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Baltic Explorations Part 1

I did 3 days independently in Helsinki, took the ferry to Tallin, and joined a tour group for a 12 day tour through Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. I did a separate review of the tour experience which can be found here:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/exodus-adventure-travels-a-review

Helsinki: I took a direct flight from Seattle to Helsinki on Finn Air. The Helsinki airport is an extremely easy entry/exit point for EES and passport control. The train station is below the airport and the train to the city center runs frequently. No need to purchase a ticket in advance, simply board, pick “ABC” ticket from the blue machine near the coach entrance and pay with contactless card. My hotel was the Scandic Grand Central which is located directly next to the railway station in a renovated historic building. Location was terrific. Easy to arrive and easy to get around as many buses and trams connect at the Central Station. The intercity bus terminal is a 7 minute walk away.

My first full day I joined a tour that was an overview of city highlights and also went to Soumenlinna Island fortress. The group size was 8 and it was a very enjoyable day. It included some bus transport around various sites and then ended up being primarily a walking tour.

The next day I walked to the intercity bus terminal and took a bus to Porvoo. I had seen videos on you tube and so I had this rosy idea of what this would look like. My experience was nothing like the videos…..This day was my first introduction to what I have learned to think of as “Baltic Showers.” A beautiful sunny day, a sudden torrential downpour, return to sunny day. The torrential downpour occurred while I was exploring Porvoo. The only people out were about 30 Chinese tourists and myself. Several shops and restaurants didn’t bother opening. I conceded defeat and returned to the bus station and took a bus back to the city.

The next day was a travel day to Tallinn. I took an Uber to the port and boarded the Tallink Ferry. I left my luggage in the onboard luggage room (€2 a bag) and settled in for the two hour journey without having to worry about keeping track of it. The ship is massive with many restaurants and seating areas. The time passed quickly and the seas were smooth. Arrival in Tallinn was easy. I simply walked out of the terminal to the bus stop and took the bus (contactless pay) to the Central Train station. My hotel, Go Hotel Shnelli ($80) was located there. A great location directly next to Old Town with easy transport connections. Rooms were somewhat similar to a Premier Inn, but the restaurant was excellent and full meals were €10-15 euros. I walked across the road and began an explore of the upper Old City.

The following day I walked to the Maritime Museum which is quite well done. It is situated inside the “Fat Margaret” tower and has a very thoughtful design. Each level in the tower reflected a different era in Tallinn’s political and Maritime growth. The afternoon I toured the KGB prison cells in Old Town and then the KGB museum in the Hotel Viru. The prison cells were quite sobering and the KGB museum fell short of expectations . I would not recommend the Hotel Viru. I then met my tour group for orientation and a “get to know you” dinner.

The next day started with a 3 hour walking tour with a local guide through Old Town. I then took a nap and set off on a trek to do laundry. I took a tram to the laundromat where all directions were in Estonian, Russian, and thankfully, English. We would be starting on the bus portion of our tour the next day and it felt good to start off with everything clean.

Our itinerary the next day included a stop at Palmse Kula, a manor house in the country side, Altman Kula, a traditional fishing village, and a lunch stop at a traditional longhouse restaurant, before arriving in Tartu. I learned about a charming Estonian tradition which is the village swing.

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Continued: The village swing is ridden standing up with two groups of people facing each other. It is a social event and has a few courtship connections in midsummer festival. I couldn’t resist riding the swing and they are a lot of fun!

Tartu was primarily a place to spend the night on the way to Riga. Our hotel was the Hotel Tartu. The tour provided a 2 hour walking tour which I skipped since I was feeling a bit tired. Tartu was our closest point geographically to the main part of Russia which lies about 25 miles away.

We started off on our travels again the next day on our way to Riga, the capital of Latvia and the largest city in the 3 Baltic nations on tour. We stopped for a break and explore in Cesis before going on to Turaida Manor which is somewhat of a living history complex that features a castle and associated outbuildings. One of the pleasures of visiting the Baltics in September is the low number of fellow tourists. I can’t imagine this relaxed sort of traveling in much of the rest of Europe.

We arrived in Riga where we spent 3 nights at the Islande Hotel. The hotel itself was great. This is the only place I, as a solo traveler, have ever received a one bedroom suite while on a tour! I do feel the location could have been improved as we had to cross a fairly long bridge to access the central parts of Riga. I would probably choose to stay on the other side of the river if I return. Riga is a beautiful city filled with interesting architecture, parks, and many embassies. We started off with a three hour walking tour that encompassed the Art Nouveau section of the city and the Old Town. It was interrupted for about 20 minutes with a “Baltic Shower” so we took shelter in a coffee shop. My advice is always have rain gear with you no matter how beautiful the day looks when you first start out because it can change quickly. In the afternoon I took a peaceful canal boat tour that went through the canal and out on the river.

