at the Les Canalous port there for more boat work. It wasn't as bad as Colombiers, which was just unpleasant - Adge is one of France's oldest cities, and in addition to walking the maze of streets at twilight and a great crepe dinner we also purchased hours-old oysters at exceedingly reasonable rates and were entertained by the ineptness of new boaters trying to navigate the round lock there (by this point we were pros, so laughing at people having problems was a form of therapy for us).

The next day after sucessfully getting through the round lock as soon as it opened we were briefly on a lovely river, then in a channel for our last lock of the entire trip . 17 locks total, so it was bittersweet - we'd gotten so good at this! Realistically at this point we could've handled only 3 people total - one driving, one to hop ashore, and one person on the boat for the lines. We saw couples with their own boat, but those were usually half the length of ours. Not sure if I'd want to the trip with just two - seems like a lot of work. Then we were on the Etang de Thau, the aforementioned huge saltwater lake separated from the sea by a small sand spit and full of oyster beds. We'd feared it before, since apparently during high winds, boats aren't allowed on it at all, but we had a fine day for what felt like REAL boating and it was good fun for me at the helm. Sadly a Les Canalous offical had convinced our Frenchman that we shouldn't stop at Sete (we'd have had to called ahead for them to raise a railroad bridge for us and supposedly docking was difficult, although I think we could've managed at that point) and we pushed on to Frontignan, which was not particularly with the stop - a village on the lake would've been preferable. We had lunch there waiting for the bridge to be raised, which only happens twice a day.

At this point we were no longer on the canal du midi, but on the canal rhone et sete, and it was not nearly as pretty. Saltwater lagoons on either side, more industrial, although we did see many more flamingos and we could see the sea at times. We docked at the abbey just outside Carnon, and spent the next day exploring the abbey and the beach before we moored in Carnon at the end of our trip. I also wouldn't recommend that, but I was outvoted. It was only an hour (less, actually) drive to Carnon from the Abbey, and while I understand nobody wanted to get up early for the final drive, having our last night in an ugly port next to a freeway was a bit of a sour note. Unfortunately when you have 8 people you have 8 opinions and I'm not a dictator! In the end it didn't matter, since Les Canalous had "forgotten" to transfer one of our party's cars to Carnon, so we didn't leave the boat until 11am anyway (drop off time was supposedly 9am)

Posted by
3050 posts

Overall it was an amazing trip, I loved the slow pace of the boat (8km max) which gives you a totally different perspective on the scenery. I found many of us were much more involved in the driving, anticipating obstacles, etc so it was less relaxing and more work than I think any of us had predicted, but I liked that part of it. It's awesome to feel useful! In theory I like the idea that you can "choose your own adventure" and stop in various places or bypass them, but in reality we bypassed many places I wanted to stop at. Then again I may just not be that good at traveling with a large group. I much prefer it when I can just call the shots of what I want to do, the trip was certainly better for socializing with each other than for hardcore sightseeing. It was kind of like camping, but with relative luxury, and while moving at the same time. RVing sort of?

The Canal Du Midi is supposedly the most touristy of all the canals, but during our week (August 30 - Sept 6) we never had problems finding mooring or with traffic jams at the locks (then again, we always started off early). I would love to do the Canal du Midi again, but "right" this time, starting further upstream, hopefully not having the same degree of technical issues so we could stop where we wanted, and having a stronger itinerary. But you can apparently do this same kind of trip all over France, so Brittany is tempting, as is the Dordgone. While stressful at first, once we got good at handling the boat, it hurt to give it up - but I feel way more confident for the next trip, which I am already planning, of course. Maybe just with 4 or 6 people - I'd like to try a smaller boat, and less people might make everything a bit easier. Not sure if I'm ready to take it on as a couple, though.

I'll post pictures tomorrow. In the meantime if you have any questions about this kind of trip, feel free to ask!

Posted by
1386 posts

No questions - just my own experience.

We have done two trips in Scotland and Ireland in the smallest boat you can think an donly my wife and I. Rented from LeBoat.

We thought it a great experience, the staff was very helpful and the instruction was quite good. He even stayed on the boat through the first lock to see if we had learned it properly.

We are definitely going on more trips like that. Next trip will probably be Italy :-)

Posted by
33819 posts

Thanks so much for posting, Sarah. It's good to hear your voice.

I've never boated in France - it sounds like the company you picked are a bunch of losers but with good mechanics - but I have many years of narrowboat experience in England.

I wonder how you would like a 72 foot long 7 ft 2 in wide boat on a canal which is maybe 25 feet wide, and you get to wind your own locks - no electric locks with lock-keepers doing all your work for you here.

I love to have the freedom to moor where we like - within reason - and wave at all the gongoozlers as go by. There's always a canal side pub within reach, and the scenery is usually top notch.

I've very rarely had to call out for help - certainly never as many as you have done. I can go for years without needing a mechanic.

You are right, it does take a bit of getting used to, and most hire bases here in the UK provide a decent introduction to working the boat and locks, and stay with most newbies through the first lock.

We've never gone with more than one other couple (and dogs), and usually have somewhere between a 52 and 60 foot boat. It is plenty enough discussion and consultation with 2 couples, even if one is the self appointed leader of the gang - I can't imagine doing it with 4 couples.

I wouldn't have liked to be told by the hire company where I had to dock / moor.

The only dealings we usually have with them is when they hand the boat over, and when we hand the boat back.

I'm glad to see that the overall experience was pleasant enough that you would do it again.

Posted by
322 posts

Sarah,

Thank you so much for your report. Some friends and I are planning a similar trip and you have given me much to think about. I would love to see your pictures; you mentioned you would share a link to them.

One question, in retrospect, do you wish you had hired a boat with a crew to allow yourself more sightseeing time and less working? I had heard that some times one could hope off in a port, rent bikes and bike to the next port to rejoin the boat, but obviously not if you are the crew.

Again, thanks for your report. It was amazingly helpful.

Kaye
Folsom, CA.