Barging France

Are you looking at a package tour or a DIY adventure? We've not done a tour but one of our absolute favorite vacations included a week of bare-barging on the Nivernais canal. Four of us rented a boat (none of us are "boaters") and bicycles to take with us, from LeBoat in Migennes. They gave us basic instructions and off we went for a grand time! We had no real plan, just stopped wherever we wanted to, bought fresh pastries for breakfast, biked along the footpath and into a couple of small towns plus Auxerre, enjoyed a tour and wine tasting at Les Caves Bailly Lapierre, and all of it at a leisurely pace. Going through the locks was both interesting and easy, adding to the "can't do this at home" experience. That was way back in 2007 so I don't know what changes may have occurred since then. Our second LeBoat adventure, on the Thames from Oxford to near London, was in 2019. Again, we had a good time but it was more stressful being on a busier river and with fewer mooring spots available, so for a first time experience, I'd advise choosing a canal. It was fabulous!

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But since I'm here ... are you thinking a drive-it-yourself barge? If so, we rented one for a week in September, in southwest France, years ago and it was one of our most memorable trips ever.

We rented a barge through Locaboat in Agen on the Garonne Canal, but most of the trip was on the River Baise. We loved the peaceful river ... very little boat traffic, lots of birds and gorgeous scenery. We would go for hours without seeing another boat. My husband was the driver and I was the lock-opener. Lots of locks. They were all electronic, operated by a key card I wore around my neck. So it was easy.

For a drive-it yourself, my main advice would be to bring a some food on board. We brought bread, fruit, cheese and wine, thinking we'd be stopping in little villages to eat. But at our third overnight stop (Moncrabeau) everything was closed on Monday (the day we were there). And by the time we discovered this, we didn't have time to get through the next lock to the next village. And all we had left for dinner were apples and stale bread!

Overall, it was a great adventure. This was week 3 of a 4 week trip and it was a lovely break. Highly recommend.

We've taken 7 penichette cruises with Locaboat in France and will be going again in September, this time in Alsace. Sometimes weather is not so good, but it's always an adventure (we've experience spring, early summer and fall). We always select the ensuite cabin arrangements so as not to have to share rudimentary bathrooms with anyone other than your partner. Then heed carefully the advice to treat toilets with care. Additional advice: research your route thoroughly. Then order the guidebook/waterways guide. But be aware that details are often outdated. Some areas are food deserts with few bakeries and restaurants. I nearly always cook, so visits to local markets are a treat. Purchase local specialties, cheeses, wines, fruits in season and enjoy the slow pace of the barge. You will be rewarded. As for the regions we have traveled, we enjoyed the Burgundy (Canal de Bourgogne, Canal Nivernais) and Baïse River in SW area. We like to visit local historical sites and castles. Canal de Midi is often sited as a favorite, but some of the scenic allées of trees have been cut down. Speaking some French is good, and be sure to mind your manners to be respectful of locals. Always "Bonjour" "merci" etc. And remember that the customer in France is seldom right, and you are the customer.