The following day we took a train to Jurmala, a seaside resort that was traditionally very popular with Russians, it is about a 30 minute trip from Riga and a one way ticket is €2.80. You can buy your ticket at the station or on the train. It was fun to walk around and explore. Some hardy members of the tour group even entered the water briefly. Return to Riga was done as individuals so you could spend as much, or as little time in Jurmala as desired. I had lunch at the LIDO restaurant at the Riga train station. You may have already noticed I am not a big foodie with carefully planned dining experiences. However, this Latvian chain came highly recommended by our guide for authentic home cooked food at a reasonable price. She was so right. Food is served cafeteria style and the restaurant is filled with locals. I had a full meal of Salmon, roasted potatoes, and grilled vegetables for €8 and it was delicious.

Later I caught the changing of the guard at the Freedom Monument. I couldn’t help but compare the approximately 20 of us at the ceremony with the crowds I have experienced elsewhere. One of the soldiers supporting the ceremony even came over and showed me the best place to stand to get a good video.

Next was the Riga KGB headquarters museum. Once again, very sobering. It is frightening to see how individual rights can be simply ignored and human life can be considered so cheap. I felt it was a better museum experience than Tallin.

The next day we were on the road again, we left Riga and headed toward Klaipeda in Lithuania. First we stopped at Rundale Palace. This summer palace of a Duke felt very similar to Versailles in many ways. Long corridors, many rooms, grand assembly areas, beautiful gardens. Where it differed was in the visitor experience. No crowds, no jostling, no trying to make it past people taking selfies. It was a very enjoyable and interesting experience. A local guide took us through.

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Continued part 3
We next stopped at the Hill of Crosses which is a very important site to the Lithuanian people. It holds meaning on several levels. It is a religious site, it is a memorial location, it is a symbol of perseverance against oppression. The Soviets tried to eliminate this site several times. Erecting a cross here became an arrestable offence. The army would come through and clear it. Soon, new crosses would appear.

We arrived in Klaipeda and stayed at the Old Mill Hotel for two nights. It is a beautifully redone Mill located at a very nice spot along the canal and river. We received a brief orientation to the neighborhood and then had independent time for the evening.

The next day was one I had been looking forward to, a day on the Curonian Spit. A short ferry ride and we arrived. The spit is separated into two parts. A Lithuanian half and a Russian half out of Kaliningrad. We only explored Lithuania but we did see the border from an overlook on the dunes. First we went on a 90 minute hike through the forest at Witches Hill. Here over 80 beautiful wood carvings line the trail with stories from Lithuanian folk lore. Next we went to the dunes at the southern section for a short walk and overlook before walking another 30 minutes downhill to the town of Nita. This is a former fishing village turned tourist center that has managed to maintain the look and character of a fishing village. It was a lunch stop with plenty of time to wander and explore. Next was short stop on the Baltic side of the spit. It was short because it was time for another “Baltic Shower.” Ferry ride back to the hotel then dinner at a noodle shop.

We set off the next morning for Kaunas with a stop to explore an old Soviet Nuclear Missile base near Plunge. We had a walking tour when we arrived in Kaunas and then free time. Our hotel was Best Western Santakos Hotel which was quite nice and well located.

The next day was our last travel day as we headed to Vilnius. Our major stop along the way was Trakai Castle which is fairly famous as a Lithuanian landmark. It is situated on an island and is a restored castle. It is extremely picturesque. We had a guided tour, free time to explore, and then met for a late lunch at a local restaurant serving the traditional food of a minority group in the area. Very, very similar to Cornish pastries.

We arrived at the Comfort Hotel LT Rock and Roll Vilnius. Nice hotel, quirky theme, but I felt it was located a little further from Old Town (15 min walk) than I would have preferred. I noticed an Intrepid tour group was staying here as well. I would change location closer to Old Town on a return visit. We did a 3 hour walking tour the following morning which was the last full day of our tour. The afternoon was free and then we met for a farewell dinner.

I am staying an additional night beyond the end of the tour. So while others are off to the airport, I am writing this report before I head out to explore the castle area and take my final KGB tour. I’m really not sure why I signed up for so many!
This hotel has self-service laundry so that is on the agenda as well.

