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Best of the Basque Country 2024

Please excuse any mistakes as I’m doing this on a tablet which is not the best way to do it.

Who:Bill (78) me (71)
What: RS Best of the Basque Country
When:May 14-22, 2024
Guide: Adriana Rodriques Madeira
Age: 30ish-80ish
Weather: cloudy, chilly, sprinkling

05/12 - end of My Way Spain and off to Bayonne
Fly Seville to San Sebastian( Hondarribia) via Madrid on Iberia; taxi to train station Hendaye (bike race in San Sebastián means prolonged wait for taxi- no bus either); buy tickets to Bayonne from machine at station- 30 min.ride to Bayonne; taxi to hotel - could have walked ( rt.turn out of station to river, walk across the bridge and it’s about 2-3 blocks from there) but it was drizzling.
- Mercure Hotel Centralhas an excellent staff and a large room is waiting; staff provides map & directions to restaurants and tram

05/13clear skies!
-excellent breakfast with lots of options; walk to Txik Txak tram stop; tap with card for tickets and get an all day pass; validate on board and take T1 to Biarritz; surfers and intrepid sunbathers in this former Belle Epoque town; walk the boardwalk, have gelato, and just do a wander before heading back to Bayonne; dinner at Ragazzi da Peppone Bayonne, delicious pasta dinner 2 doors from the hotel, staff encourages us to use our pitiful French, excellent fruit crumble for dessert; pouring rain on exit.

05/14tour starts at 5:00
Try to find Jewish Museum across the river, doesn’t seem to be open; make reservations (suggested) for L’Atelier du Chocolat; tech failed us (or we failed tech) and we get horribly lost- Bill’s Spanish saves us and we find the place; self-guided walk through the displays of chocolate history and view current products in process; English speaking staff does demonstration and chocolate tasting; we’ve done several chocolate museums and this is still worthwhile; buy plenty of chocolate
- group meeting at 5:00; discuss logistics, some Basque phrases and pick buddies; orientation walk and then group dinner at Le Chistera; salad, fish & potatoes; Basque tart for dessert and beverage

05/15
a.m. guided tour of cathedral, market and Basque Cultural Museum; free time; lunch is au gratin potatoes and sausage from market; more Bayonne wandering in the afternoon; dinner at Cafe du Theatre. - melon and prosciutto salad & Basque cider for me, warm goat cheese salad for Bill and “big beer for big man” for Bill. Sorry to leave Bayonne

05/16heading to Pamploma
a.m. Adriana loads us in the bus and we’re off to St Jean-Pied-de-Port, one of the starting spots for the Camino de Santiago; 4 ladies are walking a section of the Camino after the tour so they get their passports; we buy walking sticks at a local hiking shop and get them fitted; next stop Roncavalles and Camino hospital; lunch stop is duck confit, and dessert is French toast with ice cream;
p.m. arrive Sercotel Leyrewith bus drop at the hotel;orientation walk ends at Bar Gaucho where we are instructed on how to elbow our way to the bar and order our tapas and drinks; Adriana makes sure everyone is successful

05/17
a.m. orientation walk with Leo (excellent guide) through the streets following the path of the running of the bulls; tour ends at a private museum dedicated to bullfighting; visit ends with a video, pintxos and wine; more walking and then its lunch at a gentleman’s eating club, Jarauta 79 - mushroom starter, paella style dish using noodles, pork cheeks with mashed potatoes and lemon sorbet for dessert; lots of food so dinner was VERY light;

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05/18Camino day
a.m.the sun is out but it’s chilly as the bus drops us at Alto del Perdon where today’s walk starts; it’s a 1624 elevation drop over rock terrain for 2.3 miles; 5 of us stick with the bus to the first alberge stop at Uterge; 1 person sticks with the bus but the rest of the groups sets off for Iglesia de St.Maria Eunate on a relatively flat, occasionally muddy walk; the hiking sticks come in handy for stability in the slick muddy spots; guided tour explains aspects of the church;
p.m. well-deserved lunch at Lezaun; gray skies greet us in San Sebastian, but there are beautiful views from Monte Igueldo before we descend into town and our hotel, Hotel Parma; we get a room overlooking Playa la Zurriola, orientation walk with umbrellas

05/19
a.m. guided walking in the morning winds through a crowd getting ready for a running race; we’re still using umbrellas and rain gear; free time after is laundromat time - Garbimatik Lavanderia on San Lorenzo Kalea gets the job down and all the patrons work together even through we don’t all speak the same language; coins are needed, but there is a cash machine; finally the sun comes out so we do our own tapas crawl - Adriana has give us the confidence to do this on our own; good gelato too

05/20 visiting the sheep
a.m. first stop of the day is Guetaria; Guernica is next where we hear the history and see Picasso’s mural of the devastating bombing ( the original is in the Reina Sofia in Madrid); standing in the town where it took place is sobering; lunch follows at Zallo Bari, then it’s off to the Alluitz Natura sheep farm, we make yogurt, sample cheese, feed the babies and learn about this organic farm; on to Bilbao and Hotel Abando; orientation walk

05/21final tour day
a.m. group divides into two groups to allow better Guggenheim experience; Bill has trepidations about this museum but the guide knows how to make this an engaging experience and we all come away with an appreciation for the collection; we eat lunch at the museum where they have a good selection and there are tables outside where we can enjoy “Puppy” even though his flowers aren’t blooming
p.m. farewell dinner at Lar

05/22
Flight home - 9:15 flight from Bilbao to Madrid lands at 10:25; transfer terminals and depart Madrid for LHR at 13:30 (well, that’s when we were supposed to depart) transfer from terminal 5 to 3 at LHR and we are some of the last to board our British Airways flight home; luggage does not make it ; learn a new skill after we are handed paperwork in baggage claim at Las Vegas; submit claim once computer software catches up and bag makes it eventually.

Great trip!

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Patty,
Thanks for your trip report. I'm looking at several tour options for 2026 and this helps a lot.
Where are you and Bill headed this year?
Kathy

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2341 posts

Kathy, still have great memories of you on our Southern Italy tour and love reading about your travels. This year we’re doing Best of the Adriatic in May with a following week on our own in Paris. Where are you off to this year?