Tomorrow I fly to Warsaw where I will join a Gate 1 tour of Poland the following day. I will report on that separately.

The Baltics were a great place to visit. Full of interesting people, places, and history. Blissfully free of overtourism. I’m already thinking about coming back.

Posted by
7548 posts

Nice trip report Carol, thanks for sharing. Brought back many memories for me - I discovered the Baltics in 2018 and went to many of the same places you mentioned. We did not make it to the Curonian Spit however - a disappointment for me. But you really nailed the outstanding combination of things here: sights and experiences that rival any other across more well-known European destinations, but....a complete lack of overtourism, crowds, and all the negative knock-on effects (including high prices). Sounds like you had a lovely trip.

One quick question...

The Helsinki airport is an extremely easy entry/exit point for EES and passport control.

Can you elaborate a bit on that? How long did it take you?

As luck would have it, we are off to Greece on Monday. And we're flying Seattle To Helsinki on the same Finnair flight as yours. But we will just be connecting in HEL - on separate tickets - then flying onward to Greece. As our flights are scheduled, we have around 2 hours 20 minutes to self-connect, and I think that'll be enough (though a little tight for my liking). My hope is that that the airport there will operate with typical Scandinavian efficiency and no drama. My only worries are around the potential for long lines for EES and other procedures that eat up our connection time. Anything you can tell me to allay my concerns and get me pointed in the right direction, and moving through that airport efficiently?

Thanks!

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2150 posts

Thanks Carol, that was a great TR, lots of details for those of us planning a trip to the area! Many people have mentioned those Lido restaurants, cafeteria style with cheaper, good quality food sounds ideal!

This day was my first introduction to what I have learned to think of
as “Baltic Showers.” A beautiful sunny day, a sudden torrential
downpour, return to sunny day.

People look at me oddly because I'm (almost) always carrying my Gore Tex raincoat autumn & spring time when we bike in Uppsala, rain showers come so quickly in the north!

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11624 posts

Anything you can tell me to allay my concerns

Doesn't the fact that she literally said

The Helsinki airport is an extremely easy entry/exit point for EES and passport control

allay your concerns ??

Carol this sounds like a fantastic trip. Thank you for the trip report. I hope you have a wonderful time in Poland, too.

Posted by
928 posts

Thank you, Carol, for posting such an informative trip report. I was in Helsinki and the Baltic region this summer and loved it! Like you, I really appreciated the lack of over tourism and crowds. Now I want to go back again!

Posted by
13182 posts

Carol, what a lovely trip report! Thanks so much for posting this—Tallinn and Helsinki are both on my "places-to-visit" list, and this was very helpful. I loved reading all the details! I missed your other trip report so will go and check it out now.

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6443 posts

This sounds like you had a lovely time. I loved Rundale Palace (and also Cesis). I admit I am a little surprised that the tour skipped the Estonian National Museum in Tartu - but you can’t see everything. So it sounds like it didn’t include any time in Tallinn - just met and left from there. Of course, you covered that well by arriving early! I missed the Maritime Museum (and a few other places) - oh well, I guess I will just have to go back! And Riga is on my current list of favorite cities.

Thanks for the report!

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4004 posts

Thank you so much for reporting on a lesser visited and even less reported on place. We hope to get there soon!

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6860 posts

Thanks for the great trip report. You made me head to youtube to watch videos of Estonian swings!

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2700 posts

Carol, nice report. I'm looking forward to your next installment from Poland. Thanks.

Posted by
5118 posts

Thanks for the TR Carol. I love reading about places we visited, and new places we want to visit. Your report hit on both. I’ll be reading your Poland report when you post it.

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4905 posts

Nice trip report, Carol! You packed a lot into your time in the Baltics. I have to admit that I very much enjoyed the Hotel Viru tour. I thought it was fun. On the advice of the guide, who saw me trying to take a rather awkward and obstructed photo of the city from the top floor, I went down one floor and visited the smoking balcony there, which had unobstructed views over the city (and no smokers!).

Riga is a favorite city for me. All the judendstill (art nouveau) architecture is very, very cool.

I haven't made it to Lithuania yet, but I am eager to do so. Hopefully in the near future.

I'm hoping you will write a trip report for your Poland tour!

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19548 posts

I'm sitting here planning my third visit to the Baltics next month.

Thanks for the trip report.

Posted by
874 posts

I was traveling when this TR came out so just now having a chance to read it.
Thank you for the details which will help me plan my future trip to the Baltic region. I'm bookmarking it to reference later.